HE-NIAGARA- BOOK 


MARK-  TWAIN 
W-D-HOV/ELLS 
E-S- MARTIN 
N-S-SHALER 


The  Niagara  Book 


BY 

W.  D.  HOWELLS,  MARK  TWAIN, 
PROF.  NATHANIEL  S.  SHALER,  AND  OTHERS 

NEW  AND  REVISED  EDITION 
With  Remarkable  Photographic  Illustrations 


New  York 

Doubleday,  Page  &  Co. 
1901 


COPYRIGHT,  1893 
BY  UNDERHILL  &  NICHOLS 

COPYRIGHT,   IQOI 
BY  IRVING  S.   UNDERHILL 

ALL    RIGHTS    RESERVED 


Many  of  the  illustrations  in  this  book  are 
from  photographs  taken  by  amateurs.  For 
the  use  of  the  others  ive  are  indebted  to  the 
courtesy  of  Messrs.  Nielson,  Arnold,  Curtis^ 
Koonz  and  Zyback  <S°  Co.  In  every  case  the 
name  of  the  photographer  is  given. 


M183714 


CONTENTS. 

PART  I. 

Page 
WHAT  TO  SEE.     Frederic  Almy,  A.M 3 

DRAMATIC  INCIDENTS.  Orrin  E.  Dunlap 59 

HISTORIC  NIAGARA.  Hon.  Peter  A.  Porter  ....  90 

THE  GEOLOGY  OF  NIAGARA  FALLS.  Prof.  N.  S.  Shaler.  123 
THE  FLORA  AND  FAUNA  OF  NIAGARA  FALLS.  Hon. 

David  F.  Day 158 

UTILIZATION  OF  NIAGARA'S  POWER.  Coleman  Sellers, 

E.D.,  Sc.D.,  etc 178 

PART  II. 

THE  FIRST  AUTHENTIC  MENTION  OF  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

Mark  Twain    ......     .     .     ,.     .     .     .215 

NIAGARA,  FIRST  AND  LAST.  William  D.  Howells  .  .  236 

As  IT  RUSHES  BY.  Edward  S.  Martin 270 

FAMOUS  VISITORS  AT  NIAGARA  FALLS.  Rev.  Thomas 

R.  Slicer 278 

PART  III. 

BUFFALO  AND  THE  PAN  AMERICAN  EXPOSITION.     .     .315 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

A  NOVEL  VIEW  OF  THE  HORSESHOE      .     .     ..     Frontispiece 

Facing  Page 

ENTRANCE   TO   THE   CAVE   OF   THE   WINDS IO 

THE    HORSESHOE   FROM    THE    MAID   OF   THE   MIST       .       .  22 

THE   THREE   SISTER   ISLANDS 34 

QUEENSTON   AND    LEWISTON. — END   OF   THE   GORGE         .  42 

PROSPECT   POINT 50 

SEARCHLIGHT   IN   THE   GORGE 59 

SPELTERINA 7O 

BLONDIN 70 

SEARCHLIGHT  IN  THE  GORGE 84 

THE  AMERICAN  FALL  FROM  GOAT  ISLAND  ....  90 

DEVIL'S  HOLE 104 

A  PANORAMA  OF  NIAGARA IIO 

THE  MAID  OF  THE  MIST IIQ 

BIRD'S-EYE  VIEW  OF  NIAGARA  RIVER 122 

MAP  OF  LAKE  IROQUOIS I2Q 

THE  ICE  PALACE 132 

HYPOTHETIC  HYDROGRAPHY  AT  A  DATE  BEFORE  THE 

MELTING  OF  THE  GREAT  GLACIER  FROM  THE  ST. 

LAWRENCE  VALLEY 134 

HYPOTHETIC  HYDROGRAPHY  AT  A  DATE  AFTER  THE 

MELTING  OF  THE  GREAT  GLACIER  FROM  THE  ST. 

LAWRENCE  VALLEY 137 

BIRD'S-EYE  VIEW  OF  THE  NIAGARA  GORGE  ....  144 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Facing  Page 

THE  SOLDIERS'  MONUMENT 150 

SECTION  OF  NIAGARA  FALLS,  SHOWING  THE  ARRANGE- 
MENT OF  HARD  AND  SOFT  STRATA,  AND  ILLUS- 
TRATING A  THEORY  OF  THE  PROCESS  OF  EROSION  152 

SPRINGTIME  AT  NIAGARA    . 158 

AMERICAN  RAPIDS  ABOVE  GOAT  ISLAND  BRIDGE      .     .  l68 

THE  GORGE  ROAD 178 

THE  GORGE  NEAR  LEWISTON 178 

POWER  HOUSE — EXTERIOR 1 88 

POWER  HOUSE — INTERIOR l88 

A  BIRD'S-EYE  VIEW  FROM  THE  TOWER 196 

THE  AMERICAN  FALL  FROM  BELOW 2O6 

ROCK  OF  AGES  AND  CAVE  OF  THE  WINDS      ....  2l6 

THE  HORSESHOE  FALL  AT  SUNSET 226 

THE  WHIRLPOOL  RAPIDS 236 

LUNA  ISLAND  IN  WINTER 244 

THE  "MAID  OF  THE  MIST" 254 

THE  BREAKING  OF  THE  ICE  BRIDGE 267 

THE  ICE  BRIDGE    .    . 267 

THE  CAVE  OF  THE  WINDS  IN  WINTER 274 

MOONLIGHT 284 

THE  WHIRLPOOL 2Q4 

THE  ICE  MOUNTAIN 304 

PLAN  OF  THE  CITY  OF  BUFFALO 316 

NIAGARA  FALLS  AND  VICINITY 331 

PLAN  OF  THE  PAN-AMERICAN  EXPOSITION      ....  340 

THE  STADIUM 342 


viii 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

PART  I. 

WHAT  TO  SEE.  FREDERIC  ALMY,  A.M. 

DRAMATIC  INCIDENTS.  ORRIN  E.  DUNLAP. 

HISTORIC  NIAGARA.  Hon.  PETER  A.  PORTER. 

THE  GEOLOGY  OF  NIAGARA  FALLS.    Prof.  N.  S.  SHALER. 
THE  FLORA  AND  FAUNA  OF  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

Hon.  DAVID  F.  DAY. 
UTILIZATION  OF  NIAGARA'S  POWER, 

COLEMAN  SELLERS,  E.D.,  Sc.D.,  etc. 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

PART  I. 
WHAT   TO    SEE. 

BY  FREDERIC  ALMY,  A.M. 
A  CONSECUTIVE  DESCRIPTION  FOR  VISITORS. 

I.  The  Cave  of  the  Winds. 
II.  The  Maid  of  the  Mist. 

III.  Queen  Victoria  Park  ;  the   Horseshoe  Fall  ;  the 

Dufferin  Islands. 

IV.  The    American  Rapids  ;  Prospect  Park  ;    Goat 

Island  ;  Luna  Island  ;  the  Three  Sisters. 

V.  Lower  Niagara :    The    Whirlpool  Rapids ;    the 

Whirlpool ;  the  Gorge  Road  to  Lewiston  and 
Queenston  ;  Brock's  Monument ;  Niagara  on 
the  Lake,  and  Youngstown. 

VI.  Seasons  and  Moods  :    The  Ice  Bridge  ;  Tramps, 

Strolls,  and  Resting  Places  ;  the  Bicycler. 
VII.  Programmes  for  One  Day  at  Niagara. 
VIII.  Statistics. 

3 


THE   NIAGARA   BOOK. 


I. 


THE    CAVE    OF   THE   WINDS. 

THE  most  greedy  imagination  need  not 
remain  long  hungry  at  Niagara.  One  well- 
used  day,  with  a  sun  bright  enough  to  start 
the  rainbows,  can  satisfy  every  expectation; 
and  yet,  many  who  see  the  Falls  for  the  first 
time  are  disappointed.  There  are  various  rea- 
sons for  so  general  an  experience,  but  no  one 
of  them  implies  any  short-coming  in  the  place. 
A  rather  stolid  mind  takes  in  such  a  sight 
slowly,  and  one  look  does  not  quicken  it, 
while  a  more  sensitive  temperament  is  apt  to 
come  to  Niagara  with  such  composite  antici- 
pations that  no  single  aspect  of  the  place  could 
satisfy  them  all. 

If  you  are  easily  moved  it  may  be  that  a 
tremor  of  excitement  will  take  possession  of 
your  senses  as  you  approach  Niagara  for  the 
first  time,  and  so  subdue  your  judgment  that 
you  will  have  no  power  to  criticise ;  but,  on  the 
other  hand,  no  matter  how  callous  you  may  be, 
no  matter  how  utter  a  Philistine,  it  is  possible 

4 


WHAT  TO   SEE. 

for  you  to  be  so  introduced  that  you  will  be 
made  an  instantaneous  convert  to  the  majesty 
of  the  place  if  not  to  its  beauty.  If  you  are 
willing  to  take  the  climax  of  Niagara  at  the 
outset  and  so  forestall  every  possibility  of  dis- 
appointment, you  will  do  well,  without  the 
least  preliminary  glance  of  any  kind,  to  enter 
the  watery  chaos  of  the  Cave  of  the  Winds. 

Cross  the  stone  bridge  that  leads  to  Goat 
Island,  with  the  rapids  of  the  American  Fall 
slipping  furiously  under  you  as  they  fall  from 
the  sky  line  at  the  left ;  with  the  brink  itself  a 
few  rods  below  you  on  the  right,  so  that  you 
see  the  plunge,  but  not  the  fall;  with  the 
roar  of  the  torrent  in  your  ears  and  the 
musty  smell  of  the  roily  water  in  your  nos- 
trils; and  finally,  before  you  in  the  distance, 
rising  over  the  tree  tops  of  Goat  Island,  the 
pillar  of  cloud  by  day  that  guards  the  Horse- 
shoe. If  it  is  very  early  morning  in  midsum- 
mer, and  the  wind  is  favorable,  a  rainbow, 
zenith  high,  will  overarch  the  scene,  but  this  is 
hardly  needed  to  quicken  the  pulses  of  your 
heart  as  you  advance  to  meet  the  wonder  of 
your  thoughts  from  early  childhood.  Take 
now  the  middle  path  across  the  idyllic  beauty 

5 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

of  the  island.  You  find  it  a  cool  bower,  sweet 
with  every  wood  fragrance,  carpeted  in  the 
spring  with  masses  of  blue  violets  and  white 
trillium,  and  overspread  by  branches  of  huge 
trees  whose  leaves  sift  out  the  sunlight  until 
it  falls  in  patches  only  on  the  road  below.  It 
is  a  place  in  which  to  "  loaf  and  invite  the 
soul,"  as  Whitman  says,  but  now  is  not  the 
time.  Five  minutes  brings  you  to  the  dressing 
house  that  marks  the  entrance  to  the  Cave  of 
the  Winds.  Here  it  will  take  a  strong  will  not 
to  look  down  over  the  hand  rail  on  the  bank ; 
but  the  epicure  in  sensations  will  refrain.  In- 
deed, to  look  now  is  to  spoil  everything,  and 
to  accept  for  your  first  view  of  Niagara  one  of 
the  least  imposing.  Instead,  step  quickly  into 
the  house,  pay  your  dollar  for  the  necessary 
escort  of  a  guide,  strip  to  the  skin  with  no 
thought  of  retaining  even  your  underclothes, 
and  put  on  the  homely  and  uncomfortable  but 
eminently  practical  suit  that  is  offered  you.  A 
blouse  and  trousers  of  a  light  gray  flannel,  a 
hooded  coat  and  overalls  of  yellow  oilskin,  and 
slippers  made  out  of  a  sheet  of  thick  white  felt 
folded  around  the  foot  and  firmly  tied  in  place 
with  strips  of  whip-cord — arrayed  in  these  you 
6 


WHAT  TO   SEE. 

are  in  full  court  costume,  ready  to  be  presented 
to  Majesty. 

To  reach  the  cave  you  circle  down  the  cliff 
by  an  uncomfortable,  small,  winding  staircase, 
of  a  sort  familiar  to  sight-seers  abroad.  From 
this  you  presently  emerge,  out  of  breath,  upon 
a  ledge  of  rock,  with  the  dark  green  waters  of 
the  river  below  and  a  vertical  wall  of  granite 
towering  above. 

A  mere  score  of  steps  brings  you  around 
a  curve  and  puts  before  your  sight  the  enor- 
mous sheet  of  water,  vast  in  itself,  but  at  Ni- 
agara insignificant  and  inconspicuous,  which 
curtains  the  Cave  of  the  Winds.  About 
one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  height,  and  as 
much  in  breadth,  it  descends  between  Goat 
Island  and  Luna  Island.  It  has  no  special 
name,  and  the  ordinary  visitor  to  Niagara  will 
hardly  realize  its  separate  existence.  Our 
English  cousins  who  do  not  go  behind  it  may 
respect  it  more  if  they  are  told  that  it  leaves 
the  sky  at  the  height  of  the  top  of  the  western 
towers  of  Canterbury  or  of  Durham  Cathe- 
dral, and  that  it  has  twice  the  width  of  the 
main  faqade  of  either.  If  they  have  ever  been 
behind  they  will  need  no  details  to  ensure  re- 
7 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

spect.  We  see  it  first  in  profile,  a  long,  curv- 
ing edge  of  green  and  white,  not  so  much  fall- 
ing from  the  brink  above  as  leaping,  with  a 
forward  plunge,  so  that  between  its  inner  wall 
and  the  retreating  surface  of  the  cliff  is  left  a 
strange  gray  cavern,  now  to  be  explored. 

I  have  been  through  the  cave  more  than  a 
score  of  times,  but  no  number  of  trips  can 
ever  dull  or  in  any  degree  displace  in  my  mind 
the  impressions  of  the  first  visit.  In  quiet  ig- 
norance of  what  was  to  come,  I  approached 
the  precipitous  wooden  staircase  which  de- 
scends behind  the  fall.  Looking  across  I  saw 
a  patch  of  blue  sky  at  the  farther  outlet  of  the 
cave,  but  elsewhere  the  air  was  dark  with 
criss-crossed  blasts  of  sleet,  hurtling  in  all  di- 
rections like  frightened  comets.  A  second 
later  the  battery  of  the  fall  was  on  my  head 
and  all  the  Powers  of  the  Air  were  at  my 
throat.  Around  my  feet  a  rainbow  formed  a 
ring  through  which  I  seemed  to  drop  into 
blackness.  The  staircase  stopped  and  I  was 
on  a  narrow  ledge  of  rock,  with  no  more  path 
or  rail,  hugging  a  slippery  wall  of  stone.  The 
water  clutched  my  feet  furiously.  Neither  the 
burly  guide  nor  the  stranger  who  had  accom- 
8 


WHAT   TO   SEE. 

panied  me  was  to  be  seen.  I  started  to  go 
forward,  but  as  I  turned  a  mass  of  water 
struck  me  breathless.  I  tried  to  find  the  stairs, 
but  a  worse  dash  of  water  from  the  other  side 
outdid  the  first.  Facing  the  wall  again  I 
waited,  perhaps  thirty  seconds,  wondering, 
when  suddenly  the  guide  appeared  with  the 
frightened  Frenchman  whom  he  had  pursued 
and  recaptured.  It  was  a  lonesome  introduc- 
tion to  the  place,  but  we  moved  on  now  to- 
gether through  the  water,  clinging  desperately 
with  our  toes  through  the  felt  to  whatever 
foothold  we  could  discover,  and  glad  to  have 
the  support  of  hands  as  well  as  feet.  Dignity 
in  such  a  place,  and  such  a  costume,  is  the  last 
thing  to  be  considered.  Half  blinded,  quite 
deafened,  gasping — the  agitation  of  the  nerves 
is  too  great  at  first  for  observation ;  but  soon 
the  eye  learns  how  to  follow  the  curving  inner 
surface  of  the  falling  water,  half  translucent 
and  of  shifting  colors,  far  up  to  where  it  leaves 
the  line  of  the  cliff  above.  It  learns  to  over- 
come the  twilight  and  gather  outlines  of  black, 
terraced  rocks,  dripping  with  streams  of  sleet, 
that  form  the  amphitheatre  of  the  cave.  You 
learn  to  step  fearlessly  into  the  churning 
9 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

water,  towards  the  Fall,  knowing  that  the  re- 
bound of  the  cataract  is  so  violent  that  even  if 
you  lost  your  footing  you  would  only  be 
thrust  roughly  back  against  the  terraces.  It 
is  soon  over.  A  brief  climb  up  the  ledges 
brings  you  to  dry  rock  and  the  bright  sun 
again,  but  you  have  seen  a  cave  of  y£olus  such 
as  Virgil  never  dreamed  of.  Henceforth  the 
lines  in  the  opening  pages  of  the  JEneid : 

Hie  vasto  rex  ^Eolus  antro 
Luctantes  ventos  vinclis  et  carcere  frenat, 

will  have  new  meaning. 

A  clever  writer  once  said  that  the  cave  was 
like  a  small  choky  corridor  with  the  deluge 
going  on  inside  it,  and  he  marvelled  greatly 
that  the  end  of  his  trip  coincided  with  the 
point  of  departure  instead  of  occurring  in 
transitu.  It  is  alarming  but  not  dangerous, 
and  accidents  are  almost  unheard  of.  Women 
frequently  go  through  the  cave  as  well  as  men. 

There  is  no  surer  way  to  take  the  conceit 
out  of  a  complacent  cockney  who  affects  to 
look  down  on  Niagara  than  to  make  him  run 
this  gauntlet.  I  think  always  of  Emerson's 
lines  on  Monadnoc : 


Photograph  by  Edmund  R.  Hardy. 
ENTRANCE   TO    THE   CAVE   OF   THE    WINDS. 


WHAT   TO   SEE. 

Pants  up  hither  the  spruce  clerk 
From  South  Cove  and  City  Wharf, 
I  take  him  up  my  rugged  sides, 
Half  repentant,  scant  of  breath, — 

I  scowl  on  him  with  my  cloud, 
With  my  north  wind  chill  his  blood  ; 
I  lame  him  clattering  down  the  rocks ; 
And  to  live  he  is  in  fear. 
Then,  at  last,  I  let  him  down 
Once  more  into  his  dapper  town, 
To  chatter,  frightened,  to  his  clan 
And  forget  me  if  he  can. 

The  passage  through  the  cave  is  an  experi- 
ence too  grim  and  colorless  for  pure  pleasure, 
but  the  return  across  the  rocks  in  front  of  the 
fall — in  a  bright  sun — is  a  luxury  of  delight. 
The  heart  that  "  leaps  up  when  it  beholds  a 
rainbow  in  the  sky  "  will  here  be  in  a  dancing 
fever  of  excitement,  for  there  are  whole  rain- 
bows, half  rainbows,  and  quarter  rainbows, 
not  in  the  sky,  distant  and  inaccessible,  but  in 
your  fingers,  around  your  head,  and  between 
your  feet,  while  the  pot  of  gold  at  the  rain- 
bow's foot  is  a  caldron  of  molten  silver,  foam- 
ing and  rushing  about  your  knees,  and  tug- 
ging at  you  with  an  invitation  that  is  irresis- 
ii 


THE   NIAGARA   BOOK. 

tible.  I  have  seen  grave  men  frolic  in  the 
water,  their  trousers  and  sleeves  swelled  al- 
most to  bursting  with  the  imprisoned  air;  now 
clinching  their  toes  firmly  in  some  crevice 
and  leaning  back  with  all  their  force  against 
the  cushion  of  water  that  rocked  them  like  a 
cradle;  now  crouching  low  with  arms  akimbo 
while  the  interrupted  stream  sprang  high 
above  their  heads  in  an  arching  curve,  like  a 
sea  shell  around  a  naiad;  now  thrusting  them- 
selves into  invisibility  against  some  rock  over 
which  the  torrent  broke  in  a  noisy  cascade — 
their  heads  safe  in  the  airhole  near  the  crest, 
from  which  they  dimly  watched  the  passing 
figures  in  their  oilskins,  until  they  chose  to 
startle  them  by  reappearing.  To  play  so  with 
Niagara  brings  an  exhilaration  that  is  inde- 
scribable. It  "  washes  brain  and  heart  clean  " 
and  gives  a  child's  courage  for  the  tasks  of  the 
world.  The  exaltation  is  heightened  by  the 
heavy  roar  of  the  cataract  close  above  you,  and 
the  brilliant  beauty  of  color  all  around  you. 
You  climb  through  one  circular  rainbow  to 
the  top  of  a  black  boulder  and  descend 
through  another  on  the  other  side;  you  cross 
slippery  wooden  bridges,  exposed  to  such  furi- 

12 


WHAT   TO   SEE. 

ous  castigation  from  the  sleet  that  you  bend 
involuntarily  in  homage  to  the  fearful  power  of 
your  recent  playfellow.  Most  glorious  of  all, 
whenever  for  a  moment  the  eye  is  not  so  buf- 
feted by  driving  spray  as  to  deprive  you  en- 
tirely of  your  vision,  look  upwards,  always  up- 
wards— where  the  flashing  peaks  of  the  Amer- 
ican Fall  tower  above  the  deluge  like  the 
snowy  summits  of  a  mountain  chain. 

In  such  access  of  mind,  in  such  high  hour 
Of  visitation  from  the  living  God, 
Thought  is  not,  in  enjoyment  it  expires, — 
Rapt  into  still  communion  that  transcends 
The  imperfect  offices  of  prayer  and  praise. 


II. 
THE  MAID   OF  THE   MIST. 

Everywhere  at  Niagara  the  genius  of  the 
place  has  many  moods.  Often  at  the  Cave  of 
the  Winds  there  is  not  a  rainbow;  sometimes 
when  the  spray  beats  down  the  river  you  can 
even  enter  the  cave  without  a  wetting.  It 
may  take  twenty  trips  to  see  all  its  splendor, 
but  fully  to  see  it  is  worth  them  all.  I  know  of 
13 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

nothing  in  Nature  to  be  compared  with  it. 
The  valley  of  the  Rhone  Glacier  at  dusk,  when 
the  white  frozen  mass  of  ice  falls  silently  at 
your  feet  from  the  sky,  suggests  it  dimly,  as 
the  moon  in  daylight  suggests  the  sun.  For 
many,  though,  the  pleasures  of  the  cave  are 
too  robust.  All  such  should  still  attempt  to 
see  Niagara  first  from  below,  and  the  next  best 
way  is  from  one  of  the  twin  steamers  called  the 
Maid  of  the  Mist. 

The  approach  is  through  Prospect  Park, 
and  by  taking  the  central  path  to  the  inclined 
railway  you  can  again  reach  the  water's  edge 
without  so  much  as  one  glimpse  of  the  Fall. 
As  you  come  out  of  the  house  at  the  foot  of 
the  railway  there  is  a  territory  at  the  left,  full 
of  attractions,  but  your  way  lies  to  the  right. 
From  the  steamer  landing  you  see  a  broad 
river  of  a  dark  green  color,  as  placid  and  un- 
ruffled as  if  it  had  never  known  a  struggle  or 
a  fall.  Men  swim  in  it  with  safety.  Before 
you  is  the  disappointing  profile  of  the  up- 
per half  of  the  American  Fall.  The  lower 
half  is  hid  by  rocks  and  spray.  Slip  on  one 
of  the  rubber  cloaks  in  the  saloon,  take  a 
rubber  blanket,  and  rush  forward  to  the 
14 


WHAT   TO   SEE. 

choice  seats  at  the  front.  As  the  steamer 
moves  sturdily  forward,  still  through  smooth 
green  water,  the  air  begins  to  fill  with  a  soft 
spray,  as  fine  and  penetrating  as  a  Scotch  mist, 
and  the  water  is  thickly  overlaid  with  foam. 
You  coast  along  the  one  thousand  and  sixty 
feet  of  the  American  Fall,  close  to  the  rocks 
below  and  so  very  close  to  the  Fall  itself  that 
it  is  almost  terrifying.  Nothing  is  distinctly 
seen,  for  the  eyes  blink  in  the  beating  rain. 
You  can  see  better  if  you  wear  glasses;  the 
wet  dims  them,  but  you  can  at  least  keep 
your  eyes  open  more  steadily.  Nothing  is 
distinctly  heard.  The  deep  note  of  Niagara 
sounds  in  your  ears  with  a  heavy  throb  that  is 
almost  painful.  You  are  confronted  by  a  rip- 
pling, flashing,  shimmering  wall  of  white,  a 
precipice  of  falling  foam,  furrowed  in  deep 
creases  by  the  uneven  contour  of  the  brink, 
and  rebounding  high  in  a  leaping  cloud  of 
spray  that  always  hides  the  base  from  every 
eye.  Near  the  steamer  are  many  boulders ;  the 
largest  the  Rock  of  Ages  that  stands  before 
the  entrance  to  the  Cave  of  the  Winds.  Then 
come  the  bare  cliffs  of  Goat  Island,  another 
thousand  feet  or  more ;  and  then — the  Horse- 
is 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

shoe.  Its  lofty,  curving  walls  confront  each 
other,  one  hundred  and  sixty  feet  in  height, 
and  in  their  contour  fully  three  thousand  feet, 
or  more  than  half  a  mile.  The  plucky  Maid 
pushes  straight  into  this  pit  of  falling  waters; 
forward  she  goes,  into  its  depths,  until  for  an 
instant,  for  one  short  second,  there  is  nothing 
to  the  right,  to  the  left,  or  before,  nothing  any- 
where in  the  whole  world  for  you  but  the  en- 
closing cataracts  falling  on  all  sides  from  the 
sky.  It  is  just  one  second  of  crowded,  glori- 
ous life,  worth  a  year's  pilgrimage.  The  little 
steamer  has  gone  as  far  as  the  full  force  of  her 
engines  will  carry  her;  she  lurches  heavily, 
tosses  like  a  cork  on  the  white  surging  foam, 
and  wheels  suddenly  around.  Then,  gradu- 
ally, you  realize  that  the  climax  is  to  be  re- 
peated. Once  more  the  Maid  pushes  stead- 
ily through  the  churning  froth,  straight  for 
the  vortex  of  the  Horseshoe;  once  more  the 
white  cataracts  surround  you,  and  then  the 
Maid  gives  up  the  hopeless  struggle,  wheels 
heavily  again,  and  shoots  like  an  arrow  down 
the  stream  and  away. 

The  views  now  are  from  the  stern;  first  of 
the  rapidly  receding  Horseshoe,  then  of  Goat 

16 


WHAT   TO   SEE. 

Island,  then  of  the  American  Fall  as  we  coast 
again  along  its  length,  nearly  as  close  as  be- 
fore, and  finally,  from  the  Canadian  dock,  a 
beautiful  panorama  of  both  Falls.  From  here 
the  boat  returns  to  the  American  landing,  but 
the  tourist's  best  plan  is  to  go  ashore,  take  the 
inclined  railway  up  the  Canadian  bank,  or 
climb  the  winding  road,  and  then  walk  or  ride 
along  the  crest  of  the  cliff  to  Inspiration  Point 
and  to  the  former  site  of  Table  Rock. 


III. 

CANADA THE    HORSESHOE THE    DUFFERINS. 

It  is  disappointing  to  the  patriotic  soul,  but 
not  to  be  disputed,  that  the  finest  views  of 
Niagara  are  to  be  had  on  the  Canadian  side. 
Perhaps  there  is  more  variety  of  beauty  in  the 
American  park  than  in  the  other;  Goat  Isl- 
and, the  Three  Sisters,  Prospect  Park,  the 
Rapids,  and  the  River  Road  are  all  exceed- 
ingly beautiful ;  but  when  you  have  seen  it  all 
there  is  no  place  to  which  you  come  back  so 
eagerly  for  inspiration  as  to  Table  Rock  on 
the  Canadian  shore. 

2  17 


THE   NIAGARA   BOOK. 

Queen  Victoria  Park. 

The  Queen  Victoria  Park  was  established  in 
1888,  or  three  years  after  the  State  of  New 
York  had  purchased  Goat  Island  and  the  land 
on  the  American  side,  and  dedicated  it  to  its 
people.  Here  and  there  are  trifling  indica- 
tions of  the  different  temper  of  the  govern- 
ments on  either  bank.  Take  for  instance  the 
governmental  signboards  with  their  warning 
notices,  which  in  Canada  are  less  considerate 
of  the  tender  feelings  of  the  dear  public  than 
with  us.  Mark  the  autocratic  barbarity  of  the 
British  declaration  that  persons  throwing 
stones  over  the  bank  will  be  prosecuted  ac- 
cording to  law,  as  compared  with  the  exquisite 
delicacy  of  the  placards  that  meet  you  at  every 
turn  on  Goat  Island :  "  Do  Not  Venture  in 
Dangerous  Places "  ;  "  Do  Not  Harm  the 
Trees  and  Shrubs  "  ;  "  Stones  Thrown  Over 
the  Bank  May  Fall  upon  People  Below." 

The  Queen  Victoria  Park  is  much  more 
trig  than  its  neighbor.  It  has  flower  beds  and 
close  clipped  lawns,  rustic  arbors,  and  wig- 
wams, busts  of  notables,  and  even  fountains ! 
In  the  State  Reservation,  on  the  contrary,  the 

18 


WHAT   TO   SEE. 

more  important  portions  are  in  a  condition  al- 
most primeval. 

It  is  well  to  remind  the  visitor  that  in  dis- 
tributing his  time  the  hours  given  to  the  Cana- 
dian park  should  be  in  the  afternoon.  At 
Niagara,  Canada  is  the  land  of  the  setting  sun, 
and  it  is  only  in  the  afternoon  that  the  superb 
bows  can  be  seen  which  rise  high  in  the  sky, 
sometimes  over-arching  both  Falls  in  a  single 
curve.  It  is  the  other  shore  which  is  distinctly 
Rainbow  Land.  Give  only  the  sun,  and  on  the 
American  shore  the  wise  pilgrim  can  have  his 
rainbow,  be  it  morning  or  be  it  afternoon.  In 
the  morning  at  Prospect  Park,  if  the  day  is 
bright,  one  rainbow  is  certain,  two  are  usual, 
and  to  see  three  concentric  bows,  each  revers- 
ing the  colors  of  its  neighbor,  is  not  uncom- 
mon. At  the  brink  of  the  Horseshoe  it  is 
the  same,  while  in  the  afternoon  I  know  of  no 
more  beautiful  sight  at  Niagara  than  the  view 
of  Luna  Island  and  the  great  American  Fall, 
framed  by  an  iridescent  bow.  It  is  a  spectacle 
not  to  be  missed. 

Suppose,  then,  that  it  is  the  afternoon.  You 
make  your  way  along  the  Canadian  shore  to- 
wards Inspiration  Point,  and  what  we  still  call 
19 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

Table  Rock,  though  the  last  vestige  of  the 
rock  itself  fell  over  forty  years  ago.  You  find 
at  once  that  here  the  railroad  has  entered 
Paradise.  The  tracks  of  an  electric  road  ac- 
company you  all  the  way.  It  was  built  in 
1892,  and  runs  along  the  whole  Niagara  gorge 
from  Queenston,  seven  miles  below,  to  the 
placid  beauty  of  the  Dufferin  Islands,  where 
iron  railroad  bridges  now  run  side  by  side  with 
all  the  older  ones  of  inoffensive  wqod.  The 
world  must  move.  Electric  cars  run  from 
The  Hague  to  the  bathing  houses  of  Schev- 
eningen.  They  run  even  from  Florence  up 
to  Fiesole,  and  how  can  Niagara  be  spared ! 
They  are  necessary  and  laudable,  but  as  unat- 
tractive to  the  eye  as  the  cheap  books  that 
have  opened  literature  to  the  million. 

Below  Inspiration  Point  the  view  may  pos- 
sibly be  disappointing,  but  from  this  point  on 
it  is  difficult  for  one  who  knows  the  place  to 
see  how  even  a  newcomer  can  fail  to  be  most 
powerfully  impressed,  especially  if  the  convic- 
tion of  the  height  of  Niagara  has  been  first 
well  driven  home  by  a  journey  through  the 
Cave  or  on  the  steamer.  Still,  a  Bostonian 
looked  first  from  here  and  promptly  wished  to 

20 


WHAT   TO   SEE. 

improve  on  Nature  by  removing  the  barren 
wall  of  Goat  Island,  so  that  there  should  be 
one  continuous  fall.  A  more  legitimate  source 
of  disappointment  is  due  to  the  heavy  spray. 
Over  and  over  travellers  brought  with  care  to 
Table  Rock  for  their  first  view,  open  their  eyes 
to  see  only  an  invisible  Niagara,  both  Ameri- 
can Fall  and  the  Horseshoe  being  veiled  com- 
pletely by  a  loud,  thundering  cloud  of  mist. 

Tlie  Horseshoe  Fall. 

As  you  advance  towards  the  Horseshoe, 
and  see  farther  and  farther  into  its  white  re- 
cesses, until,  at  Table  Rock,  you  are  admitted 
almost  to  the  heart  of  its  secrets,  the  sensation 
of  awe  in  the  presence  of  such  majesty  is  ir- 
resistible. You  stand  at  one  limit  of  the  vast 
curve.  Your  eye  traverses  the  whole  extent 
of  the  silent  sheets  of  plunging  water,  and  fol- 
lows them  downward  to  the  milky  sea  beneath. 
From  below  rise  such  enormous  clouds  of 
shifting  spray  that  at  times  all  outlines  are 
confused.  The  vagueness  magnifies  each  dis- 
tance, and  through  the  blur  the  opposite  crest 
seems  infinitely  far  away,  and  the  chasm  bot- 

21 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

tomless.  The  effect  is  all  of  white  and  gray, 
and  yet  conspicuous  before  you  is  the  great 
Green  Water,  the  one  place  where  the  flood  of 
Niagara  does  not  break  instantly  into  foam 
but  clings  together  in  a  solid  sheet  that  de- 
scends for  many  feet  unbroken,  exhibiting  the 
exquisite  color  of  the  green  deep  sea.  The 
water  nearer  is  sometimes  turbid  and  yellow. 
Everywhere  its  surface  has  a  waxen,  sheeny 
glaze  that  is  characteristic  of  Niagara.  At  the 
convergence  of  the  two  opposite  faces  of  the 
cataract  the  confusion  of  waters  is  indescriba- 
ble. Above  all  mounts  the  white  column  of 
spray  that  seems  to 

"  Rise  like  a  cloud  of  incense  from  the  earth." 

The  man  or  woman  here  who  does  not  de- 
scend to  the  foot  of  the  precipice  commits  a  sin 
unpardonable.  Fear  may  forbid  the  Cave  of 
the  Winds,  or  even  the  Maid  of  the  Mist,  but 
here  you  have  firm  Mother-earth  to  stand  on. 
If  the  whim  of  the  wind  allows  you  dry  rocks 
you  can  lie  at  your  ease  in  the  sun  and  drink 
in  almost  the  view  which  the  prow  of  the 
steamer  presents  for  a  second  and  then 
snatches  from  you.  You  are  in  the  same  white 

22 


_ 


Photographs  by  Orrin  E.  Dunlap. 
THE    HORSESHOE    FROM    THE    MAID    OF    THE    MIST. 


WHAT  TO   SEE. 

pit  of  downward  rushing  walls.  You  have  al- 
most the  same  sense  of  having  conquered  the 
inaccessible,  of  having  invaded  sanctity.  It  is 
like  the  disembodied  joys  of  spirits. 

Mr.  Howells  speaks  in  his  book  of  the  repose 
of  Niagara.  Another  paradox  is  its  silence.  The 
sheets  of  falling  water  are  so  unchanging  to 
the  eye  that  the  motion  seems  no  more  actual 
than  when  the  breeze  runs  through  a  field  of 
grain.  It  moves  without  moving.  In  some 
such  way  the  unchanging  volume  of  sound 
soon  leaves  on  the  ear  a  strange  sense  of  si- 
lence. Now  and  again,  however,  as  some  more 
compact  mass  of  water  makes  its  fall,  a  new 
note  strikes  the  ear,  and  under  all  is  the  heavy 
beating  of  the  air  as  if  of  sound  too  low  for 
the  range  of  human  hearing.  It  has  always 
seemed  to  me  as  if  much  of  the  voice  of  Ni- 
agara might  be  to  us  inaudible.* 

It  is  strange  that  no  great  poem  has  yet 
been  written  for  Niagara.  Many  have  tried 
their  hand,  but  there  is  nothing  of  established 
fame,  nothing  that  is  known  for  itself  as  well 

*  In  "  Scribner's  Magazine"  for  February,  1881,  there  is 
an  article  on  "  The  Music  of  Niagara,"  by  Eugene  M.  Thayer. 
He  writes  the  chords  of  its  different  harmonies,  but  finds  them 
four  octaves  lower  than  the  keyboards  'of  our  pianos. 
23 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

as  for  its  subject.  There  is  line  after  line,  how- 
ever, of  Coleridge's  Hymn  to  Mont  Blanc 
which  if  once  thought  of  at  Niagara  will  be 
always  thought  of  there.  Verse  after  verse 
is  curiously  apposite.  Those  who  have  never 
made  the  translation  from  mountain  to  cata- 
ract will  find  in  it  a  wealth  of  new  associations 
for  both  poem  and  place. 

The  waters  at  thy  base 

Rave  ceaselessly  ;  but  thou,  most  awful  Form, 
[Fallest]  from  forth  thy  silent  sea  of  green, 
How  silently 

0  dread  and  silent  [Fall  !]  I  gazed  upon  thee 
Till  thou,  still  present  to  the  bodily  sense, 

Didst  vanish  from  my  thought.     Entranced  in  prayer 

1  worshipped  the  Invisible  alone. 

Yet  like  some  sweet  beguiling  melody, 

So  sweet  we  know  not  we  are  listening  to  it, 

Thou,  the  meanwhile,  wast  blending  with  my  thought, — 

Yea,  with  my  life  and  life's  own  secret  joy — 

Till  the  dilating  soul,  enrapt,  transfused, 

Into  the  mighty  vision  passing — there, 

As  in  her  natural  form,  swelled  vast  to  Heaven. 

Who  gave  you  your  invulnerable  life, 
Your  strength,  your  speed,  your  fury,  and  your  joy, 
24 


WHAT  TO   SEE. 

Unceasing  thunder  and  eternal  foam  ? 

Who  made  you  glorious  as  the  gates  of  Heaven 
Beneath  the  keen  full  moon  ?     Who  bade  the  sun 
Clothe  you  with  rainbows  ?     Who,  with  living  flowers 
Of  loveliest  blue,  spread  garlands  at  your  feet  ? 
God  ! — let  the  torrents,  like  a  shout  of  nations, 
Answer  !  and  let  the  ice-plains  echo,  God  ! 

The%  Beautiful  Dufferin  Islands. 

The  Titans  of  Niagara  have  been  presented. 
They  are  grand,  beautiful,  but  overpowering. 
The  strain  on  the  sensations  is  so  exhausting 
that  to  stay  long  with  them  is  oppressive,  and 
after  looking  your  fill  you  are  glad  to  with- 
draw to  the  more  human  pleasures  of  the  isl- 
ands. 

One  of  the  delights  of  Niagara  is  the  con- 
stant alternation  of  tumult  and  peace,  of 
majesty  and  winsomeness.  Willow  Island  and 
Goat  Island  are  full  of  sweet  wood  charm.  On 
Goat  Island,  especially,  you  can  quite  forget 
Niagara,  although  all  the  time  its  nearness  in- 
duces an  exaltation  of  spirit  which  enhances 
the  restful  beauty  of  the  forest. 

The  Dufferin  Islands,  on  the  Canadian 
25 


THE   NIAGARA   BOOK. 

shore  a  mile  above  the  Horseshoe,  have  a 
unique  quality  which  cannot  easily  be  stated. 
They  are  the  perfection  of  rustic  loveliness, 
and  the  approach  is  hardly  less  lovely. 

If  you  take  the  electric  road,  or  even  the 
carriageway,  to  the  Dufrerins,  you  will  miss 
much  beauty ;  but  the  distance  is  more  than  a 
mile,  so  that  it  may  be  necessary.  The  foot- 
path is  best,  for  it  follows  the  water's  edge, 
climbing  the  slope  of  the  rapids,  a  green  bow- 
ered  path,  with  the  big,  breezy  river  at  the  left. 
At  intervals  are  rustic  seats  from  which  you 
can  watch  the  turmoil  so  near  you,  and  the  in- 
tricate tossing  of  the  breakers. 

Here,  as  everywhere  at  Niagara,  a  bicycle  is 
the  ideal  vehicle.  It  lifts  you  from  the  earth, 
spiritually  and  physically;  you  have  not  the 
sight  of  the  horses  nor  the  noise  of  their  hoofs 
to  distract  you ;  and  you  can  have  the  intimate 
beauty  of  the  footpaths  without  the  weariness 
of  the  magnificent  distances.  A  bicycle  day 
at  Niagara  is  an  unforgettable  pleasure,  and 
no  part  of  it  more  so  than  the  ride  up  the  wind- 
ing path  to  the  Dufrerins. 

Whether  you  approach  by  bicycle,  by  car- 
riage, or  by  trolley,  you  see  little  of  the  islands 
26 


WHAT   TO   SEE. 

unless  you  leave  your  vehicle  and  explore  the 
narrow  paths. 

First  comes  a  swift  river,  about  thirty  feet 
wide,  sweeping  close  against  the  hand-rail 
which  guards  the  path.  The  river  describes 
a  semicircle,  and  the  path  by  its  side  is  at  the 
base  of  steep,  dense  woods,  and  is  so  overhung 
with  vines  that  you  proceed  through  a  succes- 
sion of  pergolas.  Here  and  there  weeping 
willows  whip  the  stream  incessantly  with  their 
trailing  branches.  After  this  circuit,  or  before 
it,  you  must  by  no  means  fail  to  wander 
through  the  mazes  of  the  islands  themselves. 
Wherever  you  turn  you  will  find  a  tangled 
cluster  of  wooded  islands,  carpeted  with  thin 
gray  sheets  of  rushing  water,  clear  as  a  trout 
stream.  Plank  walks  carry  you  dry  shod 
through  many  places  where  all  the  dense  vege- 
tation springs  not  from  earth,  but  from  a  film 
of  swift,  transparent  water.  This  forest  Ven- 
ice, with  its  lovers'  walks,  and  bowers,  and 
platforms,  is  indescribably  fascinating. 

The  Burning  Spring. 

Those  who  have  ample  time  will  find  it 
worth  while  to  visit  also  the  burning  spring 

27 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

on  the  hill  above  the  Dufferins.  You  are 
shown  into  a  darkened  room,  where  an  outlet 
of  natural  gas  is  lighted  on  payment  of  a  fee, 
and  the  tossing  of  the  great  flames  is  pictur- 
esque and  beautiful. 


IV. 


THE   RAPIDS  AND   PROSPECT   PARK GOAT   ISL- 
AND,   LUNA   ISLAND,   THE  THREE   SISTERS. 

It  is  late  to  speak  of  the  famous  rapids  above 
the  Goat  Island  bridge  which,  for  many  visit- 
ors, are  the  first  thing  seen  at  Niagara  and  the 
last  forgotten.  They  do  not  equal  the  great 
rapids  above  the  Whirlpool,  seen  from  the 
Gorge  Road,  but  they  are  a  chief  source  of 
pleasure.  To  see  them  it  is  necessary,  abso- 
lutely, to  descend  to  one  of  the  platforms  at 
the  river's  edge.  Unless  you  do  so  they  have 
not  been  seen.  Sit  for  at  least  ten  minutes, 
watching,  and  the  fascination  will  seize  you 
irresistibly.  It  is  like  a  great  turmoil  of  tossing 
ostrich  feathers,  except  that  there  is  feverish 
life  in  these  white  plumes  restlessly  curling. 
There  are  tags  of  verse  in  the  mind  everywhere 
28 


WHAT  TO   SEE. 

at  Niagara.    The  one  that  speaks  to  me  here  is 
from  Matthew  Arnold : 

Now  the  wild  white  horses  play, 
Champ  and  chafe  and  toss  in  the  spray. 

And  again : 

The  wild  white  horses  foam  and  fret, 
"  Margaret !  Margaret !  " 

In  sunshine  these  rapids  blaze  from  a  dis- 
tance like  white  fire  and  are  intolerable  to  the 
eye.  Although  not  so  terrific  as  the  lower 
rapids,  they  are  perhaps  as  exciting  because 
they  are  hastening  towards  doom  instead  of 
escaping  from  it.  As  we  watch,  the  imagina- 
tion inevitably  includes  the  shuddering  leap 
into  space.  They  race  madly  towards  disaster, 
and  as  you  follow  you  share  their  impatience. 
You  walk  close  at  the  river's  edge,  unprotected 
from  the  contagion  of  its  motion,  until  you 
reach  the  brink  at  Prospect  Park,  where  only 
a  low  stone  rampart  separates  you  from  the 
Fall. 

Prospect  Park. 

This  is  generally  the   first   view   seen   by 
visitors,  but,  though  fine,  it  is  not  the  best. 
29 


THE   NIAGARA   BOOK. 

The  Falls  are  seen  in  profile  so  that  the  line  of 
their  length  is  foreshortened,  and  the  height 
seems  much  less  than  when  seen  from  below. 
It  is  well  to  insist  on  seeing  Niagara  first  from 
its  base;  what  we  look  down  on  never  seems 
so  great  as  what  we  must  look  up  to. 

The  sight  from  Prospect  Point  is  beautiful 
enough,  however,  and  a  favorite  one  to  return 
to.  If  there  is  any  sun  there  is  always  a  rain- 
bow in  the  morning,  and  at  any  time  the  great 
mass  of  shifting  spray  which  cushions  the 
falling  waters  will  hold  the  eye  prisoner.  It 
seems  as  if  some  vast  sea  monster  would 
emerge  from  it,  as  in  "  Schiller's  Diver."  At 
night  especially  it  is  mysterious  and  awful. 

As  you  follow  the  rampart  along  the  preci- 
pice the  views  change  gradually.  One  of  the 
best  is  labelled  Father  Hennepin's  View.  It  is 
supposed  to  be  the  view  seen  in  1678  by  Father 
Hennepin,  a  Jesuit  missionary,  and  Chevalier 
de  la  Salle — the  first  white  men  who  ever  saw 
Niagara.  The  former  writes  of  it  as  follows : 
"  A  vast  and  prodigious  Cadence  of  Water 
which  falls  down  after  a  surprising  and  aston- 
ishing manner,  in  so  much  that  the  Universe 
does  not  afford  its  parallel.  .  .  .  This 
30 


WHAT  TO   SEE. 

Wonderful  Downfall  is  compounded  of  two 
cross  streams  of  water,  and  two  falls  with  an 
isle  sloping  along  the  middle  of  it.  The  waters 
which  fall  from  this  horrible  precipice  do  foam 
and  boyl  after  the  most  hideous  manner  imag- 
inable; making  an  outrageous  Noise,  more  ter- 
rible than  that  of  thunder;  for  when  the  wind 
blows  out  of  the  South  their  dismal  roaring 
may  be  heard  more  than  Fifteen  Leagues  off." 

Goat  Island  and  Luna  Island. 

Those  who  fear  the  trip  on  the  Maid  of  the 
Mist  can  cross  from  here  to  the  Canada  shore 
by  the  bridge;  or,  if  Goat  Island  is  taken  next, 
it  is  but  a  few  rods  back  to  the  Goat  Island 
bridge.  As  we  cross  we  have  a  fine  view  of 
the  hill  of  the  rapids  on  the  left,  while  on  the 
right  we  see  the  brink  of  the  Fall.  The  Ameri- 
can islands  are  anchored  in  .the  very  centre  of 
Niagara.  First  comes  Bath  Island,  which  is 
uninteresting,  and  then  Goat  Island  itself,  a  fa- 
mous treasure-house  of  delights.  There  are  no 
more  lovely  forest  roads  or  paths  in  the  world 
than  those  on  Goat  Island,  and  Asa  Gray,  the 
botanist,  tells  us  that  there  is  hardly  another 
31 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

place  in  the  world  where  so  great  a  variety 
of  trees  and  flowers  can  be  found  in  so  small  an 
area.  Goat  Island  is  still  covered  with  original 
forest,  except  for  the  carriageways  and  foot- 
paths that  traverse  it.  That  this  is  so  is  due 
no  doubt  to  the  fortunate  fact  that  for  genera- 
tions all  the  Niagara  islands,  as  well  as  part  of 
the  mainland,  were  owned  by  the  wealthy  fam- 
ily of  Gen.  Peter  B.  Porter,  well  known  in  the 
War  of  1812.  A  summer  hotel  on  the  bank  of 
Goat  Island,  overlooking  the  Horseshoe, 
would  have  been  a  source  of  enormous  profit, 
but  the  sanctity  of  the  place  was  always  re- 
spected. A  pleasant  story  is  told  of  one  of 
the  family  who  was  asked  in  England  if  she 
had  ever  seen  Niagara  Falls.  Drawing  her- 
self up  proudly,  she  quite  annihilated  her  ques- 
tioner with  the  unexpected  answer :  "  Niagara 
Falls !  I  own  them." 

You  circle  round  Goat  Island  by  a  shady 
road  with  cool  forest  depths  on  one  side  and 
on  the  other  a  steep,  wooded  bank  with 
glimpses  of  the  river  through  the  leaves.  A 
flight  of  steps  leads  down  to  Luna  Island,  and 
from  its  landings  affords  the  finest  view  that  is 
to  be  had  of  the  American  Fall.  If  you  study 
32 


WHAT  TO  SEE. 

it  closely  you  will  find  that  there  are  subtle 
harmonies  in  the  color  of  Niagara  as  well  as 
in  its  music.  The  Fall  is  by  no  means  only 
gray  and  white.  If  the  sun  favors,  you  will 
find  at  times  faint  tints  of  lavender,  of  rose,  and 
green. 

A  low  bridge  leads  directly  over  the  roof  of 
the  Cave  of  the  Winds  to  Luna  Island.  This 
bridge  in  winter  is  so  thickly  crusted  with  ice 
that  as  you  cross  your  feet  are  almost  level 
with  the  railing  at  the  side.  The  island  itself 
is  so  called  from  the  lunar  rainbow  which  is 
often  seen  from  it  in  the  spray — a  mere  dim 
ghost  of  a  rainbow,  hardly  brighter  than  the 
third  arch  even  of  a  solar  bow.  It  is  beautiful 
to  see,  but  the  beauty  lies  less  in  the  bow  itself 
than  in  its  weird  accompaniment  of  night  shad- 
ows and  moonlight.  The  island  is  small,  and 
so  flat  upon  the  water  that  a  trifle  would  sub- 
merge it.  The  shallow,  transparent  sheet  of 
water  that  passes  over  the  long,  ragged  edge  of 
the  American  Fall  is  so  near  your  feet  that  you 
can  touch  it  as  it  leaves  the  brink. 

In  fact,  everywhere  the  great  accessibility 
of  Niagara  is  strongly  felt.  It  never  holds 
you  at  arm's  length.  As  you  look  down  at 

3  33 


THE   NIAGARA   BOOK. 

the  huge  clouds  of  smoky  vapor  you  lean  over 
a  low  parapet  of  stone  along  which  the  river 
brushes  as  it  makes  the  plunge;  and  if  you 
continue  now  along  the  Goat  Island  road  to 
the  Horseshoe  you  can  paddle  in  the  water  at 
the  very  verge.  There  is  never  the  tantaliz- 
ing wish  to  get  "  a  little  nearer."  Except  for 
occasional  dashes  of  spray,  no  monarch  of  Na- 
ture allows  more  absolute  freedom  of  ap- 
proach. 

From  Goat  Island,  the  Horseshoe  shows 
but  one  of  its  curving  faces,  but  it  is  that  which 
is  crowned  by  the  wonderful  Green  Water  al- 
ready mentioned.  It  is  better  seen  from  the 
bank  above  than  from  below.  The  rich  green 
mass  descends  unbroken  until  it  is  lost  to  sight 
behind  the  nearer  curve  of  the  Fall.  You  see 
no  chasm ;  merely  two  edges  with  a  deep  seam 
or  scar  between,  broken  at  moments  by  a  sud- 
den, spurting  leap  of  spray  from  the  invisible 
depths,  a  silent  messenger  of  the  tumult  below. 

The  Three  Sister  Islands. 

The  road  leaves  the  Horseshoe.  A  broad, 
breezy  view  fills  the  eye,  and  presently  appear 
the  bridges  of  the  Three  Sister  Islands.  The 

34 


WHAT   TO   SEE. 

first  bridge  crosses  a  thin  stream  of  water, 
so  quiet  that  one  would  hardly  be  afraid  to 
wade  to  the  other  side.  There  is  no  suggestion 
of  the  rush  and  roar  of  Niagara.  The  second 
stream  is  much  more  turbulent.  The  third, 
narrow  but  noisy,  comes  racing  down  the  slope 
with  breathless  speed,  and  crashes  immediately 
over  a  low  parapet  of  rock  with  an  uproar  as  of 
forty  Niagaras.  It  is  so  little  and  so  furious 
that  it  frightens  you.  It  shakes  the  water  into 
shreds  and  tatters  and  flings  it  down  in  a 
tangled  heap  of  white  motion,  to  pass  on  in- 
stantly without  reprieve  to  the  new  fate  be- 
yond. It  is  like  torture  before  death.  A  soft 
green  dimple  in  the  lower  stream  is  all  that 
marks  the  vortex  of  the  Horseshoe  into  which 
the  water  plunges. 

The  small  bridge  quivers  with  the  rush  of 
water  so  close  below  it.  This  bridge  and  Pros- 
pect Park  are  said  to  be  the  favorite  resorts  of 
men  intent  on  suicide,  but  those  who  care  for 
life  can  hardly  .find  a  dearer  lingering  spot  for 
a  long  summer's  day  than  at  the  foot  of  this 
small  torrent. 

The  Third  Sister  gives  again  the  broad,  free 
outlook  on  the  river.  Not  far  from  the  shore 

35 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

is  the  Spouting  Rock,  or  Leaping  Horse, 
where  the  water  shoots  up  at  intervals  in  a 
dash  of  spray.  A  little  clambering  over  the 
gnarled  rocks  of  the  island  brings  you  to  the 
water's  edge,  where  you  can  look  up  the  cur- 
rent to  the  horizon.  By  springing  over  a  nar- 
row gap  you  reach  a  boulder  near  the  shore, 
on  the  farther  side  of  which  the  water  sweeps 
down  a  little  glassy  shoot  shaped  like  a 
beaver's  tail.  Tiny  white  waves  keep  curling 
up  it  from  below,  trying  to  climb  the  slope. 
The  pygmy  army  is  unwearied  in  its  attack, 
but,  like  Sisyphus,  it  toils  upward  in  vain. 

The  carriage  road  and  footpath  lead  from 
the  Sisters  to  the  Parting  of  the  Waters  at  the 
upper  end  of  Goat  Island,  where  the  river 
divides  its  mass  for  either  Fall  very  quietly, 
with  only  a  light  ripple  on  the  shore ;  and  still 
farther  is  a  glen  known  as  "  The  Spring." 
Then  come  the  bridges  to  the  mainland,  and 
the  tour  of  Goat  Island  has  been  accomplished. 

If  you  wish  to  taste  again  the  constant  al- 
ternation between  peace  and  conflict  which 
makes  Niagara  so  bewildering,  walk  up  the 
water's  edge  to  a  willow  grove  which  is  idyllic 
in  its  beauty ;  and  if  then  you  wish  in  full  meas- 
36 


WHAT   TO   SEE. 

ure  a  benediction  on  your  day,  return  to  the 
hotel  or  train  by  the  lovely  River  Road,  which 
follows  the  bank  in  an  easy  curve  that  is  a  de- 
light to  the  senses.  It  is  but  a  moment  longer, 
and  I  know  of  nothing  that  will  leave  so  sweet 
a  flavor  in  the  mind. 


V. 


LOWER  NIAGARA.      THE  WHIRLPOOL  RAPIDS 

THE     WHIRLPOOL THE     GORGE     ROAD     TO 

LEWISTON  AND  QUEENSTON BROCK'S  MON- 
UMENT,   YOUNGSTOWN. 

All  that  has  been  described — Cave  of  the 
Winds,  Maid  of  the  Mist,  Dufferin  Islands,  and 
all — may  be  seen  in  a  day  by  the  abject  slave  to 
time.  He  will  come  away  dazed,  uncertain, 
almost,  whether  the  cataract  flows  up  or  down, 
and  unfit,  utterly,  to  say  a  word  in  criticism, 
either  of  praise  or  blame.  Still,  if  a  day  is  all 
that  life  allows  you,  it  is  best  to  crowd  it  full. 
If  not  afraid  of  mental  indigestion,  the  one-day 
tourist  might  make  room  in  his  day  not  only 
for  all  this,  but  for  a  glimpse,  at  least,  of  the 
wonderful  Whirlpool  Rapids.  To  see  more 
37 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

than  this  of  lower  Niagara,  even  in  the  most 
hasty  fashion,  a  second  day  is  indispensable, 
unless  the  Cave  of  the  Winds,  the  Dufferins,  or 
some  other  of  the  charms  which  surround  the 
cataract,  are  sacrificed. 

On  the  American  shore  the  Niagara  gorge 
can  be  traversed  in  several  ways.  There  are 
three  railroad  tracks,  above,  below,  and  mid- 
way. The  carriage  road  above  is  too  far  back 
from  the  brink  to  afford  views,  but  the  trains 
of  the  &ome,  Watertown  and  Ogdensburg 
Railroad  have  some  fine,  distant  outlooks. 
They  are  not  specially  arranged  for  sightseers, 
however,  and  are  less  desirable  for  scenic  pur- 
poses than  the  trains  of  the  New  York  Central, 
which  carry  open  observation  cars  in  summer 
through  the  gorge,  from  Niagara  Falls  to 
Lewiston.  The  tracks  are  half-way  up  the  side 
of  the  cliff,  and  the  ride  is  beautiful.  The  dis- 
tance is  about  seven  miles. 

The  Gorge  Road. 

Most  tourists  will  prefer  the  round  trip  on 
the  electric  road,  which  has  the  advantage  of 
giving  you  both  shores,  one  from  above,  the 
other  from  the  water's  edge.  On  the  Cana- 

38 


WHAT   TO   SEE. 

dian  side  the  only  road  is  the  trolley,  on  top  of 
the  bank.  The  round  trip  takes  over  two 
hours  and  is  usually  taken  on  the  Canadian 
side  first,  because  of  the  fine  views  as  you  de- 
scend the  mountain,  looking  towards  Lake 
Ontario.  It  is  a  trip  on  no  account  to  be 
missed  if  you  can  afford  the  time.  It  is  best, 
if  possible,  to  make  many  stops  at  the  different 
stations  on  the  line,  especially  at  the  Whirl- 
pool Rapids.  % 

The  Upper  Whirlpool  Rapids. 

These  rapids,  rather  than  the  Whirlpool,  are 
the  feature  of  lower  Niagara.  They  are  wilder, 
finer,  in  every  way  more  splendid  than  the 
rapids  above  the  falls.  On  the  Canadian  side 
you  descend  by  elevator  to  the  rapids,  but  the 
American  trolley  road  takes  you  directly  by 
them.  If  you  sit  on  the  rocks,  almost  in  the 
spray,  you  find  a  mass  of  roaring  water,  be- 
tween high  walls  of  rock,  that  leaps  incredibly 
into  the  air.  At  times  it  spurts  almost  like  a. 
geyser,  and  from  the  bank  will  even  hide  from 
sight  a  low  house  on  the  other  shore.  It  is  the 
most  infernal  riot  of  mad  waves  that  the  mind 
can  picture.  Like  Hamlet's  players,  in  the 

39 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

torrent,  tempest,  and  whirlwind  of  their  fury, 
they  tear  their  passion  to  tatters,  to  very  rags. 
They  race  past  with  a  suicidal  rage  and  vio- 
lence which  is  terrifying.  The  place  is  one  to 
linger  at  for  hours  and  is  one  of  the  chief  glor- 
ies of  the  Falls. 

The  Whirlpool. 

The  Whirlpool  also  can  be  visited  by  those 
who  have  scant  time,  without  taking  the  whole 
trip  through  the  gorge.  It  is  apt  to  disap- 
point the  expectation,  but  all  wish  to  see  it. 
From  the  rapids,  if  you  are  adventurous,  you 
can  reach  the  Whirlpool  by  following  the 
shore  and  climbing  up  the  bank.  If  you  are 
prudent,  however,  you  will  take  the  trolley  or 
the  carriage  road.  From  above,  as  you  look 
down  over  the  bank,  the  first  sensation  is  sur- 
prising, almost  uncanny.  Niagara  is  caught 
in  a  trap.  It  enters  a  circle  without  outlet. 
Your  eye  follows  the  whole  contour  and  finds 
no  interruption  in  the  line  of  shore.  From  a 
few  steps  farther  to  the  right  you  see  below 
you  the  narrow  gap  through  which  the  river 
turns,  at  a  full  right  angle  with  its  former 

course.     It  seems  as  if  a  girl  could  throw  a 
40 


WHAT   TO   SEE. 

stone  over,  but  men  have  tried  and  seen  the 
stone  land  on  the  nearer  shore,  short  even  of 
the  water's  edge. 

Those  who  expect  to  find  a  maelstrom  in  the 
Pool  will  be  ludicrously  taken  by  surprise.  A 
country  millpond  is  hardly  more  serene.  The 
water  circles  lazily  around  its  pen  as  if  indiffer- 
ent whether  it  escaped  or  not.  Above  the  hole 
and  below  is  the  rattle  of  the  rapids  and  the 
glitter  of  their  white  spray,  but  the  Whirlpool 
itself  is  dark  and  still.  When  the  first  disap- 
pointment is  over  at  not  seeing  the  boiling, 
riotous  whirl  of  the  railway  posters,  you  realize 
a  silent  strength  and  majesty  that  grow  awful. 
It  is  not  so  hard  to  believe  that  what  is  once 
drawn  down  into  its  centre  will  not  emerge 
for  days. 

To  Queenston  and  Lewiston. 

If  you  see  only  the  Whirlpool  Rapids  and  the 
Whirlpool  you  will  get  a  good  idea  of  the 
Niagara  gorge,  but  the  whole  trip  to  Queens- 
ton  and  Lewiston  should  be  taken  if  possible. 
The  cars  cross  the  bridge,  a  thread  poised  be- 
tween two  panoramas.  Under  the  bridge  on 
the  American  side  you  can  see  the  outlet  of  the 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

power  tunnel  which  is  said  to  have  "  harnessed 
Niagara."  The  inlet  of  the  tunnel  is  some  dis- 
tance above  the  Falls,  and  the  vast  power  sup- 
plied is  used  both  in  Niagara  Falls  and  in 
Buffalo. 

From  the  Canadian  end  of  the  bridge  the 
tracks  keep  close  to  the  edge  of  the  cliff  so  that 
you  can  look  down  at  the  green  stream  below; 
at  times  there  are  viaducts  over  deep  gorges 
above  the  tree  tops,  and  as  you  approach 
Brock's  Monument  and  descend  rapidly  into 
the  quaint  little  village  of  Queenston  the  view 
of  Lake  Ontario  in  the  distance  is  superb.  It 
is  worth  while  to  leave  the  car  and  enjoy  the 
view  until  the  next  car  arrives. 

After  crossing  from  Queenston  to  Lewiston 
the  cars  return,  following  the  edge  of  the 
stream.  It  is  a  dramatic,  magnificent  ride,  but 
it  passes  too  quickly  for  the  fullest  pleasure. 
No  one  should  fail  to  get  off  and  linger  at  the 
Upper  Whirlpool  Rapids. 

Niagara-on-the-Lake  and  Youngstown.   Toronto. 

The  beauty  of  the  river  continues  all  the  way 
to  its  mouth  at  Lake  Ontario.     Niagara-on- 
42 


WHAT   TO   SEE. 

the-Lake  and  Youngstown  are  six  miles  below 
Queenston  and  Lewiston.  There  is  an  espe- 
cially good  hotel  at  the  former,  but  possibly 
Queenston  is  more  picturesque  and  interest- 
ing. At  both  there  are  forts  and  military  sta- 
tions, and  the  scarlet  coats  of  the  British  sol- 
diers are  seen  at  the  Canadian  post.  Near 
Lake  Ontario  the  river  is  no  longer  sljut  in  a 
gorge,  but  is  ample  and  splendid,  with  finely 
wooded  banks  and  a  carriage  road  on  either 
side  from  which  the  views  are  ravishing.  The 
road  is  sandy  on  the  Youngstown  side,  but  for 
pedestrians  or  bicyclers  there  are  side  paths 
close  to  the  edge,  and  the  trip  is  of  unforget- 
table beauty.  It  is  by  no  means  inferior  among 
Niagara's  pleasures,  and  the  visitor  from  in- 
land especially  will  enjoy  the  broad  expanse  of 
the  waters  of  Ontario.  Looking  from  the  walls 
of  Fort  Niagara  at  Youngstown  even  the  lover 
of  the  ocean  will  find  nothing  lacking.  From 
either  Youngstown  or  Niagara  steamers  can 
be  taken  for  the  trip  across  the  lake  to  To- 
ronto. 


43 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 


VI. 


SEASONS     AND     MOODS THE     ICE     BRIDGE — 

.      TRAMPS,    STROLLS,    AND    RESTING    PLACES — 
THE    BICYCLER. 

The  perfect  time  for  the  trip  to  Lewiston  is 
in  October.  The  Canadian  bank  is  then  a 
blaze  of  flame,  and  the  green  river  below  and 
blue  sky  above  make  a  beautiful  color  picture. 
The  most  lovely  time  for  upper  Niagara  is  in 
early  spring,  when  Goat  Island  is  covered  with 
flowers  and  the  trees  show  every  tender  shade 
of  green.  The  most  wonderful  season  is  un- 
doubtedly mid-winter. 

Niagara  in  winter  is  like  a  fairy  tale  come 
true.  The  spray  gathers  and  freezes  so  inces- 
santly that  twigs  the  size  of  knitting  needles 
are  cased  with  ice  until  they  have  the  bigness 
of  a  squirrel's  tail.  The  trees  seem  all  of  ice, 
and  their  wood  seems  only  a  stick  to  which 
these  ice  trees  are  tied  for  support.  Whole 
bushes  are  covered  with  a  heavy  splendor 
which,  like  heavy  splendor  elsewhere,  pins 
them  to  the  earth  or  even  breaks  them  down. 
A  low  sun  flashing  through  this  ice  turns  it  to 
44 


WHAT   TO   SEE. 

jewels.  It  is  as  if  the  rainbows  of  Niagara 
were  flung  before  you  in  a  tangled  heap.  In 
a  light  wind  the  rattle  of  the  trees  is  most  un- 
like the  soft  murmur  of  summer.  It  is  rheu- 
matic and  wheezy,  like  opulent  old  age,  cov- 
ered with  diamonds. 

There  are  huge  icicles  like  stalactites  on  the 
cliffs  which  rise  from  the  river.  Many  of  them 
are  discolored  and  show  strong  tints  of  yellow 
and  blue. 

Below  the  American  Fall  the  ice  cone  gath- 
ers and  grows  to  the  height  of  seventy-five  or 
even  of  a  hundred  feet.  Men  climb  it  with 
spiked  shoes  and  coast  fearlessly  down.  The 
freezing  spray  covers  your  hat  with  enamel 
and  makes  your  overcoat  a  rigid  board. 

The  Ice  Bridge. 

In  most  years  a  so-called  ice  bridge  forms. 
A  warm  day  melts  the  field  of  ice  above  the 
Falls.  It  crashes  down  and  chokes  together 
in  the  narrow  gorge  below,  forming  an  ice  floe 
like  a  bridge  from  shore  to  shore.  This 
bridge*  becomes  a  second  Ponte  Vecchio.  It 
is  lined  at  once  on  either  side  by  mushroom 
booths  where  peddlers  sell  their  wares.  They 

45 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

take  your  tintype  with  Niagara  for  a  back- 
ground, but  those  who  lend  themselves  to  such 
an  insult  to  the  place  are  usually  satisfied  to  sit 
before  a  hideous  pasteboard  scene  although 
Niagara  itself  is  close  at  hand.  The  merchants 
deal  in  foreign  liquor  upon  the  doubtful  inter- 
national line. 

The  ice  bridge  in  itself  is  only  this,  and  those 
who  expect  an  arching  span  will  be  disap- 
pointed. It  is  its  association  with  the  winter 
scenery,  and  the  vantage  ground  it  gives  for 
novel  points  of  view,  that  make  it  well  worth 
seeing.  In  winter  usually  you  miss  the  charm 
of  lazy  summer  lingering,  but  on  the  ice 
bridge  you  change  the  fleeting  views  the  Maid 
of  the  Mist  affords  for  ones  more  at  your  ease. 
You  walk  sturdily  where  you  will,  and  look  till 
you  are  satisfied.  The  pleasure,  too,  is  greater 
at  the  water's  edge  than  on  the  deck  of  a 
steamer.  For  this  reason  in  summer  it  is 
pleasantest  to  cross  by  a  small  rowboat  that 
ferries  passengers. 

Moods. 

• 

It  is  not  only  the  seasons  that  change  the 
aspect  of  Niagara.   In  fact,  it  differs  every  day 
46 


WHAT   TO   SEE. 

in  mood.  You  cannot  go  twice  to  the  same 
place  without  seeing  some  new  thing.  One 
day  you  can  climb  higher  than  ever  before 
upon  the  rocks  at  the  base  of  Prospect  Park 
until  you  sit  dry  in  the  shadow  of  the  American 
Fall,  fairly  behind  its  sheet.  Another  day  you 
cannot  put  your  head  outside  of  the  house  at 
the  foot  of  the  inclined  railway  without  meet- 
ing a  blinding  shower  of  spray  from  the  same 
Fall  that  makes  any  visit  to  the  rocks  impos- 
sible. These  changes  of  the  spray  occur  with 
disconcerting  suddenness,  especially  below. 
The  wind  whips  suddenly  around  the  compass, 
and  before  you  think,  lashes  the  spray  at  your 
face.  I  have  seen  a  girl  who  was  standing  too 
near  the  Fall  drenched  instantly  with  a  rush  of 
spray.  Even  when  above  a  little  wetting  often 
comes. 

These  are  the  natural  aspects  of  Niagara. 
To  see  it  in  more  unfamiliar,  curious  beauty, 
as  only  one  in  hundreds  cares  to  do,  walk  by 
summer  moonlight  through  the  Lewiston 
gorge  or  see  the  Horseshoe  by  the  winter 
moon. 


47 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

Tramps,  Resting  Places — The  Bicycler. 

To  catalogue  the  pleasures  of  Niagara  and 
not  describe  the  many  tramps  it  offers  would 
be  a  mistake.  The  shortest  and  perhaps  the 
best  is  down  the  gorge  to  Lewiston,  about  five 
miles,  a  pleasant  journey  for  an  afternoon. 
Begin  not  at  Niagara,  but  at  Suspension 
Bridge.  Two  miles  of  country  road  lead  to 
the  Devil's  Hole,  the  scene  in  1765  of  a  mas- 
sacre of  English  by  the  French  and  Indians 
who  are  said  to  have  forced  them  down  the 
cliff.  Upon  a  broad  plateau  of  rocks  you  look 
down  on  the  tops  of  trees  that  fill  the  pit  below. 
The  rapids  of  the  river  spot  its  dark  green  sur- 
face with  white,  and  their  clamor  is  always  in 
the  air.  A  few  steps  farther  on  you  leave  the 
road,  from  which  there  are  no  views,  and  take 
the  railroad  track,  a  ledge  half-way  up  the  side 
of  the  cliff,  with  a  sheer  mountain  of  rocks 
above  and  the  wonderful  river  talking  loudly 
below.  Keep  on  the  track  to  Lewiston  and 
then  come  back  by  train. 

If  you  have  a  whole  day's  time  and  can 
stand  a  more  vigorous  walk,  begin  on  the 
Canadian  side  of  the  Suspension  Bridge,  walk 
48 


WHAT  TO   SEE. 

by  the  road  to  the  Whirlpool,  crawl  around  its 
circling  beach  over  ground  thick  with  petrified 
leaves,  and  when  you  reach  the  outlet  climb 
somehow  up  the  bluff  and  keep  to  the  brink 
until  you  reach  Brock's  Monument  and 
Queenston.  It  is  about  seven  miles,  and  if  you 
are  rowed  across  at  the  Queenston  ferry  and 
come  back  up  the  railroad  track  from  Lewis- 
ton  you  will  have  had  a  glorious  day.  The 
walk  along  the  Canadian  brink  is  tangled  and 
rough,  and  often  lengthened  by  retreating 
gorges  which  have  to  be  skirted,  but  the  views 
are  beautiful.  There  are  many  jutting  bluffs, 
and  in  the  gorges  are  fantastic  boulders.  Upon 
the  hill  below  the  monument  to  General  Brock 
you  look  far  off  to  Lake  Ontario;  it  is  another 
place  for  a  day's  resting. 

If  you  take  this  for  an  epilogue  to  Niagara 
you  may  like  also  a  prologue.  There  is  no 
pleasanter  approach  than  to  walk  or  drive 
from  Buffalo  on  the  Canadian  shore.  The  dis- 
tance is  not  more  than  twenty  miles  and  the 
road  is  almost  always  at  the  river's  edge,  al- 
most upon  the  beach.  It  is  rough  riding  for 
a  bicycle,  but  beautiful  enough  to  repay  much 
jolting.  The  advantage  of  this  approach  is  its 

4  49 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

suddenness.  During  the  last  miles  of  the 
journey  you  see  the  spray  of  Niagara  before 
you,  but  you  get  no  glimpse  of  the  cataract 
until,  at  the  Horseshoe,  the  finest  single  view 
of  Niagara  is  suddenly  disclosed. 

On  the  American  side  you  can  go  as  far  as 
Tonawanda  by  the  tow  path,  which  is  beauti- 
ful but  not  smooth,  and  from  there  by  cinder 
path  to  the  Falls. 

Goat  Island  is  a  wheelman's  paradise,  and 
so  is  the  bowered  path  to  the  Dufferins.  From 
Lewiston  or  Queenston  to  Lake  Ontario  is 
also  a  fascinating  trip  by  bicycle.  You  can 
ferry  over  at  the  river's  mouth.  Grand  Island 
also  has  pleasant  walks  and  bicycle  rides,  and 
if  the  trip  to  Niagara  includes  Buffalo,  the  city 
will  be  found  to  be  practically  all  paved  with 
asphalt  and  thronged  with  bicycles,  even  in 
its  busiest  downtown  streets. 

If  you  want  a  place  to  which  you  can  take 
a  book  for  a  long  afternoon  or  morning,  there 
is  none  more  accessible  or  pleasanter  than 
Willow  Island,  which  is  just  above  the  Goat 
Island  bridge  on  the  mainland.  Other  resting 
places  are  the  forest  depths  of  Goat  Island,  the 
Second  and  Third  Sister  Islands,  or  the  Duf- 
50 


WHAT  TO   SEE. 


ferins;  and  in  lower  Niagara  the  rocks  by 
the  Whirlpool  Rapids,  or  the  hillside  below 
Brock's  Monument. 


VII. 

To  read  too  much  of  a  place  before  seeing  it 
is  to  prepare  the  way  for  disappointment.  Un- 
consciously you  expect  to  crowd  into  the  first 
impression  all  the  finest  aspects  of  repeated 
visits  made  by  others  in  their  happiest  moods. 
You  are  in  danger,  too,  of  displacing  your  own 
natural  sensations  by  others  ready  made.  A 
descriptive  guide  book  stunts  perception  as 
often  as  it  stimulates  it.  The  purpose  of  this 
sketch  lies  in  the  hope  that,  just  as  a  word  may 
kindle  memories  and  enrich  itself  in  the  mind 
of  the  hearer,  these  details  may  serve  for  a  nu- 
cleus around  which  the  scattering  recollections 
of  the  place  may  gather  more  distinctly. 

One  final  word.  If  after  all,  with  all  the 
time  you  have,  Niagara  disappoints  you,  pray 
have  the  grace  to  remember  that  the  fault  may 
be  your  own.  In  a  sense  you  can  see  in  it  only 
what  you  bring  with  you.  As  has  been  said, 
51 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

if  no  man  is  a  hero  to  his  valet  it  is  not  perhaps 
because  the  hero  is  no  hero,  but  because  the 
valet  is  only  a  valet. 


ONE    DAY   AT    NIAGARA. 

Tourists  may  find  these  programmes  for  a 
single  day  serviceable : 

A. — Morning;  Prospect  Park;  Maid  of  the 
Mist;  Horseshoe;  Dufferin  Islands. 

Afternoon:  Goat  Island;  Whirlpool  Rapids 
or  Cave  of  the  Winds. 

In  detail  :  From  the  train  walk  down  Second  Street 
to  the  river  and  follow  the  water's  edge  to  the  brink  at 
Prospect  Park  (l/2  mile)  ;  from  there  take  the  inclined 
railway  to  the  foot  of  the  Falls  and  cross  to  Canada  by 
the  Maid  of  the  Mist  (50  cents),  or  by  the  bridge  (10 
cents),  if  you  are  timid.  Walk  to  the  Horseshoe  (^ 
mile)  ;  walk  or  take  the  electric  car  to  the  Dufferin 
Islands,  and  walk  among  the  islands  ;  return  by  car.  In 
the  afternoon  walk  or  ride  around  Goat  Island  (2J^ 
miles  around)  ;  turn  to  the  right  after  crossing  the 
bridge  from  the  mainland,  and  after  reaching  the  Three 
Sister  Islands  return  by  wood  path  across  the  island. 
The  Cave  of  the  Winds  ($i)  is  reached  from  Goat  Isl- 
and ;  the  Whirlpool  Rapids  by  electric  car  from  Falls 
Street. 

52 


WHAT   TO   SEE. 

B. — Morning:  Prospect  Park;  Maid  of  the 
Mist;  Horseshoe;  Goat  Island. 

Afternoon:  The  Gorge  Road,  including 
Whirlpool  Rapids  and  Whirlpool. 

In  detail  :  The  morning  trip  is  described  in  A.  For 
the  Gorge  Road,  take  the  electric  car  over  the  bridge 
and  down  the  Canadian  bank  to  Queenston,  returning 
on  American  side  (2^  hours).  Stop  over  at  Whirlpool 
and  Whirlpool  Rapids  on  American  side. 

c. — Morning:  Cave  of  the  Winds;  Goat  Isl- 
and; Prospect  Park;  Maid  of  the  Mist,  or 
bridge,  to  Canada;  Horseshoe;  Dufferin 
Islands. 

Afternoon:  The  Gorge  Road,  including 
Whirlpool  Rapids  and  Whirlpool. 

It  would  be  much  better  to  divide  this  into  two  days  ; 
or  to  omit  the  Gorge  Road  and  take  the  Maid  of  the 
Mist,  Horseshoe  and  Dufferins  in  the  afternoon. 

STATISTICS. 

Niagara.     Said  to  be  an  Iroquois  word,  mean- 
ing "  Thunderer  of  Waters." 
Niagara  River. 

Width,  above  the  Falls,  about  4,400  feet; 

53 


THE   NIAGARA   BOOK. 

below  the  Falls,  about  1,000  feet;  at  the 
Whirlpool,  about  400  feet. 

Length  of  river,  from  Lake  Erie  to  Lake 
Ontario,  36  miles. 

Descent,  from  lake  to  lake,  336  feet,  as  fol- 
lows: from  Lake  Erie  to  the  Falls  (22 
miles),  70  feet  (55  feet  of  this  in  the 
Rapids,  y2  mile);  at  the  Falls,  160  feet; 
from  the  Falls  to  Lake  Ontario  (14  miles), 
1 06  feet. 

Current,  estimated  at  from  4  miles  per  hour 
in  the  quietest  places  to  40  miles  at  the 
Whirlpool  Rapids. 

Depth,  estimated  at  20  feet  in  the  river 
above  the  Falls;  at  the  Whirlpool  Rapids, 
250  feet;  in  the  Whirlpool,  400  feet. 

Volume.     Estimated  that  15,000,000  cubic 
feet  of  water  per  minute  pass  over  the 
Falls,  or  about  one  cubic  mile  per  week. 
Niagara  Falls. 

Width  of  Falls  at  the  brink,  including  Goat 
Island,  5,370  feet,  as  follows:  American 
Falls,  i, 060  feet;  Goat  Island,  about  1,300 
feet;  the  Horseshoe,  in  1890,  3,010  feet. 
The  Horseshoe  Falls. 

Height,  158  feet.     Contour,  in  1890,  3,010 

54 


WHAT   TO   SEE. 

feet;  in  1886,  2,600  feet;  in  1842,  2,260 
feet.  Width  across,  at  widest  point,  about 
1,200  feet.  Depth  of  water  at  brink,  esti- 
mated, 20  feet. 

Average  annual  recession,  2.18  feet;  total 
recession  from  1842  to  1890,  104^2  feet. 
Total  area  of  recession  for  the  same  48 
years,  6^  acres. 
The  American  Fall. 

Height,  167  feet.  Contour,  in  1890,  1,060 
feet;  in  1842,  1080  feet.  Average  annual 
recession,  7^  inches;  total  recession  from 
1842  to  1890,  30^4  feet.  Total  area  of  re- 
cession for  same  period,  J4  acre. 
The  New  York  State  Reservation. 

Area,  107  acres.  Purchased  by  the  State  of 
New  York,  under  Acts  of  April  30,  1883, 
and  April  30,  1885,  for  $1,433,429.50; 
formally  opened  to  the  public  July  15, 

1885. 

The  Queen  Victoria  Niagara  Falls  Park. 

Area,  154  acres.    Preliminary  Act  of  Legis- 
lature passed  1885.     Park  opened  to  the 
public,  May  24,  1888. 
Goat  Island. 

Area,  about  63  acres;  in  early  records  said 
55 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

to  have  contained  250  acres.  (Gull  Isl- 
and, south  of  Goat  Island,  is  said  to  have 
contained  two  acres  of  land  in  1840. 
There  is  hardly  a  trace  of  it  now.)  Cir- 
cumference of  island,  about  one  mile. 
First  bridge  built,  1817;  another  bridge, 
1856;  present  bridge,  1900-1901. 

Bridges  to  Three  Sister  Islands  built  1868. 

The  price  paid  by  the  State  of  New  York 
for  Goat  Island  and  all  the  surrounding 
islands  except  a  part  of  Bath  Island,  was 
$525,000.00. 

Suspension  Bridge. 

Height  of  floor  above  river,  190  feet;  height 
of  towers,  100  feet;  length  of  span,  1,268 
feet.  First  built,  1868-69;  blown  down 
and  rebuilt,  1889. 

Steamers  Maid  of  the  Mist. 

First  boat  built  and  run,  1846.  Larger  boat 
built,  1854.  Ran  the  Whirlpool  and 
Rapids  to  Lewiston,  to  escape  the  sheriff, 
1861.  First  of  present  boats  launched, 
1885,  71  feet  long;  second  launched,  1892, 
85  feet  long. 


56 


WHAT  TO   SEE. 


CHARGES. 

Within  New  York  State  Reservation. 

Inclined  Railway,  Prospect  Park.      Either 

way,  5  cents.     Stairs  free. 
Steamers  Maid  of  the  Mist,  with  rubber 

coat,  50  cents. 

Cave  of  the  Winds,  guide  and  dress,  $1.00. 
Within  Canadian  Reservation. 

Behind   Horseshoe  Falls,  with  guide  and 

dress,  50  cents. 
Dufferin  Islands,  50  cents  for  carriage  and 

all  occupants,  10  cents  for  pedestrian. 
Steel  Arch  Bridges. 

Upper  bridge,  over  and  back,  15  cents;  one 
way,  10  cents.     Lower  bridge,  two  miles 
below,  over  and  back,  10  cents. 
Whirlpool. 

American  or  Canadian  side,  50  cents. 
Whirlpool  Rapids. 

American  or  Canadian  side,  with  elevator, 

50  cents. 

Brock's  Monument,  185  feet  high;  built,  1853. 
A  former  monument,  126  feet  high,  built 
in  1826,  was  destroyed  by  explosion  in 

57 


THE   NIAGARA   BOOK. 

1840.     General  Brock  fell  in  1813.    Ad- 
mission to  top  of  monument,  50  cents. 

CARRIAGE    HIRE. 

New  York  Reservation  Omnibuses. 

Round  trip,  including  circuit  of  Goat  Island, 
with  stop-overs,  25  cents.  Shorter  trips, 
with  stop-overs,  15  cents.  Children 
under  twelve  years,  half  fare.  Children 
under  five  years,  free. 

Carriage  Rates  by  Niagara  Falls  Ordinances. 
Two  horses:  first  hour,  $2.00;  each  addi- 
tional hour,  $1.50.    One  horse :  first  hour, 
$1.50;  each  additional  hour,  $1.00. 

BELT    LINE    TROLLEY. 

From  Niagara  Falls  to  Queenston  along  the 
Canadian  bank,  returning  via  Lewiston 
and  the  Gorge,  $1.00. 

GORGE  RAILROAD. 

Round  trip,  Niagara  Falls  to  Lewiston  and 
return,  75  cents;  one  way,  50  cents. 


DRAMATIC    INCIDENTS. 

BY    ORRIN  E.  DUNLAP. 

The  numerous  strange  features  of  the 
Niagara  region  have  resulted  in  the  develop- 
ment of  many  remarkable  incidents,  all  of 
which  are  a  part  of  the  history  of  the  locality 
and  thoroughly  interesting  as  going  to  show 
how  the  human  mind,  impelled  by  unusual 
conditions,  is  led  to  attempt  deeds  of  daring 
for  dollars  and  notoriety.  For  nearly  a  cen- 
tury Niagara  has  been  rich  in  such  incidents, 
and  the  records  show  that  in  some  cases  hu- 
man life  has  been  sacrificed  in  the  general  de- 
sire for  gain,  while  in  other  cases  the  public 
has  had  opportunity  to  applaud  the  living 
heroes. 

During  the  final  twenty  years  of  the  last 
century  the  efforts  to  attain  notoriety  through 
some  Niagara  feat  were  perhaps  more  frequent 
than  ever  before,  but  as  far  back  as  1827, 
Niagara  was  recognized  as  an  ideal  place 

59 


THE   NIAGARA   BOOK. 

where  great  crowds  might  be  assembled  by 
thrilling  incidents.  About  the  first  feature 
of  this  character  was  the  sending  of 

THE    PIRATE    MICHIGAN 

over  the  Falls  on  the  afternoon  of  September 
8,  1827.  This  vessel  was  at  the  time  one  of 
the  largest  of  her  class,  but  had  been  con- 
demned by  her  owners  as  unfit  to  longer  sail 
the  lakes.  Dressed  as  a  pirate,  she  was  loaded 
with  wild  and  tame  animals,  and  with  a  crew 
in  effigy,  was  towed  to  the  foot  of  Navy  Island 
and  set  adrift.  She  was  caught  by  the  current 
and  hurled  through  the  upper  rapids  and  over 
the  Horseshoe  Fall.  It  was  never  recorded 
that  any  of  the  animals  were  recaptured  to  be 
sent  to  the  museums  in  New  York,  Montreal, 
and  London,  as  was  the  intention.  Coaches 
left  Buffalo  on  the  afternoon  of  the  7th  of 
September  to  accommodate  the  crowds,  and 
all  of  the  Niagara  hotels  were  full  of  guests. 

SAM  PATCH. 

Among  the  crowd  drawn  to  the  Falls  by  this 
incident  was  Sam  Patch,  a  man  who  had  won 
60 


DRAMATIC  INCIDENTS. 

fame  at  Pawtucket  Falls  and  other  eastern 
points  as  a  high  jumper.  He  erected  a  plat- 
form at  the  water's  edge  of  the  debris  slope 
just  north  of  the  Biddle  Stairs,  and  from  this 
platform  leaped  into  the  river,  the  height  of 
the  jump  being  about  ninety  feet.  Patch  was 
considered  a  wonder,  but  shortly  after  his 
Niagara  experience  he  lost  his  life  in  a  leap 
from  the  Genesee  Fall  in  Rochester. 

FRANCIS    ABBOTT. 

While  Francis  Abbott  never  sought  fame, 
or  even  recognition,  at  Niagara,  he  won  for 
himself  a  place  in  the  history  of  the  Falls  that 
will  stand  forever.  He  was  known  as  the 
"  Hermit  of  Niagara."  Of  brilliant  mind,  mu- 
sical, he  sought  the  sublimity  of  the  cataract  to 
live  alone  and  commune  with  Nature.  He 
lived  on  Goat  Island  and  also  in  the  section 
now  known  as  Prospect  Park.  It  was  his  cus- 
tom to  bathe  daily  in  the  river,  and  on  Friday, 
June  10,  1831,  he  was  drowned.  His  body 
was  recovered  June  21,  1831,  and  is  buried  in 
Oakwood  Cemetery  at  the  Falls. 


61 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

DISCOVERY    OF    THE    CAVE    OF    THE    WINDS. 

There  is  no  doubt  but  what  the  discovery  of 
the  Cave  of  the  Winds  marked  a  new  era  in  the 
enjoyment  of  visitors  to  Niagara.  The  day  of 
the  discovery  of  this  wonderful  cave  was  July 
15,  1834.  H.  A.  Parsons  had  made  heroic 
efforts  to  reach  the  cave  by  passing  through 
the  stream  from  the  Centre  Fall,  when  B.  H. 
White  and  G.  W.  Sims  succeeded  in  crossing 
the  water  and  rocks  and  entered  the  cave,  and 
to  them  is  due  the  credit  for  the  discovery. 
When  first  entered,  the  cave  was  the  home  of 
many  eels. 

BURNING    OF    THE    CAROLINE. 

At  the  close  of  1837  Canada  was  aflame  with 
the  Patriot  war.  The  headquarters  of  the 
Patriots  was  on  Navy  Island,  a  short  distance 
above  the  Falls.  On  the  Canadian  shore,  about 
Chippewa  Creek,  the  British  were  gathered. 
The  steamer  Caroline  was  in  service  on  the 
upper  river,  and  had  made  two  trips  from  the 
New  York  shore  to  Navy  Island.  The  British, 
feeling  the  boat  was  carrying  supplies  to  the 
62 


DRAMATIC  INCIDENTS. 

Patriots,  organized  a  volunteer  expedition, 
and  at  midnight  on  December  29,  1837, 
crossed  the  river  to  Schlosser  Dock,  where  the 
Caroline  was  moored  for  the  night,  and  cut  her 
ropes,  setting  her  adrift  on  the  current.  She 
was  also  set  on  fire,  and  all  ablaze,  she  was 
carried  down  the  river  towards  the  Falls. 

WHEN    NIAGARA    RAN    DRY. 

The  winter  of  1847-48  was  of  extraordinary 
severity.  Very  heavy  ice  formed  in  Lake  Erie. 
During  the  latter  part  of  March  this  ice  field 
was  broken  by  a  thaw  and  wind.  The  wind 
swept  the  ice  into  the  entrance  of  the  Niagara 
River  at  Buffalo,  where  it  jammed  in  a  solid 
mass,  completely  choking  the  outlet  of  Lake 
Erie,  the  result  being  that  on  March  29,  1848, 
the  Falls  of  Niagara  was  practically  dry.  The 
spectacle  was  weird  in  the  extreme,  and  lasted 
throughout  the  day,  the  scene  being  one  of 
desolation. 

FALL    OF    TABLE    ROCK. 

This  incident  is  usually  referred  to  as  having 
occurred  on  June  26,  1850,  when  a  piece  200 
63 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

by  260  feet  fell  with  a  terrible  crash.  This  un- 
doubtedly was  the  passing  of  the  Table  Rock 
known  to  the  majority  of  Niagara  visitors,  but 
the  fact  is  that,  in  July,  1818,  a  big  piece  of  the 
rock  fell,  while  in  December,  1828,  and  in  1829 
other  pieces  of  the  rock  gave  way. 

TRIP    OF    THE    MAID    OF    THE    MIST. 

One  of  the  most  daring  feats  ever  performed 
at  Niagara  was  that  of  Joel  Robinson  and  his 
two  associates,  Maclntyre  and  Jones,  on  June 
6, 1 86 1,  when  they  voyaged  through  the  Whirl- 
pool Rapids  in  the  steamer  Maid  of  the  Mist. 
The  boat  was  libelled  and  mortgaged  to  such 
an  extent  that  the  waters  of  the  Niagara  were 
too  warm  for  her,  and  Robinson  agreed  to  de- 
liver her  at  a  Canadian  lake  port.  On  the 
afternoon  of  the  day  mentioned,  to  the  surprise 
of  all  who  saw  the  boat,  instead  of  heading 
over  her  usual  course  up  the  river,  her  bow 
was  directed  right  into  the  rapids,  with  the 
waves  of  which  she  was  soon  battling.  It  was 
the  first  trip  of  the  kind  ever  made,  but  under 
a  full  head  of  steam  she  made  the  trip  in  safety, 
the  stack  being  swept  away  in  the  seething 
64 


DRAMATIC  INCIDENTS. 

waters.      Robinson  was  born  in  Springfield, 
Mass.     He  died  in  1863. 

CAPTAIN  WEBB'S  FATAL  SWIM. 

With  the  advent  of  Capt.  Matthew  Webb 
to  Niagara,  a  new  impetus  was  given  to  navi- 
gation of  the  Whirlpool  Rapids.  Captain 
Webb  had  won  fame  and  glory  in  European 
waters,  and  he  sought  to  add  to  his  laurels 
by  swimming  the  Niagara  rapids  unprotected 
by  any  life-saving  device.  The  date  of  his  fatal 
trip  was  July  24,  1883.  Right  on  time,  he  left 
his  hotel,  the  Clifton  House,  since  destroyed 
by  fire,  at  four  o'clock.  Entering  a  small  boat, 
with  Jack  McCloy  at  the  oars,  he  was  carried 
to  a  point  on  the  lower  river  several  hundred 
feet  above  the  lower  bridges.  It  was  4.25  P.M. 
when  he  leaped  from  the  boat  into  the  water, 
and  with  nothing  on  but  a  pair  of  red  trunks, 
swam  boldly  towards  the  rapids.  On  the 
banks  and  bridges  thousands  of  people  were 
gathered,  for  the  event  had  been  well  heralded. 
At  4.32  P.M.  he  passed  under  the  bridges.  His 
stroke  was  beautiful.  In  three  minutes  more 
he  had  reached  the  fiercest  part  of  the  rapids. 
A  great  wave  struck  him.  He  disappeared  from 

5  65 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

sight  of  all.  Thousands  of  eyes  watched  the 
boiling  waters,  praying  that  his  life  might  be 
spared.  Four  days  went  by,  and  some  said 
Webb  was  in  hiding  so  that  advantageous  bets 
might  be  made  by  his  friends  in  England,  but 
at  midday  July  28,  1883,  his  lifeless  body  was 
picked  up  seven  miles  down  the  river.  It  now 
occupies  a  grave  beside  that  of  the  "  Hermit 
of  Niagara  "  in  Oakwood  Cemetery. 

CARLISLE    D.    GRAHAM'S    WONDERFUL    TRIPS. 

If  any  man  deserves  the  title  of  "  Hero  of  the 
Whirlpool  Rapids  "  it  is  Carlisle  D.  Graham, 
a  Philadelphia  cooper,  who,  despite  Webb's 
death,  travelled  to  Niagara  determined  to 
show  the  world  that  he  had  confidence  that  he 
could  go  through  the  rapids  and  live,  as  well 
as  being  willing  to  risk  his  life  in  a  barrel  of  his 
own  construction.  Graham  made  his  first  trip 
on  the  afternoon  of  Sunday,  July  n,  1886, 
going  way  to  Lewiston,  the  trip  occupying 
about  thirty-five  minutes.  Graham  rode  in  a 
barrel  weighted  at  the  bottom.  The  height  of 
the  barrel  was  so  that  he  could  nearly  stand 
upright  in  it,  and  the  top  was  of  larger  diam- 
eter than  the  bottom.  On  Thursday,  August 
66 


DRAMATIC  INCIDENTS. 

19,  1886,  Graham  made  a  second  trip,  going 
as  far  as  the  Whirlpool.  In  this  trip  his  head 
protruded  through  the  top  of  the  barrel 
throughout  the  entire  trip.  He  made  a  third 
trip  June  15,  1887,  and  on  August  25,  1889, 
he  made  a  fourth  trip,  using  a  barrel  of  much 
smaller  size  and  going  way  through  to  Lewis- 
ton.  Graham  will  be  remembered  as  never 
having  disappointed  a  gathering.  His  nerve 
never  failed  him. 

HAZLETT    AND    POTTS. 

Copying  somewhat  the  idea  that  Graham 
had  developed  so  successfully,  George  Hazlett 
and  William  Potts,  of  Buffalo,  made  a  trip 
through  the  rapids  in  a  barrel,  said  to  be  of 
their  own  construction,  on  Sunday,  August  8, 
1886.  The  barrel  they  used  more  closely  re- 
sembled the  familiar  type  of  barrel,  having  no 
unusual  features  of  form. 

W.    J.    KENDALL. 

Two  weeks  after  Hazlett  and  Potts  had 

made  the  trip  there  appeared  at  Niagara  a 

Boston  policeman  named  W.  J.  Kendall.    The 

date  was  August  22,   1886.      Unannounced, 

67 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

Kendall  went  through  the  rapids  to  the  Whirl- 
pool, protected  by  only  a  cork  life-preserver. 
All  previous  trips  had  been  publicly  an- 
nounced, but  Kendall  slipped  through  with 
only  a  few  spectators,  accidentally  on  the  cliffs 
or  bridges,  to  bear  witness.  For  this  reason 
some  have  felt  that  the  trip  was  never  made, 
but  men  of  integrity  are  known  who  witnessed 
the  performance. 

GEORGE    HAZLETT    AND    SADIE    ALLEN. 

In  the  same  barrel  that  was  used  by  Hazlett 
and  Potts,  Miss  Sadie  Allen  and  George  Haz- 
lett made  a  trip  through  the  rapids  on  Novem- 
ber 28,  1886.  Miss  Allen  is  the  only  woman 
who  has  ever  made  this  journey  through  the 
Niagara  gorge,  and  this  trip,  it  may  be  re- 
marked, ended  the  barrel  voyages. 

CHARLES   ALEXANDER    PERCY. 

Next  to  appear  on  the  scene  to  win  fame 
through  the  rapids  voyage  was  Charles  Alex- 
ander Percy,  of  Niagara  Falls.  Percy  had 
watched  the  others  journey  through  the  wild 
waters,  and,  being  a  wagonmaker,  he  con- 
ceived the  idea  of  building  a  boat  which  possi- 
68 


DRAMATIC  INCIDENTS. 

bly  might  have  value  as  a  life-boat.  The  craft 
he  built  was  seventeen  feet  long,  four  feet  ten 
inches  beam,  with  air  chambers  at  either  end. 
In  this  boat  Percy  made  a  fine  trip  through 
the  rapids  to  the  Whirlpool  on  Sunday,  August 
28,  1887.  During  the  passage  of  the  rapids 
he  occupied  one  of  the  air  chambers.  The 
boat  remained  at  anchor  on  the  Canadian  side 
of  the  Whirlpool  for  a  month  following  Percy's 
trip  through  the  rapids,  and  on  Sunday,  Sep- 
tember 25,  1887,  Percy  and  a  friend,  William 
Dittrick,  made  the  trip  through  the  lower  half 
of  the  gorge  from  the  Whirlpool  to  Lewiston, 
having  a  thrilling  experience.  In  this  trip 
Dittrick  occupied  one  of  the  air  compart- 
ments, while  Percy  sat  in  the  cockpit. 

On  September  16,  1888,  Percy  made  a 
second  trip  through  the  waters  of  the  gorge  to 
Lewiston.  In  this  trip  he  narrowly  escaped 
death,  his  boat  being  lost. 

ROBERT    WILLIAM    FLACK. 

The  success  Percy  had  in  navigating  the 
waters  of  the  gorge  in  his  boat  led  Robert 
William  Flack,  of  Syracuse,  to  travel  to  Niag- 
ara to  demonstrate  the  merits  of  a  boat  he  had 
69 


THE   NIAGARA   BOOK. 

built.  Percy  and  Flack  signed  articles  of 
agreement  for  a  race  through  the  rapids,  but 
Flack  was  first  to  show  that  his  craft  was  sea- 
worthy. On  the  afternoon  of  July  4,  1888, 
Flack  made  this  trip,  and  he  went  down  to 
death.  Flack's  boat  was  of  clinker  pattern. 
In  the  trip  through  the  rapids  it  capsized  three 
times,  but  Flack  remained  in  the  boat  because 
he  was  held  there  by  a  harness  rigging  about 
his  body.  It  was  a  frightful  spectacle,  this 
trip  of  Flack's,  and  was  witnessed  by  thousands 
of  people.  The  last  time  the  boat  capsized  was 
on  the  final  big  wave  at  the  entrance  to  the 
Whirlpool.  High  in  the  air  the  boat  tossed. 
It  stood  on  end  for  an  instant,  and  then  it  top- 
pled over  on  poor  Flack.  From  the  point 
where  the  boat  capsized  it  floated  about  the 
pool  upside  down  for  an  hour  or  more  until 
captured  on  the  Canadian  side.  Flack  was 
found  hanging  dead  by  the  straps  he  had 
placed  there  to  aid  him  to  save  his  life. 

WALTER    G.    CAMPBELL. 

This  would-be  hero  selected  Sunday,  Sep- 
tember 15,  1889,  for  making  the  trip  through 
the  rapids.     With  a  life-preserver  about  his 
70 


SPELTKRINA. 


BLONDIN. 


(From  photographs  taken  at  the  tinwi)'  Jjj  '     V 


DRAMATIC  INCIDENTS. 

body  he  rode  in  an  open  boat  until  it  capsized, 
when  he  was  thrown  out  and  forced  to  battle 
with  the  waves.  He  landed  in  the  Whirlpool 
twenty  minutes  after  he  started.  A  dog  he 
carried  with  him  in  the  boat  was  lost. 

JOHN    LINCOLN    SOULES. 

On  July  4,  1890,  John  Lincoln  Soules  made 
an  attempt  to  swim  through  the  rapids,  but  in 
starting  he  kept  too  close  to  the  Canadian 
bank  and  was  thrown  ashore  at  the  elevator 
just  below  the  bridges  on  the  Canadian  side, 
badly  cutting  one  of  his  knees  on  a  rock  in 
landing. 

PETER    NISSEN'S    FEAT. 

For  ten  years  there  was  a  rest  from  the 
rapids  agitation,  and  nothing  notable  occurred 
in  those  waters  until  July  9,  1900,  when  Peter 
Nissen,  also  known  as  "  Bowser,"  appeared  at 
the  Falls  and  announced  his  intention  of  going 
through  the  rapids.  Nissen  is  a  bookkeeper, 
and  the  boat  in  which  he  made  the  trip  was 
built  after  his  own  ideas.  In  length  the  boat 
was  twenty  feet.  It  had  a  beam  of  six  feet  and 
a  depth  of  four  feet.  It  was  decked  over,  with 
71 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

the  exception  of  a  small  cockpit  in  the  centre. 
There  were  two  air  compartments  in  the  front 
and  rear,  and  one  on  each  side  of  the  cockpit. 
To  the  keel  of  the  boat  proper  hung  an  iron 
keel  weighing  1,250  pounds.  It  was  after  four 
o'clock  when  Nissen  and  his  boat  came  out  of 
an  eddy  in  tow  of  a  rowboat.  After  being  set 
adrift,  he  got  caught  in  an  eddy  just  above  the 
rapids  and  had  to  be  started  again.  It  was 
approaching  five  o'clock  before  he  was  in  the 
rapids.  His  craft  rode  the  waves  magnifi- 
cently. It  was  a  glorious  sight,  quite  in  con- 
trast with  the  spectacle  presented  by  Flack  and 
his  light  craft.  Never  once  did  Nissen's  boat 
capsize,  for  all  it  was  wave-washed  frequently. 
After  reaching  the  Whirlpool,  Nissen  and  his 
boat  floated  about  until  captured,  when  Nissen 
landed.  The  following  day  his  boat  was  sent 
out  of  the  pool  to  float  to  Lewiston,  where  it 
was  taken  from  the  water.  Nissen's  feat  was 
indeed  a  grand  sight.  His  home  is  in  Chicago. 

M.    BLONDIN. 

Of  all  the  men  who  have  won  fame  at  Niag- 
ara none  was  more  lasting  than  that  of  Blon- 
din,  who,  on  Thursday,  May  30,  1859,  first 
72 


DRAMATIC   INCIDENTS. 

crossed  the  Niagara  gorge  on  a  tight  rope. 
His  cable  was  stretched  over  the  river  at  a 
point  now  midway  between  the  upper  and 
lower  bridges.  He  made  frequent  trips  there- 
after, and  on  August  14,  1859,  he  carried 
Harry  M.  Colcord  across  the  cable  on  his  back. 
Blondin  also  crossed  the  gorge  in  1860,  in 
which  year  his  cable  was  stretched  over  the 
Whirlpool  Rapids  below  the  old  railway  sus- 
pension bridge,  since  replaced  by  a  steel  arch. 
He  walked  with  baskets  on  his  feet,  performed 
on  stilts,  cooked  his  meals  on  the  rope.  On 
September  8,  1860,  Blondin  walked  for  the 
Prince  of  Wales,  now  King  of  England,  and 
on  this  occasion  he  also  carried  Colcord  on 
his  back. 

SIGNOR   FARINI. 

While  Blondin  was  commanding  much  at- 
tention by  his  performances  in  1860,  Signor 
Farini  appeared  at  the  Falls  and  stretched  a 
cable  across  the  gorge  near  the  hydraulic  canal 
basin.  He  was  very  expert  on  the  rope  and 
commanded  much  attention,  but  Blondin's 
fame  has  lived,  while  Farini  has  been  forgotten. 

73 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 
SIGNOR    BALLENI. 

In  1873  Signer  Balleni  stretched  a  cable 
from  a  point  opposite  the  old  Clifton  House 
to  Prospect  Park.  One  of  his  feats  was  to 
leap  into  the  river,  aided  in  his  descent  by  a 
rubber  cord. 

MARIA    SPELTERINA. 

It  was  in  July,  1876,  that  Maria  Spelterina 
crossed  the  gorge  on  a  tight  rope.  She  is  the 
only  woman  who  has  ventured  this  feat,  and  in 
all  her  performances  she  was  watched  by  great 
crowds.  Her  rope  was  stretched  over  the 
rapids  where  Blondin  last  walked.  She  won 
great  favor. 

JENKINS   AND    HIS   VELOCIPEDE. 

Still  another  who  performed  on  a  tight  rope 
at  the  Falls  was  a  man  named  Jenkins,  who 
stretched  his  cable  across  the  gorge  over  the 
rapids.  One  of  his  principal  feats  was  to  cross 
from  cliff  to  cliff  on  a  machine  that  resembled 
a  velocipede,  his  balance  pole  being  held  by 
an  arrangement  under  his  feet. 
74 


DRAMATIC  INCIDENTS. 


STEVE    PEERE. 

On  June  22,  1887,  Steve  Peere,  a  painter, 
walked  across  the  gorge  on  a  wire  cable  six- 
eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  stretched  be- 
tween the  old  suspension  bridge  and  the  canti- 
lever bridge.  His  was  indeed  a  wonderful 
performance,  considering  all  the  others  had 
used  a  rope  two  inches  in  diameter.  On  June 
25,  1887,  Peere  was  found  dead  on  the  bank 
beneath  his  rope,  the  supposition  being  that  he 
had  attempted  to  walk  it  at  night. 


SAMUEL  JOHN    DIXON. 

While  Samuel  John  Dixon,  a  Toronto,  Ont, 
photographer,  was  on  his  way  to  the  photog- 
raphers' annual  convention,  he  observed 
Peere's  cable  still  stretched  across  the  Niagara 
gorge.  He  remarked  that  he  could  cross  on 
it,  and  true  to  his  word  he  returned  to  the  Falls 
and  made  a  trip  over  the  slender  cable  on 
Saturday,  September  6,  1890.  He  performed 
several  gymnastic  feats  in  the  centre,  and  won 
much  applause. 

75 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 
CLIFFORD    M.    CALVERLEY. 

Clifford  M.  Calverley,  of  Toronto,  erected 
a  wire  cable  at  the  same  point  between  the 
bridges  where  Peere  and  Dixon  had  crossed, 
and  on  Wednesday,  October  12,  1892,  he  gave 
his  first  public  exhibition  at  Niagara.  He  was 
indeed  clever,  and  won  for  himself  the  title  of 
the  "  American  Blondin."  On  Saturday,  July 
i,  1893,  Calverley  opened  another  series  of  ex- 
hibitions at  the  Falls,  performing  numerous 
feats,  such  as  high  kicking,  walking  with 
baskets  on  his  feet,  cooking  meals  on  the  rope, 
and  chair  balancing.  He  also  gave  night  ex- 
hibitions. 

AVERY    ON    THE    LOG. 

Of  all  the  incidents  connected  with  Niagara 
none  is  more  thrilling  than  the  efforts  made  to 
rescue  Avery  from  a  log  in  the  rapids,  a  short 
distance  above  the  American  Fall,  on  July  19, 
1853.  The  night  before,  Avery  and  a  compan- 
ion had  been  swept  down  the  river  in  a  boat. 
Avery  landed  on  a  log,  but  his  companion  was 
carried  over  the  Fall.  All  day  long  mighty 
efforts  were  made  to  save  Avery.  Boats,  rafts, 
and  barrels  were  let  down  to  him  from  the 

76 


DRAMATIC  INCIDENTS. 

Goat  Island  bridge,  and  towards  evening,  just 
when  a  rescue  appeared  certain,  the  very  boat 
that  was  designed  to  carry  him  to  safety 
struck  him  full  in  the  breast  and  knocked  him 
into  the  river,  and  he  was  hurled  over  the  Fall. 
to  the  horror  of  the  assembled  thousands. 

A    SAD    INCIDENT. 

To  pretty  Luna  Island  must  be  accredited 
what  is  perhaps  the  most  sorrowful  incident  in 
the  history  of  Niagara.  On  June  21,  1849, 
while  the  family  of  Mr.  Deforest,  of  Buffalo,  in 
company  with  a  friend,  Charles  Addington, 
were  viewing  the  American  Fall  from  this 
island,  Mr.  Addington  playfully  picked  up  An- 
nette Deforest  and  held  her  over  the  rapid 
rushing  water.  The  child,  in  the  excitement, 
sprang  out  of  Mr.  Addington's  arms  into  the 
water.  In  a  second  she  was  dashed  over  the 
precipice.  As  she  struck  the  water  Mr.  Ad- 
dington leaped  after  her,  and  he  also  was  swept 
to  death  over  the  precipice. 

UNCONQUERED    NIAGARA. 

Despite  all  that  has  been  claimed  by  certain 
fakirs,  let  it  be  known  that  up  to  the  opening 

77 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

of  the  twentieth  century  no  human  being  has 
ever  gone  over  the  Falls  of  Niagara  and  lived 
to  tell  the  story  of  the  experience. 

DUMMY    MAID    OF    THE    MIST. 

In  September,  1883,  several  enterprising 
citizens  of  Niagara  Falls  purchased  a  small 
boat,  which  they  fitted  up  to  represent  the 
Maid  of  the  Mist,  and  sent  it  through  the 
rapids.  Men  were  stationed  about  the  boat  in 
effigy,  but  no  human  beings  were  allowed 
aboard  during  the  trip,  for  all  there  were  ap- 
plications for  passage.  The  boat  passed 
through  the  gorge  in  good  shape. 

NEW    YORK    STATE    RESERVATION. 

On  the  1 5th  day  of  July,  1885,  the  lands  in 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  Falls  were 
thrown  open  free  to  all  mankind  forever,  New 
York  State  having  acquired  the  property  from 
the  individual  owners  on  payment  of  $1,433,- 
429.50. 

VICTORIA    PARK. 

On  the  24th  of  May,  1888,  the  sixty-ninth 
anniversary  of  Her  Most  Gracious  Majesty, 
the  late  Queen  Victoria,  the  lands  on  the  Cana- 

78 


DRAMATIC  INCIDENTS. 

dian  side  were  opened  free  to  the  public.     On 
June  21,  1888,  the  event  was  celebrated. 

DEATH    ON   THE    ICE    MOUNTAIN. 

On  February  28,  1886,  while  L.  G.  De  Witt, 
of  New  York,  was  viewing  the  winter  scenery, 
he  slipped  from  the  ice  mound  towards  the 
American  Fall.  On  March  n,  following,  his 
body  was  seen  on  the  ice  at  the  foot  of  the  Fall. 
On  March  I2th  dynamite  was  used  to  blast  the 
ice  in  order  that  the  body  might  be  recovered. 
March  I3th  a  tunnel  through  the  great  ice 
mountain  was  begun,  and  after  three  days  of 
hard  work  the  body  was  secured. 

RESCUED    FROM    A    ROCK. 

While  engaged  in  painting  the  bridge  that 
leads  to  the  Second  Sister  Island,  in  1874,  Wil- 
liam McCullough  fell  into  the  river.  In  his 
passage  down  stream  he  caught  on  a  rock, 
from  which  he  was  rescued  by  Thomas  Con- 
roy,  then  a  well-known  guide. 

RESCUE    OF    CHAPIN. 

In  1838,  while  one  of  the  bridges  leading 
from  the  mainland  to  Goat  Island  was  being 

79 


TEE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

repaired,  a  Mr.  Chapin  fell  from  the  work  into 
the  water.  He  was  fortunate  enough  to  land 
on  one  of  the  small  islands,  from  which  point 
he  was  rescued  by  Joel  Robinson  by  means  of 
a  small  boat.  The  island  is  known  as  Chapin 
Island. 

TAYLOR  ISLAND  DOGS. 

Before  the  construction  of  the  Gorge  Road, 
a  fall  of  rock  on  the  New  York  side  of  the 
Whirlpool  Rapids  was  known  as  Taylor's  Isl- 
and. Two  dogs  that  had  been  thrown  off 
the  lower  bridge  landed  here.  They  attracted 
much  attention.  Food  was  thrown  to  them 
daily.  On  August  u,  1881,  James  F.  Brown 
descended  the  cliff  and  rescued  them. 

TRIP   OF  THE   DETROIT. 

In  1841  the  Detroit,  a  vessel  of  about  500 
tons  burden,  was  started  down  the  river,  the 
intention  being  to  send  her  over  the  Falls. 
She  lodged  on  a  reef,  and  afterwards  went  to 
pieces.  The  Detroit  is  said  to  have  been  one 
of  Commodore  Perry's  fleet. 


80 


DRAMATIC   INCIDENTS. 
BIDDLE    STAIRS. 

The  Biddle  Stairs  are  on  Goat  Island  and 
lead  to  the  Cave  of  the  Winds.  They  are 
named  after  Nicholas  Biddle,  of  Philadelphia, 
who  gave  a  sum  of  money  towards  their  con- 
struction in  1829.  There  is  a  desire  to  replace 
them  with  an  elevator. 

OLD    TERRAPIN    TOWER. 

This  structure  was  erected  at  Terrapin 
Point,  on  the  edge  of  the  Horseshoe  Fall,  in 
1833,  the  stone  being  gathered  in  the  vicin- 
ity. It  was  45  feet  high,  12  feet  in  diameter  at 
the  base,  and  8  feet  at  the  top.  It  was  believed 
to  be  unsafe,  and  was  torn  down  in  1873. 
There  is  talk  of  rebuilding  it. 

SUSPENSION    BRIDGE    DESTROYED. 

On  the  night  of  January  9-10,  1889,  a  ter- 
rific gale  swept  down  the  Niagara  gorge  from 
the  southwest.  It  caught  the  upper  suspen- 
sion bridge  full  on  the  side.  Stays  gave  way, 
and  soon  the  great  structure  was  swinging  at 
the  mercy  of  the  gale.  About  3  A.M.  it  fell 
into  the  gorge,  a  complete  wreck.  Dr.  John 

6  81 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

Hodge  was  the  last  man  to  cross  it  before  it 
fell. 

WRECK    OF    LEWISTON    BRIDGE. 

There  was  a  vast  amount  of  ice  passing 
down  the  Niagara  River  in  the  winter  of  1863- 
1864,  and  the  men  in  charge  of  the  old  Lewis- 
ton  suspension  bridge  unfastened  the  guys, 
thinking  the  ice  might  carry  them  away.  After 
the  ice-floe  had  passed  they  forgot  to  refasten 
them,  and  a  high  wind  wrecked  the  bridge  on 
February  i,  1864.  It  was  not  rebuilt  until 
1899. 

THRILLING    RESCUES. 

John  McCloy  is  the  owner  of  a  medal  for 
several  daring  rescues  at  Niagara.  On  Octo- 
ber 6,  1886,  he  rescued  Charles  Robinson  from 
the  remnant  of  a  pier  in  the  rapids  above 
Bath  (now  Green)  Island.  This  feat  was  per- 
formed at  night  by  the  light  of  bonfires.  On 
November  15,  1887,  he  rescued  William  Glass- 
brook  from  the  rocks  at  the  foot  of  the  Horse- 
shoe Fall.  Glassbrook  was  out  duck  hunting 
and  had  lost  his  boat.  "  Thank  God !  I'm  saved 
at  last,"  were  the  first  words  Louis  Hoehn  ut- 
tered after  McCloy  had  rescued  him  from  a 
82 


DRAMATIC   INCIDENTS. 

ledge  of  rock  in  the  river,  a  third  of  the  dis- 
tance between  Goat  and  Bird  Islands,  on  Mon- 
day, May  9,  1898. 

GOAT    ISLAND. 

This  beautiful  spot  is  so  named  because 
John  Stedman  placed  thereon  a  number  of  ani- 
mals, among  them  a  male  goat.  This  was 
about  130  years  ago.  It  was  the  intention  to 
have  the  animals  winter  there,  but  when  spring 
came  none  but  the  goat  was  found  alive,  and  to 
this  incident  is  attributed  the  naming  of  the 
island. 

SEARCHLIGHT    ILLUMINATION. 

One  of  the  new  features  at  Niagara  during 
the  summer  months  is  the  nightly  illumination 
of  the  Whirlpool  Rapids  by  searchlight  oper- 
ated on  the  Niagara  Gorge  Railroad.  The 
spectacle  is  unusual  and  brilliant.  At  times 
the  illumination  is  effected  by  means  of  power- 
ful arc  lamps  at  the  old  Buttery  elevator,  and 
at  other  periods  of  the  display  both  the  shore 
lights  and  the  searchlight  are  in  operation.  A 
divergent  door  placed  before  the  searchlight 
serves  to  cast  the  beam  from  bank  to  bank, 
while  color  discs  give  various  hues  to  the  light 
83 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

and  the  water.  At  times  red  fire  is  burned  in 
quantities,  and  the  cliffs  and  the  wild  waters 
are  aflame.  Under  this  light  the  Whirlpool 
Rapids  become  a  raging  torrent  of  crimson. 

EARLY    CROSSING    OF   THE    GORGE. 

When  the  railway  suspension  bridge,  re- 
cently supplanted  by  an  arch,  was  projected, 
connection  was  made  between  the  cliffs  by  a 
kite  string.  This  served  to  draw  a  heavier 
cord,  and  later  wire  cables,  over  the  river,  and 
on  the  cables  so  placed  an  iron  basket  was 
operated  from  cliff  to  cliff.  Although  it  was 
designed  to  aid  in  the  construction  of  the 
bridge,  thousands  of  passengers  were  carried. 
This  basket  is  now  in  possession  of  the  Buffalo 
Historical  Society. 

OLD    FERRYBOAT    SERVICE. 

From  the  foot  of  what  is  now  the  inclined 
railway  in  Prospect  Park,  a  ferryboat  service 
was  for  many  years  operated  between  the 
banks.  The  boats  were  small  but  staunch,  and 
manned  by  strong  oarsmen.  Until  1868  there 
was  no  bridge  crossing  the  river  close  to  the 
84 


Copyright,  1900,  by  Orrin  E.  Dunlap. 
SEARCHLIGHT    IN   THE    GORGE. 


DRAMATIC  INCIDENTS. 

Falls,  and  the  ferryboats  were  largely  patron- 
ized. The  trip  was  full  of  interest,  for  from 
the  ferryboats  views  of  the  Falls  were  obtain1 
able  from  midstream.  The  steamer  Maid  of 
the  Mist  has  now  taken  the  place  of  the  smaller 
craft. 

A   THRILLING   EXPERIENCE. 

On  Sunday  afternoon,  January  22,  1899, 
while  about  fifty  people  were  crossing  on  the 
ice  bridge,  the  ice  commenced  to  move  down 
stream  on  the  current.  Immediately  there 
was  a  wild  rush  for  the  shores.  One  young 
man  saved  himself  by  leaping  from  the  ice  onto 
the  steel  arch  near  the  American  shore,  but  a 
man  and  woman,  who  gave  the  names  of  C.  E. 
Misner  and  Miss  Bessie  Hall,  were  carried 
several  hundred  feet  down  stream  before  they 
reached  the  bank  of  the  river. 

ICE  PALACE. 

In  1898  several  residents  of  Niagara  Falls 
erected  an  ice  palace  on  the  Riverway  opposite 
Prospect  Park.  The  weather  was  very  un- 
favorable for  the  venture,  and  it  proved  a 
financial  failure. 

85 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 
CROSSING  THE  ICE  BRIDGE  ON  HORSEBACK. 

On  Thursday  and  Friday,  January  23  and 
24,  1879,  Andrew  Wallace,  a  resident  of  Can- 
ada, rode  a  horse  across  the  ice  bridge  and  up 
the  ice  mountain.  Robert  Owen,  of  Niagara 
Falls,  has  also  performed  this  feat. 

WATER  BICYCLE  TRIP. 

On  Sunday,  August  14,  1887,  Prof.  Al- 
phonse  King  crossed  the  river  below  the  Falls 
and  bridge  on  a  water  bicycle.  The  wheel 
with  paddles  was  erected  between  two  water- 
tight cylinders,  8  inches  in  diameter  and  10 
feet  long. 

ROMANTIC  MARRIAGES. 

Tuesday,  July  28,  1891,  in  the  evening,  just 
as  the  sun  was  sinking  in  the  west,  Judge 
Edward  E.  Russell  married  Henry  Bird  and 
Miss  Carrie  Scudder,  of  Newark,  N.  J.,  on  the 
upper  suspension  bridge.  On  another  occa- 
sion Judge  Russell  married  a  romantic  couple 
at  the  entrance  to  the  Cave  of  the  Winds,  right 
in  the  spray  cloud. 

86 


DRAMATIC   INCIDENTS. 
RESCUE  OF  MRS.   GRIMASON. 

While  crossing  the  old  upper  suspension 
bridge  on  Saturday,  September  24,  1892,  Mrs. 
Grimason,  of  Toronto,  Ont,  fell  through  a 
hole.  She  caught  on  the  bottom  chord,  from 
which  perilous  position  she  was  rescued  by 
Harry  Williams,  Harry  Huntley,  and  Rev.  Dr. 
Ramsay.  Williams  received  a  medal  from  the 
Royal  Canadian  Humane  Society. 

AUTOMOBILE  ACROSS   ICE   BRIDGE. 

Wednesday,  February  27,  1901,  an  auto- 
mobile was  taken  down  the  bank  on  the  Cana- 
dian side  and  dragged  across  the  ice  bridge. 
It  was  pulled  up  the  slope  leading  to  the  ice 
mountain,  where  photographs  were  taken  for 
advertising  purposes. 

SLID   DOWN   A   ROPE. 

Monday,  August  15,  1887,  Prof.  J.  E.  De- 
Leon,  who  aspired  to  be  Peere's  successor, 
started  out  to  cross  his  cable.  After  going  a 
short  distance  he  slid  down  a  rope  and  dis- 
appeared in  the  bushes,  ascending  the  bank  by 
a  ladder. 

87 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 
THE  CRANDALL  CASE. 

Niagara  records  do  not  contain  a  more  re- 
markable incident  than  that  concerning  Bry- 
ant B.  Crandall,  a  Buffalo  man  who  left  his 
home  on  the  last  day  of  May,  1886,  and  on  the 
following  day  wrote  letters  intimating  an  in- 
tention to  commit  suicide.  April  3d  a  hat 
bearing  his  name  was  found  on  the  river  bank. 
July  28th  a  body  found  near  Queenston  was 
identified  as  that  of  Crandall  and  interred  in 
the  family  plot,  Buffalo.  His  insurance  poli- 
cies were  paid.  In  1887  suspicion  was  excited 
by  William  B.  Sirrett,  of  Buffalo,  claiming  to 
have  seen  Crandall  in  Los  Angeles,  Cal.  Clew 
after  clew  was  followed.  A  reward  of  $1,000 
was  offered.  In  1892  Crandall  was  captured 
in  California. 

THE 

Harry  Leslie  was  first  to  be  given  the  title  of 
"  American  Blondin."  He  crossed  the  gorge 
and  rapids  on  a  rope  cable  in  July  and  August, 
1865. 


88 


DRAMATIC  INCIDENTS. 

BORING'S  BAND  IN  CAVE  OF  THE  WINDS. 

On  the  afternoon  of  Saturday,  August  26, 
1865,  Boring's  Band,  of  Troy,  N.  Y.,  then  fill- 
ing a  summer  engagement  at  one  of  the  hotels, 
passed  through  the  Cave  of  the  Winds,  carry- 
ing their  instruments.  The  band  had  ten 
members.  They  played  "  Yankee  Doodle  " 
on  Prospect  Rock  in  front  of  the  cave. 

FARINI  IN  THE  RAPIDS. 

Monday,  August  8,  1864,  Farini  walked 
about  the  rapids  above  the  American  Fall  on 
stilts.  Between  Robinson's  Island  and  the 
precipice  he  was  delayed.  He  claimed  his 
stilts  caught  in  a  crevice.  His  brother  suc- 
ceeded in  reaching  a  log  between  the  old  paper 
mill  and  Robinson's  Island,  from  whence  he 
threw  a  line,  with  a  weight  attached,  to  the  ad- 
venturer, and  by  this  line  a  pail  of  provisions 
was  sent  to  Farini.  A  larger  line  was  thrown 
and  both  reached  shore  by  way  of  Goat  Island. 


HISTORIC     NIAGARA. 

BY  PETER  A.  PORTER. 

Famous  all  over  the  world  as  Niagara  is  to- 
day in  its  scenic,  botanic,  geologic,  and  hy- 
draulic aspects,  it  is  equally  famous,  equally 
interesting,  and  equally  instructive  in  its  vari- 
ous and  numerous  historic  features.  And  in 
using  the  words  of  our  title  we  use  them  in 
their  broadest  and  noblest  sense,  employing 
the  word  "  historic  "  to  cover  all  those  multi- 
tudinous phases  of  this  region's  existence  and 
condition  at  which  a  true  student  of  history 
instinctively  looks;  and  the  word  Niagara, 
not  in  that  circumscribed  meaning  which  takes 
in  only  the  Falls  and  their  immediate  sur- 
roundings, but  making  it  cover  both  banks  of 
this  famous  river  from  its  source  to  its  mouth. 
To  treat  of  such  a  broad  subject  within  the 
narrow  limits  of  a  few  pages  will  permit  of  only 
the  briefest  reference  to  any  point. 
90 


Photograph  by  Niels 
THE   AMERICAN    FALL   FROM    GOAT    ISLAND. 


HISTORIC  NIAGARA. 
EARLY  MENTIONS  OF  NIAGARA. 

Just  when  white  men  first  saw  the  Falls  we 
cannot  accurately  say.  This  great  Cataract 
was  known  in  a  general  way  to  the  Indians  of 
North  America,  who  dwelt  far  from  it  and  who 
had  never  seen  it,  probably  before  Columbus 
sailed  on  his  first  voyage  of  discovery.  It  has 
been  known  to  white  men,  only  since  1603,  al- 
though the  Falls  may  possibly,  though  not 
probably,  have  been  visited  during  the  i6th 
century  by  any  one  of  the  adventurous  seamen 
and  traders  sent  out  by  France  to  explore  the 
Newr  World,  though  they  left  no  record  of 
any  such  visitations.  Samuel  De  Champlain 
in  his  "  Des  Sauvages,"  published  in  1603  and 
describing  his  first  voyage  to  the  St.  Lawrence, 
in  that  year,  refers  to  the  Falls  in  unmistak- 
able language  though  not  by  name,  this  being 
the  first  reference  to  them  in  literature.  The 
Indians  told  him  in  reply  to  his  inquiries 
regarding  the  source  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 
that  "  after  ascending  many  leagues  among 
rapids  and  waterfalls  he  would  reach  a  lake 
(Ontario),  140  or  150  leagues  broad,  at  the 
western  end  of  which  the  waters  were  whole- 
91 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

some  and  the  winters  mild;  that  a  river  emp- 
tied into  it  from  the  south  which  had  its  source 
in  the  country  of  the  Iroquois;  that  beyond 
the  lake  he  would  find  a  cataract  and  a  port- 
age; then  another  lake  (Erie)  about  equal  to 
the  former,  which  they  had  never  explored." 
Champlain  never  saw  Niagara.  In  his  1613 
volume,  describing  his  voyages  up  to  that 
date,  he  locates  them  very  accurately  on  his 
maps  as  a  "  waterfall,"  but  not  by  name;  and 
in  his  1632  edition,  he  both  locates  them  cor- 
rectly, though  not  by  their  name,  on  his  map 
and  further  refers  to  them  in  his  description 
of  the  map  itself.  In  1641,  the  Jesuit  Father 
L'Allement  in  his  letters  to  his  superior,  speak- 
ing of  the  Indian  tribes,  refers  to  the  "  Neuter 
nation  (Onguiaarha),  having  the  same  name  as 
the  river; "  and  in  1648  the  Jesuit  Father 
Ragueneau  in  a  similar  letter  says,  "  North  of 
the  Fries  is  a  great  lake  fully  200  leagues  in 
circumference  called  Erie,  formed  by  the  dis- 
charge of  the  Mer  Douce  (Lake  Huron),  which 
falls  into  a  third  lake  called  Ontario,  though 
we  call  it  Lake  St.  Louis,  over  a  cataract  of 
fearful  height."  In  1656  Sanson  located  the 
Falls  accurately  on  his  map  and  called  them 
92 


HISTORIC  NIAGARA. 

"  Ongiara,"  and  in  1660  De  Creuxius  in  his 
"  Historiae  Canadensis  "  noted  them  as  "  On- 
giara Catarractes."  In  1678,  Father  Louis 
Hennepin,  who  accompanied  La  Salle,  tells  us 
that  "  he  personally  "  visited  the  Falls,  and  in 


FAC-SIMILE   OF   A   VIEW    OF    NIAGARA   FALLS   BY    FATHER 
HENNEPIN. 

(From  the  Original  Utrecht  Edition,  1697.) 

his  first  book,  "  Louisiana,"  published  in  1683, 
describing  La  Salle's  explorations  and  adven- 
tures in  this  section  of  the  country,  applies  the 
name  Niagara  both  to  the  river  and  to  the 
Falls,  and  gives  the  earliest,  though  a  very 

93 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

brief  description  of  the  Falls  themselves.  In 
1688,  Coronellis's  map  of  this  region  locates 
the  Falls  and  first  uses  the  name  "  Niagara  " 
in  cartography,  a  name  used  from  that  date 
without  change.  In  1691,  Father  Le  Clercq 
in  his  "  Establishment  of  the  Faith  "  (from 
which  work  Father  Hennepin  is  accused  of 
plagiarizing  certain  parts  of  his  famous  "  New 
Discovery  "),  also  speaks  of  "  Niagara  Falls," 
but  it  is  in  Father  Hennepin's  "  New  Discov- 
ery7' just  referred  to,  published  in  1697,  that 
we  find  the  first  real  description  of  them  pre- 
served to  us  in  type,  and  in  that  volume  is  also 
given  the  first  illustration  of  the  Falls,  which 
is  reproduced  in  this  work.  A  part  of  Henne- 
pin's description  is  also  quoted  in  another  arti- 
cle in  this  book. 

During  the  next  fifty  years  Hennepin's  three 
works  appeared  in  some  forty-five  editions  and 
reproductions,  and  were  translated  into  all  the 
languages  of  Europe;  and  by  these  means  and 
from  descriptions  of  other  travellers  (not- 
ably that  of  Campanius  Holm,  in  his  "  New 
Sweden,"  published  in  1702,  and  Baron  La 
Hontan's  "Voyages,"  published  in  1703)  Ni- 
agara became  generally  known  to  Europeans. 

94 


HISTORIC  NIAGARA. 

It  was  reserved  for  Charlevoix,  in  1721,  accu- 
rately to  reckon  the  height  of  the  Falls  and  to 
correct  other  erroneous  reports  and  descrip- 
tions of  them  published  theretofore.  We  have 
thus  briefly  traced  the  history  of  the  earliest 
knowledge  and  of  the  earliest  literature  of  Ni- 
agara down  to  a  comparatively  recent  date. 
From  that  time  the  bibliography  of  Niagara, 
including  its  cartography  and  illustrations  of 
every  kind,  is  so  voluminous  as  to  form  in  itself 
a  distinct  branch  of  our  title  on  which  for  lack 
of  space  we  cannot  even  touch. 

THE    NAME    NIAGARA. 

The  Indian  custom  of  giving  their  tribal 
name  to,  or  taking  it  from,  the  chief  natural 
feature  of  the  country  they  inhabited  (as 
proved  by  the  nomenclature  of  the  Central  and 
Eastern  States,  as  well  as  in  the  extensive 
literature  on  Indian  subjects)  tells  us  that  a 
nation  of  this  name  inhabited  the  territory 
along  the  Niagara  River  on  both  sides ;  but  as 
there  are  forty  different  known  ways  of  spell- 
ing the  name,  its  orthography  differs  materi- 
ally with  various  early  authors.*  This  much, 

*  A  list  of  these  is  given  in  the  Index  volume  of  the  "  Docu- 
95 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

however,  we  know — that  when  Hennepin  first 
saw  the  Falls,  Niagara  was  the  local  Indian 
spelling  of  the  name;  "  Niagara,"  the  world 
accepted  it;  and  "  Niagara  "  it  has  been  ever 
since.  According  to  the  most  general  accept- 
ance the  name  is  derived  from  what  is  com- 
monly known  as  the  Iroquois  language,  and 
signifies  "  the  thunder  of  the  waters,"  though 
this  appropriate  and  poetic  significance  has 
been  questioned,  and  it  is  claimed  by  some  that 
it  signifies  "  neck,"  symbolizing  the  fact  of  the 
Niagara  River  being  the  connecting  link  be- 
tween the  two  great  lakes. 

The  Neuter  or  Niagara  nation  of  Indians 
(subsequently  merged  into  the  Iroquois)  by 
whom  the  name  was  first  adopted,  would  seem 
to  have  pronounced  it  Nyah-ga-r<fh,  their  lan- 
guage having  no  labial  sounds,  and  all  their 
words  being  spoken  without  closing  the  lips. 
The  pronunciation  Nee-ah-gara,  sometimes 
heard  nowadays,  was  probably  also  in  common 
use  later  on ;  while  in  more  modern  Indian  dia- 
lect, the  sounding  of  every  vowel  being  still 

mentary  History  of  the  State  of  New  York."     The  most  com- 
monly met  with  of  these  variations  are  Onguaiarha,  Ongiara, 
Onyakara,  lagara,  Nicariaga,  Ungiara,  and  Jagara. 
96 


HISTORIC  NIAGARA. 

continued,  Ni-ah-g<$h-rah  (accent  on  the  third 
syllable)  was  the  accepted,  as  it  is  the  cor- 
rect, pronunciation,  the  present  pronunciation, 
without  any  pronounced  accent  on  any  sylla- 
ble, being  an  adaptation  of  more  recent  years. 

MODERN    HISTORY. 

The  commencement  of  what  may  be  termed 
the  modern  history  of  this  region  dates  back 
to  that  day  in  December,  1678,  when,  starting 
from  the  mouth  of  the  Niagara  River, 

"  A  chieftain  of  the  Iroquois,  clad  in  a  bison  skin, 
Had  let  two  travelers  through  the  woods — 
La  Salle  and  Hennepin  " — 

to  view  the  great  cataract  of  which  they  had 
heard  so  much  from  their  Indian  allies  on  the 
St.  Lawrence.  As  these  three  men  stood 
there,  they  typified  the  nations — the  French 
and  the  Indian — that  for  almost  a  hundred 
years  were  to  control  the  destinies  of  this  re- 
gion; and  in  their  personalities,  "  the  chief,  the 
soldier  of  the  sword  and  the  soldier  of  the 
cross,"  they  exemplified  the  professions  by 
means  of  which  its  conquest  and  civilization 
were  to  be  effected. 

In  the  two  hundred  years  that  have  elapsed 
7  97 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

since  that  day,  the  Indian  and  the  Frenchman 
have  disappeared  from  this  region;  another 
and  a  stronger  race  has  acquired  possession  of 
this  territory,  to  be  in  turn  dispossessed  of  half 
of  it  by  her  own  descendants.  And  during 
those  two  hundred  years,  on  the  pages  of  their 
history  and  in  the  literature  of  France,  Eng- 
land, Canada,  and  the  United  States,  the  name 
Niagara  is  indelibly  stamped  as  a  prominent 
and  integral  part. 

OWNERSHIP. 

So  far  as  the  contention  for,  and  the  posses- 
sion of,  this  famous  region  by  the  nations  o'f 
the  earth  are  concerned,  we  may  divide  its  his- 
tory into  these  main  periods : 

French  claims  on  a  broad  basis  by  reason  of 
early  explorations  and  discoveries  in  the  East, 
up  to  the  real  occupation  by  La  Salle  in 
1678. 

French  occupation  and  sovereignty  from 
that  date,  gradually,  but  regularly,  and  at  last 
successfully  disputed  by  the  English  in  1759. 

English  occupation  and  undisputed  control 
from  then  till  1776. 

English  occupation  till  1783,  and  from  that 
98 


HISTORIC  NIAGARA. 

date  undisputed  ownership  of  the  land  lying 
west  of  the  Niagara  River. 

United  States  ownership  and  control  of  that 
part  lying  east  of  the  Niagara  River  from  that 
date,  although  so  far  as  Fort  Niagara  is  con- 
cerned, England  did  not  relinquish  it  till  1796. 

FRENCH    OCCUPATION. 

The  French,  having  early  claimed  all  the 
northeastern  part  of  this  continent  from  Lab- 
rador southwards  as  above  noted,  began  at  an 
early  date  to  push  their  explorations  and  con- 
quests westwards  at  first  mainly  along  the  line 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  River.  Champlain,  be- 
tween 1603  and  1630,  had  done  much  to  make 
France  a  paramount  force  in  this  section  and 
to  attach  many  of  the  Indians  to  her  allegiance 
by  siding  with  them  in  their  tribal  wars 
against  their  neighbors — an  alliance  which  in 
after  years  arrayed  many  Indian  tribes,  espe- 
cially the  powerful  Iroquois,  against  her  and 
hastened  her  defeat. 

On  December  6,  1678,  Father  Hennepin, 

in  a  brig  of  ten  tons  and  with  a  crew  of  sixteen 

persons,  entered  the  mouth  of  the  Niagara 

River.     He  was  on  his  westward  journey,  sent 

99 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

on  in  advance  by  La  Salle,  who  followed  him 
before  the  close  of  the  year,  and  who,  through 
love  of  his  country  and  expectations  of  per- 
sonal wealth,  had  labored  long  to  extend  the 
sovereignty  of  France.  La  Salle's  object  was 
to  make  good  by  conquest  the  powers  con- 
ferred upon  him  by  the  French  king,  to  obtain 
for  himself  a  monopoly  of  the  fur  trade,  and  to 
reach  and  control  the  mines  of  St.  Barbe,  in 
Louisiana;  and  as  he  went  he  intended  to  es- 
tablish a  chain  of  fortifications  which  both  in 
war  and  the  fur  trade  should  be  points  of  van- 
tage for  future  generations. 

A  true  soldier,  La  Salle  at  once  saw  the 
immense  strategic  advantage  of  the  point 
where  Fort  Niagara  now  stands,  and  to  this 
day  the  correctness  of  his  judgment  has  not 
been  questioned.  Here  he  built  a  trading 
post,  and  pursuing  his  way  up  the  Niagara 
River  to  where  Lewiston  now  stands,  he  built 
a  fort  of  palisades ;  and  carrying  the  anchors, 
cordage,  etc.,  which  he  had  brought  for  that 
purpose,  up  the  so-called  "  Three  Mountains  " 
at  Lewiston,  he  found  a  spot  at  the  mouth  of 
Cayuga  Creek,  about  five  miles  above  the  Falls 
(where  is  to-day  a  hamlet  bearing  his  name), 

IOO 


HISTORIC  NIAGARA. 

where  he  built  and  launched  the  Griffon,  the 
first  vessel  that  ever  sailed  the  upper  lakes. 
For  almost  a  hundred  years  after  this  the  his- 
tory of  the  Niagara  Frontier  belongs  to  the 
French,  though  their  sovereignty  was  attacked 
and  at  last  overthrown  by  the  English. 

In  1687,  Marquis  De  Nonville,  during  his 
expedition  against  the  hostile  Senecas,  rebuilt 
La  Salle's  destroyed  trading  post  at  Fort  Ni- 
agara into  a  strong  fort.  The  following  year 
it  was  abandoned  and  destroyed,  but  it  was 
too  valuable  a  point  of  vantage  to  be  lost,  and 
in  1725  it  was  rebuilt  in  stone  by  consent  of 
the  Iroquois. 

The  site  of  the  present  village  of  Lewiston, 
the  head  of  navigation  on  the  lower  Niagara, 
was  the  commencement  of  a  portage  by  which 
goods,  ammunition,  etc.,  were  conveyed  to  a 
point  about  a  mile  and  a  half  above  the  Falls, 
over  a  line  which  is  still  called  the  Portage 
Road.  For  the  purposes  of  this  portage, 
from  the  edge  of  the  river  at  the  lower  end  of 
the  rapids,  up  the  "  Three  Mountains,"  was 
built  a  rude  tramway  on  which,  by  means  of 
ropes  and  windlasses,  a  car  was  raised  and  low- 
ered. Built  in  1764,  it  is  claimed  to  have  been 

101 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

the  first  railroad  constructed  in  this  country. 
Though  noted  on  many  maps  no  trace  even  of 
its  foundations  now  remains.  The  Indians, 
naturally  averse  to  manual  labor,  operated  the 
tramway,  taking  their  pay  in  rum  and  tobacco, 
otherwise  unobtainable  by  them.  The  upper 
end  of  this  portage  was  originally  only  a  land- 
ing place  for  boats,  but  was  gradually  fortified 
until  in  1750  it  became  a  strong  fort — called 
Fort  Du  Portage,  or  by  some,  Fort  Little 
Niagara — to  defend  the  French  barracks  and 
storehouses  which  had  been  erected  there. 
The  Fort  was  burned  in  1759  by  Joncaire,  who 
was  in  command  when  the  British  commenced 
their  memorable  campaign  of  that  year,  and 
Joncaire  retreated  to  a  station  on  Chippewa 
Creek.  In  that  campaign  General  Prideaux, 
commanding  the  British  forces  in  this  section, 
and  carrying  out  that  portion  of  the  general 
plan  assigned  to  him,  massed  his  forces  on  the 
shore  of  Lake  Ontario,  east  of  Fort  Niagara, 
and  demanded  its  surrender;  this  being  re- 
fused, he  laid  siege  to  it.  During  the  siege 
Prideaux  was  killed,  and  Sir  William  Johnson 
succeeded  him  and  captured  Fort  Niagara,  the 
main  stronghold  then  held  by  the  French  in 

IO2 


HISTORIC  NIAGARA. 

that  long  chain  of  forts  connecting  Canada 
with  Louisiana.  During  the  siege  the  French 
had  sent  reinforcements  from  Venango  in 
Pennsylvania  to  the  garrison  of  Niagara. 
They  left  their  vessels  on  Navy  Island  (named 
Isle  de  Marine  by  the  French),  passed  over  the 
Portage,  and  just  before  reaching  Fort  Niag- 
ara were  ambushed  and  routed  by  the  British. 
On  Navy  Island  the  French  had  recently  built 
some  small  vessels,  and  to  prevent  these,  as 
well  as  the  two  ships  which  brought  down  the 
reinforcements  from  Venango,  from  falling 
into  the  hands  of  the  victorious  British,  they 
took  them  over  to  Grand  Island,  at  the 
northern  end  of  which  is  a  bay,  where  they 
set  them  on  fire,  destroying  them  and  sinking 
the  useless  hulls,  from  which  circumstance 
the  place  is  called  Burnt  Ship  Bay  to  this 
day. 

The  British  successes  of  1759  made  them 
masters  of  all  this  frontier,  and  by  1761  Capt. 
Joseph  Schlosser  of  the  British  Army  built  a 
fort  a  little  to  the  east  of  Fort  Du  Portage  and 
named  it  after  himself.  Just  below  the  site  of 
that  fort  still  stands  a  solitary  stone  chimney, 
the  only  relic  left  of  all  these  fortifications.  It 
103 


THE  NIAGARA.   BOOK. 

was  part  of  the  old  French  barracks,  previously 
alluded  to  at  Fort  Du  Portage. 

DEVIL'S    HOLE    MASSACRE. 

The  Indian  nature  is  heartless  and  unforgiv- 
ing. When  Champlain  in  his  trip  to  the  lake 
which  bears  his  name  asked  the  assistance  of 
the  Hurons,  he  took  their  part  in  their  tribal 
war  against  the  Iroquois.  Thus  was  laid  the 
commencement  of  that  partisanship  of  the 
various  Indian  tribes,  some  to  the  French  and 
some  to  the  English,  which  lasted  throughout 
the  better  part  of  the  eighteenth  century,  and 
one  of  the  results  of  which  was  that  fatal  trag- 
edy on  this  frontier  known  as  "  The  Devil's 
Hole  Massacre." 

After  the  British  success  of  1759  and  their 
subsequent  control  of  this  territory,  the  Sene- 
cas,  actuated  by  their  inherited  hatred  of  the 
English  and  incited  probably  by  the  French, 
commenced  a  bloody  supplemental  campaign 
in  1763.  Knowing  that  the  English* were  daily 
sending  poorly  guarded  trains  from  Fort 
Niagara  through  Lewiston,  where  they  had 
an  auxiliary  encampment,  to  Fort  Schlosser, 
they  planned  an  ambuscade  and  executed  it 
104 


HISTORIC  NIAGARA. 

with  precision  and  fatal  results.  At  the  nar- 
row pass  at  the  Devil's  Hole  they  ambushed 
the  supply  train,  destroying  it  and  killing  all 
but  three  of  the  escort  and  drivers.  They  then 
ambushed  the  relieving  force,  which  on  hear- 
ing the  firing  had  hastened  from  Lewiston, 
killing  all  but  eight.  It  was  a  masterly  exam- 
ple of  Indian  warfare  executed  with  Indian 
cunning  and  Indian  bloodthirstiness. 

CESSIONS    AND    TREATIES. 

By  the  treaty  of  1763  France  ceded  to  Eng- 
land all  this  region  and  all  her  Canadian  pos- 
sessions for  which  her  armies  and  her  mis- 
sionaries had  spent,  during  one  hundred  years, 
so  much  energy,  so  vast  an  amount  of  money, 
and  so  many  lives. 

In  the  spring  of  1764  Sir  William  Johnson, 
supplementing  the  treaty  of  the  preceding 
year,  assembled  representatives  of  all  the  In- 
dians of  Northern  America  from  both  East 
and  West,  over  2,000  in  number,  including  the 
hostile  Senecas,  at  Fort  Niagara,  and  acquired 
from  them,  for  the  British  Crown,  the  title  to  a 
large  tract  of  land,  including  a  strip  four  miles 
in  width,  two  miles  wide  on  each  side  of  the 
105 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

Niagara  River  for  its  entire  length.  At  the 
same  time  the  Senecas  ceded  to  Sir  William 
Johnson  all  the  islands  in  the  Niagara  River. 
He  in  turn  ceded  them  to  the  British  Sover- 
eign. So  that  at  this  time  Niagara  Falls,  the 
grandest  and  most  noted  cataract  on  the 
globe,  was  the  Koh-i-noor  of  the  English  Crown 
in  the  New  World.  Twelve  years  afterwards 
the  Declaration  of  Independence  was  signed 
and  the  long  revolutionary  struggle  for  inde- 
pendence commenced.  Had  General  Sulli- 
van's campaign  of  1779,  as  planned,  been  suc- 
cessful, he  would  have  attacked  Fort  Niagara; 
but  disaster  overtook  him,  and  the  War  of  the 
Revolution  never  reached  the  Niagara  River 
in  actual  hostilities.  In  1783  the  Treaty  of  Paris 
was  signed,  by  which  England  admitted  the  in- 
dependence of  the  United  States  and  recog- 
nized the  Great  Lakes  as  our  northern  bound- 
ary, though  it  was  not  until  1796,  after  the 
ratification  of  Jay's  treaty,  that  she  abandoned 
some  of  the  strongholds  on  our  soil,  including 
Fort  Niagara. 

WAR  OF  1812. 

It  is  foreign  to  the  purpose  of  this  article  to 
discuss  the  causes,  some  of  which  had  a  bear- 
106 


HISTORIC  NIAGARA. 

ing  on  this  region,  which  led  up  to  President 
Madison's  proclamation  of  war  between  Great 
Britain  and  the  United  States,  known  as  the 
War  of  1812,  of  which  this  immediate  region, 
popularly  called  the  Niagara  frontier,  felt  the 
full  force.  In  the  fall  of  that  year,  four  months 
after  the  declaration  of  war,  General  Van 
Rensselaer  established  his  camp  near  Lewiston 
(so  called  in  honor  of  Governor  Lewis  of  New 
York),  and  collected  an  army  to  invade  Can- 
ada. After  one  unsuccessful  attempt  he 
reached  the  Canadian  shore,  and  by  the  time 
General  Brock  had  arrived  from  the  mouth  of 
the  river  to  oppose  him,  was  in  possession  of 
Queenston  Heights.  In  endeavoring  to  re- 
capture these  and  to  retrieve  the  point  of  van- 
tage that  never  should  have  been  lost,  General 
Brock  was  killed.  British  reinforcements  ar- 
riving from  Niagara,  the  Americans  were  dis- 
lodged from  the  heights,  defeated,  and  many 
taken  prisoners.  Meanwhile,  on  the  American 
side,  in  full  view  of  the  battle,  were  some  hun- 
dreds of  American  volunteers  who  basely  re- 
fused to  cross  the  river  and  aid  their  compan- 
ions. At  the  foot  of  Queenston  Heights  an 
inscribed  stone  (set  in  place  by  the  Prince  of 
107 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

Wales  in  1860)  marks  the  exact  spot  where 
Brock  fell;  and  on  the  heights,  just  above  it, 
a  lofty  and  beautiful  column  (the  second  one 
erected  at  this  point,  the  first  one  having  been 
blown  up  by  a  miscreant  in  1840)  stands  as  a 
monument  of  his  country's  gratitude.  In  the 
same  year  Gen.  Alexander  Smyth,  of  Virginia, 
issued  his  famous  bombastic  circular  inviting 
everybody  to  join  him  at  Black  Rock,  near 
Buffalo,  and  invade  Canada  from  that  point. 
Some  five  thousand  men  responded  to  his  invi- 
tation, but  Smyth  having  made  himself  a 
laughing-stock  among  his  own  people,  the  in- 
vasion was  abandoned  and  the  army  dis- 
persed. 

In  the  following  year,  1813,  the  Americans 
captured  Fort  George  on  the  Canadian  shore, 
near  the  mouth  of  the  Niagara  River,  and  the 
village  of  Newark,  or  Niagara.  This  is  the 
oldest  settlement  in  this  section.  It  was  for  a 
time  the  residence  of  the  Lieutenant-Governor 
of  Canada,  and  here  in  1792  the  first  Parlia- 
ment of  Upper  Canada  held  its  session.  New- 
ark was  burned  by  the  Americans  on  their  re- 
treat, without  reason,  as  the  British  claimed, 
and  they  immediately  retaliated;  for  ten  days 
108 


HISTORIC  NIAGARA. 

later  they  surprised  and  captured  Fort  Niagara 
and  burned  every  American  village  on  the 
Niagara  River,  including  Youngstown,  Lewis- 
ton,  Manchester  (now  Niagara  Falls),  Fort 
Schlosser,  Black  Rock,  and  Buffalo,  spreading 
devastation  along  the  American  frontier.  The 
year  1814  witnessed  two  battles  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  Falls  themselves,  both  on  the  Canadian 
side.  Chippewa,  a  victory  for  the  Americans, 
and  Bridgewater  or  Lundy's  Lane,  claimed  as 
a  victory  by  both  parties.  The  latter  was  one 
of  the  most  remarkable  conflicts  recorded  in 
history.  Within  sight  of  the  Falls,  in  the  glory 
of  the  light  of  a  full  moon,  the  opposing  armies 
engaged  in  hand-to-hand  conflict,  from  sun- 
down to  midnight,  when  both  sides,  exhausted 
by  their  efforts,  withdrew  from  the  field.  The 
British  before  dawn,  and  unopposed,  reoccu- 
pied  the  battle  ground,  and  on  this  alone  rests 
their  claim  to  victory.  Later  on  the  Ameri- 
can army  occupied  Fort  Erie,  which  they  had 
shortly  before  wrested  from  the  British  and 
where  they  were  besieged  by  them.  From 
this  fort  on  the  seventeenth  of  September, 
1814,  the  Americans  made  that  famous  and 
successful  sortie,  planned  and  led  by  Gen. 
109 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

Peter  B.  Porter,  which  disbanded  the  British 
besiegers,  this  being  the  only  case  in  history, 
according  to  Lord  Napier,  where  a  besieging 
army  was  entirely  defeated  and  disbanded  by 
such  a  movement. 

We  necessarily  omit  all  reference  to  many 
points  along  the  river  made  famous  by  the  ex- 
ploits, the  daring,  and  often  by  the  loss  of  life 
of  the  combatants  in  this  war — points  locally 
important  in  themselves  but  which  have  not 
risen  to  the  dignity  of  that  much-abused  word, 
"  history." 

The  Treaty  of  Ghent  restored  peace  to  both 
countries  and  to  the  inhabitants  on  their  ex- 
hausted frontiers.  Under  this  treaty,  com- 
missioners were  appointed  to  locate  the  bound- 
ary line  between  Canada  and  the  United 
States,  already  somewhat  laxly  provided  for 
in  the  treaty  of  1783.  These  commissioners 
agreed  to  run  the  boundary  line  along  this 
frontier,  through  the  middle  of  the  Horseshoe 
Falls  and  through  the  deepest  channel  of  the 
river,  both  above  and  below  them.  Thus 
Navy  Island  fell  to  the  share  of  the  Cana- 
dians and  Grand  Island  became  American 

soil. 

no 


HISTORIC  NIAGARA. 
LAND    TITLES. 

We  have  already  noted  the  cession  of  this 
region  by  the  French  to  the  English  in  1763, 
and  also  the  cession  by  the  British  of  the  east- 
ern side  of  the  river  to  the  United  States  at  the 
close  of  the  Revolutionary  War,  which  joint 
occupation  has  never  since  been  permanently 
disturbed.  We  also  noted  the  cession  by  the 
Senecas  to  the  British  of  the  land  on  each  side 
of  the  river,  and  of  the  islands  to  Sir  William 
Johnson  and  by  him  to  the  English  Crown. 

A  strip  of  land  one  mile  wide  along  the 
American  shore  from  Lake  Ontario  to  Lake 
Erie  had  been  exempted  when  New  York 
ceded  the  ownership  of  what  is  now  the  west- 
ern portion  of  this  State  to  Massachusetts, 
which  ownership  New  York  subsequently  re- 
acquired.  Finally  the  Indians,  who,  in  spite 
of  their  former  cessions  to  England,  still 
claimed  an  ownership,  ceded  to  New  York, 
for  $1,000  and  an  annuity  of  $1,500,  their  title 
to  all  the  islands  in  the  Niagara  River.  The 
State  of  New  York  patented  the  mile  strip  to 
individuals  commencing  in  the  first  decade  of 
this  century. 

in 


THE   NIAGARA   BOOK. 
FAMOUS    INCIDENTS. 

In  the  year  1824  Grand  Island,  which  con- 
tains about  eighteen  thousand  acres,  was  se- 
lected by  Major  M.  M.  Noah  as  the  future 
home  of  the  Jews  of  the  New  World.  He  pro- 
posed to  buy  the  island,  make  of  it  a  second 
Jerusalem,  and  within  the  sound  of  Niagara  to 
build  up  an  ideal  community  of  wealth  and  in- 
dustry. In  1825,  acting  as  the  Great  High 
Priest  of  the  Project,  clad  in  sacerdotal  robes, 
attended  in  procession  by  the  civic  and  mili- 
tary authorities,  local  societies,  and  a  great 
concourse  of  people,  with  appropriate  cere- 
monies he  laid  the  corner-stone  of  his  future 
City  of  Ararat  on  the  altar  of  a  Christian 
church  in  Buffalo.  This  corner-stone  was 
subsequently  built  into  a  monument  at  White- 
haven  on  Grand  Island,  opposite  the  village  of 
Tonawanda.  It  is  now  in  the  possession  of 
the  Buffalo  Historical  Society.  Major  Noah's 
plan  fell  through,  as  the  Patriarch  of  Jerusalem 
refused  his  sanction  to  the  project. 

THE    ERIE    CANAL. 

On  October  26,  1825,  a  cannon  boomed 
forth  its  greeting  at  Buffalo;  a  few  seconds 

112 


HISTORIC  NIAGARA. 

afterward  another  cannon  a  short  distance 
down  the  river  caught  up  the  sound,  and  so  on, 
cannon  after  cannon,  cannon  after  cannon, 
down  the  Niagara  River  to  Tonawanda,  thence 
easterly  to  Albany,  thence  down  the  bank  of 
the  Hudson  to  New  York  City,  transmitting 
the  message  that  at  the  source  of  the  historic 
Niagara  River  the  waters  of  Lake  Erie  had 
been  let  into  that  just  completed  water-way — 
the  Erie  Canal. 

Fort  Niagara  became  a  spot  of  national 
celebrity  in  1826.  William  Morgan,  a  resi- 
dent of  Batavia  in  this  State,  and  a  member  of 
the  Masonic  fraternity,  threatened  to  disclose 
the  secrets  of  that  body  in  print.  He  was 
quietly  seized  and  taken  away  from  his  home. 
He  was  traced  in  the  hands  of  his  abductors  to 
Fort  Niagara,  where  he  is  said  to  have  been 
incarcerated  in  one  of  the  buildings  in  the  fort, 
and  to  this  day  "  Morgan's  Dungeon  "  is  one 
of  the  sights  shown  to  visitors.  He  was  never 
heard  of  after  he  entered  the  fort,  and  popular 
fancy  says  that  he  was  taken  from  this  dun- 
geon by  night  and  drowned  in  Lake  Ontario. 
Several  persons  were  subsequently  tried  for 
his  murder,  but  no  proof  of  their  complicity  in 

8  113 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

the  matter,  nor  even  of  Morgan's  death,  was 
produced.  The  principal  episode  in  the  fa- 
mous anti-Masonic  agitation  of  that  period 
thus  became  a  part  of  Niagara's  local  history. 

THE    PATRIOT    WAR. 

In  1837  occurred  what  is  known  as  the 
Canadian  Patriot  War.  While  the  agitation 
of  the  Patriots  centred  in  Toronto,  it  kept  the 
entire  Niagara  frontier  on  the  Canadian  side 
in  a  ferment  for  several  months,  and  Navy  Isl- 
and became  one  of  their  rendezvous,  a  portion 
of  the  British  troops  being  stationed  at  Chip- 
pewa.  Without  reference  to  the  intrigues 
carried  on  along  the  frontier  by  the  Canadian 
agitators  with  their  American  sympathizers, 
we  deal  only  with  the  one  important  event 
known  as  the  Caroline  episode.  It  was  openly 
charged  that  the  Patriots  were  receiving  sub- 
stantial aid  from  the  American  side,  not  only 
from  private  individuals,  but  also  by  reason  of 
the  non-intervention  of  National  and  State 
authorities,  when  they  knew  that  arms  were 
being  shipped  and  material  assistance  rendered 
from  American  soil.  So  bitter  was  the  feeling 
on  the  part  of  the  Britishers,  that  when  the 
114 


HISTORIC  NIAGARA. 

opportunity  offered,  it  is  not  surprising  that 
they  made  the  most  of  it.  A  small  steamer, 
the  Caroline,  had  been  chartered  by  Buffalo 
parties  to  run  between  that  city,  Navy  Island, 
where  the  insurgents  were  encamped,  and 
Schlosser  Landing  on  the  American  shore. 
According  to  their  statement  it  was  a  private 
enterprise,  started  to  make  money  by  carrying 
excursionists  to  the  insurgents'  camp;  but  ac- 
cording to  the  Canadian  view,  her  real  busi- 
ness was  to  convey  arms  and  provisions  to  the 
insurgents.  On  the  night  of  December  29th, 
the  Caroline  lay  at  Schlosser's  dock.  The  ex- 
citement had  drawn  large  numbers  of  people 
there ;  all  the  hotels  were  filled,  and  some  peo- 
ple had  sought  a  night's  lodgingon  the  steamer 
itself.  At  midnight  six  boatloads  of  British 
soldiers,  sent  from  Chippewa  by  Sir  Allan 
McNab,  silently  approached  the  Caroline, 
boarded  and  captured  her,  turned  off  all  on 
board,  cut  her  moorings,  set  her  on  fire,  and 
towed  her  into  the  river.  In  the  melee  and 
exchange  of  shots,  one  man,  Amos  Durfee, 
was  killed.  The  boat  was  burned  to  the 
water's  edge  and  sank  not  far  from  where  she 
had  been  cut  adrift. 

"5 


THE  NIAGARA.  BOOK. 

The  affair  caused  intense  excitement  and 
was  the  source  of  long  diplomatic  correspon- 
dence, the  British  Government  assuming  full 
responsibility  for  the  claimed  breaches  of  inter- 
national law,  but  finally  apologizing  for  it.  One 
man,  Alexander  McLeod,  was  arrested  and 
tried  in  this  State  for  manslaughter,  and  finally 
acquitted. 

THE    FENIAN    WAR. 

From  the  time  of  the  Patriot  War,  with  the 
exception  of  the  Fenian  Outbreak  in  1866,  the 
history  of  this  region  has  nothing  to  do  with 
international  war.  The  Fenian  Outbreak, 
similar  in  its  inception  so  far  as  its  hostility 
to  the  existing  government  of  Canada  and 
a  desire  to  aid  the  Irish  cause  of  home  rule  by 
inciting  hostilities  among  Britain's  colonies, 
was  quickly  suppressed.  Of  actual  hostilities 
during  that  agitation  there  was  but  one  occur- 
rence, known  as  the  battle  of  Ridgeway,  on  the 
Canadian  side  in  the  vicinity  of  Buffalo,  where 
the  Fenians  were  defeated. 

COMMERCIAL    HISTORY. 

In  its  commercially  historic  aspects,  there 
stands  out  one  important  project  in  connec- 
116 


HISTORIC  NIAGARA. 

tion  with  Niagara  Falls  which  has  been 
broached  by  its  advocates  in  public  and  in  pri- 
vate, and  especially  in  the  halls  of  Congress  for 
the  past  three-quarters  of  a  century.  Al- 
though by  international  treaty,  no  war  vessels 
are  permitted  on  the  upper  lakes,  in  the  line  of 
Washington's  famous  aphorism,  that  "  the 
best  way  to  maintain  peace  is  to  be  prepared 
for  war,"  the  advocates  of  a  ship  canal  of  a 
capacity  large  enough  to  float  our  largest  ves- 
sels, connecting  the  Niagara  River  some  two 
or  three  miles  above  the  Falls  with  its  quiet 
waters  at  Lewiston  or  below,  have  continued 
their  agitations,  and  preliminary  appropria- 
tions, and  elaborate  surveys — showing  three 
or  four  routes — have  been  made  by  Congress 
at  three  different  times.  The  project  so  far 
has  made  but  little  headway  towards  a  success- 
ful consideration.  Of  its  earliest  commercial 
history,  during  the  first  years  of  the  century, 
when  private  individuals  bought  the  land  ffom 
the  State  on  account  of  its  adjacent  water 
power,  and  established  here  a  village  which 
they  named  Manchester;  of  the  first  utiliza- 
tion of  a  portion  of  its  enormous  power  in  re- 
cent years  and  of  the  present  stupendous 
117 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

power  development  now  nearing  completion, 
we  cannot  treat  for  lack  of  space.  The  enor- 
mous development  of  power  and  its  electrical 
transmission,  with  all  that  this  has  already 
added  and  wrill  add  to  Niagara's  history,  are 
treated  of  elsewhere  in  this  volume. 

STATE    RESERVATION   AT    NIAGARA. 

In  1885,  after  some  years  of  public  agitation, 
the  State  of  New  York  acquired  Goat  Island 
and  the  territory  on  the  river  bank  adjacent 
to  the  Falls  and  for  a  half-mile  above  them, 
dedicating  it  by  its  ownership  as  free  forever 
to  the  world.  The  Province  of  Ontario  in 
1888  took  a  similar  course  on  the  Canadian 
side,  so  that  now  the  Falls  themselves  and  the 
adjacent  lands,  under  the  ownership  of  two 
friendly  nations,  are  forever  preserved  from 
any  real  defacement  of  their  scenery  by  com- 
mercial enterprises.  The  honor  of  first  sug- 
gesting this  preservation  of  the  scenery  has 
been  claimed  by  many  persons.  But  the  first 
real  suggestion,  though  made  without  details, 
came  from  two  Scotchmen,  Andrew  Reed  and 
James  Matheson,  who  in  1835,  in  a  volume  de- 
scribing their  visit  to  the  Congregational 
1x8 


THE   MAID    OF    THE   MIST. 
(Illustrating  the  Indian  legend. — From  a  painting?) 


HISTORIC   NIAGARA. 

churches  of  this  country,  first  broached  the 
idea  that  Niagara  should  "  be  deemed  the 
property  of  civilized  mankind." 

INDIAN    LORE. 

This  region  is  rich  in  Indian  lore  and  tra- 
dition (which  is  Indian  history)  never  yet  thor- 
oughly collected.  Commencing  far  back 
when  the  Neuter  nation,  or  more  probably 
an  earlier  race,  dwelt  hereabouts,  they  wor- 
shipped the  Great  Spirit  of  the  Falls,  their  wor- 
ship culminating  annually  in  the  sacrifice  of 
the  fairest  maiden  of  the  tribe  to  the  Great 
Spirit  of  Niagara,  sending  her  over  the  Falls 
in  a  white  canoe  laden  with  fruits  and  flowers; 
next,  their  inter-tribal  wars ;  later  on,  the  tem- 
porarily successful  but  ultimately  inevitable 
futile  attempt  of  the  Neuter  nation  to  main- 
tain a  neutral  existence;  the  use  of  Goat  Isl- 
and as  the  burying  ground  of  great  chiefs  and 
warriors,  and  their  adoration  of  the  island  be- 
cause of  such  use,  and  the  subsequent  annihila- 
tion of  the  Neuters  as  a  distinct  tribe  by  the 
Senecas,  form  an  unwritten  page  of  historic 

Niagara  which  will  probably  never  be  com- 
119 


THE   NIAGARA   BOOK. 

pleted  with  the  accuracy  that  its  importance 
demands. 

LOCAL    HISTORY. 

To  later  local  history  in  different  aspects,  we 
can  only  refer:  To  the  engineering  triumphs 
in  the  various  bridges  that  span  this  river  and 
the  attendant  benefits  to  this  region;  to  the 
famous  achievements  of  Blondin  and  others 
who  have  crossed  the  gorge  on  a  rope ;  to  the 
trip  made  by  the  Maid  of  the  Mist  in  1861, 
under  the  guidance  of  Joel  R.  Robinson  from 
Niagara  to  Lewiston — the  only  boat  that  has 
ever  successfully  done  so — proving,  so  far  as 
that  portion  of  the  river  is  concerned,  what  the 
courts  have  held,  that  the  Niagara  River 
throughout  its  entire  length  is  a  navigable 
stream ;  to  men  who,  like  Francis  Abbot,  have 
associated  their  names  with  the  Falls  in  one 
way,  or  like  Captain  Webb,  with  the  Rapids  in 
another  way;  to  the  fall  of  Table  Rock  in  1850, 
showing  to  this  generation  the  undermining 
process  by  which  Niagara  has  cut  the  gorge; 
or  to  the  numberless  fatalities  which  have  an- 
nually occurred,  some  by  accident,  some  in- 
tentionally. 

no 


HISTORIC  NIAGARA. 

Each  of  these  in  one  way  or  another  has 
tended  to  make  history,  and  to  point  out  lines 
of  thought  whose  deductions  must  benefit  fu- 
ture generations,  and  to  all  these  which  are 
necessarily  blended  with  Niagara's  history,  we 
can  but  refer  in  this  way. 

Such,  in  outline,  and  with  almost  brutal 
brevity,  is  the  foundation  for  that  great  work 
to  which  some  master  mind  will  some  day 
devote  its  energies,  and  produce,  to  its  own 
fame  and  to  the  benefit  of  international  litera- 
ture, a  work  whose  pages  shall  contain  events 
as  yet  imperfectly  recorded  and  whose  subject 
may  be  the  words  of  our  title,  Historic  Niagara. 


121 


BIRD  S-EYE    VIEW    OF    NIAGARA    RIVER. 


THE  GEOLOGY  OF    NIAGARA 
FALLS. 

BY  PROF.  N.  S.  SHALER, 

Dean  of  the  Lawrence  Scientific  School,  Harvard  University. 

The  effect  of  the  more  majestic  spectacles  of 
Nature  is  to  turn  the  mind  of  the  observer  away 
from  the  philosophy  of  the  events  which  he  is 
observing.  This  is  a  natural  and  wholesome 
action  of  all  splendid  things;  he  is  indeed  un- 
happy who  flies  at  once  to  speculation  as  to 
the  cause  of  that  which  he  for  the  first  time 
freely  beholds.  There  is,  however,  a  second 
stage  in  the  service  which  the  great  spectacles 
of  the  earth  can  do  for  us.  This  is  where  we 
seek  to  understand  the  ways  in  which  the  offer- 
ing is  made  to  our  souls.  The  well-trained 
naturalist,  indeed  any  one  who  is  attentive  to 
the  aesthetic  as  well  as  the  rational  opportuni- 
ties of  the  world,  learns  in  a  manner  to  com- 
bine these  impressions  which  may  come  to  him 
123 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

by  instinctive  appreciation  and  by  knowledge. 
To  him  the  beautiful  and  the  magnificent  are 
none  the  less  moving  because  he  sees  them  in 
the  perspective  of  history,  or  in  the  great  as- 
semblage of  causations.  It  is  the  fairest  prov- 
ince of  science  to  afford  these  accessories  of 
understanding  so  that  the  beauty  of  Nature 
may  make  a  deeper  impression  upon  the  mind 
of  man.  Its  work  should  in  no  wise  diminish 
our  perception  or  esteem  of  the  beautiful;  it 
should  in  fact  unite  these  motives  with  our 
ordinary  thought.  Therefore  it  seems  fit  that 
we  should  consider  the  lessons  which  may  be 
derived  from  a  study  of  this  great  waterfall. 

The  first  step  towards  the  comprehension  of 
any  such  feature  as  Niagara  Falls  should  lead 
the  student  to  an  understanding  of  a  general 
kind  as  to  the  range  of  the  phenomena  with 
which  it  is  allied.  We  will,  therefore,  begin 
our  inquiry  by  a  brief  consideration  as  to  the 
various  kinds  of  waterfalls,  and  the  conditions 
which  produce  them.  It  is  easy  to  recognize 
the  truth  that  all  streams  tend  to  form  con- 
tinuous and  uninterrupted  slopes  down  which 
their  waters  course  from  the  highlands  to  the 
sea.  It  is  to  this  principle,  indeed,  that  we 
124 


THE  GEOLOGY  OF  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

owe  the  fact  that  nearly  all  great  rivers  are 
freely  navigable,  and  the  most  of  the  lesser  are, 
for  the  greater  part  of  their  length,  fit  for  small 
boats.  Wherever  we  find  a  river  in  the  tumult 
of  a  waterfall  or  of  a  cascade  we  readily  note 
that  it  is  steadfastly  engaged  in  destroying  the 
obstruction,  and  that,  given  geologic  time 
enough,  it  will  wear  a  channel  down  which  its 
waters  may  glide  quietly  to  the  deep  whence 
they  came,  and  to  which  they  inevitably  re- 
turn. If  a  new  continent  should  be  elevated, 
and  rivers  formed  upon  it,  they  would  quickly 
develop  a  host  of  waterfalls.  If  the  continent 
were  high  it  would  be  a  land  of  cascades. 
Gradually,  as  the  land  became  older,  these 
barriers  in  the  way  of  the  descending  water 
would  be  worn  away.  With  the  formation  of 
each  mountain  system,  however,  or  with  the 
occurrence  of  other  accidents,  such  as  those 
which  are  brought  about  by  a  glacial  period, 
the  paths  of  the  streams  would  be  disturbed, 
and  the  rivers  would  once  again  have  to  con- 
tend with  obstructions  which  they  seek  to  re- 
move. Philosophical  geographers  now  recog- 
nize the  fact  that  the  presence  of  waterfalls  in 
a  country  means  that  the  topography  is,  in  a 
125 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

geological  sense,  new;  that  the  region  has 
either  recently  been  uplifted  from  the  sea,  or 
has,  not  long  ago,  undergone  considerable 
revolutions,  which  have  changed  the  shape  of 
its  surface. 

Among  the  many  different  conditions  which 
produce  cataracts,  we  may  note  the  following 
groups,  which  include  the  greater  part  of  these, 
accidents :  In  mountain  districts  small  streams 
gathering  in  the  tablelands  or  upland  valleys 
often  encounter  a  precipice  down  which  they 
find  their  way  in  successive  leaps.  The  cliffs 
over  which  they  tumble  are  not,  as  is  the  case 
at  Niagara,  the  product  of  the  stream's  action, 
but  have  generally  been  formed  by  a  fault  or 
a  break  in  the  rocks,  the  strata  on  one  side  of 
the  disruption  having  been  lifted  so  that  a  wall- 
like  escarpment  is  created.  In  other  cases 
the  valley  has  been  deeply  carved  by  a  stream 
of  fluid  or  of  frozen  water,  a  river  or  a  glacier. 
Waterfalls  of  this  nature,  though  rarely  of 
great  volume,  afford  the  most  beautiful  and 
highest  cascades  in  the  world.  Those  of  the 
Yosemite  Valley,  or  of  Lauterbrunnen,  in 
Switzerland,  are  excellent  examples  of  this 
kind. 

126 


THE  GEOLOGY  OF  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

Wherever  a  stream,  be  it  small  or  great,  en- 
counters in  its  course  conditions  in  which  it 
passes  from  a  hard  to  a  soft  rock,  or  rather 
we  should  say  from  strata  which  it  does  not 
easily  attack  to  other  deposits  which  are  read- 
ily worn  away,  the  change  is  commonly 
marked  by  a  rapid  or  waterfall.  This  altera- 
tion may  be  due  to  any  one  of  many  causes. 
Commonly  it  is  brought  about  by  a  dike,  or 
fissure  filled  with  volcanic  rock,  which  lies 
across  the  channel  of  the  river.  In  our  lime- 
stone rocks  an  ancient  coral  reef,  buried  in  the 
strata,  may  produce  a  considerable  cascade. 
The  Falls  of  the  Ohio  at  Louisville  are  due  to 
the  fact  that  such  an  ancient  reef  lies  athwart 
the  path  of  that  river. 

Along  the  seashore  wherever  the  waves 
have  carved,  as  they  often  do,  an  overhanging 
steep,  the  streams,  which  may  originally  have 
flowed  down  gently  declining  beds,  tumble 
over  precipices,  sometimes  falling,  as  on  the 
north  shore  of  the  Island  of  Anticosti,  directly 
into  the  ocean.  In  all  such  cases  we  may  as- 
sume that  the  cliffs  have  been  driven  backward 
into  the  land  by  the  effect  of  the  surges. 

By  far  the  commonest  origin  of  waterfalls  is 
127 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

to  be  found  where  horizontal  stratified  rocks 
arranged  in  alternating  beds  of  hard  and  soft 
character  are  flowed  over  by  a  considerable 
stream.  In  these  conditions  the  bed  of  the 
river  is  apt  to  lie  on  one  of  the  hard  layers  upon 
which  it  courses  until  it  cuts  the  layer  through; 
then  encountering  the  underlying  soft  mate- 
rials it  quickly  wears  them  away  down  to  the 
level  of  the  next  resisting  stratum,  where  the 
process  is  repeated,  forming,  it  may  be,  a 
dozen  steps  of  descent  in  the  course  of  a  few 
miles.  Each  of  the  "  treads  "  of  such  a  stair- 
way is  apt  to  be  many  times  as  wide  as  the  fall 
is  high;  but  where  the  river  has  a  great  volume 
the  down  rush  of  water  is  apt  to  break  up  the 
lower-lying  harder  layers  so  that  one  great  fall 
is  produced.  The  reader  will  do  well  to  see 
the  beautiful  system  of  step  cascades  known  as 
Trenton  Falls,  where  West  Canada  Creek  de- 
scends from  the  highland  about  its  source 
through  a  beautiful  gorge  of  its  own  carving 
in  many  successive  leaps. 

The  foregoing  brief  story  concerning  the 
natural  history  of  waterfalls  has  led  us  to  the 
point  where  we  may  begin  our  inquiries  con- 
cerning the  genesis  of  Niagara.    This  fall  be- 
128 


tf    .£ 


8 < 
*  i 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

longs  to  the  last-mentioned  group  of  cascades, 
that  in  which  the  course  of  the  river  is  deter- 
mined in  a  great  measure  by  the  diverse  resist- 
ance which  horizontally-imbedded  rocks  op- 
posed to  the  wearing  action  of  the  water.  In 
order,  however,  to  face  the  many  interesting 
questions  which  this  river  and  fall  present  to 
the  naturalist,  we  must  ask  the  reader  at  the 
outset  to  obtain  a  clear  idea  as  to  the  condi- 
tions of  the  valley  of  the  stream  from  the  point 
where  it  leaves  Lake  Erie  to  that  where  it 
enters  Lake  Ontario.  The  ideal  way  to  obtain 
this  impression  would  be  to  view  the  country 
from  the  summit  of  a  tower  having  a  height 
of  five  hundred  feet  or  more,  standing  at  a 
point  near  the  present  line  of  the  falls.  It  is 
indeed  most  desirable  from  the  point  of  view 
of  the  teacher,  as  well  as  others  who  love  wide 
views,  that  such  a  "  coign  of  vantage  "  should 
be  constructed.  In  passing,  we  may  remark 
that  such  an  outlook  would  enable  the  ob- 
server to  command  the  whole  field  of  nearly 
level  country  from  lake  to  lake.  The  student 
would  thus  be  able  to  perceive  directly  what  he 
can  only  otherwise  infer  from  the  maps  and 
bird's-eye  views.  Using,  however,  these  last- 
130 


THE  GEOLOGY  OF  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

named  means  of  illustration,  we  readily  ob- 
serve the  following  facts  concerning  the  course 
of  Niagara  River.  We  follow  the  prevailing 
fashion  in  terming  this  stream  a  river.  It  is, 
in  fact,  a  mere  strait  connecting  two  fresh- 
water seas,  the  one  lying  about  three  hundred 
feet  above  the  other. 

Near  its  point  of  exit  from  Lake  Erie  the 
stream  passes  over  a  low  uplift  of  the  strata 
which  somewhat  interrupts  its  flow.  A  little 
way  on  in  its  path  the  tide  is  divided,  enclosing 
a  large  island  and  some  smaller  isles.  Its 
movement  is  slow,  and  in  general  the  condition 
of  the  stream  and  its  banks  reminds  one  of  the 
lower  parts  of  a  great  river  where  it  is  about 
to  enter  the  sea.  The  striking  feature  is  that, 
from  Lake  Erie  to  Goat  Island,  the  stream  has 
no  distinct  valley.  It  has  evidently  done  none 
of  that  downward  carving  which  is  so  con- 
spicuous a  feature  in  the  work  of  all  ordinary 
rivers  where  they  flow  at  a  considerable  height 
above  the  ocean's  level.  In  part  this  absence 
of  a  valley  is  to  be  accounted  for  by  the  abso- 
lute purity  of  the  water.  Ordinary  rivers  bear 
much  sediment,  the  coarser  parts  of  which  are 
driven  along  the  bottom,  continuously  though 
131 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

slightly  wearing  the  bed-rock  away  as  they  rub 
over  it;  but  in  the  Niagara  all  these  sediments 
which  the  streams  bring  from  the  uplands  are 
deposited  in  the  chain  of  the  Great  Lakes. 

At  Goat  Island  the  conditions  are  suddenly 
changed.  In  the  rapids  and  in  the  main  falls 
the  river  descends  about  two  hundred  feet  into 
a  deep  gorge,  through  which  it  flows  as  far  as 
Lewiston  in  a  more  or  less  tumultuous  man- 
ner. At  this  point  the  channel  passes  through 
the  escarpment  which  borders  the  southern 
margin  of  Lake  Ontario.  Here  it  ceases  to 
flow  as  rapidly  as  before,  the  tide  of  waters 
finding  ample  room  in  the  deep  channel  for  a 
leisurely  journey  to  the  lower  lake. 

The  gorge  of  the  Niagara,  though  deep,  is 
very  narrow;  to  the  eye  of  the  trained  observer 
it  appears  almost  as  unlike  an  ordinary  river 
valley  as  is  the  path  of  the  stream  above  the 
cataract.  Everywhere  the  walls  are  steep; 
there  is  no  trace  of  the  alluvial  plain  which 
normally  borders  great  rivers ;  nor  do  we  find 
the  slope  of  country  toward  the  edge  of  the 
cliff  which  is  so  characteristic  of  ordinary  val- 
leys. This  depression,  indeed,  is  a  true  canon, 
a  trough  carved  by  a  main  stream  without  any 
132 


THE   GEOLOGY  OF  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

coincident  work  of  erosion  effected  by  the  rain, 
frost,  and  water-courses  operating  on  either 
side  of  its  path.  These  features  have  led 
geologists,  as  they  well  may  lead  any  intelli- 
gent observer,  to  the  conclusion  that  the  Niag- 
ara River  is  from  beginning  to  end  a  new-made 
stream;  a  watercourse  which  originated  not  as 
most  of  our  American  rivers  have  in  remote 
ages,  but  in  the  geological  yesterday.  The 
reason  for  this  sudden  coming  into  existence 
of  the  Niagara,  the  steps  which  led  to  its 
invention,  are  now  undergoing  a  very  careful 
discussion  through  the  labors  of  several  able 
geologists.*  Although  there  is  much  which 
is  still  doubtful  concerning  the  history  of  this 
singular  stream,  a  great  deal  of  interest  has 
been  well  ascertained.  The  outlines  of  this 
matter  we  will  now  endeavor  to  set  before  the 
reader. 

In  endeavoring  to  comprehend  the  history 

*The  literature  concerning  the  problems  of  the  Niagara 
River  is  abundant,  but  widely  scattered.  The  ablest  single 
contribution  to  the  subject  is  by  Mr.  G.  K.  Gilbert,  Geologist 
U.  S.  Geological  survey.  It  is  contained  in  the  sixth  annual 
report  of  the  Commissioners  of  the  State  Reservation  at  Ni- 
agara, for  the  year  1889. — Albany,  James  B.  Lyon,  Printer, 
1890.  References  to  various  other  treatises  on  the  subject  may 
be  found  in  the  foot-note  of  that  paper. 
133 


THE  GEOLOGY  OF  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

of  Niagara,  it  is  necessary  to  take  account  of 
the  singular  conditions  presented  by  the  great 
valley  in  which  it  lies.  The  St.  Lawrence  is 
on  some  accounts  the  most  curious  of  all  the 
great  vales  which  geographers  have  had  an 
opportunity  to  study.  The  most  of  the  river- 
basins  in  the  world  have  their  boundaries  de- 
fined by  a  considerable  elevation.  If,  here  and 
there,  they  have  a  low  side  over  which  we  may 
pass  to  a  neighboring  valley  without  travers- 
ing a  decided  water-shed,  the  partial  breach  of 
the  boundaries  is  very  limited  in  its  length.  In 
the  St.  Lawrence  valley,  however,  from  the 
lower  end  of  Lake  Ontario  to  the  mouth  of 
Lake  Superior,  the  basin  on  its  southern  side 
is  but  ill-defined. 

The  low,  broad  ridge  which  separates  the 
drainage  from  that  of  the  streams  which  flow 
into  the  Hudson,  or  into  the  Mississippi,  is 
frequently  breached  by  depressions  through 
which  the  waters  belonging  to  the  Great  Lakes 
system  may  readily  be  discharged  whenever 
their  elevation  is  considerably  altered,  or  when 
by  chance  a  barrier  is  interposed  to  their  exit 
through  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence.  Accidents 
of  this  description  have  been  probably  of  fre- 
135 


TEE  NIAGARA.  BOOK. 

quent  occurrence,  so  that  from  time  to  time 
the  geographical  relations  of  these  waters  have 
been  greatly  changed. 

The  Great  Lakes  of  the  St.  Lawrence  valley 
were  probably  in  existence  before  the  last 
glacial  period,  though  they  were  doubtless  ex- 
tended and  somewhat  modified  in  form  by  the 
wearing  of  the  rocks  which  occurred  in  that 
wonderful  age.  With  the  beginning  of  the 
glacial  period  the  ice-sheet  of  eastern  North 
America,  which  is  now  limited  to  Greenland, 
rapidly  extended  its  bounds  over  the  land  to 
the  northward  of  the  Great  Lakes.  It  soon 
filled  their  basins,  and  extended  southward 
until  its  margin  attained  the  Ohio  River  where 
Cincinnati  now  stands,  and  lay  over  the  head- 
waters of  all  the  valleys  of  the  streams  which 
pour  from  the  South  into  the  Great  Lakes.  It 
is  easy  to  see  that  such  an  ice-sheet  having  the 
depth  of  a  mile  or  more  would  profoundly  dis- 
turb the  drainage  of  these  rivers.  In  its  ad- 
vance it  would  first  create  a  dam  across  the 
waters  of  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  compelling 
the  lakes  to  rise  until  they  discharged  through 
some  of  the  low  places  on  their  southern 
boundary;  next  it  must  have  filled  their  basins 
136 


s 


a  -a 
rt   w 

el 


e  c 

5  if 

2     3 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

with  ice,  and  deepened  the  sheet  until  its  sur- 
face lay  thousands  of  feet  above  their  floor. 
We  cannot  trace  the  history  of  these  altera- 
tions which  the  advance  of  the  glacial  envelope 
brought  upon  this  field  of  land  and  water.  But 
the  steps  in  the  alterations  may  be  inferred 
from  what  happened  when  the  envelope  re- 
treated stage  by  stage  until  it  vanished  from 
the  continent,  or  at  least  from  the  part  of  the 
field  with  which  we  are  concerned.  For  a  time 
the  barrier  lay  in  such  a  position  that  the 
waters  of  the  lakes  below  Superior  were 
barred  out  from  the  passage  of  Niagara,  flow- 
ing over  into  the  valley  of  the  Ohio  through 
a  channel  passing  by  the  site  of  the  City  of 
Fort  Wayne,  and  thence  into  the  Wabash 
River.  This  old  waterway  has  been  preserved 
with  unmistakable  clearness.  With  the  further 
retreat  of  the  ice-front  to  the  northeastward, 
the  line  of  the  barrier  was  withdrawn  to  near 
the  present  mouth  of  Lake  Ontario,  where  it 
flows  into  the  St.  Lawrence  River.  At  this 
time  the  level  of  the  Great  Lakes  was  lowered 
by  successive  stages,  though  on  the  whole 
rather  suddenly,  to  the  amount  of  five  hun- 
dred and  fifty  feet. 

138 


THE   GEOLOGY   OF  NIAGARA   FALLS. 

With  the  last  mentioned  condition  of  the  ice- 
barrier  the  exit  of  the  Great  Lakes  changed  to 
a  path  which  led  through  Central  New  York, 
down  the  valley  of  the  Mohawk  River.  The 
channel  still  shows  the  marks  of  the  great  tide 
of  water,  probably  as  great  in  its  volume  as 
that  which  now  passes  Niagara  Falls.  Those 
who  journey  by  the  New  York  Central  Rail- 
way to  and  from  Albany  may  note  at  Little 
Falls  the  broad  gorge  of  the  sometime  great 
river  which  is  now  occupied  by  a  relatively 
small  stream.  It  might  be  supposed  that  at 
this  stage  the  observer  would  have  found  the 
Niagara  River  flowing  in  somewhere  near  its 
present  position.  But  here  comes  in  one  of 
the  extraordinary  accidents  of  that  period  of 
geographic  wonders,  the  great  Ice  Age. 
When  the  ice  lay  over  the  country  to  the  north 
of  the  Great  Lakes,  the  part  of  the  continent 
which  it  occupied  appears  to  have  been  borne 
down  by  the  weight  of  the  mass  in  such  a  man- 
ner that  it  sloped  to  the  northward  at  the  rate 
of  two  or  three  feet  to  the  mile.  The  result 
was  that  the  basin  of  Lake  Erie  was  to  a  great 
extent  dry,  and  that  of  Lake  Huron  did  not 
connect  across  to  the  southward  through  Lake 
139 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

St.  Clair,  but  through  Georgian  Bay,  and 
thence  by  a  channel  occupying  the  site  of  the 
Trent  River  to  the  northern  part  of  Lake  On- 
tario. At  a  yet  later  stage,  when  the  ice-bar- 
rier was  still  further  withdrawn,  so  that  the 
channel  of  the  St.  Lawrence  was  open,  another 
channel  was  found  by  way  of  the  Ottawa 
River,  so  that  the  upper  lakes  no  longer  emp- 
tied by  way  of  Lake  Ontario. 

After  the  ice  passed  completely  away  from 
this  part  of  the  country,  the  land  recovered 
from  its  southward  down-tilting.  Lake  Erie 
regained  its  waters,  and  the  tide  from  Lakes 
Michigan  and  Huron  began  to  flow,  as  at  pres- 
ent, by  way  of  the  Detroit  River  and  Lake  St. 
Clair.  This  was  probably  the  age  when  the 
present  Niagara  River  came  into  existence. 
We  have  already  noted  the  fact  that  as  a  whole 
the  valley  of  the  Niagara,  both  above  and  be- 
low the  Falls,  appears  to  be  a  piece  of  stream- 
carving  done  in  very  modern  times.  Although 
it  doubtless  antedates  the  earliest  chapters  of 
human  history  of  which  we  have  any  written 
records,  it  almost  certainly  is  newer  than  the 
records  of  man  which  we  find  written  in  cer- 
tain ancient  art-remains,  such  as  those  which 
140 


THE  GEOLOGY  OF  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

were  found  with  the  Calaveras  skull  in  Cali- 
fornia. The  stream  may  have  begun  its  work 
not  more  than  ten  thousand  years  ago.  It 
appears,  however,  that  there  was  a  pre-glacial 
Niagara. 

If  the  reader  will  go  to  the  cliff  which  bor- 
ders the  lowland  along  the  lake,  a  precipice 
carved  at  some  period  when  Lake  Ontario  was 
higher  than  at  present,  and  walk  westward 
from  the  river,  he  will  observe  that  at  the  town 
of  St.  David's,  a  few  miles  west  of  Queenston, 
the  cliffs  turn  inland  in  a  way  which  indicates 
that  here  of  old  was  a  valley  through  which  a 
great  river  found  its  way  to  the  lake.  Going 
southward  to  the  site  of  the  Whirlpool  we  find 
there  a  point  where,  and  where  alone,  the 
steep  rocky  walls  of  the  Niagara  canon  fail,  and 
their  place  is  taken  by  heaps  of  drift  material, 
evidently  brought  to  its  present  site  by  the  ice 
of  the  glacial  time  which  here,  as  in  many  other 
regions,  filled  the  pre-glacial  valleys  with  de- 
tritus. In  the  opinion  of  those  who  have  most 
attentively  studied  the  problem,  there  was  an 
old  Niagara  River  extending  a  part  of  its  chan- 
nel from  St.  David's  to  the  Whirlpool,  and 
probably  from  that  point  along  much  the  same 
141 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

line  as  the  present  stream  toward  the  existing 
Falls.  It  is  possible,  however,  that  this  old 
channel  may  have  bent  away  to  the  west  from 
the  Whirlpool,  and  attained  Lake  Erie  at  some 
unknown  point.  If  the  old  channel  entered 
the  present  Niagara  gorge  at  the  pool  we  have 
to  assume  that  when  the  stream,  long  dispos- 
sessed by  the  glacier,  was  permitted  again  to 
flow,  it  found  the  channel  to  St.  David's  so 
completely  filled  that  it  was  easier  to  plunge 
over  the  Queenston  bluff  at  a  new  point,  and 
thence  in  the  retreat  of  the  Falls  to  carve  the 
canon  back  to  its  present  site.  It  may  be  that 
a  part  of  the  channel  above  the  enlargement  at 
the  Whirlpool  was  also  carved  in  the  old  pre- 
glacial  days,  filled  in  with  glacial  waste,  and 
afterwards  swept  clear  of  the  obstruction  by 
the  mighty  stream. 

To  the  reader  who  has  paid  no  attention  to 
the  geographic  changes  which  were  produced 
in  the  last  ice  time,  such  alterations  in  the  path 
of  a  river  may  seem  most  improbable.  The 
geologist,  however,  knows  that  these  have 
been  among  the  commoner  incidents  in  this 
chapter  of  the  earth's  history.  Hardly  any  of 
the  considerable  streams  which  existed  within 
142 


THE   GEOLOGY  OF  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

the  glaciated  field  before  the  advent  of  the  ice 
escaped  such  perturbation.  We  could  in  an 
a  priori  way  predict  that  a  stream  lying  in  the 
position  of  the  Niagara  River,  where  the 
amount  of  glacial  waste  deposited  on  the  sur- 
face was  very  great,  would  be  so  far  effaced  by 
detritus  that  when  the  tide  again  began  to 
flow,  a  portion  at  least  of  its  channel  would  de- 
part from  its  primitive  position.  In  fact, 
among  the  many  detailed  inquiries  which  the 
geologist  has  a  chance  to  make  in  the  old 
glacial  fields,  there  are  few  which  are  more 
interesting  and,  indeed,  more  perplexing  than 
these  which  concern  the  relation  of  the  ancient 
and  existing  river  valleys. 

From  this  general  and  rather  wide  consider- 
ation of  the  Niagara  problem,  which  has 
brought  us  in  face  of  some  of  the  majestic  ac- 
tions of  the  past,  we  may  now  profitably  turn 
to  the  detailed  phenomena  exhibited  in  the 
Falls  and  in  the  gorge  between  them  and 
Queenston.  The  student  will  do  well  to  begin 
these  inquiries  by  a  journey  to  the  Cave  of  the 
Winds,  where,  penetrating  behind  a  thin  strip 
of  the  falling  water,  he  can  see  something  of 
the  condition  of  the  steep  over  which  the  cata- 
143 


THE  GEOLOGY  OF  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

ract  plunges.  He  should  also  observe  the 
rocks  in  the  faces  of  the  cliffs  below  the  Falls. 
He  will  readily  note  the  fact  that  the  top  of  the 
precipice  is  occupied  by  a  somewhat  massive 
limestone.  This  rock  is,  it  is  true,  divided  by 
joints  into  large  blocks,  but  these  are  hard,  and 
are  not  much  worn  by  the  clean  water  which  at 
the  margin  of  the  escarpment  shoots  clear  of 
their  face. 

Below  this  limestone,  which  is  extensively 
developed  in  New  York  and  in  the  adjacent 
parts  of  the  continent,  and  which  most  prop- 
erly bears  the  name  of  "  Niagara  Limestone," 
there  is  a  less  considerable  thickness  of  thin- 
layered  shaley  beds  known  as  the  "  Niagara 
Shale."  Yet  below  lie  beds  of  the  Clinton  Age, 
composed  of  somewhat  coherent  limestone 
and  shaley  sandstone.  At  the  base  of  the  sec- 
tion of  the  Falls  and  steep,  occupying  more 
than  half  of  its  height,  are  the  beds  of  the  Me- 
dina formation,  mostly  made  up  of  rather  frail 
sandstones  and  thin  reddish  shaley  layers. 
From  what  the  reader  can  see  in  the  Cave  of 
the  Winds,  and  what  he  can  readily  infer  by 
observing  the  rocks  bared  in  the  cliffs  near  the 

Falls,  he  will  readily  understand  that  the  Niag- 
10  145 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

ara  Limestone  is  the  rock  which  takes  the 
brunt  of  the  work  required  in  maintaining  the 
precipice  down  which  its  river  plunges.  He 
will  see  also  that  this  hard  edge  of  the  cliff  pro- 
jects beyond  its  base,  thus  giving  free  room  for 
the  fall  to  descend  unbroken  to  the  level  of  the 
stream  below,  and  thence  downward  in  the  tu- 
mult of  waters  to  the  river  bed  to  a  greater 
depth  than  the  visible  face  of  the  Falls. 

From  time  to  time  as  abundant  general  ob- 
servations and  accurate  surveys  show,  the 
Niagara  cornice  of  the  wall  is  so  far  left  un- 
supported by  the  more  rapid  wearing  of  the 
lower-lying  softer  beds  that  it  breaks  down  by 
its  own  weight  and  falls  in  ruins  to  the  base  of 
the  submerged  cliff  at  the  foot  of  the  cascade. 
In  this  position  we  cannot  see  what  becomes 
of  the  debris,  but  from  what  we  may  readily 
observe  at  other  points  we  can  make  some  in- 
teresting and  trustworthy  inferences.  Along 
many  rivers  the  student  of  such  phenomena 
can  find  places  where  ancient  cataracts  have 
left  their  bases  bare  by  the  shrinkage  or  di- 
version of  the  streams  which  produced  them; 
thus,  at  Little  Falls  on  the  Mohawk,  which,  as 
before  noted,  was  once  the  path  of  exit  of  the 
146 


THE   GEOLOGY   OF  NIAGARA   FALLS. 

Great  Lake  waters,  there  was  in  the  olden  day 
a  great  cataract,  the  most  of  which  is  now 
above  the  level  of  the  shrunken  river.  Here 
we  find  the  rocks  once  trodden  by  the  fall  ex- 
cavated in  great  well-like  "  pot-holes,"  some  of 
which  are  ten  feet  or  more  in  diameter,  and 
with  more  than  that  depth.  Each  of  these 
cavities  has  evidently  been  carved  out  by  the 
bits  of  hard  rock  which  the  stream  brought 
into  them,  the  fragments  having  been  made  to 
journey  round  and  round  in  a  circle,  forming 
what  is  often  a  dome-shaped  chamber,  widen- 
ing toward  its  base.  Such  whirling  move- 
ments of  water  may  be  Observed  in  a  miniature 
way  where  a  stream  from  a  hydrant  falls  into  a 
basin.  The  base  of  the  Niagara  cliff  is  doubt- 
less under-cut  in  the  manner  above  described, 
the  graving  tools  being  the  hard  fragments 
which  fall  from  its  upper  parts. 

As  we  may  behold  in  the  Cave  of  the  Winds, 
the  whirlings  of  the  water-laden  air  and  jets  of 
spray  tend  somewhat  to  soften  and  dissolve  the 
layers  of  the  shale,  and  thus  to  bring  about 
that  recession  of  the  face  which  causes  the 
limestone  to  jut  beyond  the  base  of  the  preci- 
pice. Beneath  the  level  of  the  stream  the  vio- 
147 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

lent  swayings  of  the  tormented  water,  beaten 
by  the  strokes  of  the  Falls,  doubtless  serve  yet 
more  effectively  to  erode  the  soft  rocks  of  the 
Medina  formations.  These  actions  coopera- 
ting with  the  pot-holing  work  keep  the  cliff 
ever  retreating  at  its  base  at  a  little  greater 
rate  than  at  its  summit,  the  limestone  capstone 
falling  only  when  the  excavation  beneath  de- 
nies it  effective  support.  In  the  above  de- 
scribed features  Niagara  Falls  are  in  no  sense 
peculiar.  There  are  probably  within  two  hun- 
dred miles  of  their  site  over  fifty  cascades 
which  have  been  engendered  and  maintained 
by  the  same  simple  conditions  of  an  upper  hard 
layer  and  lower-lying  more  easily  worn  strata. 
It  should  be  remarked,  however,  that  the 
greater  the  height  down  which  the  plunge  of 
water  takes  place,  and  the  larger  its  volume, 
the  more  vigorous  is  the  assault  upon  the  base 
of  the  cliff  through  the  development  of  pot- 
hole excavations  and  the  lashing  which  the 
troubled  waters  apply  to  the  rocks.  But  for 
the  fact  that  the  tide  of  Niagara,  though  of 
vast  volume,  is  perfectly  clean,  the  retreat  of 
the  Falls  precipice  towards  Lake  Erie  would 
have  been  far  more  rapid  than  under  the  exist- 
148 


THE   GEOLOGY   OF  NIAGARA   FALLS. 

ing  conditions.  If,  in  place  of  the  marvellously 
pure  lake  water,  the  turbid  stream  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi poured  down  this  steep,  the  scouring 
action  of  the  tumult  beneath  the  fall  would 
produce  a  vast  increase  of  erosion.  In  these 
assumed  conditions  it  might  well  be  that  the 
observer  would  find  some  sorry  remnant  of 
this  great  cascade  far  to  the  southward  of  its 
present  position,  perhaps  within  the  limits  of 
what  is  now  Lake  Erie.  The  difference  in  the 
effect  of  pure  and  turbid  water,  when  forced 
against  hard  rocks,  may  be  judged  by  the  fact 
that  while  a  glass  window  may  be  washed  with 
a  hydrant  stream  for  an  indefinite  period  with- 
out mark  of  abrasion,  a  similar  stream  of  very 
turbid  water  will  in  a  short  time  bring  about 
a  noticeable  scratching  of  the  glass. 

We  are  now  in  a  position  to  understand  how 
it  is  that  the  Falls  have  cut  their  way  back 
through  the  great  distance  which  separates 
them  from  the  Queenston  bluff  over  which  the 
river  flowed  when  it  was  first  made  free  to  fol- 
low its  present  course.  It  is  a  fine  tour  of 
the  imagination  to  conceive  how  in  some  day 
after  the  ice  age,  when  the  country  had  as- 
sumed the  elevation  and  attitude  which  re- 
149 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

quired  the  development  of  the  second  Niagara 
River,  the  waters  broke  over  the  barrier  near 
Buffalo,  sweeping  across  the  gently  sloping 
country  to  the  Queenston  cliffs,  there  plung- 
ing down  in  what  was  at  first  a  broken  cataract 
rather  than  a  fall,  into  the  lowlands  about  On- 
tario, or  it  may  have  been  directly  into  the 
waters  of  the  lake,  then  more  elevated  than 
now.  Very  quickly  the  undercutting  process 
above  described  must  have  converted  the  cata- 
ract into  a  vertical  fall.  In  a  few  score  years 
the  process  of  retreat  of  the  steep  over  whic11 
the  water  fell  must  have  begun  the  excavation 
of  the  great  gorge.  It  may  help  the  reader 
to  conceive  the  advance  of  the  process  to  im- 
agine a  great  auger  boring  away  upon  some 
soft  material,  the  tool  while  turning  being 
drawn  slowly  across  the  surface.  In  the  simili- 
tude, the  whirling  waters  at  the  base  of  the  cas- 
cade, with  their  armament  of  stones,  represent 
the  auger,  and  the  wide  field  of  strata  which 
have  been  carved  the  material  which  is  bored 
by  the  moving  tool. 

For  many  years  geologists,  who  are  ever 
trying  to  measure  the  duration  of  the  past, 
have  endeavored  to  compute  the  time  which 
150 


THE   SOLDIERS     MONUMENT- 


THE   GEOLOGY   OF  NIAGARA   FALLS. 

has  elapsed  since  the  excavation  of  the  gorge 
below  Niagara  Falls  began.  It  seemed  at  first 
likely  that  the  time  occupied  in  this  great  work 
might  be  reckoned  in  a  somewhat  definite  way. 
Long  ago  it  became  evident  that  the  Falls 
were  slowly  advancing  up  the  river  through 
the  undermining  of  their  base  and  the  conse- 
quent crumbling  of  the  overhanging  limestone 
at  the  foot  of  the  precipice.  In  1842  Dr. 
James  Hall  made  a  careful  map  showing  the 
position  of  the  different  parts  of  the  Falls 
which  were  referred  to  monuments  from  which 
subsequent  surveys  could  do  work  that  would 
afford  a  basis  for  comparisons.  A  third  of  a 
century  later  another  survey  was  made  by 
officers  of  the  U.  S.  Engineers.  In  1886  Mr. 
R.  S.  Woodward  made  yet  another  careful 
map  of  the  region.  It  now  appears,  however, 
according  to  Mr.  G.  K.  Gilbert,  that  one  or 
more  of  these  delineations  is  somewhat  in 
error,  for  at  certain  places  the  outline  of  the 
front  projects  beyond  the  position  indicated  by 
Hall's  survey.  After  a  careful  consideration 
of  these  discrepancies,  Mr.  Gilbert  says: 
"  Nevertheless  a  critical  study,  not  merely  of 
the  bare  lines  on  the  chart,  but  also  of  the  fuller 


THE   GEOLOGY   OF  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

data  in  the  surveyor's  notes,  leads  to  the  belief 
that  the  rate  of  recession  in  the  central  part  of 
the  Horse  Shoe  Fall  is  approximately  deter- 
mined, and  that  it  is  somewhere  between  four 
feet  and  six  feet  per  annum.  The  amount  of 
falling  away  at  the  sides  of  the  Horse  Shoe  is 
not  well  determined,  but  this  is  of  less  import- 
ance, for  such  falling  away  affects  the  width  of 
the  gorge  rather  than  its  length,  and  it  is  the 
length  with  which  we  are  concerned." 

If  we  could  assume  that  all  the  cutting  of  the 
gorge  from  the  Falls  to  Queenston  had  been 
done  since  the  stage  in  the  retreat  of  the  ice 
sheet  when  the  river,  as  we  now  know  it,  began 
to  flow,  it  would  seem  to  be  an  easy  matter  to 
make  an  approximate  computation  as  to  the 
length  of  time  which  had  been  required  to  ef- 
fect the  task.  As  yet,  however,  we  must  hesi- 
tate to  make  an  assertion,  and,  following  the 
example  of  Mr.  Gilbert,  regard  the  problem  as 
one  which  demands  a  far  more  careful  study 
than  it  has  as  yet  received  before  a  judgment 
can  properly  be  given.  It  is  in  a  high  degree 
improbable  that  the  rate  of  retreat  in  the  last 
forty  years  is  anywhere  near  an  average  of  the 
movement  since  the  excavation  of  the  canon 
153 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

began.  Between  the  Falls  and  Queenston  the 
rocks  which  have  been  cut  through,  though  of 
a  tolerably  uniform  nature,  have  here  and 
there  local  peculiarities  which  may  have 
greatly  accelerated  the  rate  at  which  the  Falls 
have  worked  upstream.  The  height  of  the 
Falls  has  altered  in  this  movement,  and  it  is 
very  probable  that  the  volume  of  water  may 
have  been  subjected  to  considerable  changes 
through  the  alterations  of  climate  which  have 
attended  the  passing  away  of  the  glacial  sheet. 
In  addition  to  these  evident  sources  of  error 
there  are  others  connected  with  the  irregular 
tilting  movements  of  this  part  of  the  continent 
which,  as  before  noticed,  have  perturbed  the 
drainage  since  the  close  of  the  time  when  the 
ice-sheet  lay  over  the  basin  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence. 

At  present  it  is  tolerably  safe  to  reckon  the 
rate  of  retreat  of  Niagara  Falls  at  about  five 
hundred  feet  in  a  century.  The  reader  may, 
if  he  pleases,  assume  that  this  is  a  fair  measure 
of  the  speed  with  which  the  cascade  has 
worked  back  from  the  Queenston  escarpment ; 
but  if  he  makes  the  computation  he  should  re- 
gard it  as  amusing  rather  than  instructive 
154 


THE   GEOLOGY   OF  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

work.  It  is  evident,  however,  that  in  the  course 
of  a  thousand  years  the  Fall  is  likely  to  be 
about  a  mile  nearer  Lake  Erie  than  it  is  at 
present. 

It  is  most  probable  that  long  before  this 
planet  has  dispensed  with  the  presence  of  man, 
and  before  any  geological  or  geographical 
changes  have  effaced  this  land,  the  question 
will  have  to  be  met  whether  our  successors 
shall  permit  the  recession  of  the  Falls  to  bring 
about  the  draining  of  Lake  Erie  and  the  ad- 
jacent waters.  In  the  illumination  of  that 
time,  indeed  we  may  say  in  the  light  of  our 
own,  it  will  not  appear  difficult  to  arrest  this 
natural  development  by  which  the  recession  of 
the  cascade  tends  to  drain  away  the  lake  from 
which  its  waters  flow.  New  channels  can  be 
excavated  which  will  divert  the  stream  to  some 
point  on  the  line  of  the  canon  where  a  fresh 
field  of  excavation  can  be  provided  for  the 
cataract;  or  if  it  seems  worth  while,  an  excava- 
tion can  be  made  beneath  the  stream  at  a  point 
above  the  Falls,  and  a  hard  masonry  support 
provided  for  the  Niagara  limestone,  which,  as 
we  have  noted,  forms  the  cornice  over  which 
the  water  plunges. 

155 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

If  we  may  judge  the  motives  of  the  future 
by  those  of  the  present,  the  decision  as  to  the 
eventual  fate  of  Niagara  will  rest  upon  eco- 
nomic considerations.  Such  considerations, 
indeed,  are  likely  in  course  of  time,  and  that 
not  long,  to  lead  to  the  utilization  of  the  vast 
amount  of  power  which  now  goes  to  waste  at 
this  point.  So  long  as  the  factory  had  to  be 
placed  near  its  water-wheel  the  demand  for  the 
energy  of  the  Falls  was  not  very  insistent.  If, 
however,  as  seems  most  likely,  electricians  de- 
vise means  whereby  the  tide  of  force  made 
available  by  this  leap  of  waters  can  be  carried, 
without  too  much  loss,  to  points  five  hundred 
miles  or  more  away,  we  may  find  New  York 
and  Chicago,  and  a  hundred  other  places,  ask- 
ing for  a  share  of  the  energy  which  here  goes 
to  waste.  It  is  indeed  most  likely  that  the  ar- 
rest in  the  southward  march  of  Niagara  will  be 
brought  about  by  the  diversion  of  its  waters 
to  the  turbines  which  drive  dynamos. 

The  foregoing  considerations  may  make  it 
evident  to  the  reader  that  Niagara  Falls  should 
not  be  viewed  as  a  mere  spectacle.  They 
should  be  taken  as  majestic  natural  phenomena 
which  throw  light  on  many  important  chapters 
156 


THE  GEOLOGY  OF  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

in  the  history  of  our  continent.  It  is  indeed 
doubtful  if  at  any  other  place  in  the  world  the 
mind  stimulated  by  a  majestic  scene  is  so 
naturally  led  to  inquiries  full  of  learned  as  well 
as  of  human  interest. 


157 


THE  FLORA  AND  FAUNA  OF 
NIAGARA  FALLS. 

BY  DAVID  F.  DAY. 

The  traveller,  who  seeks  for  exhibitions  of 
the  grander  forces  of  nature,  will  find  his 
wishes  abundantly  gratified  at  Niagara.  The 
fall  of  the  waters  of  one  of  the  greatest  rivers 
of  the  world  over  a  precipice  of  more  than  one 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  height,  and  the  con- 
stantly growing  record  of  their  power  to  chan- 
nel through  the  enduring  rock,  will  prove  to 
him  an  absorbing,  yet  perplexing,  subject  for 
study.  But  the  tourist,  who  takes  enjoyment 
in  the  shadows  of  a  forest,  almost  unchanged 
from  its  natural  condition,  in  the  stateliness 
and  symmetry  of  individual  trees  planted  by 
the  hand  of  Nature  herself,  in  the  beauty  and 
fragrance  of  many  species  of  flowers  growing 
without  cultivation  and  in  countless  numbers, 
m  the  ever-varying  forms  and  hues  of  foliage, 

and  in  the  continually  shifting  panorama  of 
158 


Photograph  by  H.  Wilson  Saunde 
SPRINGTIME   AT    NIAGARA. 


THE  FLORA  AND  FAUNA  OF  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

the  animated  creation  so  near  the  scenes  of 
human  activity  and  occupation  and  yet  so  free 
from  their  usual  effects,  will  find  upon  the  bor- 
ders of  the  river,  within  its  chasm  and  on  the 
islands  which  hang  upon  the  brink  of  the 
great  cataract,  an  abundant  gratification  of  his 
taste  and  an  exhaustless  field  for  study. 

To  such  a  person — to  all,  in  fact,  who  realize 
how  ennobling  it  is  to  the  heart  of  man  to  be 
brought  at  times  face  to  face  with  Nature, 
whether  in  her  beauty  or  her  sublimity — it 
must  always  be  the  source  of  profound  satis- 
faction to  know  that  by  the  wise  and  liberal 
policy  of  the  State  of  New  York  and  the  Do- 
minion of  Canada  so  large  an  area  of  country 
contiguous  to  the  river  and  the  Falls  has  been 
made  a  public  property,  and,  placed  forever 
beyond  the  reach  of  vandal  hands,  is  now  dedi- 
cated, for  all  time,  to  the  highest  and  most 
exalted  purposes. 

Although  in  this  volume  a  chapter  has  been 
devoted  to  the  geology  of  Niagara,  by  one 
abundantly  qualified  for  the  task,  nevertheless, 
for  a  proper  presentation  of  the  Natural  His- 
tory of  the  Falls  and  of  the  region  of  which  it 
is  the  centre,  a  passing  glance  should  here  be 
159 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

bestowed  upon  the  geological  record  of  Goat 
Island  and  the  river  within  whose  embrace  it 
lies,  to  bring  out  more  clearly  the  relation  to 
it  of  its  Fauna  and  Flora.  For  this  purpose  it 
is  not  necessary  to  explore  the  measureless 
periods  of  time  in  which  the  imagination  of  the 
geologist  is  accustomed  to  range  at  will.  It 
is  demonstrable  that  in  a  scientific  sense  the 
Island  itself  is  of  a  trifling  antiquity.  In  fact 
it  would  be  difficult  to  point  out  in  the  western 
world  any  considerable  tract  of  land  more  re- 
cent in  its  origin. 

There  is  every  evidence  to  believe  that  the 
Niagara  River  has  excavated  its  enormous 
chasm  since  the  close  of  the  period  known  to 
geologists  as  the  Glacial  Age.  Whether  before 
the  coming  on  of  the  Glacial  Age  the  upper 
lakes  were  connected  or  not  with  Lake  On- 
tario (a  proposition  which  seems  to  be  well 
received  in  the  geological  world),  it  seems  very 
certain  that  thereafter  Lake  Erie,  Lake  Huron 
and  Lake  Superior  sent  their  waters  to  the  sea 
through  an  outlet  which  Lake  Michigan  then 
had  into  the  Mississippi.  A  barrier  not  greater 
than  fifty  feet  in  height  would  suffice,  even  to- 
day, to  reverse  the  current  of  Lake  Erie  and 

160 


THE  FLORA  AND  FAUNA  OF  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

Lake  Huron  and  compel  the  discharge  of  their 
contents  into  the  Mississippi,  either  by  re- 
opening the  old,  abandoned  channel  at  the 
head  of  Lake  Michigan  or  by  forming  a  new 
one.  The  barrier,  which  was  broken  down  at 
the  time,  when  in  fact  the  physical  history  of 
the  Niagara  River  began,  may  be  pointed  out 
with  reasonable  certainty  to-day.  A  ridge 
near  the  foot  of  Lake  Erie,  which  at  one  time 
extended  in  an  eastward  and  westward  course, 
crossing  the  present  channel  of  the  Niagara 
River,  was  that  barrier.  On  either  side  of  the 
river  it  attains  a  height  of  sixty  or  seventy  feet 
above  the  present  level  of  Lake  Erie.  It  is 
almost  unnecessary  to  say  that  this  barrier  was 
of  glacial  origin — an  immense  moraine.  From 
its  base,  on  the  northerly  side,  to  the  verge  of 
the  cliff  at  Lewiston  and  Queenston,  where  the 
cataract  began  its  work  of  erosion,  the  surface 
of  the  underlying  rock  rises  steadily.  At  the 
summit  of  the  cliff  at  Lewiston  and  Queenston, 
it  has  an  elevation  of  thirty-two  feet  above  the 
present  level  of  Lake  Erie. 

It  is  fair  to  assume  that  although  the  lake 
(or  river),  after  its  irruption  through  this  bar- 
rier, spread  widely,  yet  that  the  beginning  of 

II  161 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

the  excavation  of  the  chasm  at  Lewiston  was 
not  long  delayed. 

Along  the  entire  length  of  the  river  from 
Lake  Erie  to  Lewiston  and  Queenston,  the 
terraces  left  by  the  river,  as  from  time  to  time 
it  deepened  and  narrowed  its  channel,  may  be 
easily  recognized.  Often  they  show  evidence 
that  they  were  formed  at  the  bottom  of  the 
river  before  the  chasm  had  been  excavated, 
being  very  largely  composed  of  water-worn 
stones  and  materials,  brought  and  deposited  by 
the  river  itself  from  more  southerly  localities. 

Goat  Island  is  of  this  origin.  It  is  in  fact  a 
portion  of  such  a  terrace.  In  a  single  place 
upon  the  island  there  is  to  be  seen  a  small 
quantity  of  clay,  possibly  deposited  by  the 
glacier  where  it  is  found,  but  more  likely  to 
have  been  brought  by  the  current  of  the  river 
along  with  the  other  materials  which  make  up 
the  soil.  Mixed  with  the  soil  of  Goat  Island 
and  with  that  of  the  river  terraces  in  other 
places,  there  may  be  seen  an  abundance  of  the 
half-decomposed  remains  of  fluviatile  and  la- 
custrine Mollusca — shell-fish,  univale,  and  bi- 
valve, identical  in  species  with  those  still  liv- 
ing in  the  lake  and  river. 
162 


THE  FLORA  AND  FAUNA  OF  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

The  period  which  has  been  employed  by  the 
river  in  the  excavation  of  the  chasm  below  the 
Falls,  has,  for  more  than  half  a  century,  been  a 
most  interesting  study  for  the  geologist.  As 
early  as  1841,  Sir  Charles  Lyell,  preeminent 
in  his  day  as  a  geologist,  from  such  data  as  he 
was  then  able  to  command,  computed  the  time 
necessary  for  the  work  at  no  less  than  35,000 
years.  Later  geologists  have  sought,  but  un- 
successfully, to  reduce  the  period.  When, 
however,  the  island  appeared  above  the  river, 
substantially  as  it  now  is,  presents  a  more  diffi- 
cult problem;  but  that  the  deposit  of  the  ma- 
terials of  which  its  soil  is  composed,  began  as 
soon  as  the  irruption  of  the  river  through  the 
moraine,  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Erie,  was  accom- 
plished, can  scarcely  be  doubted.  That  35,- 
ooo  years  have  passed  since  the  shells  found 
on  the  island  and  in  the  terraces  on  either  side 
of  the  river  were  deposited,  and  that  no  spe- 
cific difference  is  to  be  discovered  between 
them  and  their  existing  representatives  and 
progeny,  are  facts  full  of  interest  to  the  evolu- 
tionist. 

A  calcareous  soil,  enriched  with  an  abund- 
ance of  organic  matter,  like  that  of  Goat  Isl- 
163 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

and,  would  necessarily  be  one  of  great  fertility. 
For  the  growth  and  sustentation  of  a  forest, 
and  of  such  plants  as  prefer  the  woods  to  the 
openings,  it  would  far  excel  the  deep  and  ex- 
haustless  alluviums  of  the  Prairie  States. 

For  the  preservation  of  so  large  a  part  of  the 
native  vegetation  of  the  island  we  must  be 
thankful  to  the  policy  of  its  former  owners, 
who,  through  so  many  years,  kept  it  mainly  in 
the  condition  in  which  Nature  left  it.  To  the 
naturalist,  the  hand  of  cultivation  is  often  the 
hand  of  devastation.  It  has  happily  been 
spared,  to  a  large  extent,  the  'ravage  of  the 
axe  and  plough,  and  from  the  still  more  com- 
plete spoliation  which  comes  from  the  pas- 
turage of  horses  and  cattle.  It  would  be  very 
difficult  to  find  within  another  territory,  so  re- 
stricted in  its  limits,  so  great  a  diversity  of 
trees  and  shrubs — still  more  difficult  to  find, 
in  so  small  an  area,  such  examples  of  aboreal 
symmetry  and  perfection  as  the  island  has  to 
exhibit. 

From  the  geological  history  of  the  island,  as 

has  thus  been  told,  it  would  be  inferred  that  it 

had   received   its   Flora  from   the  mainland. 

This,  no  doubt,  is  true.    In  fact  the  botanist  is 

164 


THE  FLORA  AND  FAUNA  OF  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

unable  to  point  out  a  single  instance  of  tree, 
or  shrub,  or  herb,  now  growing  upon  the  isl- 
and, not  also  to  be  found  upon  the  mainland. 
But,  as  has  been  remarked,  the  distinguishing 
characteristic  of  its  Flora  is  not  the  posses- 
sion of  any  plant  elsewhere  unknown,  but  the 
abundance  of  individuals  and  species  which  the 
island  displays. 

There  are  to  be  found  in  Western  New  York 
about  one  hundred  and  seventy  species  of  trees 
and  shrubs.  Goat  Island  and  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  the  river  near  the  Falls  can  show  of 
these  no  less  than  one  hundred  and  forty. 

Of  our  trees  producing  conspicuous  flowers, 
such  as  the  Cucumber-tree  (Magnolia  acumi- 
natd)  and  the  Tulip-tree  (Liriodendron  tulipi- 
ferd),  there  are  but  few  specimens  in  the  vicin- 
ity of  the  Falls.  Abbe  Provancher  found  the 
former  growing  at  or  near  Clifton,  and  one 
magnificent  specimen  of  the  latter  may  be 
pointed  out  on  Goat  Island.  In  the  reforesta- 
tion of  the  denuded  portions  of  the  island,  due 
observance  to  the  planting  of  these  beautiful 
American  trees  should  be  had. 

Four  Maples  are  represented  upon  the  isl- 
and: Acer  saccharinum,  A.  rubrum,  A.  dasy- 
165 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

carpum  and  A.  spicatum.  The  first  of  these, 
the  Sugar-maple,  is  perhaps  the  most  abund- 
ant tree  upon  the  island.  Five  species  of 
Sumach  (Rhus)  grow  upon  the  island  or  along 
the  margin  of  the  river.  Our  native  Plum 
(Prunus  Americana)  and  two  Cherries  (Pru- 
nus  Virginiana  and  P.  serotina)  belong  either 
to  the  island  or  the  mainland,  the  latter,  the 
Black-cherry  of  the  lumberman,  attaining 
upon  the  island  a  wonderful  development. 
Near  the  gorge  of  the  river,  on  either  side,  but 
not  upon  the  island,  the  Crab-apple  (Pyrus 
coronarid)  abounds,  diffusing  in  the  early 
days  of  June  its  unequalled  fragrance  upon 
the  air. 

Three  species  of  Thorn  (Cratcegus  coccinea, 
C.  tomentosa  and  C.  Crus-galli)  are  to  be  met 
with  upon  Goat  Island,  adding  in  May  and 
June  no  small  part  to  the  floral  magnificence 
of  the  season.  Six  species  of  Cornel,  includ- 
ing the  flowering  Dog-wood  (Cornus  floridd); 
two  Elders  (Sambucus  Canadensis  and  5*.  pu- 
bens)  and  six  Viburnums  (V.  Opulus,  V.  aceri- 
folium,  V.  pubescens,  V.  dentatum,  V.  nudum, 
and  V.  Lentogo),  either  on  the  island  or  the 
mainland,  contribute  greatly,  in  the  spring  and 

166 


THE  FLORA  AND  FAUNA  OF  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

summer  months,  to  enlarge  and  diversify  the 
display. 

To  find  the  Sassafras  one  must  go  down 
along  the  river  as  far  as  the  Whirlpool.  He 
will  there  meet  with  it,  but  not  in  profusion, 
on  either  side  of  the  river.  Our  other  native 
laurel,  the  Spice-wood  (Lindera  Benziori),  is  to 
be  found  handsomely  represented  on  Goat 
Island. 

Two  species  of  Ash,  the  white  and  black 
(Fraximus  Americana  and  F.  sambuci 'folia),  are 
among  the  trees  of  the  island,  and  are  to  be 
met  elsewhere  in  abundance. 

The  only  species  of  Linden  or  Bass-wood, 
which  belongs  to  the  vicinity,  is  the  familiar 
one,  Tilia  Americana.  It  is  plentiful  upon  the 
island,  and  of  extraordinary  size  and  beauty. 

Of  nut-producing  trees  the  following  occur : 

The  Butternut  (Juglans  cinerea),  the  Black 
walnut  (7.  nigra),  the  white  Hickory  (Gary a 
alba),  the  hairy  Hickory  (C.  tomentosa),  the 
pig-nut  Hickory  (C.  porcina)  and  the  bitter 
Hickory  (C.  amara),  the  Beech  (Fagits  ferru- 
ginea),  the  Chestnut  (Castanea  vulgar  is),  the 
white  Oak  (Quercus  alba),  the  post  Oak  (Q. 
obtusiloba),the  Chestnut-oak  (Q.  Muhlenbergii), 
167 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 


the  Bur-oak  (Q.  macrocarpd),  the  dwarf  Chest- 
nut-oak (Q.  prinoides),  the  red  Oak  (Q.  rubra), 
the  scarlet  Oak  (Q.  coccinea),  the  Quercitron- 
oak  (Q.  tinctoria),  and  the  Pin-oak  (Q.  />a/w.y- 


Two  species  of  Elm  (Ulmus  Americana  and 
U.  fulva),  three  Birches  (Betula  lenta,  B.  lutea 
and  B.  papy  raced),  one  Alder  (Alnus  incana), 
six  native  Willows  (Salix  nigra,  S.  lucida,  S. 
discolor,  S.  rostrata,  S.petiolaris  and  5*.  cor  data), 
and  four  Poplars  (Populus  tremuloides,  P. 
grandidentata,  P.  monolifera  and  P.  balsamifera 
v.  candicans),  are  embraced  within  the  Sylva  of 
Niagara. 

Of  the  cone-bearing  family  the  number  of 
species  is  not  as  great  as  might  be  expected. 
They  are  only  six,  distributed  in  five  genera, 
as  follows  : 

The  White-cedar  (Thuja  occidentalis),  the 
most  abundant  of  the  evergreens  at  Niagara; 
the  Red-cedar  (Juniperus  Virginiand),  unfortu- 
nately disappearing;  the  Juniper  (J.communis), 
the  American  Yew  or  Ground-hemlock  (Taxus 
baccata  v.  Canadensis),  the  White-pine  (Pinus 
Strobus),  and  the  common  Hemlock-spruce 
(Tsuga  Canadensis).  The  two  last  named  spe- 

168 


THE  FLORA  AND  FAUNA  OF  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

cies  are  not  as  plentiful  upon  the  island  as 
their  beauty  demands.  They  should  be  at 
once,  and  largely,  replanted. 

Of  the  herbs,  producing  showy  flowers, 
which  are  to  be  found  upon  the  island,  the  fol- 
lowing may  be  mentioned,  which  by  their 
profusion  as  well  as  beauty,  make  it  in  spring- 
time and  early  summer  a  natural  flower- 
garden,  wild  indeed,  but  wonderfully  beauti- 
ful: 

Our  two  Liverworts  or  Squirrel-cups  (He- 
patica  acutiloba  and  H.  triloba),  scarcely  distin- 
guishable from  one  another,  except  by  the  leaf, 
but  of  an  infinite  variety  of  color. 

The  dioecious  Meadow  Rue  (Thalictrum 
dioicum),  more  noticeable  because  of  the  pecu- 
liar beauty  of  its  foliage  than  its  conspicuous- 
ness  of  flower — it  is  as  graceful  as  a  fern. 

The  wild  Columbine  (Aquilegia  Canadensis), 
to  be  found  on  the  island,  yet  more  abundantly 
along  the  chasm,  where  it  displays  its  elegant 
blossoms  of  scarlet  and  gold,  far  beyond  the 
reach  of  the  most  venturesome. 

The  May  Apple  (Podophyllum  peltatum),  a 
plant  singular  both  in  flower  and   leaf,  but 
beautiful  and  always  arresting  attention. 
169 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

The  Blood-root  (Sanguinaria  Canadensis),  a 
plant  lifting  up  its  large,  clear  white  flower  and 
its  solitary  leaf  in  the  early  days  of  spring. 

Squirrel-corn  and  Dutchman's  breeches 
(Diclytr a  Canadensis  and  D.cucullarid).  Strange 
plants,  but  of  great  gracefulness  and  beauty. 
Abundant  on  the  island  early  in  May;  the 
former  species,  rich  with  the  odor  of  hyacinths. 

Of  the  spring-flowering  Crucifera  to  be 
found  upon  the  island,  the  following  deserve 
to  be  mentioned  as  notable  for  their  abundance 
and  beauty:  The  Crinkle-root  (Dentaria  di- 
phylla),  the  Spring-cress  (Cardamine  rhom- 
boidea,  v.purpured),  and  the  Rock-cress  (A  rabis 
lyratd). 

As  many  as  four  violets  abound  upon  the 
island  and  its  vicinity,  adding  their  charms  to 
the  beauty  of  the  month  of  May — Viola  cucul- 
lata,  V.  rostrata,  V.  pubescens,  and  V.  Canaden- 
sis, the  last,  remarkable  among  the  American 
species,  for  its  fragrance  as  well  as  graceful- 
ness. 

The  Spring-beauty  (Claytonia  Caroliniana), 
the  large,  native*  Cranesbill  (Geranium  macula- 
turn),  the  Virginian  Saxifrage  (Saxifraga  Vir- 
giniensis),  the  two  Mitre-worts  (Tiarella  cordi- 
170 


THE  FLORA  AND  FAUNA  OF  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

folia  and  Mitella  diphylla),  the  spreading  Phlox 
(P.  divaricata),  the  creeping  Greek  Valerian 
(Polemonium  reptans),  now  rather  rare;  the 
American  Dog-tooth,  Violet,  or  Adder's- 
tongue  (Erythronium  Americanum),  the  large- 
flowered  Bell-wort  (Uvularia  grandiftora),  the 
Indian  Turnip  (Arisczma  triphylla),and  the  two 
Trilliums  (T.  grandiflorum  and  T.  erectum),  add 
largely  to  the  spring  contingent  of  attractive 
and  conspicuous  plants. 

Later  in  the  season,  one  may  find  the 
shrubby  St.  John's  Wort  (Hypericum  Kalmia- 
num),  and  one  of  the  most  graceful  species  of 
Lobelia  (L.  Kalmii),  each  rejoicing  in  a  damp 
situation,  and  each,  quite  probably,  discovered 
at  the  Falls,  by  Bishop  Kalm,  nearly  a  century 
and  a  half  ago,  and  introduced  by  him  from 
that  locality  to  the  notice  of  the  botanical 
world.  The  name  of  the  discoverer  of  these 
interesting  plants  is  worthily  commemorated 
in  those  which  the  great  Linnaeus  bestowed 
upon  them. 

The  summer  time  brings  forward  many  at- 
tractive forms — the  Grass  of  Parnassus  (Par- 
nassia  Caroliniana),  the  Painted-Cup  (Castilleia 
coccinea),  an  occasional  lily,  an  orchid  or  two, 
171 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

but  of  no  great  beauty,  the  Hare-bell  (Cam- 
panula rotundifolid),  and  a  large  array  of  an- 
nuals. 

Nor  is  the  autumnal  Flora  of  Goat  Island 
uninteresting.  Golden-rods  (Solidago  sp.), 
Sun-flowers  (Helianthus  sp.),  Star-flowers 
(Aster  sp.),  the  Downy  Thistle  (Cnicus  dis- 
color), and,  at  last,  the  triumph  of  October  and 
of  the  dying  year,  the  shorn  Gentian  (Gentiana 
detonsd),  its  graceful  blossoms  as  blue  as  the 
summer  skies. 

In  the  region  of  the  Falls,  but  not  upon  Goat 
Island  itself,  some  plants  of  great  beauty  have 
been  detected.  Below  the  Whirlpool,  two 
species  of  Bluets  or  Innocence  (Houstonia 
ccerulea  and  H.  purpured)  are  to  be  observed, 
the  rare  Liatris  cylindracca,  Apocynum  andro- 
scemifolium,  the  orange-colored  Milkweed 
(Asclepias  tuaerosd),  the  Fire-lily  (Lilium  Phila- 
delphicum),  the  large,  yellow  Lady's  Slipper 
(Cypripedium  pubescens),  the  beautiful,  low- 
growing  Morning  Glory  (Convolvulus  spitha- 
m&us),a.nd  wild  Roses,  as  fragrant  as  beautiful. 

The  ferns  of  Goat  Island  and  the  region  of 
the  Falls  are  numerous.  Among  them  may 
be  mentioned:  The  Ostrich-fern  (Onoclea 
172 


THE  FLORA  AND  FAUNA  OF  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

Struthiopteris),  the  Sensitive-fern  (0.  sensiblis), 
the  Royal-fern  (Osmunda  regalis),  the  Inter- 
rupted-fern (0.  internipta),  the  Cinnamon-fern 
(0.  cinnamomea),  the  Bladder-fern  (Cystopteris 
bulbifera),  Shield-ferns  of  various  species  (As- 
pidium  Noveboracense,  A.  Thelypteris,  A.  spinu- 
losum,  A.  cristatum,  A.Goldianum,A.marginale, 
A.  Lonchitis),  and  the  Christmas-fern  (A.achro- 
stichoides) ;  the  Beech-fern  (Phegopteris  Dryop- 
teris),  only  found  at  the  Devil's  Hole;  the 
Walking-fern  (Camptosorus  rhysophyllus),  four 
Spleen-worts  (Asplenium  Trichomanes,  A.  ebe- 
neum, abundant  at  Lewiston,  A.achrostichoides, 
and  A.  Filix-fcemind),  scarcely  to  be  excelled 
in  grace  by  any  species;  two  Cliff-brakes  (Pel- 
Icca  gracilis  and  P.  atropurpurea),  the  Common- 
brake,  world-wide  in  its  distribution  (Pteris 
aquilina);  the  American  Maiden-hair  (Adian- 
tum  pedatum),  and  the  common  Polypody 
(Poly podium  vulgar e),  peering,  in  many  places, 
over  the  edge  of  the  chasm  into  the  depths 
below. 

Of  the  Fauna  of  Niagara  very  much  cannot 

be  said.      All  the  larger  Mammalia,  which 

abounded  in  the  region  whilst  it  was  still  the 

possession  of  the  red  man,  have  long  since  dis- 

173 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

appeared.  It  seems  almost  as  though  they 
could  never  have  resorted,  habitually,  to  Goat 
Island.  The  access  to  it  of  the  elk,  the  red 
deer,  the  bear,  the  panther,  the  lynx,  the  fox, 
and  the  wolf,  common  enough  in  the  neigh- 
borhood, must  always  have  been  difficult,  and 
their  return  to  the  mainland  almost  impossible. 
At  the  present  time  the  quadrupeds  inhabit- 
ing the  island  are  probably  only  three,  the 
Black-squirrel,  the  Red-squirrel,  and  the 
Striper-squirrel  or  Chipmunk.  These  may  be 
seen,  almost  any  spring  or  summer  day,  dis- 
porting themselves,  without  regard  to  the 
presence  of  man,  in  their  leafy  coverts. 

The  birds  affecting  the  island  and  the  gorge 
are  not  to  be  distinguished,  in  species,  from 
those  of  the  mainland.  But,  as  would  be  ex- 
pected, environment  makes  some  species  rare 
and  others  plentiful.  The  Robin  (Turdus 
migratorious),  the  Oriole  (Icterus  Baltimore), 
the  Blue-bird  (Sialia  Wilsonii),  and  the  Gold- 
finch (Carduelis  tristis),  find  so  much  of  their 
food  supply  in  door  yards  and  cultivated  land, 
that  they  are  to  be  seen  less  frequently  upon 
the  island,  or  within  the  gorge,  than  elsewhere 
in  the  neighborhood.  On  the  other  hand, 
174 


THE   FLORA    AND    FAUNA    OF   NIAGARA    FALLS. 

birds  of  the  deep  and  silent  woods,  like  the 
Vireos,  Wilson's  Thrush  (Turdus  fuscescens), 
the  Wood-thrush  (Turdus  mustelinus),  and  the 
Cat-bird  (Mimus  Carolinensis),  are  almost  al- 
ways to  be  seen  and  heard  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
Falls  or  river. 

Birds  of  the  crow  family,  such  as  the  com- 
mon Crow,  the  Purple  Crackle,  and  the  Blue- 
jay  were  probably,  at  one  time,  plentiful;  but 
they  are  now  rarely  seen,  except  as  they  are 
passing  over  from  one  side  of  the  river  to  the 
other.  Our  common  hawks  may  be  included 
in  the  same  remark. 

Summer  or  winter,  numerous  gulls  may  be 
seen  hovering  over  the  river,  between  its  high 
banks,  below  the  Falls. 

Late  in  the  autumn,  after  other  birds  have 
taken  their  flight  in  the  thick  spray  of  the 
Red-cedars,  great  flocks  of  Cedar-birds  (Am- 
phelis  cedrorum)  are  to  be  noticed,  feeding  so- 
cially upon  the  plentiful  sweet  berries  of  the 
tree.  Probably  they  remain  until  the  supply 
of  food  is  exhausted. 

The  Bald-headed  Eagle  (Haliatus  leucoce- 
phalus)  was  once  a  frequenter  of  the  region  of 
the  cataract,  but  is  now  seldom  seen.  Prob- 
175 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

ably  he  has  learned  to  be  wary  and  not  un- 
necessarily to  expose  himself  to  the  aim  of  the 
collecting  naturalist.  But,  however  that  may 
be,  without  doubt  the  waters  below  the  Falls 
were  once  a  favorite  resort  to  him.  He  was  a 
devourer  of  fish,  and,  although  powerful  of 
claw  and  pinion,  he  did  not  disdain  to  save  his 
strength  by  feeding  upon  such  as  had  been 
killed  or  stunned  in  their  passage  over  the 
Falls. 

Of  the  birds  of  our  region,  which  seem  to 
fear  the  presence  of  man,  and  therefore  retire 
to  the  unfrequented  woods,  it  may  be  said  that 
they  are  really  plentiful  in  the  shady  nooks 
and  recesses  with  which  the  gorge  of  the  river 
abounds.  The  naturalist  who  would  wish  to 
make  them  a  study,  can  do  so  satisfactorily,  if 
he  will  but  enter  the  woods  at  the  Whirlpool 
or  at  Foster's  Flat  and  patiently  and  quietly 
await  their  appearance.  It  is  hardly  possible 
that  such  a  retiring  species  as  the  Indigo-bird 
(Cyanospiza  cyanea)  will  fail  to  reward,  his 
watchfulness,  or  that  a  Scarlet  Tanager  (Py- 
ranga  rubra)  will  not  soon  flash  like  a  meteor 
before  his  eyes.  Likely  enough  the  King- 
fisher (Ceryle  Alcyori)  will  leave  his  silent  perch 
176 


THE  FLORA  AND  FAUNA  OF  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

and  with  a  harsh  cry  dart  down  upon  his  scaly 
prey.  Here,  where  the  thick  leaves  make  a 
twilight,  even  at  midday,  the  attentive  ear  of 
the  student  of  our  birds  will  listen,  with  de- 
light, to  the  bell-like  notes  of  the  Wood-thrush 
or  the  sweet  cadences  of  the  Cat-bird's  real 
song. 


12  177 


THE    UTILIZATION    OF 
NIAGARA'S    POWER. 

BY  COLEMAN  SELLERS,  E.D.,  Sc.D.,  ETC. 

If,  when  contemplating  the  grandeur  of  the 
Cataract  of  Niagara,  we  consider  for  a  moment 
the  energy  represented  by  the  enormous  body 
of  water  as  it  falls  into  the  gorge  below,  the 
question  naturally  suggests  itself  what  this 
force  must  be,  measured  by  the  standards  with 
which  we  are  familiar,  or,  in  other  words,  what 
would  be  the  actual  power  of  the  Falls  if  all  of 
the  water  passing  from  it  could  be  utilized. 

One  computation  places  this  total  power  at 
an  amount  so  great  that  the  world's  entire 
daily  output  of  coal  would  be  barely  sufficient 
as  fuel  to  generate  steam  for  operating  pumps 
capable  of  returning  to  the  level  of  the  upper 
rapids  the  water  which  is  discharged  over  the 
Falls  into  the  lower  river.  The  difference  in 
level  between  the  still  waters  above  the  upper 
rapids  in  the  river  and  the  gorge  below  is 
178 


THE    GORGE    ROAD. 


Photographs  by  Arnold. 


THE    GORGE   NEAR    LEWISTON. 


THE    UTILIZATION   OF  NIAGARA'S   POWER. 

about  216  feet,  and  knowing  this  we  could  esti- 
mate the  power  of  the  Falls  could  we  but  de- 
termine accurately  the  amount  of  water  which 
passes  over  it  in  any  given  time.  To  be  sure, 
such  measurements  have  been  made,  but  as 
they  were  based  on  the  mean  velocity  of  the 
stream  under  ordinary  conditions  they  are  not 
altogether  reliable,  as  the  velocity  is  known  to 
vary  considerably,  and  is  even  materially  af- 
fected by  the  direction  and  force  of  the  wind. 
To  arrive  at  any  approximately  correct  esti- 
mate, therefore,  the  measurement  should  ex- 
tend over  a  very  considerable  period  of  time,  in 
order  to  embrace  all  of  the  variations  in  the 
velocity  and  volume  of  the  water  passing  down 
the  river  at  any  given  point,  but  from  the  data 
now  available  the  total  energy  that  the  Falls 
may  be  assumed  to  represent  has  been  esti- 
mated as  about  five  million  horse-power. 

We  have  long  been  in  the  habit  of  associat- 
ing Niagara  Falls  with  its  attractions  as  a 
pleasure  resort,  and  as  one  of  the  world's  won- 
ders, but  from  early  times  its  power  has  been 
utilized,  to  a  limited  extent  to  be  sure,  and  in- 
dustries have  existed  along  the  rapids  above 
the  Falls  certainly  as  early  as  1725,  when  a 
179 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

sawmill  was  in  use  cutting  timber  for  Fort  Ni- 
agara. These  early  mills  were  located  on  the 
river  bank  at  points  where  the  greatest  fall  or 
head  of  water  could  be  obtained,  the  water 
being  led  to  the  wheels  by  a  race  from  a  con- 
venient point  up  stream,  and  then  carried  off 
when  used  by  the  most  direct  course  again  to 
the  river.  This  is  a  method  commonly  em- 
ployed in  utilizing  the  flow  of  streams  wher- 
ever artificial  or  natural  conditions  permit  the 
development  of  power  by  means  of  falling 
water.  Therefore,  in  1847,  when  Mr.  Augustus 
Porter,  who  owned  most  of  the  land  now  oc- 
cupied by  the  city  of  Niagara  Falls,  outlined  a 
plan  upon  which  the  so-called  hydraulic  power 
canal  was  projected,  he  adopted  this  recog- 
nized method  as  conforming  to  the  best  prac- 
tice at  the  time,  and  planned  to  carry  the  water 
from  above  the  upper  rapids  to  the  edge  of  the 
gorge  below  the  Falls,  to  be  utilized  by  mills 
located  at  that  point.  A  company  now  known 
as  the  Niagara  Falls  Hydraulic  Power  and 
Manufacturing  Company  was  organized,  and, 
while  the  canal  was  virtually  finished  in  1861, 
it  remained  unused  until  1870,  when  Mr. 
Charles  B.  Gaskell  built  a  small  flouring  mill 
1 80 


THE    UTILIZATION   OF  NIAGARA'S   POWER. 

on  the  site  of  the  well-known  group  of  larger 
buildings  which  have  since  formed  a  conspicu- 
ous feature  of  the  gorge  below  the  State  Res- 
ervation. 

The  canal  when  first  opened  was  but  36  feet 
in  width  and  10  feet  in  depth  from  the  surface 
of  the  water.  In  addition  to  the  grant  giving 
a  right  of  way  100  feet  wide  through  what  is 
now  a  populous  portion  of  the  city,  property 
was  obtained  amounting  to  about  75  acres, 
with  a  frontage  of  nearly  a  mile  on  the  high 
bluff  overlooking  the  river  below  the  Falls. 
Here  the  forebay  or  distributing  basin  was 
located  at  a  level  of  about  214  feet  above  the 
surface  of  the  lower  river,  and  from  this  point 
the  canal  extends  4,400  feet  in  length  across 
the  town  to  its  intake  at  the  upper  river  just 
above  the  rapids '  leading  to  the  American 
Falls. 

Of  late  years  the  canal  has  been  enlarged  at 
its  upper  end  to  the  full  limit  of  the  right  of 
way,  and  this  improvement  is  being  extended 
over  as  much  of  its  length  as  can  be  widened 
under  existing  conditions. 

In  addition  to  the  mills  on  the  high  bank  of 
the  gorge,  a  power  house  has  been  erected  at 

181 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

the  lower  river's  edge  to  take  advantage  of  the 
fall  from  the  surface  of  the  canal  above,  and 
the  present  and  prospective  power  available  is 
estimated  as  follows,  according  to  a  recent 
publication : 

By  electrical  transmission         .         .         .     19,037  H.-P. 
By  mechanical  transmission     .         .         .          360      " 
By  hydraulic  power  used  by  five  tenants  .       7,000      " 

f         Total 26,397      " 

Many  years  ago  when  the  late  Thomas 
Evershed  was  a  division  engineer  of  the  State 
of  New  York,  he  advocated  a  plan  for  the  de- 
velopment of  power  at  Niagara  Falls  in  which 
it  was  proposed  to  utilize  a  tunnel  as  a  tail  race 
to  carry  off  both  water  and  sewage,  a  plant  to 
be  constructed  by  a  corporation  organized  to 
furnish  power  to  manufacturing  industries  lo- 
cated on  the  level  land  east  of  the  city,  a  mile 
above  the  Falls. 

Interest  having  been  revived  in  this  method 
of  utilizing  the  power  of  the  Falls,  about  the 
year  1889  prominent  capitalists  became  iden- 
tified with  a  plan  of  development  which  con- 
templated placing  the  water  wheels  and  tur- 
bines in  pits  to  be  supplied  by  short  canals  and 
182 


THE   UTILIZATION   OF  NIAGARA'S  POWER. 

connected  with  a  tunnel  tail  race  and  looking 
to  the  establishment  of  an  industrial  centre 
such  as  at  Lowell,  Fall  River,  Holyoke,  and 
other  placeswhere  power  development  is  under 
the  control  of  power  companies.  Prior  to  this 
time  the  state  of  the  arts  and  industries  had 
not  created  a  sufficient  demand  for  water 
power  to  warrant  undertaking  the  develop- 
ment at  Niagara  Falls  on  a  scale  beyond  what 
had  been  already  attempted,  nor  was  it  until 
the  last  decades  of  the  I9th  century  that  im- 
provements in  the  generation  and  transmis- 
sion of  electricity  gave  any  marked  encourage- 
ment to  its  use  in  this  connection.  To  under- 
stand the  value  of  the  Evershed  method  of 
utilizing  water  power,  it  must  be  remembered 
that  in  the  case  of  a  long  surface  canal  or  head 
race,  a  hydraulic  slope  must  be  secured  in 
order  to  establish  a  current  of  the  required 
velocity.  If  such  a  canal,  discharging  into  a 
forebay  or  reservoir  at  its  lower  end,  is  not 
provided  with  means  for  regulating  the 
amount  of  water  passing  through  it,  the  con- 
stant flow  due  to  the  hydraulic  slope,  if  not 
fully  utilized  by  the  wheels,  must  overflow  at 
the  sluice  way  or  weirs.  This  involves  a  waste 
183 


THE  NIAGARA.  BOOK. 

of  water  and  power  beyond  what  is  utilized  at 
the  wheels,  equal  to  that  which  is  overflowing 
at  the  weir.  When,  however,  there  is  but  a 
short  surface  canal  requiring  no  overflow  and 
used  in  connection  with  a  tunnel  tail  race,  the 
only  flow  of  water  into  the  tunnel  is  that  actu- 
ally required  by  the  wheel  for  the  development 
of  the  power  being  used. 

Proceeding  on  the  lines  of  the  plan  above 
indicated,  it  was  proposed,  in  reviving  the 
Evershed  scheme,  to  establish  a  central  station 
to  generate  electric  power  for  transmission  to 
a  distance,  around  which  would  cluster  indus- 
tries, each  of  which  would  be  provided  with  its 
own  hydraulic  power  plant  supplied  from 
short  canals,  and  discharging  the  water  from 
the  wheels  into  a  common  tail  race  tunnel.  To 
carry  out  the  purposes  of  this  enterprise  the 
Cataract  Construction  Company  was  organ- 
ized to  undertake  the  work  of  construction  for 
the  Niagara  Falls  Power  Company,  which 
then  had  a  charter,  franchises,  and  options  on 
two  hundred  acres  of  real  estate.  Cooperat- 
ing with  these  companies,  the  Niagara  Devel- 
opment Company,  the  Niagara  Junction  Rail- 
way, and  the  Niagara  Falls  Water  Works 
184 


TEE   UTILIZATION   OF  NIAGARA'S  POWER. 

Company  were  organized,  and  these  allied  in- 
terests secured  land  controlling  a  river  front  of 
over  two  and  a  half  miles,  and  with  railroad 
communication  with  the  several  Trunk  Lines 
passing  through  the  city. 

The  first  work  of  importance  was  the  con- 
struction of  the  tunnel,  which  has  a  total  length 
of  a  little  over  one  and  a  quarter  miles,  and  ex- 
tends in  a  direct  line  from  the  north  end  of  the 
power  house,  located  between  Buffalo  Avenue 
and  the  river  above  the  upper  rapids,  and 
passes  under  the  Hydraulic  Canal  and  the 
business  portion  of  the  city  of  Niagara  Falls 
without  affecting  any  portion  of  the  ground 
or  the  thickly  built-up  section  of  the  city  over 
it.  The  upper  end  of  the  tunnel  is  150  feet 
or  more  below  the  inlet  canal  at  the  power 
house,  and  from  this  it  slopes  gradually  in  its 
course  toward  the  long  river,  where  its  portal 
may  be  seen  at  the  water's  edge  a  short  dis- 
tance below  the  new  steel  arch  bridge  and  ad- 
jacent to  the  Government  Reservation.  The 
cross-section  of  this  tunnel  is  of  horseshoe 
form  and  the  tunnel  is  lined  with  brick,  the  sides 
and  roof  being  of  hard  brick,  while  the  floor 
or  invert  is  paved  with  vitrified  brick  of  such 
185 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

hardness  that  the  sand  blast  test  to  which  the 
material  was  subjected  gave  no  evidence  of 
abrasion.  While  the  direction  of  the  tunnel 
is  in  a  straight  line  throughout  its  entire 
length,  its  slope  is  not  wholly  uniform,  being 
at  the  rate  of  4  feet  per  1,000  at  the  upper  end, 
the  lower  half  sloping  approximately  at  the 
rate  of  7  feet  to  the  1,000  toward  the  portal, 
where  for  some  few  hundred  feet  the  floor 
slopes  still  more  rapidly,  and  is  plated  on  the 
bottom  and  side  with  steel,  forming  a  wave- 
like  curve  that  brings  the  extreme  end  a  num- 
ber of  feet  below  the  main  water  level  of  the 
river.  The  back  water  standing  in  the  tunnel 
thus  presents  a  water  cushion  to  the  outgoing 
stream  as  it  leaves  the  tunnel  and  passes  the 
open  cut  beyond  the  portal.  This  hydraulic 
gradient  necessarily  reduces  the  head  other- 
wise due  to  the  difference  of  level  216  feet  be- 
tween the  surface  of  the  river  above  the  upper 
rapids  and  the  water  in  the  gorge  below  the 
Falls.  The  sacrifice  thus  made  is,  however, 
unavoidable,  as  the  slope  is  needed  to  obtain 
sufficient  velocity  to  carry  away  from  the  tur- 
bines the  water  required  to  develop  100,000 
horse-power  through  a  tunnel  df  limited  cross- 
186 


THE   UTILIZATION   OF  NIAGARA'S   POWER. 

section.  The  nature  of  the  rock  through  which 
the  tunnel  was  driven  made  it  necessary  during 
the  process  of  construction  to  support  the  roof 
and  sides  of  the  walls  by  strong  timbers,  which 
are  replaced  by  the  final  lining  of  brick,  form- 
ing an  arch  of  such  thickness  as  to  insure 
ample  stability.  During  the  progress  of  the 
work  careful  supervision  of  the  hydraulic  ce- 
ment used  resulted  in  a  structure  in  which  the 
joints  are  as  strong  or  stronger  than  the  bricks 
of  superior  quality  used  in  the  lining.  This 
was  proven  whenever  it  became  necessary  to 
cut  through  the  walls  to  make  lateral  connec- 
tions, the  hard  brick  yielding  more  readily 
than  the  cement.  The  tunnel  has  been  in  con- 
stant use  since  1895,  and  upon  examination  no 
sign  of  deterioration  has  been  discovered. 
Nature,  it  seems,  has  assisted  in  the  task  of 
preservation,  as  the  brick  walls  are  found  to  be 
covered  with  a  thin  coating  of  vegetable 
growth  which  even  the  high  velocity  of  the 
water  seems  unable  to  disturb,  and  which, 
therefore,  acts  as  an  additional  protection  to 
the  brick  work. 

On  its  land  at  the  upper  end  of  the  tunnel 
the  Niagara  Falls  Power  Company  has  located 
187 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

its  great  power  plant.  Here  the  short  inlet 
canal  is  200  feet  in  width,  extending  inland 
from  the  river  a  distance  of  1,200  feet,  and  de- 
creasing in  width  to  120  feet  at  its  upper  end, 
where  it  is  bridged  by  a  stone  structure  lead- 
ing from  the  office  end  of  the  power  house  to 
the  building  containing  the  electric  trans- 
formers. By  this  canal  the  water  is  carried 
into  the  power  house  by  short  entrance  chan- 
nels each  14  feet  wide  and  17  feet  in  depth, 
which  lead  to  the  steel  penstocks  that  feed  the 
water  to  the  turbines  located  in  the  wheelpit 
below  the  power  house  floor.  These  entrance 
channels  are  placed  at  intervals  of  40  feet  from 
centre  to  centre  along  the  east  wall  of  the 
power  house,  and  in  them  are  cased  the  steel 
sluice  gates  by  which  the  admission  of  the 
water  is  controlled.  The  power  house  itself  is 
a  massive  structure,  built  of  stone  to  harmon- 
ize with  the  masonry  of  the  canal,  and  the  walls 
inside  of  the  building  are  faced  with  white 
enamel  brick.  The  steel  roof-trusses  that  span 
the  whole  room  are  over  60  feet  in  width,  and 
rest  upon  steel  columns  which  extend  beyond 
the  face  of  the  walls  to  carry  the  runway  gird- 
ers of  an  electric  travelling  crane  of  about  50 

188 


POWER    HOUSE — EXTERIOR. 


POWER    HOUSE — INTERIOR. 


THE   UTILIZATION   OF  NIAGARA'S   POWER. 

tons  capacity,  which  commands  the  entire 
power  house  floor.  The  north  end  of  the 
power  house  is  extended  in  width  to  the  edge 
of  the  canal,  and  in  the  east  wing  thus  formed, 
various  offices  of  the  company,  occupying  four 
floors,  are  situated,  and  are  accessible  on  the 
ground  floor  by  a  doorway  to  the  left  of  the 
high  arched  portal  which  forms  the  main  en- 
trance to  the  building.  The  entrance  was  so 
proportioned  that  during  the  work  of  con- 
struction loaded  cars  could  pass  through  it 
into  the  main  room  of  the  power  house,  where 
the  materials  were  unloaded  and  handled  by 
the  travelling  crane.  Over  this  main  door- 
way the  arch-stones  radiate  to  the  ceiling  of 
the  vestibule,  beneath  which  they  are  inter- 
sected by  sculptured  stone  work  representing 
the  seal  of  the  company.  This  seal,  designed 
by  Frederick  Macmonnies,  the  American 
sculptor,  represents  the  Indian  Chief  Ni-a- 
ga-ra,  standing  in  his  canoe,  paddle  in  hand, 
in  the  act  of  shooting  the  rapids.  Around  the 
border  are  represented  the  Muscalonge,  the 
Kingfish  of  the  Niagara  River,  alternating 
with  arrow  heads  and  one  of  the  fossil  shells  of 
the  Niagara  group. 

189 


THE   NIAGARA   BOOK. 

Through  the  office  door  at  the  left  of  the 
entrance,  visitors  have  access  by  a  flight  of 
stairs  to  a  platform  at  the  level  of  the  second 
story,  from  which  a  second  short  flight  of  steps 
leads  to  a  bridge  that  crosses  the  main  room 
of  the  power  station.  From  this  bridge  a 
view  can  be  obtained  of  the  electric  generators 
and  machinery  which  occupy  the  ground  floor 
of  the  building.  The  generators  now  installed 
are  ten  in  number,  and  are  remarkable  for 
their  simplicity  as  well  as  for  the  enormous 
power  they  are  capable  of  developing.  The 
rotating  parts  of  each  consist  of  87,000  pounds 
of  metal,  which  revolves  at  the  rate  of  250  revo- 
lutions per  minute,  suggesting,  perhaps,  a 
huge  spinning  top.  They  deliver  a  bi-phase  al- 
ternating current  of  2,200  volts'  pressure  to 
the  bus  bars  enclosed  within  the  two  enam- 
elled-brick  structures  which  support  the  plat- 
forms upon  which  are  placed  the  various  in- 
struments and  devices  for  controlling  and 
measuring  the  current,  and  which  correspond 
to  the  usual  switchboards  of  a  power  station. 
From  these  bus  bars  the  current  is  carried  by 
cables  led  in  subways  beneath  the  floor  of  the 

power  house,  extending  under  the  bridge  upon 
190 


THE   UTILIZATION  OF  NIAGARAS  POWER. 

which  the  visitor  stands,  and  thence  out  of  the 
building  across  the  canal  by  a  bridge  to  the 
transformer  house  on  the  opposite  side,  from 
which  the  current  is  distributed  at  whatever 
pressure  is  required  by  the  various  consumers. 
Near  each  of  the  dynamos  or  generators  in 
the  power  house  (which,  by  the  way,  are  tech- 
nically termed  "  alternators,"  to  distinguish 
them  from  direct  current  generators)  may  be 
seen  the  governing  mechanism  required  to 
regulate  their  speed,  which  has  to  be  main- 
tained with  great  uniformity.  The  revolving 
part  of  each  generator  is  connected  by  means 
of  a  vertical  steel  shaft  to  the  turbines,  which 
are  located  in  the  wheelpit  at  a  depth  of  about 
141  feet  below  the  level  of  the  water  in  the  sur- 
face canal.  Each  turbine  consists  of  a  pair  of 
wheels  set  about  10  feet  apart,  one  above  the 
other,  at  each  end  of  a  massive  cast-iron 
"  wheel  case  "  which  is  supported  by  the  side 
walls  of  the  wheelpit,  which,  at  this  point,  is  16 
feet  in  width.  As  before  mentioned,  the  water 
is  carried  to  the  turbines  by  means  of  steel 
tubes  or  penstocks  of  7  feet  6  inches  in  diam- 
eter, which,  when  filled,  contain  a  column  of 
water  weighing  over  400,000  pounds,  sup- 
191 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

ported,  as  are  the  turbines  and  wheel  case,  by 
the  walls.  The  speed  of  the  turbines  is  regu- 
lated by  means  of  metal  ring-gates,  raised  and 
lowered  by  the  governing  mechanism,  and 
their  position  determines  the  amount  of  water 
discharged,  permitting  but  a  slight  leakage 
when  entirely  closed.  So  little  friction  is  there 
in  the  bearings  of  the  massive  shafts  connect- 
ing the  water  wheels  with  the  generators 
above,  that  when  the  ring-gates  are  closed, 
and  the  slight  leakage  past  them  constitutes 
the  only  power,  the  rotating  speed,  though 
reduced,  will  be  maintained  at  from  50  to  90 
revolutions  per  minute,  and  the  machinery 
must  be  brought  to  rest  by  a  powerful  brake, 
which,  in  turn,  can  only  be  relieved  by  shutting 
off  the  water  at  the  main  sluice  gate's  and  al- 
lowing the  penstocks  to  be  emptied.  This 
practically  frictionless  condition  is  due  to  a 
peculiar  feature  of  the  turbines,  the  upper 
wheel  in  each  unit  being  acted  upon  from  be- 
low by  the  pressure  of  the  water  in  the  wheel 
case,  and  the  arrangement  such  that  the  total 
weight  of  the  revolving  parts,  including  tur- 
bine shaft  and  rotating  parts  of  the  generator, 
is  supported  on  a  cushion  of  water.  One  sec- 
192 


THE   UTILIZATION  OF  NIAGARA'S  POWER. 

tion  of  the  shaft  is  provided  with  rings  which 
fit  into  grooves  in  the  bearing,  after  the  man- 
ner of  the  thrust-bearing  system  of  steamship 
propeller  shafts,  but  these  rings  have  to  resist 
a  pressure  of  only  3,000  pounds  up  or  down, 
according  to  the  amount  of  work  being  done 
and  the  condition  of  the  water  cushion  which 
carries  the  load  when  the  machinery  is  in 
operation. 

As  a  crowning  example  of  what  can  be  done 
by  way  of  diminishing  the  friction  in  the  verti- 
cal shaft  transmission,  it  may  be  of  interest  to 
note  here  that  the  seventh  generator  as  seen 
from  the  bridge  in  the  power  house  has  lately 
been  provided  with  an  oil  thrust-bearing 
which  is  fed  by  pumps  capable  of  delivering  oil 
to  it  under  a  pressure  of  400  pounds  to  the 
square  inch.  This  oil  thrust  is  of  novel  and 
original  design,  and  supplements  the  collar 
thrust-bearing  referred  to,  and  has  been  intro- 
duced experimentally  to  take  the  place  of  the 
water  cushion  in  event  of  passages  to  the  upper 
turbine  being  obstructed,  as  by  ice,  in  such  a 
manner  as  to  decrease  the  balancing  pressure. 
In  testing  this  device  the  turbine  was  revolved 
by  electricity,  using  its  dynamo  as  a  motor 
13  193 


THE  NIAGARA.  BOOK. 

with  its  penstock  empty,  under  which  condi- 
tion it  was  found  that  the  bearing  operated 
with  perfect  satisfaction  while  supporting  a  ro- 
tating load  of  148,500  pounds.  Furthermore, 
when  the  speed  had  been  reduced  to  90  revo- 
lutions per  minute,  ready  for  the  application 
of  the  brake,  and  the  main  sluice  gates  en- 
tirely closed  so  that  no  power  was  applied  to 
the  rotating  mass,  the  bearing  was  so  entirely 
frictionless  that  fully  51  minutes  elapsed  be- 
fore the  enormous  rotating  mass  came  to  an 
entire  rest.  This  experiment  also  shows  the 
utility  of  the  field  ring  of  the  dynamo  when 
acting  as  a  fly  wheel  to  steady  the  motion  of 
the  machine,  and  the  inertia  of  the  revolving 
mass  is  so  great  that  it  requires  appreciable 
time  for  any  change  in  the  load  to  effect  a 
change  in  the  speed,  thereby  affording  the 
governor  the  necessary  time  to  cut  off  or  in- 
crease the  water  supply,  and  thus  keep  the 
speed  of  the  generator  constant. 

Between  the  fifth  and  sixth  generators  in 
the  power  house  can  be  seen  four  direct-cur- 
rent dynamos,  each  of  which  is  operated  by  an 
independent  turbine  of  the  so-called  Francis 
type.  These  generators  supply  current  to  the 
194 


THE    UTILIZATION   OF  NIAGARA'S   POWER. 

rotating  field  magnets  of  the  large  alternators, 
and  they  also  supply  to  the  various  electric 
motors  used  throughout  the  building,  such  as 
the  travelling  crane,  the  ten  sluice  gates  and 
the  many  pumps  for  oil,  air,  and  water.  These 
motors  are  also  connected  to  the  switchboard 
that  they  may  be  operated  by  direct  current 
furnished  by  the  exciters,  or  by  transformed 
current,  through  rotary  transformers,  from 
the  main  alternators.  At  the  north  end  of  the 
power  house  are  three  machines  which  have 
the  appearance  of  electric  motors  or  gener- 
ators, each  with  its  horizontal  axis  and  arma- 
ture enclosed  by  stationary  field  magnets. 
These  machines  are  controlled  by  a  switch- 
board and  are  the  rotary  transformers  above 
referred  to.  They  constitute  one  of  the  im- 
portant improvements  made  since  the  com- 
pany first  decided  to  adopt  the  alternating  cur- 
rent system  of  generation  and  transmission, 
and  from  their  collector  rings  and  brushes  four 
cables  are  laid  from  the  static  transformers  lo- 
cated in  the  room  below  them  by  which  the  bi- 
phase alternating  current  is  conveyed  to  the 
armature  at  the  required  voltage.  On  the 
opposite  end  of  the  armature  are  other  com- 
195 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

mutators  and  brushes,  by  means  of  which  a 
direct  current  of  550  volts  is  delivered  to  the 
pole  system  of  the  Niagara  Falls  terminus  of 
the  trolley  road  leading  to  Buffalo  and  to 
other  places  on  the  line.  Two  of  these  small 
machines  represent  the  steam  engine  and  dy- 
namo outfit  which,  with  the  requisite  boiler 
plant,  would  be  required  to  do  the  same  work 
in  generating  power  by  direct  current  of  low 
pressure,  and  the  contrast  between  steam- 
driven  electric  installation  and  the  direct  de- 
livery of  electricity  from  Niagara  Falls  might 
have  been  seen  to  advantage  when,  in  the  large 
power  house  of  the  railway  to  Buffalo,  three 
rotary  transformers  were  set  up  in  a  corner  to 
take  the  place  of  the  many  boilers,  engines, 
and  dynamos,  which,  since  then,  have  stood 
unused. 

Reference  has  already  been  made  to  the 
brick  structures  in  the  power  house  which  cor- 
respond with  the  usual  switchboard  equipment 
of  electric  plants,  and  on  which  are  placed  the 
various  instruments  required  by  the  attend- 
ants to  regulate  the  current  controlling  the  dy- 
namos and  the  current  being  generated.  On 
these  elevated  platforms  can  be  seen  a  number 
196 


THE   UTILIZATION   OF  NIAGARA'S   POWER. 

of  stands  or  cabinets,  the  larger  of  which  are 
equipped  with  the  instruments  pertaining  to 
each  of  the  dynamos  and  the  exciters.  The 
smaller  stands,  on  which  are  electric  lamps, 
support  the  levers  which  operate  the  current 
breakers  of  the  main  circuits,  the  lights  indica- 
ting when  the  current  has  been  established. 
The  switches  or  circuit  breakers  themselves 
are  operated  by  compressed  air,  and  are  situ- 
ated in  the  brick  enclosure  below  the  platform, 
where  they  can  be  seen  through  the  glass 
doors  that  extend  along  one  side  of  the  struc- 
ture. All  of  the  recording  instruments  are 
located  in  the  electrician's  office  at  the  north 
end  of  the  building,  where  the  main  conduc- 
tors pass  out  and  across  the  canal  to  the  trans- 
former house  on  the  opposite  side. 

A  passenger  elevator  located  near  the  fifth 
and  sixth  large  generators  gives  access  to  the 
ten  iron  floors  or  platforms  in  the  wheelpit,  the 
lowest  of  which  is  132  feet  below  the  power 
house  floor.  The  first  platform  immediately 
below  the  main  floor  is  termed  the  "  thrust- 
bearing  deck,"  being  at  the  level  of  the  shaft 
bearing  before  mentioned  that  takes  the  end 

thrust  of  the  rotating  parts  of  the  machinery. 
197 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

Here  also  can  be  seen  the  driving  mechanism 
of  the  governors,  and  some  of  the  massive 
levers  that  operate  the  ring  gates  of  the  tur- 
bines as  well  as  the  neatly  arranged  system  of 
iron  and  brass  pipe  conductors  for  the  water 
and  oil  supply,  and  through  open  hatchways 
at  this  level  one  can  see  and  appreciate  the 
enormous  depth  of  the  underground  works, 
the  huge  penstocks  and  the  rotating  shafts 
transmitting  power  to  the  turbines.  Since 
completing  the  work  beyond  the  three  units 
installed  prior  to  1895,  the  entire  length  of  the 
pit  has  been  lined  with  brick,  and  all  the  vari- 
ous gangways  and  platforms  constructed  of 
iron  and  steel.  The  pit  is  lighted  throughout 
by  electricity,  and  being  dry  and  kept  scrupu- 
lously clean,  the  interesting  features  of  the 
work  below  the  power  house  floor  may  be 
seen  to  advantage  and  with  comfort,  as  com- 
pared with  the  condition  that  existed  during 
the  early  years  of  its  use,  when  streams  of 
water  from  underground  springs  jetted  from 
the  rock  walls.  These  springs  still  exist,  but 
their  discharge  is  carried  off  by  a  perfect  sys- 
tem of  drainage  back  of  the  brick  walls  that 
form  the  lining.  On  the  lowest  deck  may  be 
198 


TEE   UTILIZATION   OF  NIAGARA'S   POWER. 

seen  through  a  small  trap-door  the  torrent  of 
water  which  pours  from  the  turbines,  which 
are  quite  hidden  by  the  spray  that  glistens  in 
the  light  of  the  electric  lamps. 

After  the  completion  of  the  power  house  to 
its  full  capacity  the  line  of  the  Junction  Rail- 
way was  so  changed  as  to  make  it  advisable  to 
bring  its  tracks  into  the  south  end  of  the  build- 
ing in  order  to  admit  the  cars  which  deliver 
the  lubricating  oil  required  for  the  machinery, 
which  is  placed  in  tanks  below  the  power 
house  floor.  From  these  stationary  oil  tanks 
of  5,000  gallons  capacity  the  oil  can  be  fed 
through  a  meter,  by  which  it  is  measured,  to 
the  shaft  bearings  in  the  wheelpit,  as  it  may  be 
required  to  replace  the  slight  loss  in  oil  inci- 
dent to  the  perfect  automatic  lubricating  sys- 
tem. The  oil  is  lifted  by  pumps  to  an  over- 
head reservoir  near  the  roof  of  the  power 
house,  from  which  height  the  various  bearings 
are  supplied  by  gravity,  and  after  use  the  oil 
passes  to  the  filtering  or  recuperating  plant  in 
the  wheelpit,  to  be  returned  in  good  condition 
to  the  overhead  source  of  supply. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  inlet  canal  stands 
the  transformer  house,  the  building  con- 
199 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

structed  of  stone  similar  to  that  used  in  the 
other  works,  and  in  this  building  are  located 
all  of  the  large  step-up  transformers,  which 
serve  two  purposes.  First,  to  raise  the  pres- 
sure or  voltage  of  the  current  from  2,200  volts 
to  11,000  or  22,000  volts  as  may  be  required, 
and  secondly,  to  convert  the  bi-phase  current 
generated  by  the  dynamos  into  a  tri-phase  sys- 
tem, thus  enabling  three  conductors  of  equal 
size  to  carry  to  a  distance  the  same  amount  of 
electricity  as  four  similar  cables  would  do  in 
the  case  of  the  bi-phase  system.  Four  cables 
lead  to  each  transformer,  but  three  only  are 
used  in  each  of  the  several  pole  lines  to  Buffalo 
and  to  other  points,  including  some  of  the  near- 
by industrial  establishments.  From  the  trans- 
former house  a  tunnel  or  conduit  is  extended 
through  which  the  cables  conveying  current 
to  local  consumers  are  carried,  and  from  this 
conduit  the  branches  extend  to  the  plants  of 
the  several  consumers  by  an  underground 
system  similar  to  that  employed  in  large  cities. 
Between  the  power  house  and  the  mouth  of 
the  inlet  canal  stands  a  building  containing  the 
filtering  plant  for  the  water  supply  of  the  city 
of  Niagara  Falls.  The  pumps  used  for  lifting 

200 


THE   UTILIZATION   OF  NIAGARA'S   POWER. 

the  water  from  the  canal  to  the  filtering  tanks 
are  electrically  driven,  and  the  tanks  are  fitted 
with  appliances  which  permit  the  daily  clean- 
ing of  the  filtering  bed  within  them.  The 
tanks  are  arranged  in  rows,  and  in  each  the 
water,  as  it  comes  from  the  river,  can  be  seen 
pouring  over  a  shield  and  flowing  over  the  bed 
of  sand  through  which  it  passes  to  a  reservoir 
below.  From  this  reservoir  pipes  convey  the 
water  to  the  wheelpit  under  the  power  house, 
where,  in  chambers  excavated  in  the  solid 
rock,  arched  and  lined  with  brick,  are  powerful 
Riedler  pumps  actuated  by  impulse  wheels  of 
the  Pelton  type.  The  water  by  means  of  this 
machinery  is  pumped  directly  into  the  city 
mains  at  60  pounds  per  square  inch  pressure 
for  house  domestic  use,  but  in  case  of  fire  the 
pressure  is  raised  to  120  pounds  per  square 
inch.  The  fire  department  of  the  city  can 
therefore  dispense  with  engines  and  fight  the 
fires  direct  by  hose  only  from  the  plugs  in  the 
street,  the  pressure  being  about  the  same  as 
that  obtained  by  the  modern  steam  fire  en- 
gines. A  stand  pipe  on  the  hill  north  of  the 
city  serves  to  regulate  the  pressure  so  far  as 
the  water  supply  for  domestic  use  is  concerned, 

201 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

and  an  automatic  valve  arrangement  cuts  off 
the  stand-pipe  to  prevent  overflow  when  the 
pressure  is  raised  for  fire  purposes. 

Visitors  having  access  to  the  power  house 
floor  can  obtain  a  fine  view  of  the  canal  and 
the  various  buildings  from  a  wide  paved  space 
between  the  power  house  and  the  canal  wall. 
They  can  also  see  the  long  rack  extending  the 
entire  length  of  the  building  in  front  of  the  in- 
lets or  channels  that  lead  the  water  to  the  re- 
spective turbines.  At  the  river  end  of  the 
canal  is  a  wooden  boom  to  prevent  logs  and 
other  large  drifting  matter  from  entering  the 
waterways,  the  racks  above  alluded  to  serving 
to  arrest  the  grass  and  other  small  floating 
matter  that  might  otherwise  enter  the  pen- 
stocks. 

The  river  bed  at  the  mouth  of  the  canal  has 
been  deepened  by  dredging,  and  a  broad  stone 
causeway  starting  from  the  mainland  imme- 
diately above  this  point  crosses  to  Grass  Isl- 
and, which  is  thus  rendered  accessible  for 
future  improvement. 

From  this  great  central  station  now  finished 
and  in  full  operation,  over  50,000  electrical 
horse-power  is  being  utilized  in  establishments 

202 


THE   UTILIZATION   OF  NIAGARA'S  POWER. 

at  Niagara  Falls,  Buffalo,  Tonawanda,  Lock- 
port  and  on  the  trolley  line  between  Niagara 
Falls  and  these  neighboring  communities. 

Electric  power  from  this  station  operates  all 
the  street  car  lines  and  supplies  all  the  munici- 
pal lighting  in  the  city  of  Buffalo,  distant 
twenty-six  miles,  and  the  Pan-American  Ex- 
position of  1901,  to  be  held  in  that  city,  will  be 
lighted  and  much  of  its  machinery  operated 
from  this  same  central  station  at  Niagara  Falls. 

A  large  part  of  this  50,000  electrical  horse- 
power is  used  at  Niagara  Falls  by  twenty  ten- 
ants, on  the  power  company's  lands,  for  the 
manufacture,  by  electrolytic  and  electro- 
chemical processes,  of  various  metals  and 
chemicals,  and  the  company,  in  addition  to 
furnishing  this  electrical  horse-power,  supplies 
8,000  hydraulic  power  for  the  operation  of  the 
International  Paper  Company,  its  first  power 
tenant  in  point  of  use  of  power. 

The  beginning  of  the  2Oth  century  finds  the 
work  well  advanced  toward  a  further  exten- 
sion of  the  system,  already  less  than  ten  years 
old,  and  a  new  wheelpit  to  accommodate 
eleven  additional  turbines  is  being  constructed 

on  the  east  side  of  the  inlet  canal  opposite  the 
203 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

present  central  station,  but  located  nearer  the 
river.  The  general  architectural  features  of 
the  power  house  to  be  erected  will  be  in  har- 
mony with  the  existing  buildings,  but  will  pro- 
vide more  commodious  offices  and  will  be  of 
improved  fireproof  construction  throughout. 
The  machinery  will  embody  the  latest  im- 
provements known  and  suggested  by  the  five 
years  of  experience  with  the  present  installa- 
tion, that  has  proved  so  successful  and  eco- 
nomical in  the  development  of  power  at  Niag- 
ara Falls,  and  the  best  effort  of  those  who  have 
cooperated  in  developing  the  engineering  fea- 
tures of  the  present  plan  is  being  brought  to 
bear  upon  the  improvements  in  contempla- 
tion. Those  who  are  familiar  with  the  sur- 
roundings of  Niagara  Falls  in  the  past  cannot 
but  be  impressed  by  the  improvements  which 
have  followed  this  great  water-power  develop- 
ment. Outside  of  the  natural  attractions  of 
the  Falls,  framed  in  their  beautiful  setting  of 
lands  forever  reserved  as  a  park  on  both  sides 
of  the  river,  fine  avenues  are  taking  the  place 
of  former  dirt  roads,  permanent  bridges  span 
the  stream,  new  and  more  substantial  build- 
ings are  being  erected  throughout  the  city, 
204 


THE   UTILIZATION  OF  NIAGARA'S  POWER. 

while  cheap  and  rapid  transportation  has  been 
established  to  points  of  interest  before  not 
readily  accessible.  More  than  1,500  acres  of 
land  are  under  the  control  of  the  Niagara  Falls 
Power  Company  and  its  allied  corporations, 
extending  to  the  east  of  the  city  and  partly 
within  its  limits,  and  great  industrial  establish- 
ments have  grown  up  on  reclaimed  ground 
that  ten  years  ago  was  too  low  for  cultivation 
or  use  for  any  purpose. 

The  town  of  Echota,  the  name  signifying 
"  A  place  of  rest,"  has  grown  up  upon  the 
lands  of  the  allied  companies,  the  dwellings 
and  their  arrangement  forming  a  model  village 
furnished  with  light,  water,  and  a  very  com- 
plete and  perfect  sewage-disposal  system, 
while,  as  before  mentioned,  the  tracks  of  the 
Junction  Railway  bring  all  parts  of  the  com- 
pany's land,  and  the  industries  to  which  power 
is  furnished,  into  direct  communication  with 
the  great  railways  of  the  State  that  pass 
through  the  city  of  Niagara  Falls. 

In  regard  to  the  character  of  the  power  gen- 
erated and  distributed,  it  is  interesting  to  note 
that  while  the  Cataract  Construction  Com- 
pany was  considering  the  problem  of  develop- 
205 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

ing  the  power  of  the  Falls  to  the  best  interest 
of  the  Niagara  Falls  Power  Company,  those 
who  directed  its  affairs,  with  admirable  fore- 
thought and  in  the  face  of  great  opposition  on 
the  part  of  high  technical  authorities,  adopted 
not  only  the  alternating  current  system,  whose 
advocates  were  then  in  the  minority,  but  they 
fixed  on  a  bi-phase  alternating  current  of 
twenty-five  full  alternations  per  second,  greatly 
below  what  was  in  use  for  lighting  purposes  but 
considered  as  favorable  to  the  transmission  of 
power.  By  limiting  the  rate  of  alternations  to 
what  is  best  adapted  to  power  transmission,  a 
very  high  efficiency  has  been  achieved,  and  the 
multi-phase  alternating  current  lends  itself  to 
all  the  requirements  of  electrical  energy  by 
subsequent  conversion  into  higher  or  lower 
pressure  or  to  transformation  into  direct  cur- 
rent when  desired.  In  point  of  fact,  all  the  dy- 
namos generate  alternate  current,  which,  in 
the  case  of  direct  current  apparatuses  straight- 
ened out  by  the  addition  of  a  commutator  on 
the  generator.  This  commutator  has  a  cylin- 
der formed  of  segmental  bars  of  copper 
placed  together  like  the  staves  of  a  barrel,  and 
separated  by  insulating  material  so  connected 
206 


Photograph  by  Nielson. 


THE   AMERICAN    FALL   FROM    BELOW. 


THE    UTILIZATION   OF  NIAGARA'S   POWER. 

to  the  coils  of  the  armature  that  the  brushes 
under  which  the  bars  sweep  carry  to  the  con- 
ductors the  pulsations  of  electricity  that  are  in 
the  right  direction,  thus  enabling  the  gener- 
ator to  furnish  a  constant  or  direct  current. 
An  alternating  current,  on  the  other  hand, 
passes  to  the  external  circuit  without  rectifica- 
tion, and  may  be  raised  or  lowered  by  static 
transformers,  or  it  may  be  converted  by  rotary 
transformers  into  direct  current  of  any  re- 
quired pressure  or  voltage.  The  application 
of  this  system  in  the  development  of  power  at 
Niagara  Falls  has  proved  most  successful,  and 
its  wonderful  elasticity  has  grown  daily  more 
apparent  since  the  first  alternators  were  put 
in  motion  in  1895. 

Since  the  plant  at  Niagara  Falls  was  first  put 
in  operation  in  1895,  the  great  advantage  of 
power  transmission  by  means  of  electricity  has 
been  recognized  and  has  rapidly  gained  favor 
with  manufacturers  all  over  the  country.  As 
compared  with  all  other  modes  of  long  dis- 
tance transmission,  it  has  been  accepted  as  un- 
doubtedly the  best,  and  even  for  a  short  trans- 
mission, as  from  the  steam  engine  or  the  water 
wheels  to  the  machines  to  be  operated,  elec- 
207 


THE  NIAGARA.  BOOK. 

tricity  has  been  found  more  economical  than 
transmission  by  shafting,  belts,  and  pulleys. 
Very  many  big  establishments  have  erected 
large  electrical  generating  stations  to  drive 
their  machinery  by  motors,  either  connected 
directly  to  the  machines  to  be  operated  or  to 
groups  of  machines,  not  only  saving  thereby 
the  loss  due  to  ordinary  shaft-transmission, 
but  by  doing  away  with  belts  and  overhead 
pulleys,  much  space  is  secured  for  the  better 
handling  of  material  by  cranes  or  other  hoist- 
ing devices  also  operated  by  electricity.  In  the 
case  under  consideration,  as  at  Buffalo,  elec- 
tricity delivered  from  Niagara  Falls  has 
proved  to  be  not  only  cheaper  than  that  devel- 
oped by  fuel,  but  has  the  advantage  of  con- 
stancy and  of  avoidance  of  all  risk  from  sudden 
shortage  of  coal  as  caused  by  strikes  or  exces- 
sive cost  of  power  incident  to  the  rise  in  price 
of  fuel.  Great  as  are  the  coal  fields  of  Amer- 
ica, they  are  not  exhaustless,  nor  does  the  coal 
yield  the  whole  of  its  heat  units  when  con- 
sumed. Even  under  the  most  improved 
methods  of  consumption  and  utilization  it  is 
but  a  small  fraction  of  the  theoretical  power 
that  serves  a  useful  purpose,  and  Nature  offers 
208 


THE   UTILIZATION   OF  NIAGARA'S   POWER. 

no  promise  of  reproduction  of  coal  to  take  the 
place  of  that  taken  from  the  earth.  On  the 
other  hand,  the  overflowing  water  of  the  great 
Falls  of  Niagara,  which  has  been  passing  for 
ages  almost  unused  to  the  sea,  can  be  utilized 
as  a  source  of  power  with  positive  assurance  as 
to  its  continuity  and  stability  at  all  times. 

The  Cataract  of  Niagara  derives  its  power 
from  the  orderly  operation  of  the  laws  of  na- 
ture. The  constantly  acting  force  of  gravita- 
tion speeds  the  river  to  the  ocean,  where  its 
waters  are  vaporized  and  returned  inland  to  be 
deposited  by  condensation  on  the  rainsheds 
feeding  lakes  and  rivers.  Over  the  immense 
area  which  constitutes  the  drainage  basin  of 
the  Great  Lakes,  the  varying  climatic  condi- 
tions producing  drought  or  flood  seem  to  aver- 
age themselves,  and  this,  together  with  the  vast 
storage  capacity  of  the  lake  reservoirs,  renders 
the  volume  of  water  subject  to  scarcely  notice- 
able variations,  exactly  as  the  ocean  seems  to 
show  little  rise  or  fall  other  than  that  of  the 
tide.  To  this  condition  is  due  the  great  uni- 
formity of  the  flow  of  the  river  from  Lake  Erie 
to  the  Falls,  making  it  the  nearest  possible  ap- 
proach to  perpetual  motion.  A  small  im- 
14  209 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

pounded  mass  of  water  rarely  represents  a  uni- 
form source  of  water  power,  as  it  is  likely  to 
be  reduced  by  drought  or  suddenly  increased 
by  flood,  according  to  the  conditions  affecting 
the  condensation  of  the  vapors  passing  inland 
from  the  ocean.  It  is  this  apparent  uniformity 
at  all  seasons  that  gives  the  Niagara  River, 
with  its  great  lake  reservoirs  behind  it,  an  al- 
most unique  advantage  as  a  source  of  power, 
and  has  warranted  such  an  expenditure  of 
thought  and  money  in  its  development.  The 
capitalists  who  have  invested  so  liberally  in 
this  great  work  have  done  so  with  full  appre- 
ciation of  the  difficulties  to  be  encountered, 
and  with  abiding  faith  in  the  ultimate  success 
of  the  undertaking.  The  spirit  of  specula- 
tion has  not  controlled  the  development,  but 
from  the  outset  it  has  been  the  aim  of  those  in- 
terested to  make  it  a  commercial  success  by  the 
application  of  the  best  engineering  methods 
and  the  highest  manufacturing  skill.  Through 
what  was  known  as  the  Niagara  Falls  Inter- 
national Commission,  which  met  in  London  in 
1890-91,  careful  and  extensive  consideration 
was  given  to  the  state  of  the  arts  in  the  genera- 
tion of  hydraulic  power  and  its  transmission 

210 


THE   UTILIZATION   OF  NIAGARA'S   POWER. 

and  utilization.  The  conclusions  thus  arrived 
at  helped  to  determine  the  nature  of  the  in- 
stallation, and  in  carrying  out  the  work  ever.y 
attention  has  been  paid  to  durability  and  con- 
struction, economy  in  the  use  of  power,  and 
the  best  methods  of  securing  the  greatest  con- 
tinuity of  service  in  generation  and  transmis- 
sion to  consumers  under  the  climatic  and  acci- 
dental causes  tending  to  interrupt  it. 

Although  the  nature  and  magnitude  of  the 
development  were  without  precedent,  and 
called  for  the  invention  of  special  machinery 
and  appliances,  the  engineering  skill  applied 
to  this,  based  on  sound  scientific  principles  and 
practical  experience,  raised  the  work  above  the 
level  of  mere  theory  and  experiment,  and  this 
is  evidenced  in  the  successful  operation  of  the 
plant  and  the  high  efficiency  attained  with  it 
from  the  outset.  The  50,000  horse-power 
now  being  utilized  will,  on  completion  of  the 
work  in  progress,  be  increased  to  more  than 
100,000  horse-power,  and  this  great  energy  is 
rendered  available  without  disturbing  in  the 
least  the  natural  beauties  of  the  Falls.  On  the 
contrary,  the  development  lends  a  new  attrac- 
tion to  Niagara,  both  for  those  who  are  inter- 

211 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

ested  in  the  work  from  an  engineering  stand- 
point, representing  as  it  does  the  most  ad- 
vanced state  of  the  arts,  and  also  to  the  general 
public,  who  cannot  but  be  impressed  with  the 
magnitude  of  the  undertaking  and  the  thought 
of  this  great  power  being  turned  to  the  uses 
of  man.  Not  only  is  it  being  utilized  close  at 
hand,  but  it  is  finding  its  way  further  and 
further  from  its  source,  and  the  frequently 
repeated  inquiry  as  to  whether  this  energy 
may  be  transmitted  to  Buffalo  and  distant 
points  where  fuel  is  dear  is  rinding  its  answer 
in  the  increased  demand  for  power  thus  trans- 
mitted, as  each  year  discovers  new  markets 
and  new  uses  for  it. 


212 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

PART  II. 

FIRST  AUTHENTIC  MENTION  OF  N.  F.  MARK  TWAIN. 

NIAGARA,  FIRST  AND  LAST.       WILLIAM  DEAN  HOWELLS. 
As  IT  RUSHES  BY.  EDWARD  S.  MARTIN. 

FAMOUS  VISITORS  AT  N.  F.          Rev.  THOMAS  R.  SLICER. 


PART  II. 

THE    FIRST   AUTHENTIC 
MENTION. 

BY  MARK  TWAIN. 

Extracts  from  Adam's  Diary. 

MONDAY. — This  new  creature  with  the  long 
hair  is  a  good  deal  in  the  way.  It  is  always 
hanging  around  and  following  me  about.  I 
don't  like  this;  I  am  not  used  to  company. 
I  wish  it  would  stay  with  the  other  animals.  . 
Cloudy  to-day,  wind  in  the  east;  think  we  shall 
have  rain.  .  We?  Where  did  I  get  that  word? 
I  remember  now — the  new  creature  uses  it. 

TUESDAY. — Been  examining  the  great 
waterfall.  It  is  the  finest  thing  on  the  estate, 
I  think.  The  new  creature  calls  it  Niagara 
Falls — why,  I  am  sure  I  do  not  know.  Says 
it  looks  like  Niagara  Falls.  That  is  not  a  rea- 
son, it  is  mere  waywardness  and  imbecility.  I 
get  no  chance  to  name  anything  myself.  The 
new  creature  names  everything  that  comes 
215 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

along,  before  I  can  get  in  a  protest.  And 
always  that  same  pretext  is  offered — it  looks 
like  the  thing.  There  is  the  dodo,  for  in- 
stance. Says  the  moment  one  looks  at  it  one 
sees  at  a  glance  that  it  "  looks  like  a  dodo."  It 
will  have  to  keep  that  name,  no  doubt.  It 
wearies  me  to  fret  about  it,  and  it  does  no 
good,  anyway.  Dodo !  It  looks  no  more  like 
a  dodo  than  I  do. 

WEDNESDAY. — Built  me  a  shelter  against 
the  rain,  but  could  not  have  it  to  myself  in 
peace.  The  new  creature  intruded.  When  I 
tried  to  put  it  out  it  shed  water  out  of  the  holes 
it  looks  with,  and  wiped  it  away  with  the  back 
of  its  paws,  and  made  a  noise  such  as  some  of 
the  other  animals  make  when  they  are  in  dis- 
tress. I  wish  it  would  not  talk;  it  is  always 
talking.  That  sounds  like  a  cheap  fling  at  the 
poor  creature,  a  slur;  but  I  do  not  mean  it  so. 
I  have  never  heard  the  human  voice  before, 
and  any  new  and  strange  sound  intruding  it- 
self here  upon  the  solemn  hush  of  these  dream- 
ing solitudes  offends  my  ear  and  seems  a  false 
note.  And  this  new  sound  is  so  close  to  me ; 
it  is  right  at  my  shoulder,  right  at  my  ear,  first 
on  one  side  and  then  on  the  other,  and  I  am 
216 


Photograph  by  Nielson. 
ROCK    OF    AGES    AND    CAVE    OF   THE    WINDS. 


THE  NIAGARA.  BOOK. 

its  muddy  feet.  And  talks.  It  used  to  be  so 
pleasant  and  quiet  here. 

SUNDAY. — Pulled  through.  This  day  is  get- 
ting to  be  more  and  more  trying.  It  was  se- 
lected and  set  apart  last  November  as  a  day  of 
rest.  I  had  already  six  of  them  per  week  be- 
fore. This  morning  found  the  new  creature 
trying  to  clod  apples  out  of  that  forbidden  tree. 

MONDAY. — The  new  creature  says  its  name 
is  Eve.  That  is  all  right,  I  have  no  objections. 
Says  it  is  to  call  it  by,  when  I  want  it  to  come. 
I  said  it  was  superfluous,  then.  The  word  evi- 
dently raised  me  in  its  respect;  and  indeed  it 
is  a  large,  good  word  and  will  bear  repetition. 
It  says  it  is  not  an  It,  it  is  a  She.  This  is  prob- 
ably doubtful;  yet  it  is  all  one  to  me;  what  she 
is  were  nothing  to  me  if  she  would  but  go  by 
herself  and  not  talk. 

TUESDAY. — She  has  littered  the  whole  estate 
with  execrable  names  and  offensive  signs: 

THIS  WAY  TO  THE  WHIRLPOOL. 

THIS  WAY  TO  GOAT  ISLAND. 
CAVE  OF  THE  WINDS  THIS  WAY. 

She  says  this  park  would  make  a  tidy  sum- 
mer resort  if  there  was  any  custom  for  it.  Sum- 
mer resort — another  invention  of  hers — just 
218 


THE  FIRST  AUTHENTIC  MENTION. 

words,  without  any  meaning.  What  is  a  sum- 
mer resort  ?  But  it  is  best  not  to  ask  her,  she 
has  such  a  rage  for  explaining. 

FRIDAY. — She  has  taken  to  beseeching  me 
to  stop  going  over  the  Falls.  What  harm  does 
it  do  ?  Says  it  makes  her  shudder.  I  wonder 
why;  I  have  always  done  it — always  liked  the 
plunge,  and  the  excitement  and  the  coolness. 
I  supposed  it  was  what  the  Falls  were  for. 
They  have  no  other  use  that  I  can  see,  and 
they  must  have  been  made  for  something.  She 
says  they  were  only  made  for  scenery — lik.e 
the  rhinoceros  and  the  mastodon. 

I  went  over  the  Falls  in  a  barrel — not  satis- 
factory to  her.  Went  over  in  a  tub — still  not 
satisfactory.  Swam  the  Whirlpool  and  the 
Rapids  in  a  fig-leaf  suit.  It  got  much  dam- 
aged. Hence,  tedious  complaints  about  my 
extravagance.  I  am  too  much  hampered  here. 
What  I  need  is  change  of  scene. 

SATURDAY. — I  escaped  last  Tuesday  night, 
and  travelled  two  days,  and  built  me  another 
shelter  in  a  secluded  place,  and  obliterated  my 
tracks  as  well  as  I  could,  but  she  hunted  me 
out  by  means  of  a  beast  which  she  has  tamed 
and  calls  a  wolf,  and  came  making  that  pitiful 
219 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

noise  again,  and  shedding  that  water  out  of  the 
places  she  looks  with.  I  was  obliged  to  return 
with  her,  but  will  presently  emigrate  again 
when  occasion  offers.  She  engages  herself  in 
many  foolish  things;  among  others,  to  study 
out  why  the  animals  called  lions  and  tigers 
live  on  grass  and  flowers,  when,  as  she  says, 
the  sort  of  teeth  they  wear  would  indicate  that 
they  were  intended  to  eat  each  other.  This  is 
foolish,  because  to  do  that  would  be  to  kill 
each  other,  and  that  would  introduce  what,  as 
I  understand  it,  is  called  "  death  ";  and  death, 
as  I  have  been  told,  has  not  yet  entered  the 
Park.  Which  is  a  pity,  on  some  accounts. 

SUNDAY. — Pulled  through. 

MONDAY. — I  believe  I  see  what  the  week  is 
for;  it  is  to  give  time  to  rest  up  from  the  weari- 
ness of  Sunday.  It  seems  a  good  idea.  .  .  . 
She  has  been  climbing  that  tree  again.  Clod- 
ded her  out  of  it.  She  said  nobody  was  look- 
ing. Seems  to  consider  that  a  sufficient  justi- 
fication for  chancing  any  dangerous  thing. 
Told  her  that.  The  word  justification  moved 
her  admiration — and  envy,  too,  I  thought.  It 
is  a  good  word. 

TUESDAY. — She  told  me  she  was  made  out 
220 


THE  FIRST  AUTHENTIC   MENTION. 

of  a  rib  taken  from  my  body.  This  is  at  least 
doubtful,  if  not  more  than  that.  I  have  not 
missed  any  rib.  .  .  .  She  is  in  much  trou- 
ble about  the  buzzard;  says  grass  does  not 
agree  with  it;  is  afraid  she  can't  raise  it;  thinks 
it  was  intended  to  live  on  decayed  flesh.  The 
buzzard  must  get  along  the  best  it  can  with 
what  it  is  provided.  We  cannot  overturn  the 
whole  scheme  to  accommodate  the  buzzard. 

SATURDAY. — She  fell  in  the  pond  yesterday 
when  she  was  looking  at  herself  in  it,  which  she 
is  always  doing.  She  nearly  strangled,  and 
said  it  was  most  uncomfortable.  This  made 
her  sorry  for  the  creatures  which  live  in  there, 
which  she  calls  fish,  for  she  continues  to  fasten 
names  on  to  things  that  don't  need  them  and 
don't  come  when  they  are  called  by  them, 
which  is  a  matter  of  no  consequence  to  her,  she 
is  such  a  numskull,  anyway;  so  she  got  a  lot  of 
them  out  and  brought  them  in  last  night  and 
put  them  in  my  bed  to  keep  warm,  but  I  have 
noticed  them  now  and  then  all  day  and  I  don't 
see  that  they  are  any  happier  there  than  they 
were  before,  only  quieter.  When  night  comes 
I  shall  throw  them  outdoors.  I  will  not  sleep 
with  them  again,  for  I  find  them  clammy  and 

221 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

unpleasant  to  lie  among  when  a  person  hasn't 
anything  on. 

SUNDAY. — Pulled  through. 

TUESDAY. — She  has  taken  up  with  a  snake 
now.  The  other  animals  are  glad,  for  she  was 
always  experimenting  with  them  and  bother- 
ing them;  and  I  am  glad  because  the  snake 
talks,  and  this  enables  me  to  get  a  rest. 

FRIDAY. — She  says  the  snake  advises  her  to 
try  the  fruit  of  that  tree,  and  says  the  result 
will  be  a  great  and  fine  and  noble  education. 
I  told  her  there  would  be  another  result,  too 
— it  would  introduce  death  into  the  world. 
That  was  a  mistake — it  had  been  better  to  keep 
the  remark  to  myself;  it  only  gave  her  an  idea 
— she  could  save  the  sick  buzzard,  and  furnish 
fresh  meat  to  the  despondent  lions  and  tigers. 
I  advised  her  to  keep  away  from  the  tree.  She 
said  she  wouldn't.  I  foresee  trouble.  Will 
emigrate. 

WEDNESDAY. — I  have  had  a  variegated 
time.  I  escaped  that  night,  and  rode  a  horse 
all  night  as  fast  as  he  could  go,  hoping  to  get 
clear  out  of  the  Park  and  hide  in  some  other 
country  before  the  trouble  should  begin;  but 
it  was  not  to  be.  About  an  hour  after  sun-up, 

222 


THE  FIRST  AUTHENTIC  MENTION. 

as  I  was  riding  through  a  flowery  plain  where 
thousands  of  animals  were  grazing,  slumber- 
ing, or  playing  with  each  other,  according  to 
their  wont,  all  of  a  sudden  they  broke  into  a 
tempest  of  frightful  noises,  and  in  one  moment 
the  plain  was  a  frantic  commotion  and  every 
beast  was  destroying  its  neighbor.  I  knew 
what  it  meant — Eve  had  eaten  that  fruit,  and 
death  was  come  into  the  world.  .  .  .  The 
tigers  ate  my  horse,  paying  no  attention  when 
I  ordered  them  to  desist,  and  they  would  have 
eaten  me  if  I  had  stayed — which  I  didn't,  but 
went  away  in  much  haste.  ...  I  found 
this  place,  outside  the  Park,  and  was  fairly 
comfortable  for  a  few  days,  but  she  has  found 
me  out.  Found  me  out,  and  has  named  the 
place  Tonawanda — says  it  looks  like  that.  In 
fact  I  was  not  sorry  she  came,  for  there  are  but 
meagre  pickings  here,  and  she  brought  some 
of  those  apples.  I  was  obliged  to  eat  them,  I 
was  so  hungry.  It  was  against  my  principles, 
but  I  find  that  principles  have  no  real  force 
except  when  one  is  well  fed.  .  .  .  She 
came  curtained  in  boughs  and  bunches  of 
leaves,  and  when  I  asked  her  what  she  meant 
by  such  nonsense,  and  snatched  them  away 
223 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

and  threw  them  down,  she  tittered  and 
blushed.  I  had  never  seen  a  person  titter  and 
blush  before,  and  to  me  it  seemed  unbecoming 
and  idiotic.  She  said  I  would  soon  know  how 
it  was  myself.  This  was  correct.  Hungry  as 
I  was,  I  laid  down  the  apple  half-eaten — cer- 
tainly the  best  one  I  ever  saw,  considering  the 
lateness  of  the  season — and  arrayed  myself  in 
the  discarded  boughs  and  branches,  and  then 
spoke  to  her  with  some  severity  and  ordered 
her  to  go  and  get  some  more  and  not  make 
such  a  spectacle  of  herself.  She  did  it,  and 
after  this  we  crept  down  to  where  the  wild- 
beast  battle  had  been,  and  collected  some 
skins,  and  I  made  her  patch  together  a  couple 
of  suits  proper  for  public  occasions.  They  are 
uncomfortable,  it  is  true,  but  stylish,  and  that 
is  the  main  point  about  clothes.  ...  I 
find  she  is  a  good  deal  of  a  companion.  I  see 
I  should  be  lonesome  and  depressed  without 
her,  now  that  I  have  lost  my  property.  An- 
other thing,  she  says  it  is  ordered  that  we  work 
for  our  living  hereafter.  She  will  be  useful. 
I  will  superintend. 

TEN  DAYS  LATER. — She  accuses  me  of  being 
the  cause  of  our  disaster !     She  says,  with  ap- 
224 


THE  FIRST  AUTHENTIC  MENTION. 

parent  sincerity  and  truth,  that  the  Serpent 
assured  her  that  the  forbidden  fruit  was  not 
apples,  it  was  chestnuts.  I  said  I  was  inno- 
cent, then,  for  I  had  not  eaten  any  chestnuts. 
She  said  the  Serpent  informed  her  that  "  chest- 
nut "  was  a  figurative  term  meaning  an  aged 
and  mouldy  joke.  I  turned  pale  at  that,  for  I 
have  made  many  jokes  to  pass  the  weary  time, 
and  some  of  them  could  have  been  of  that  sort, 
though  I  had  honestly  supposed  that  they  were 
new  when  I  made  them.  She  asked  me  if  I 
had  made  one  just  at  the  time  of  the  catastro- 
phe. I  was  obliged  to  admit  that  I  had  made 
one  to  myself,  though  not  aloud.  It  was  this. 
I  was  thinking  about  the  Falls,  and  I  said  to 
myself,  "  How  wonderful  it  is  to  see  that  vast 
body  of  water  tumble  down  there !  "  Then  in 
an  instant  a  bright  thought  flashed  into  my 
head,  and  I  let  it  fly,  saying,  "  It  would  be  a 
deal  more  wonderful  to  see  it  tumble  up 
there !  " — and  I  was  just  about  to  kill  myself 
with  laughing  at  it  when  all  nature  broke  loose 
in  war  and  death  and  I  had  to  flee  for  my  life. 
"  There,"  she  said,  with  triumph,  "  that  is  just 
it;  the  Serpent  mentioned  that  very  jest,  and 
called  it  the  First  Chestnut,  and  said  it  was 
15  225 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

coeval  with  the  creation."  Alas,  I  am  indeed 
to  blame.  Would  that  I  were  not  witty;  oh, 
that  I  had  never  had  that  radiant  thought ! 

NEXT  YEAR. — We  have  named  it  Cain.  She 
caught  it  while  I  was  up  country  trapping  on 
the  North  Shore  of  the  Erie ;  caught  it  in  the 
timber  a  couple  of  miles  from  our  dug-out — 
or  it  might  have  been  four,  she  isn't  certain 
which.  It  resembles  us  in  some  ways,  and  may 
be  a  relation.  That  is  what  she  thinks,  but 
this  is  an  error,  in  my  judgment.  The  differ- 
ence in  size  warrants  the  conclusion  that  it  is 
a  different  and  new  kind  of  animal — a  fish,  per- 
haps, though  when  I  put  it  in  the  water  to  see, 
it  sank,  and  she  plunged  in  and  snatched  it  out 
before  there  was  opportunity  for  the  experi- 
ment to  determine  the  matter.  I  still  think 
it  is  a  fish,  but  she  is  indifferent  about  what  it 
is,  and  will  not  let  me  have  it  to  try.  I  do  not 
understand  this.  The  coming  of  the  creature 
seems  to  have  changed  her  whole  nature  and 
made  her  unreasonable  about  experiments. 
She  thinks  more  of  it  than  she  does  of  any  of 
the  other  animals,  but  is  not  able  to  explain 
why.  Her  mind  is  disordered — everything 
shows  it.  Sometimes  she  carries  the  fish  in 
226 


THE  FIRST  AUTHENTIC   MENTION. 

her  arms  half  the  night  when  it  complains  and 
wants  to  get  to  the  water.  At  such  times  the 
water  comes  out  of  the  places  in  her  face  that 
she  looks  out  of,  and  she  pats  the  fish  on  the 
back  and  makes  soft  sounds  with  her  mouth 
to  soothe  it,  and  betrays  sorrow  and  solicitude 
in  a  hundred  ways.  I  have  never  seen  her  do 
like  this  with  any  other  fish,  and  it  troubles 
me  greatly.  She  used  to  carry  the  young 
tigers  around  so,  and  play  with  them,  before 
we  lost  our  property,  but  it  was  only  play;  she 
never  took  on  about  them  like  this  when  their 
dinner  disagreed  with  them. 

SUNDAY. — She  doesn't  work,  Sundays,  but 
lies  around  all  tired  out,  and  likes  to  have  the 
fish  wallow  over  her;  and  she  makes  fool 
noises  to  amuse  it,  and  pretends  to  chew  its 
paws,  and  that  makes  it  laugh.  I  have  not 
seen  a  fish  before  that  could  laugh.  This 
makes  me  doubt.  ...  I  have  come  to  like 
Sunday  myself.  Superintending  all  the  week 
tires  a  body  so.  There  ought  to  be  more  Sun- 
days. In  the  old  days  they  were  tough,  but 
now  they  come  handy. 

WEDNESDAY. — It  isn't  a  fish.  I  cannot  quite 
make  out  what  it  is.  It  makes  curious  devil- 
227 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

ish  noises  when  not  satisfied,  and  says  "  goo- 
goo  "  when  it  is.  It  is  not  one  of  us,  for  it 
doesn't  walk;  it  is  not  a  bird,  for  it  doesn't  fly; 
it  is  not  a  frog,  for  it  doesn't  hop;  it  is  not  a 
snake,  for  it  doesn't  crawl;  I  feel  sure  it  is  not 
a  fish,  though  I  cannot  get  a  chance  to  find  out 
whether  it  can  swim  or  not.  It  merely  lies 
around,  and  mostly  on  its  back,  with  its  feet 
up.  I  have  not  seen  any  other  animal  do  that 
before.  I  said  I  believed  it  was  an  enigma; 
but  she  only  admired  the  word  without  under- 
standing it.  In  my  judgment  it  is  either  an 
enigma  or  some  kind  of  a  bug.  If  it  dies,  I 
will  take  it  apart  and  see  what  its  arrange- 
ments are.  I  never  had  a  thing  perplex  me  so. 
THREE  MONTHS  LATER. — The  perplexity 
augments  instead  of  diminishing.  I  sleep  but 
little.  It  has  ceased  from  lying  around,  and 
goes  about  on  its  four  legs  now.  Yet  it  differs 
from  the  other  four-legged  animals,  in  that 
its  front  legs  are  unusually  short,  consequently 
this  causes  the  main  part  of  its  person  to  stick 
up  uncomfortably  high  in  the  air,  and  this  is 
not  attractive.  It  is  built  much  as  we  are, 
but  its  method  of  travelling  shows  that  it  is  not 
of  our  breed.  The  short  front  legs  and  long 
228 


THE  FIRST  AUTHENTIC  MENTION. 

hind  ones  indicate  that  it  is  of  the  kangaroo 
family,  but  it  is  a  marked  variation  of  the  spe- 
cies, since  the  true  kangaroo  hops,  whereas 
this  one  never  does.  Still  it  is  a  curious  and 
interesting  variety,  and  has  not  been  cata- 
logued before.  As  I  discovered  it,  I  have  felt 
justified  in  securing  the  credit  of  the  discovery 
by  attaching  my  name  to  it,  and  hence  have 
called  it  Kangaroorum  Adamiensis.  .  .  . 
It  must  have  been  a  young  one  when  it 
came,  for  it  has  grown  exceedingly  since. 
It  must  be  five  times  as  big,  now,  as  it  was 
then,  and  when  discontented  it  is  able  to  make 
from  twenty-two  to  thirty-eight  times  the 
noise  it  made  at  first.  Coercion  does  not 
modify  this,  but  has  the  contrary  effect.  For 
this  reason  I  discontinued  the  system.  She 
reconciles  it  by  persuasion,  and  by  giving  it 
things  which  she  had  previously  told  it  she 
wouldn't  give  it.  As  already  observed,  I  was 
not  at  home  when  it  first  came,  and  she  told 
me  she  found  it  in  the  woods.  It  seems  odd 
that  it  should  be  the  only  one,  yet  it  must  be  so, 
for  I  have  worn  myself  out  these  many  weeks 
trying  to  find  another  one  to  add  to  my  collec- 
tion, and  for  this  one  to  play  with;  for  surely 
229 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

then  it  would  be  quieter  and  we  could  tame  it 
more  easily.  But  I  find  none,  nor  any  vestige 
of  any;  and,  strangest  of  all,  no  tracks.  It 
has  to  live  on  the  ground,  it  cannot  help  itself; 
therefore,  how  does  it  get  about  without  leav- 
ing a  track?  I  have  set  a  dozen  traps,  but 
they  do  no  good.  I  catch  all  small  animals 
except  that  one;  animals  that  merely  go  into 
the  trap  out  of  curiosity,  I  think,  to  see  what 
the  milk  is  there  for.  They  never  drink  it. 

THREE  MONTHS  LATER. — The  Kangaroo 
still  continues  to  grow,  which  is  very  strange 
and  perplexing.  I  never  knew  one  to  be  so 
long  getting  its  growth.  It  has  fur  on  its  head 
now;  not  like  kangaroo  fur,  but  exactly  like 
our  hair  except  that  it  is  much  finer  and  softer, 
and  instead  of  being  black  is  red.  I  am  like  to 
lose  my  mind  over  the  capricious  and  harass- 
ing developments  of  this  unclassifiable  zoologi- 
cal freak.  If  I  could  catch  another  one — but 
that  is  hopeless;  it  is  a  new  variety,  and  the 
only  sample;  this  is  plain.  But  I  caught  a 
true  kangaroo  and  brought  it  in,  thinking  that 
this  one,  being  lonesome,  would  rather  have 
that  for  company  than  have  no  kin  at  all,  or  any 
animal  it  could  feel  a  nearness  to  or  get  sym- 
230 


THE  FIRST  AUTHENTIC  MENTION. 

pathy  from  in  its  forlorn  condition  here  among 
strangers  who  do  not  know  its  ways  or  habits, 
or  what  to  do  to  make  it  feel  that  it  is  among 
friends;  but  it  was  a  mistake — it  went  into  such 
fits  at  the  sight  of  the  kangaroo  that  I  was 
convinced  it  had  never  seen  one  before.  I  pity 
the  poor  noisy  little  animal,  but  there  is  noth- 
ing I  can  do  to  make  it  happy.  If  I  could 
tame  it — but  that  is  out  of  the  question;  the 
more  I  try  the  worse  I  seem  to  make  it.  It 
grieves  me  to  the  heart  to  see  it  in  its  little 
storms  of  sorrow  and  passion.  I  wanted  to  let 
it  go,  but  she  wouldn't  hear  of  it.  That  seemed 
cruel  and  not  like  her;  and  yet  she  may  be 
right.  It  might  be  lonelier  than  ever;  for 
since  I  cannot  find  another  one,  how  could  it? 
FIVE  MONTHS  LATER. — It  is  not  a  kan- 
garoo. No,  for  it  supports  itself  by  holding 
to  her  finger,  and  thus  goes  a  few  steps  on  its 
hind  legs,  and  then  falls  down.  It  is  probably 
some  kind  of  a  bear;  and  yet  it  has  no  tail — as 
yet — and  no  fur,  except  on  its  head.  It  still 
keeps  on  growing — that  is  a  curious  circum- 
stance, for  bears  get  their  growth  earlier  than 
this.  Bears  are  dangerous — since  our  catas- 
trophe— and  I  shall  not  be  satisfied  to  have 
231 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

this  one  prowling  about  the  place  much  longer 
without  a  muzzle  on.  I  have  offered  to  get 
her  a  kangaroo  if  she  would  let  this  one  go,  but 
it  did  no  good — she  is  determined  to  run  us 
into  all  sorts  of  foolish  risks,  I  think.  She  was 
not  like  this  before  she  lost  her  mind. 

A  FORTNIGHT  LATER. — I  examined  its 
mouth.  There  is  no  danger  yet;  it  has  only 
one  tooth.  It  has  no  tail  yet.  It  makes  more 
noise  now  than  it  ever  did  before — and  mainly 
at  night.  I  have  moved  out.  But  I  shall  go 
over,  mornings,  to  breakfast,  and  see  if  it  has 
more  teeth.  If  it  gets  a  mouthful  of  teeth  it 
will  be  time  for  it  to  go,  tail  or  no  tail,  for  a 
bear  does  not  need  a  tail  in  order  to  be  dan- 
gerous. 

FOUR  MONTHS  LATER. — I  have  been  off 
hunting  and  fishing  a  month,  up  in  the  region 
that  she  calls  Buffalo;  I  don't  know  why,  un- 
less it  is  because  there  are  not  any  buffaloes 
there.  Meantime  the  bear  has  learned  to  pad- 
dle around  all  by  itself  on  its  hind  legs,  and 
says  "  poppa  "  and  "  momma."  It  is  certainly 
a  new  species.  This  resemblance  to  words 
may  be  purely  accidental,  of  course,  and  may 
have  no  purpose  or  meaning;  but  even  in  that 
232 


THE  FIRST  AUTHENTIC  MENTION. 

case  it  is  still  extraordinary,  and  is  a  thing 
which  no  other  bear  can  do.  This  imitation 
of  speech,  taken  together  with  general  absence 
of  fur  and  entire  absence  of  tail,  sufficiently  in- 
dicates that  this  is  a  new  kind  of  bear.  The 
further  study  of  it  will  be  exceedingly  interest- 
ing. Meantime  I  will  go  off  on  a  far  expedi- 
tion among  the  forests  of  the  north  and  make 
an  exhaustive  search.  There  must  certainly 
be  another  one  somewhere,  and  this  one  will 
be  less  dangerous  when  it  has  company  of  its 
own  species.  I  will  go  straightway;  but  I 
will  muzzle  this  one  first. 

THREE  MONTHS  LATER. — It  has  been  a 
weary,  weary  hunt,  yet  I  have  had  no  success. 
In  the  meantime,  without  stirring  from  the 
home  estate,  she  has  caught  another  one!  I 
never  saw  such  luck.  I  might  have  hunted 
these  woods  a  hundred  years,  I  never  would 
have  run  across  that  thing. 

NEXT  DAY. — I  have  been  comparing  the 
new  one  with  the  old  one,  and  it  is  perfectly 
plain  that  they  are  the  same  breed.  I  was 
going  to  stuff  one  of  them  for  my  collection, 
but  she  is  prejudiced  against  it  for  some  reason 
or  other;  so  I  have  relinquished  the  idea, 
233 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

though  I  think  it  is  a  mistake.  It  would  be  an 
irreparable  loss  to  science  if  they  should  get 
away.  The  old  one  is  tamer  than  it  was,  and 
can  laugh  and  talk  like  the  parrot,  having 
learned  this,  no  doubt,  from  being  with  the 
parrot  so  much,  and  having  the  imitative  fac- 
ulty in  a  highly  developed  degree.  I  shall  be 
astonished  if  it  turns  out  to  be  a  new  kind  of 
parrot;  and  yet  I  ought  not  to  be  astonished, 
for  it  has  already  been  everything  else  it  could 
think  of  since  those  first  days  when  it  was  a 
fish.  The  new  one  is  as  ugly  now  as  the  old 
one  was  at  first;  has  the  same  sulphur-and-raw- 
meat  complexion  and  the  same  singular  head 
without  any  fur  on  it.  She  calls  it  Abel. 

TEN  YEARS  LATER. — They  are  boys;  we 
found  it  out  long  ago.  It  was  their  coming  in 
that  small,  immature  shape  that  puzzled  us;  we 
were  not  used  to  it.  There  are  some  girls 
now.  Abel  is  a  good  boy,  but  if  Cain  had 
stayed  a  bear  it  would  have  improved  him. 
After  all  these  years,  I  see  that  I  was  mistaken 
about  Eve  in  the  beginning;  it  is  better  to  live 
outside  the  Garden  with  her  than  inside  it  with- 
out her.  At  first  I  thought  she  talked  too 
much;  but  now  I  should  be  sorry  to  have 
234 


THE  FIRST  AUTHENTIC  MENTION. 

that  voice  fall  silent  and  pass  out  of  my 
life.  Blessed  be  the  chestnut  that  brought  us 
near  together  and  taught  me  to  know  the 
goodness  of  her  heart  and  the  sweetness  of  her 
spirit ! 


235 


NIAGARA,  FIRST   AND   LAST. 

BY  WILLIAM  D.  HOWELLS. 

I. 

In  the  spring  of  1860  I  wrote  a  life  of  Lin- 
coln. It  was  what  is  called  a  campaign  life, 
and  in  its  poor  way  it  was  a  part  of  the  elec- 
tioneering enginery  of  a  canvass  destined  to 
be,  if  not  the  most  memorable  in  our  history, 
at  least  of  the  farthest  effect.  To  be  quite 
honest,  I  must  own  that  my  book,  as  I  now 
look  back  on  the  facts,  probably  served  the 
mysterious  uses,  and  performed  the  vague  of- 
fices of  a  fifth  wheel  to  a  coach,  in  forwarding 
the  fortunes  of  the  man  whose  life  it  celebrated 
before  he  was  so  famous  as  to  need  no  blare  of 
trumpets,  not  to  say  willow  whistles,  evermore. 
What  seems  strange  is  that  the  great  renown 
of  Lincoln  has  not  reacted  upon  one  of  his 
earliest  biographies;  that  this  has  dropped  as 
236 


NIAGARA,  FIRST  AND  LAST. 

wholly  in  oblivion  as  if  it  was  the  story  of  no- 
body; the  coach  indeed  arrived  in  glory,  and 
was  found  to  be  the  car  of  victory,  the  fiery 
chariot  of  freedom;  but  the  fifth  wheel  seems 
to  have  stopped  somewhere  on  the  way. 

My  book  was  published  in  Columbus,  O., 
and  I  did  not  wait  for  its  assured  success  be- 
fore setting  forth  upon  some  travels  which  had 
long  invited  me.  The  publisher  had  so  much 
faith  in  it  as  to  be  willing  to  supply  me  in  ad- 
vance with  a  certain  sum  of  money,  say  fifty 
dollars  in  Ohio  money,  and  a  letter  of  credit, 
addressed  to  several  publishers  in  Boston  and 
New  York,  to  the  amount  of  some  hundred 
and  ninety  dollars  more.  I  meant  to  explore 
those  distant  capitals,  and  to  take  in  the  won- 
ders and  delights  of  the  St.  Lawrence  route 
to  Quebec,  and  to  acquaint  myself  with  the 
manners  and  customs  of  strange  peoples,  so  far 
as  they  were  to  be  studied  in  Canada.  For 
this  journey,  a  great  deal  of  money  was 
needed,  and  I  took  all  I  had.  I  do  not  know 
why  I  should  have  thought  it  well  to  spend  my 
whole  substance  upon  this  venture,  but  I  seem 
to  have  done  so;  and  I  had  no  compunctions, 
so  far  as  I  can  remember,  in  spending  so  much 
237 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

of  this  vast  sum  in  Ohio  money,  which  I  then 
believed  the  best  money  in  the  world.  I  found 
later  that  it  was  worth  only  eighty-five  or 
ninety  cents  on  the  dollar  in  Boston ;  one  was 
liable  to  these  surprises  in  the  days  of  State 
banking;  but  as  yet  I  was  troubled  with  no 
misgivings  when  I  left  Columbus,  and  took 
my  way  to  Buffalo,  where  I  thought  I  might 
fitly  rest  a  day  or  two,  and  recruit  my  strength 
for  the  impression  of  Niagara  which  I  was 
eager  to  receive.  I  spent  most  of  this  stay 
in  my  room  at  the  hotel,  writing  letters  for  a 
Cincinnati  paper,  which  had  agreed  to  take 
them  from  me.  The  passion  for  summer  cor- 
respondence has  not  yet  died  out  of  journal- 
ism, but  even  then  I  found  its  impulses  uncer- 
tain, and  many  of  the  letters  I  wrote  on  that 
journey  were  never  printed.  I  am  not  sure 
that  this  was  a  loss  to  literature;  but  it  cer- 
tainly was  a  loss  to  me  in  that  Ohio  money 
which  was  the  best  in  the  world.  When  I  was 
not  writing,  I  was  wandering  about  the  streets 
of  Buffalo,  and  viewing  its  monuments  from 
the  platform  of  a  horse  car,  or  from  its  pave- 
ments, not  so  much  crowded  then  as  now.  I 
forget  what  the  monuments  were  in  that  day; 
238 


NIAGARA,  FIRST  AND  LAST. 

I  even  forget  who  were  the  editors  of  the  pa- 
pers, whom  I  visited  after  the  simple  journal- 
istic usage  of  the  time,  and  conversed  with  in 
their  offices.  But  they  probably  had  their  re- 
venge, and  forgot  who  I  was  much  sooner.  I 
recall,  however,  that  it  was  all  very  stirring 
and  interesting,  and  that  I  tried  to  view  the 
novelties  I  found  everywhere  in  the  manner  of 
my  favorite  authors,  and  to  describe  them  in 
their  style.  The  chief  of  these  authors  was 
then  Heinrich  Heine,  and  I  did  my  best  to  give 
such  an  account  of  Buffalo  as  he  would  have 
written  in  English  if  he  had  been  there  in  my 
place:  As  soon  as  I  had  completed  the  his- 
tory of  my  observations,  which  was  more  con- 
siderable than  the  observations  themselves,  I 
pushed  on  to  Niagara  Falls. 


II. 

One  always  experiences  a  vivid  emotion 
from  the  sight  of  the  Rapids,  no  matter  how 
often  one  sees  them,  but  I  am  safe  in  saying 
that  one  sees  them  for  the  first  time  but  once. 
After  that  one  has  the  feeling  of  a  habitut 
towards  them,  a  sort  of  friendly  and  familiar 
239 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

appreciation  of  their  terrific  beauty,  but  cer- 
tainly not  the  thrill  of  the  pristine  awe.  It  is 
even  hard  to  recall  that :  the  picture  remains, 
but  not  the  sense  of  their  mighty  march,  or  of 
their  gigantic  leaps  and  lunges,  when  they 
break  ranks,  and  their  procession  becomes  a 
mere  onward  .tumult  without  form  or  order. 
I  had  schooled  myself  for  great  impressions, 
and  I  did  not  mean  to  lose  one  of  them ;  they 
were  all  going  into  that  correspondence  which 
I  was  so  proud  to  be  writing,  and  finally,  I 
hoped,  they  were  going  into  literature :  poems, 
sketches,  studies,  and  I  do  not  know  what  all. 
But  I  had  not  counted  upon  the  Rapids  taking 
me  by  the  throat,  as  it  were,  and  making  my 
heart  stop.  I  still  think  that  above  and  below 
the  Falls,  the  Rapids  are  the  most  striking 
features  of  the  spectacle.  At  least  you  may 
say  something  about  them,  compare  them  to 
something;  when  you  come  to  the  Cataract  it- 
self, you  can  say  nothing;  it  is  incomparable. 
My  sense  of  it  first,  and  my  sense  of  it  last,  was 
not  a  sense  of  the  stupendous,  but  a  sense  of 
beauty,  of  serenity,  of  repose.  I  have  always 
had  to  take  myself  in  hand,  to  shake  myself  up, 
to  look  twice,  and  recur  to  what  I  have  heard 
240 


NIAGARA,  FIRST  AND  LAST. 

and  read  of  other  people's  impressions,  before 
I  am  overpowered  by  it.  Otherwise  I  am 
simply  charmed. 

I  hurried  out  to  look  at  it,  and  I  spent  the 
afternoon  in  taking  a  careful  account  of  my 
impressions,  and  trying  to  fit  phrases  to  my 
emotions  for  that  blessed  correspondence. 
Then  I  went  back  to  my  room  and  began  to 
put  them  down  on  paper  while  they  were  still 
warm. 

That  pleasant  room  in  the  hotel  is  very  vivid 
in  my  memory  yet.  It  had  a  green  lattice- 
door  opening  into  the  corridor,  and  when  I 
left  the  inner  door  ajar,  a  delicious  current  of 
summer  breeze  and  afternoon  sunshine  drew 
through  it  from  the  window  looking  out  on  a 
sweep  of  those  Rapids.  It  was  what  they  call 
a  single  room,  but  it  seemed  very  spacious  at 
that  time,  and  it  had  a  little  table  in  it,  where  I 
wrote  my  letters  to  the  Cincinnati  paper.  I 
lived  two  weeks  in  that  room,  and  I  made  a 
vast  deal  of  copy,  including  some  poems,  I  be- 
lieve, which  never  got  printed,  any  more  than 
most  of  my  letters,  though  I  did  not  confine 
the  test  of  their  merit  to  one  editor  alone. 

16  241 


THE  NIAGARA.  BOOK. 

III. 

Apart  from  these  literary  enterprises  of 
mine  there  was  not  a  great  deal  to  occupy  me 
in  the  hotel.  I  suppose  there  are  moments 
when  the  hotels  at  Niagara  are  full,  but  I  never 
happened  there  at  those  moments,  and  my 
hotel  at  the  time  of  the  first  visit  was  far 
from  crowded,  though  it  was  in  the  days  before 
the  war  when  Southerners  were  reputed  to 
visit  the  Falls  in  great  numbers.  We  dined 
at  midday  to  the  music  of  a  brass  band,  which 
must  have  been  more  than  usually  brazen,  to 
have  affected  my  nerves  the  way  it  did,  for 
at  twenty-three  the  nerves  are  not  sensitive. 
Very  likely  there  were  a  variety  of  brides  and 
grooms  there,  but  I  did  not  know  them  from 
the  rest:  so  little  is  one  condition  of  life  able 
to  distinguish  another.  There  was  a  period 
when  these  young  couples  were  visible  to  me, 
afterwards;  and  then,  when  I  was  very  much 
older,  they  vanished  again,  and  were  no  more 
to  be  found  by  the  eye  of  earlier  age  than  by 
the  eye  of  earlier  youth.  I  believe  I  saw  num- 
bers of  pretty  young  girls,  who  then  appeared 
to  me  stately  and  mature  women,  of  great 
splendor  and  beauty,  and  of  varying  measures 
242 


NIAGARA,  FIRST  AND  LAST. 

of  haughty  inapproachability.  I  made  the  ac- 
quaintance of  no  one  in  the  hotel,  but  by  a 
sort  of  affinition,  which  I  should  now  be  at  a 
loss  to  account  for,  I  fell  in  with  two  artists 
who  were  painting  the  Falls  and  the  Rapids, 
and  the  scenery  generally,  and  I  used  to  go 
about  with  them,  and  watch  them  at  their 
work.  They  were  brothers,  and  very  friendly 
fellows,  not  much  older  than  I,  and  because  I 
liked  them,  and  was  reaching  out  in  every  di- 
rection for  the  materials  of  greater  and  greater 
consciousness,  I  tried  to  see  Niagara  as  ac- 
tively and  pervasively  iridescent  as  they  did. 
They  invited  me  to  criticise  their  pictures  in 
the  presence  of  the  facts,  and  I  did  once  inti- 
mate that  I  failed  to  find  all  those  rainbows,  of 
different  sizes  and  shapes  which  they  had  rep- 
resented on  the  surface  of  the  water  every- 
where. Then  they  pointed  the  rainbows  out 
with  their  forefingers  and  asked,  Didn't  I  see 
them  there,  and  there,  and  there?  I  looked 
very  hard,  and  as  I  was  not  going  to  be  out- 
done in  the  perception  of  beauty,  I  said  that 
I  did  see  them,  and  I  tried  to  believe  that  I  saw 
them,  but,  Heaven  knows,  I  never  did.  I  hope 
this  fraud  will  not  be  finally  accounted  against 
243 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

me.  Those  were  charming  fellows,  and  other 
pictures  of  theirs  I  have  found  so  faithful  that  I 
am  still  a  little  shaken  about  the  rainbows. 
My  artists  were  from  Ohio,  and  though  I  was 
too  ignorant  then  to  affirm  that  Ohio  art  was 
the  best  art  in  the  world,  just  as  Ohio  money 
was  the  best,  still  I  was  very  proud  of  it,  and  I 
suppose  I  renowned  those  invisible  irides- 
cences in  my  letter  to  the  Cincinnati  paper. 

We  walked  all  about  the  Falls,  and  over 
Goat  Island,  and  to  and  from  the  Whirlpool, 
and  it  was  a  great  advantage  to  me  to  be  in  the 
artists'  company,  for  they  knew  all  the  loveli- 
est places,  and  could  show  me  the  best  points 
of  view.  I  drove  nowhere,  because  I  had  a 
fear,  bred  of  much  newspaper  rumor  and 
humor,  that  my  accumulated  treasures  would 
not  hold  out  against  the  rapacity  of  a  single 
Niagara  hackman.  A  dollar  was  a  dollar  in 
those  days,  especially  if  it  were  a  dollar  of  Ohio 
money,  or  at  least  it  was  so  till  you  got  to  Bos- 
ton; and  I  was  not  willing  to  waste  any  of  mine 
in  carriage  fares.  But  to  be  honest  about 
those  poor  fellows,  I  always  found  the  Niagara 
hackmen,  when  I  visited  their  domain  in  after 
years,  not  only  civil  but  reasonable,  and  I  have 
244 


Photograph  by  Curtis. 


LUNA   ISLAND    IN    WINTER. 


NIAGARA,   FIRST  AND  LAST. 

never  regretted  the  money  I  spent  upon  them ; 
it  was  no  longer  Ohio  money,  to  be  sure. 

Some  places  I  could  not  walk  to  on  that 
first  visit,  and  as  there  was  no  suspension 
bridge  then  near  the  Falls,  I  took  a  boat  when 
I  wished  to  cross  to  the  Canada  side,  and  a  man 
rowed  me  over  the  eddies  of  the  river  where 
they  reeled  away  from  the  plunge  of  the  Cata- 
ract. I  do  not  think  I  crossed  more  than  once, 
or  had  any  wish  to  do  so,  after  I  had  visited 
the  battlefield  of  Lundy's  Lane,  where  a  vet- 
eran of  the  fight,  so  well  preserved  in  alcohol 
that  I  should  not  be  surprised  if  he  were  there 
yet,  gave  me  an  account  of  it  from  the  top  of 
a  tower  in  which  he  seemed  to  be  fortified. 
That  poor  little  carnage  has  shrunken  into  so 
small  a  horror  since  the  battles  of  the  great 
war,  then  impending,  that  I  feel  somewhat  like 
excusing  the  mention  of  it  now;  but  when  I 
visited  the  scene  in  1860, 1  was  aware  of  several 
emotions  which,  if  not  of  prime  importance  on 
the  spot,  were  very  capable  of  being  worked 
up  into  something  worth  while  in  my  letter  to 
the  Cincinnati  paper.  I  tried  to  give  them 
a  Heinesque  cast,  and  I  made  a  good  deal  of 
the  tipsy  veteran.  In  the  course  of  a  literary 
245 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

life  one  is  obliged  to  practise  these  economies, 
and  I  advise  the  beginner  in  our  art  against 
throwing  away  anything  whatever.  But  what 
is  the  need  of  advising  him?  He  would  not 
be  able  to  do  so  if  he  wished.  He  belongs  to 
what  he  has  seen,  as  much  as  it  belongs  to  him, 
and  he  owes  it  a  debt  of  expression  which  will 
weigh  upon  him  till  he  complies  with  its  just 
demand.  The  trouble  is  with  what  he  has  not 
seen,  and  decidedly  he  had  better  not  be  ad- 
vised against  throwing  that  away.  The  more 
of  that  he  throws  away  the  better;  and  the 
reader  can  have  very  little  notion  how  much 
he  is  profiting  by  my  profusion  in  this  respect. 

IV. 

Really,  however,  I  did  see  a  great  many 
things  at  Niagara  on  that  first  visit,  and  I  am 
sorry  to  say  that  I  saw  them  chiefly  on  the 
Canada  side.  My  patriotism  has  always  felt 
the  hurt4 of  the  fact  that  our  great  national 
cataract  is  best  viewed  from  a  foreign  shore. 
There  can  be  no  denying,  at  least  in  a  confi- 
dence like  the  present,  that  the  Canadian  Fall, 
if  not  more  majestic,  is  certainly  more  massive, 
246 


NIAGARA,   FIRST  AND   LAST. 

than  the  American.  I  used  to  watch  its 
mighty  wall  of  waters  with  a  jealousy  almost 
as  green  as  themselves,  and  then  try  to  believe 
that  the  knotted  tumble  of  our  Fall  was  finer. 
I  could  only  make  out  that  it  had  more  appar- 
ent movement.  But  at  times,  and  if  one  looked 
steadily  at  any  part  of  the  Cataract,  the  de- 
scending floods  seemed  to  hang  in  arrest  above 
the  gulfs  below.  Those  liquid  steeps,  those 
precipices  of  molten  emerald,  all  broken  and 
fissured  with  opal  and  crystal,  seemed  like 
heights  of  sure  and  firmset  earth,  and  the  mists 
that  climbed  them  half-way  were  as  still  to  the 
eye  in  their  subtler  sort.  This  effect  of  im- 
mobility is  what  gives  its  supreme  beauty  to 
Niagara,  its  repose.  If  there  is  agony  there, 
it  is  the  agony  of  Niobe,  of  the  Laocoon.  It 
moves  the  beholder,  but  itself  it  does  not  move. 
I  spent  a  great  deal  of  time  trying  to  say 
this  or  something  like  it,  which  now  and  al- 
ways seemed  to  me  true  of  Niagara,  though  I 
do  not  insist  that  it  shall  seem  so  to  others.  I 
could  not  see  those  iridescences  that  every- 
where illumined  the  waters  to  my  artist 
friends,  and  very  likely  the  reader,  if  he  is  a 
person  of  feeble  fancy,  small  sympathy,  and 
247 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

indifferent  morals,  will  find  nothing  of  this 
Repose  that  I  speak  of  in  Niagara.  I  imagine 
him  taking  my  page  out  into  the  presence  of 
the  fact,  and  demanding,  Now  where  is  the 
Repose  ? 

Well,  all  that  I  can  say  is  that  it  has  always 
been  there  on  the  occasion  of  my  visits.  On 
the  occasion  of  my  first  visit  there  was  even  a 
shelf  of  the  Table  Rock  still  there,  and  I  went 
out  and  stood  upon  it,  for  the  sake  of  saying 
that  I  had  done  so  in  my  letter  to  the  Cincin- 
nati paper,  though  I  might  very  well  have  said 
it  without  having  done  so,  and  I  am  almost 
sorry  that  I  did  not,  when  I  remember  how 
few  of  those  letters  that  paper  printed.  There 
was  no  great  pleasure  in  the  experience.  You 
were  supposed  to  get  a  particularly  fine  view 
of  the  Horse  Shoe  Falls,  but  I  got  no  view  at 
all,  on  account  of  a  whim  of  the  mist.  Weeks 
earlier  a  large  piece  of  the  rock  had  fallen  just 
a  few  moments  after  a  carriage  full  of  people 
had  driven  off  it,  and  I  did  not  know  but  an- 
other piece  might  fall  just  a  few  moments  be- 
fore I  walked  off  it.  I  was  not  in  a  carriage, 
and  my  portion  of  Table  Rock  did  not  fall  till 
some  three  months  later;  that  was  quite  soon 
248 


NIAGARA,   FIRST  AND  LAST. 

enough  for  me;  I  should  have  preferred  three 
years. 

I  do  not  know  whether  it  was  my  satisfac- 
tion in  this  hair-breadth  escape  or  not,  but  I 
had  sufficient  spirits  immediately  after  to  join 
a  group  of  people  near  by  who  were  taking 
peeps  over  a  precipice  at  something  below. 
I  did  not  know  what  it  was,  but  I  thought  it 
might  be  something  I  could  work  up  in  my 
letters  to  that  Cincinnati  paper,  and  I  waited 
my  turn  among  those  who  were  lying  succes- 
sively on  their  stomachs  and  craning  their 
necks  over  the  edge;  and  then  I  saw  that  it  was 
a  man  who  was  lying  face  upwards  on  the 
rocks  below,  and  had  perhaps  been  lying  there 
some  time.  He  was  a  very  green  and  yellow 
melancholy  of  a  man,  as  to  his  face,  and  in  his 
workman's  blue  overalls  he  had  a  trick  of 
swimming  upwards  to  the  eye  of  the  aesthetic 
spectator,  so  that  one  had  to  push  back  with  a 
hard  clutch  on  the  turf  to  keep  from  plunging 
over  to  meet  him.  I  made  a  note  of  this  mor- 
bid impulse  for  primary  use  in  my  letters  to 
that  Cincinnati  paper,  and  secondary  use  in  a 
poem,  or  sketch,  or  tale;  and  then  I  crawled 

back  and  went  away,  and  was  faint  in  secret 
249 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

for  a  while.  It  was  strange  how  fully  sufficing 
one  little  glimpse  of  that  poor  man  was.  No 
one  knew  who  he  was  or  how  he  had  fallen 
over  there,  but  after  the  first  glance  at  him  (I 
believe  I  did  not  give  a  second)  I  felt  that  we 
did  not  part  strangers.  Now  I  meet  people  at 
dinner  and  pass  whole  evenings  with  them, 
and  cannot  remember  their  faces  so  as  to  place 
them  the  next  week.  But  I  think  I  could 
have  placed  that  poor  man  years  afterwards. 
To  be  sure  the  circumstances  are  different,  and 
I  am  no  longer  twenty-three. 

V. 

Do  they  still,  I  wonder,  take  people  to  see  a 
place  not  far  above  the  Canadian  Fall,  where  a 
vein  of  natural  gas  vents  itself  amid  the  trouble 
of  the  waters,  and  the  custodian  sets  fire  to  it 
with  a  piece  of  lighted  newspaper?  They 
used  to  do  that,  if  you  paid  them  a  quarter,  in 
a  little  pavilion  built  over  the  place  to  shut  out 
the  unpaying  public.  By  comparison  with  the 
great  gas  wells  which  I  saw  in  combustion 
long  after  at  Findlay,  this  was  a  very  feeble 
rush  light  conflagration  indeed,  but  it  had  the 
250 


NIAGARA,   FIRST  AND   LAST. 

merit  of  being  much  more  mysterious.  I,  for 
instance,  did  not  know  it  was  natural  gas,  or 
what  it  was,  and  the  custodian  sagely  would 
not  say;  the  mystery  was  probably  part  of  his 
stock  in  trade.  There  were  many  mysteries, 
maintained  at  a  profit,  about  Niagara  then, 
and  not  the  least  of  them  was  Terrapin  Tower, 
which  stood  at  the  brink  of  the  American  Fall, 
and  was  reached  by  a  series  of  stepping  stones 
and  bridges  amidst  the  rapids.  The  mystery 
of  this  was  that  any  human  being  should  wish 
to  go  up  it,  at  the  risk  of  his  life,  but  every- 
body did.  I  myself  found  a  bridal  couple  (of 
the  third  espousals)  in  it  when  I  ventured  a 
vast  deal  of  potential  literature  in  its  frail  keep- 
ing; no  terrapin,  I  fancy,  was  ever  so  rash  as 
to  ascend  it,  from  the  day  it  was  built  to  the 
day  it  was  taken  away.  What  is  so  amusing 
now  to  think  of,  though  not  so  amusing  then, 
is  that  all  the  while  I  was  clambering  about 
those  heights  and  brinks,  I  was  suffering  from 
an  inveterate  vertigo,  which  made  plain 
ground  rather  difficult  for  me  at  times.  At 
odd  moments  it  became  necessary  for  me  to 
lay  hold  of  something  and  stay  the  reeling 

world;  and  the  recurrence  of  these  exigencies 
251 


THE  NIAGARA.  BOOK. 

finally  decided  me  against  venturing  into  the 
Cave  of  the  Winds.  Upon  the  whole  I  am 
glad  I  did  not  penetrate  it,  for  now  I  can  think 
it  what  I  like,  and  if  I  had  seen  it  I  probably 
could  not  do  that.  I  compromised  by  de- 
scending the  Biddle  Stairs,  which  had  a  rail  to 
hold  on  by,  and  which,  I  have  no  doubt, 
amount  to  much  the  same  thing  as  the  Cave 
of  the  Winds.  At  any  rate,  when  I  got  to  the 
bottom  of  them,  I  wondered  why  in  the  world 
I  had  come  down. 

I  do  not  know  whether  under  the  present 
socialistic  regime,  or  state  control,  of  the  Falls, 
there  are  so  many  marvels  shown  as  under  the 
old  system  of  private  enterprise.  But  I  am 
sure  that  their  number  could  have  been  greatly 
reduced,  with  advantage  to  the  visitor.  If  you 
find  a  marvel  advertised,  and  you  learn  that 
you  cannot  see  it  without  paying  a  quarter, 
every  coin  upon  your  person  begins  to  burn  in 
an  intense  sympathy  with  your  curiosity,  and 
you  cannot  be  content  till  you  have  seen  that 
marvel.  This  was  the  principle  of  human  na- 
ture upon  which  private  capital  had  counted, 
and  it  did  not  matter  that  the  Falls  themselves 

were  enough  to  glut  the  utmost  greed  of  won- 
252 


NIAGARA,   FIRST  AND   LAST. 

der.  Their  prodigious  character  was  eked 
out  by  every  factitious  device  to  which  the 
penalty  of  twenty-five  cents  could  be  attached. 
I  remember  that  at  the  entrance  of  Prospect 
Park,  if  not  within  the  sacred  grove,  a  hardy 
adventurer  had  pitched  his  tent  and  announced 
the  presence  of  a  five-legged  calf  within  its 
canvas  walls,  in  active  competition  with  the 
great  Cataract.  I  paid  my  quarter  (my  Ohio 
money  was  all  paper,  or  I  might  have  thought 
twice  about  it)  in  order  to  make  sure  that  this 
calf  was  in  no  wise  comparable  to  Niagara.  I 
do  not  say  that  the  picture  of  the  calf  on  the 
outside  of  the  tent  was  not  as  good  as  some 
pictures  of  Niagara  that  I  have  seen.  It  was 
at  least  as  much  like. 

I  hope  that  all  this  is  not  decrying  the  attrac- 
tions of  any  worthy  adjunct  of  the  Cataract, 
such  as  the  Whirlpool.  There  is  of  course 
no  other  such,  and  I  was  proud  and  glad  to 
believe  that  the  Whirlpool  was  chiefly  on  the 
American  side,  or  the  first  part  of  it,  or  was 
at  first  nearly  if  not  solely  accessible  from  our 
territory ;  and  I  did  not  find  out  till  long  after 
that  I  was  wrong.  The  Whirlpool,  seen  from 
the  heights  around  it,  has  that  effect  of  sculp- 
253 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

turesque  repose  which  I  have  always  found  the 
finest  thing  in  the  Cataract  itself.  Like  that  it 
is  impassioned,  while  the  Rapids  are  passion- 
ate. From  the  top  the  circling  lines  of  the 
Whirlpool  seemed  graven  in  a  level  of  chal- 
cedony; the  illusion  of  arrest  was  so  perfect 
that  I  was  almost  sorry  ever  to  have  lost  it, 
though  I  do  not  know  what  I  could  have  done 
with  it  if  I  had  kept  it.  I  duly  studied  my 
phrases  about  it  for  my  letters  to  that  Cincin- 
nati paper,  and  it  is  probably  from  some  of 
them,  printed  or  unprinted,  that  I  speak  now. 
These  things  linger  long  in  the  mind ;  and  it  is 
not  always  from  frugality  that  the  observer  of 
the  picturesque  uses  the  same  terms  again  and 
again.  Happily,  I  am  not  obliged  to  describe 
the  Whirlpool  to  the  reader,  as  I  was  then,  and 
I  have  no  impression  to  impart  except  this 
sense  of  its  worthy  unity  with  the  Cataract  in 
what  I  may  call  its  highest  aesthetic  quality, 
its  repose. 

VI. 

If  the  reader  does  not  believe  in  this,  he  may 
go  and  look;  but  there  is  one  fact  of  this  first 
visit  of  mine  to  Niagara  which  he  must  help- 
254 


NIAGARA,   FIRST  AND   LAST. 

lessly  take  my  word  for.  That  fact  is  Blondin, 
who  is  closely  allied  in  my  mind  with  the 
Whirlpool,  because  I  saw  him  cross  the  river 
above  the  frantic  Rapids  not  far  from  it.  If 
this  association  is  too  mechanical,  too  ma- 
terial, then  I  will  go  farther,  and  say  that  when 
Blondin  had  got  such  a  distance  into  the  dan- 
ger, he,  too,  became  an  illusion  of  Repose;  and 
I  defy  the  most  sceptical  reader,  who  was  not 
then  present,  to  gainsay  me. 

Why  those  rapids  just  below  the  large  Sus- 
pension Bridge  were  chosen  to  stretch  Blon- 
din's  cable  over,  I  do  not  know,  unless  it  was 
because  the  river  narrows  to  a  gorge  there, 
and  because  those  rapids  are  more  horrid,  in 
the  eighteenth-century  sense,  than  any  other 
feature  of  Niagara.  They  have  been  a  great 
deal  exploited  since  Blondin's  time  by  adven- 
turers who  have  attempted  to  swim  them,  and 
to  navigate  them  in  barrels  and  buoys  and 
India-rubber  balls,  or  if  not  quite  India-rubber 
balls,  I  do  not  know  why.  But  at  that  time  no 
craft  but  the  Maid  of  the  Mist,  the  little  steam- 
boat which  used  to  run  up  to  the  foot  of  the 
cataract,  had  ever  dared  them.  She,  indeed, 
flying  from  the  perennial  pun  involved  in  her 
255 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

name,  not  to  mention  the  sheriff's  officer  who 
had  an  attachment  for  her,  weathered  the 
rapids  and  passed  in  and  out  of  the  Whirlpool, 
and  escaped  into  the  quiet  of  Canadian  waters, 
with  the  pilot  and  her  engineer  on  board. 
Afterwards  I  saw  her  at  Quebec,  where  she  had 
changed  her  name,  as  other  American  refugees 
in  Canada  have  done,  and  had  now  become  the 
Maid  of  Orleans,  in  recognition  of  her  peace- 
ful employ  of  carrying  people  to  and  from  the 
Isle  of  Orleans.  But  her  adventurous  voy- 
age was  still  fresh  on  the  lips  of  guides  and 
hackmen  when  I  was  first  at  Niagara,  and  I 
looked  at  the  Rapids  and  the  Whirlpool  with 
an  interest  peculiarly  fearful  because  of  it. 

As  usual,  I  walked  to  the  scene  of  the  ex- 
ploit I  was  about  to  witness,  but  there  were  a 
good  many  people  walking,  and  they  debated 
on  the  way  whether  Blondin  would  cross  that 
day  or  not.  It  had  been  raining  over  night, 
and  some  said  his  cable  was  not  in  condition; 
others,  that  the  guys  which  stayed  it  on  either 
side  were  too  slack,  or  too  taut  from  the  wet. 
Nevertheless,  we  found  a  great  crowd  on  the 
Canada  shore,  which  seemed  to  command  the 
best  view  of  Blondin  as  well  as  of  Niagara,  and 
256 


NIAGARA,  FIRST  AND  LAST. 

the  American  shore  was  dense  with  specta- 
tors, too.  As  the  hour  drew  near  for  Blondin 
to  do  his  feat,  we  were  lost  in  greater  and 
greater  doubt  whether  he  would  do  it  or  not, 
and  perhaps  if  a  vote  had  been  taken  the  scep- 
tics would  have  carried  the  day,  when  he  sud- 
denly danced  out  upon  the  cable  before  our 
unbelieving  eyes. 

The  dizzy  path  was  of  the  bigness  of  a  ship's 
cable,  at  the  shore,  but  it  seemed  to  dwindle 
to  a  thread  where  it  sank  over  the  centre  of 
the  gulf,  down  toward  those  tusked  and  froth- 
ing breakers.  They  seemed  to  jump  at  it,  like 
a  pack  of  maddened  wolves,  and  to  pull  one 
another  back,  and  then  to  tumble  and  flow 
away,  forever  different,  forever  the  same.  The 
strong  guys  starting  from  the  rocks  of  the 
precipice  and  the  level  of  the  rapids  could  stay 
it,  after  all,  only  a  little  part  of  its  length,  and 
beneath  them  and  up  through  them,  the  black 
cedars  thrust  their  speary  tops,  with  that  slant 
toward  the  middle  of  the  gorge,  which  must 
be  from  the  pull  of  the  strong  draft  between 
its  walls.  They  made  a  fine  contrast  of  color 
with  the  floods  breaking  snowy  white  from 
their  bulks  of  glassy  green;  and  for  the  rest 
17  257 


THE   NIAGARA   BOOK. 

there  was  the  perfect  blue  of  the  summer 
heaven  over  all. 

There  was  no  testing  of  the  guys,  whether 
they  were  slack  or  taut,  or  of  the  cable, 
whether  it  was  in  condition,  and  in  fact  no  one 
thought  of  either,  such  was  the  surprise  of  see- 
ing that  pink  figure  of  a  man  spring  out  into 
space  from  some  source  which  I,  at  least,  had 
not  observed.  He  was  in  the  conventional 
silk  fleshings  of  the  rope-dancer,  and  he  car- 
ried a  very  long  balancing  pole.  At  first  there 
was  some  reality  in  the  apparition.  One  felt 
he  was  a  fellow-man  about  to  dare  death  for 
our  amusement,  but  as  he  began  to  run  down 
the  slope  of  the  cable  toward  the  centre,  one 
rapidly  lost  this  sense,  and  beheld  him  as  a 
mere  feature  of  the  general  prospect.  Per- 
haps he  was  aware  of  this  effect  and  chose  to 
startle  us  back  to  our  consciousness  of  his  hu- 
manity, or  perhaps  it  was  a  wonted  trick,  in- 
tended to  heighten  the  interest  of  the  specta- 
cle. At  any  rate,  in  the  very  middle  of  the 
river,  he  seemed  suddenly  to  falter,  and  he 
swayed  from  side  to  side  as  if  he  were  going 
to  fall.  A  sort  of  groan  went  through  the 
crowd,  and  several  women  fainted.  Then 
258 


NIAGARA,   FIRST  AND  LAST. 

Blondin  made  believe  to  recover  himself,  and 
began  to  climb  the  slope  of  his  cable  to  the 
further  shore.  I  do  not  know  just  how  far 
this  was,  but  I  think  it  may  have  been  well  on 
to  half  a  mile;  as  to  the  height  above  the  rapids 
where  the  cable  hung  it  looked  like  a  hundred 
and  fifty  feet.  I  made  some  vague  notes  of 
these  matters  after  Blondin  vanished  into  the 
crowd  beyond,  but  there  was  not  much  time 
for  conjecture.  He  came  into  sight  again  al- 
most at  once,  a  little  puppet,  running  down 
the  farther  slope  of  the  cable,  and  growing  a 
little  and  a  little  larger  as  he  drew  near.  Pres- 
ently one  noticed  that  he  had  left  his  balancing 
pole  behind,  and  was  tripping  forward  with 
outstretched  arms. 

I  stood  where  I  could  see  him  well,  on  his 
return,  and  I  looked  at  him  with  something 
of  the  interest  one  might  feel  in  a  man  who 
had  come  back  from  the  dead  and  had  put  on 
his  earthly  personality  again.  I  do  not  re- 
member his  face,  which  was  no  doubt  as  good 
or  as  bad  a  face  as  any  mountebank's  or  mon- 
arch's, but  his  feet  seemed  to  me  the  very  most 
intelligent  feet  in  the  world,  pliable,  sinuous, 
clinging,  educated  in  every  fibre,  and  full  of 
259 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

spiritual  sentience.  They  had  the  air  of  know- 
ing that  the  whole  man  was  trusted  to  them, 
and,  such  as  he  was,  that  he  was  in  their  power 
and  keeping  along.  They  rose  and  fell  upon 
the  cable  with  an  exquisite  accuracy,  and  a 
delicate  confidence  which  had  nothing  fool- 
hardy in  it.  Blondin's  head  might  take  risks, 
but  it  was  clear  that  Blondin's  feet  took  none; 
whatever  they  did  they  did  wittingly,  and  with 
a  full  forecast  of  the  chances  and  consequences. 
They  were  imaginably  such  feet  as  Isaac  Tay- 
lor conjectures  we  may  have  in  another  life, 
where  the  intellect  shall  not  be  seated  in  the 
brain  alone,  but  shall  be  issued  to  every  part  of 
the  body,  and  present  in  every  joint  and  limb. 
They  were  an  immense  consolation  to  me, 
those  feet,  and  when  Blondin  went  tripping 
gayly  out  upon  them  over  his  rope  again,  I 
breathed  much  more  freely  than  I  had  before; 
they  had,  as  it  were,  personally  reassured  me, 
and  given  me  their  honor  that  nothing  should 
happen  to  him;  those  feet  and  I  had  a  sort  of 
common  understanding  about  him,  and  I  do 
not  think  they  respected  him  any  more  than  I 
did  for  risking  his  life  in  that  manner.  He 
went  down  the  rope  and  up  the  rope,  dwin- 
260 


NIAGARA,   FIRST  AND   LAST. 

dling  from  a  pink  man  to  a  pink  puppet  as  be- 
fore, and  going  to  nothing  in  the  crowd.  Then 
he  came  to  something  once  more,  and  began 
to  grow  from  a  puppet  into  -a  man  again,  but 
with  something  odd  about  him.  He  had  re- 
sumed his  balancing  pole,  and  he  had  some- 
thing strange  on  his  feet,  those  wise  feet,  and, 
as  he  drew  nearer,  we  could  see  that  he  had 
wooden  buckets  on  them,  of  about  the  bigness 
of  butter  firkins;  I  tell  it,  not  expecting  much 
to  be  believed,  for  I  did  not  believe  it  when  I 
saw  it.  But  till  he  arrived,  I  could  say  to 
myself  that  there  were  no  bottoms  in  those 
buckets,  and  that  his  sagacious  feet,  though 
somewhat  impeded,  had  still  no  doubt  a  good 
chance  to  save  him,  if  he  lost  his  head,  and 
would  be  equal  to  any  common  emergency. 
That  was  the  opinion  of  everyone  about  me, 
and  though  I  knew  how  vexed  with  him  the 
feet  must  be,  I  did  not  wholly  lose  patience 
till  I  was  told  by  one  who  saw  the  buckets 
after  Blondin  stepped  out  of  them,  that  they 
had  wooden  bottoms  like  any  other  butter 
firkins.  Then  I  was  glad  that  I  did  not  see  his 
feet  again,  for  I  could  imagine  the  look  of  cold 
disgust,  the  look  of  haughty  injury  they  must 
261 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

wear  at  having  been  made  privy  to  such  a 
mere  brutal  audacity. 

The  man  himself  looked  cool  and  fresh 
enough,  but  I,  who  was  not  used  to  such  vio- 
lent fatigues  as  he  must  have  undergone  in 
these  three  transits,  was  bathed  in  a  cold  per- 
spiration, and  so  weak  and  worn  with  making 
them  in  sympathy  that  I  could  scarcely  walk 
away. 

Long  afterwards  I  was  telling  about  this 
experience  of  mine — it  was  really  more  mine 
than  Blondin's — in  the  neat  shop  of  a  Venetian 
pharmacist,  to  a  select  circle  of  the  physicians 
who  wait  in  such  places  in  Venice  for  the  call 
of  their  patients.  One  of  these  civilized  men, 
for  all  comment,  asked :  "  Where  was  the 
government?  "  and  I  answered  in  my  barbar- 
ous pride  of  our  individualism,  "  The  govern- 
ment had  nothing  to  do  with  it.  In  America 
the  government  has  nothing  to  do  with  such 
things." 

But  now  I  think  that  this  Venetian  was 
right,  and  that  such  a  show  as  I  have  tried  to 
describe  ought  no  more  to  have  been  per- 
mitted than  the  fight  of  a  man  with  a  wild 
beast.  It  was  an  offence  to  morality,  and  it 
262 


NIAGARA,   FIRST  AND   LAST. 

thinned  the  frail  barrier  which  the  aspiration 
of  centuries  has  slowly  erected  between  hu- 
manity and  savagery.  But  for  the  time  being 
I  made  no  such  reflections.  I  got  back  to  my 
hotel  and  hastened  to  send  off  a  whole  letter 
about  Blondin  to  that  Cincinnati  paper;  and 
to  this  day  I  do  not  know  whether  they  ever 
printed  it  or  not.  I  try  to  make  fun  of  it  now, 
but  it  was  not  funny  then.  All  the  way  round 
on  that  tour,  my  view  of  the  wonders  of  nature 
and  the  monuments  of  man  was  obscured  by 
my  anxiety  concerning  the  letters  I  wrote  to 
that  Cincinnati  paper;  and  at  all  the  hotels 
where  I  stopped  I  hurried  to  examine  the  files 
of  the  reading-room  and  see  whether  it  had 
kept  faith  with  me  or  not.  Across  many  years, 
across  graves  not  a  few,  I  can  reach  and  recall 
the  hurt  vanity,  the  just  resentment,  and  the 
baffled  hope  that  were  bound  up  in  that  early 
experience  of  editorial  frailty. 

VII. 

My  first  visit  to  Niagara  was  paid  in  the 
midsummer  of  the  year,  and  the  midsummer 

of  my  life.     All  nature  was  rich  and  beautifully 
263 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

alive  amid  scenes  which  I  think  are  of  her 
noblest.  There  were  places  where  the  fresh 
scent  of  the  waters  was  mixed  with  the  fra- 
grance of  wild  flowers;  the  birds  which  sang 
inaudibly  in  the  immediate  roar  of  the  Cataract 
made  themselves  sweetly  heard  in  the  heart  of 
Goat  Island.  Everywhere  there  were  pretty 
young  girls,  in  the  hats  which  they  were  then 
beginning  to  wear  after  a  long  regime  of  bon- 
nets, and  their  hats  had  black  plumes  in  them 
that  drooped  down  as  near  to  the  cheeks  of  the 
pretty  young  girls  as  they  could  get. 

I  can  scarcely  help  heaving  a  sigh  for  the 
wrinkles  in  those  cheeks  which  the  plumes,  if 
they  still  drooped  instead  of  sticking  militantly 
up  on  the  front  and  back  of  the  hats,  would 
not  be  so  eager  to  caress  now;  but  I  will  not 
insist  a  great  deal  upon  a  sort  of  sigh  which 
has  been  often  known  in  print  already.  I 
think  it  much  more  profitable  to  note  that  all 
the  entourage  of  Niagara  was  then  private 
property,  and  was  put  to  those  money-making 
uses  at  the  expense  of  the  public  which  form 
one  of  the  holiest  attributes  of  that  sacred 
thing.  I  never  greatly  objected  to  the  paper- 
mills  on  Goat  Island;  they  were  impertinent 
264 


NIAGARA,   FIRST  AND   LAST. 

to  the  scenery,  of  course,  but  they  were  pic- 
turesque, with  their  low-lying,  weather-worn 
masses  in  the  shelter  of  the  forest  trees,  beside 
the  brawling  waters.  But  nearly  every  other 
assertion  of  private  rights  in  the  landscape  was 
an  outrage  to  it.  I  will  not  even  try  to  recall 
the  stupid  and  squalid  contrivances  which  de- 
faced it  at  every  point,  and  extorted  a  coin 
from  the  insulted  traveller  at  every  turn.  They 
are  all  gone  now,  and  in  the  keeping  of  the 
State  the  whole  redeemed  and  disenthralled 
vicinity  of  Niagara  is  an  object  lesson  in  what 
public  ownership,  whenever  it  comes,  does  for 
beauty. 

I  had  the  eagerness  of  a  true  believer  to  see 
this  result,  and  even  before  I  went  to  look  at 
the  cataract  on  my  last  visit  a  winter  ago,  I 
drove  about  and  made  sure  from  the  liberated 
landscape  that  the  people  were  in  possession 
of  their  own.  It  was  wonderful,  even  in  mid- 
winter, the  difference  in  dignity  and  prosperity 
that  not  so  much  appeared  as  seemed  to  re- 
appear, and  to  find  in  the  beholder's  conscious- 
ness a  sense  of  what  that  divine  prospect  must 
have  been  when  the  eye  of  the  white  man  first 
gazed  upon  it.  The  landscape  had  got  back 
265 


THE   NIAGARA   BOOK. 

something  of  its  youth,  and  in  my  joy  in  it  I 
got  back  something  of  mine. 

I  do  not  say  that  I  got  much.  At  fifty,  one 
is  at  least  not  twice  as  young  as  at  twenty-five. 
But  I  was  very  fairly  young  again  when  I  came 
to  Niagara  in  the  midwinter  of  my  midwinter 
year,  and  I  was  certainly  as  impatient  as  I 
could  have  been  a  quarter  of  a  century  earlier 
to  see  the  ice-bridge  below  the  Falls  and  the 
ice-cone  that  their  breath  had  formed ;  in  fact, 
I  had  waited  a  good  deal  longer  to  see  them. 
Shall  I  own  that  at  first  sight  these  were  a 
disappointment?  At  first  sight  the  Falls 
themselves  are  a  disappointment,  for  we  come 
to  them  with  something  other  than  the  image 
of  their  grand  and  simple  adequacy  in  our 
minds,  and  seek  to  match  them  with  that  dis- 
tempered invention  of  the  ignorant  fancy.  I 
had  supposed  the  ice-cone  was  a  sharp  peak, 
jutting  up  in  front  of  the  Cataract,  not  reflect- 
ing that  it  must  be  what  it  always  is,  a  rounded 
knoll,  built  up  finely,  finely,  slowly,  slowly,  out 
of  the  spectral  shapes  of  mist,  seized  by  the 
frost  and  flung  down  upon  the  frozen  river. 
When  you  remember  that  this  ice-cone  is 
formed  of  the  innumerable  falls  of  these  ghosts, 
266 


THE    BREAKING    OF    THE    ICE    BRIDGE. 


Photographs  by  H.  Wilson  Saunders. 
THE    ICE    BRIDGE. 


NIAGARA,   FIRST  AND   LAST. 

I  think  one  ought  to  be  content  with  the 
Romanesque  dome-shape  of  the  mound,  how- 
ever Gothic  one's  expectation  may  have  been. 
I  do  not  deny  that  I  should  still  prefer  the  pin- 
nacle, but  that  is  because  I  prefer  Gothic  archi- 
tecture; and  I  advise  the  reader  not  to  hope  for 
it.  If  he  has  a  pleasure  in  delicate  decoration, 
the  closely  stippled  slopes  of  the  ice-cone  will 
give  it  to  him; it  is  like  that  fine  jeweller's  work 
on  the  grain  of  dead  gold  where  the  whole  sur- 
face is  fretted  with  infinitesimal  points.  When 
these  catch  the  sun  of  such  a  blue  midwinter 
sky  as  lifted  its  speckless  arch  above  the  ice- 
cone  on  the  day  I  saw  it,  the  effect  is  all  that 
one  has  a  right  to  ask  of  mere  nature.  I  am 
trying  to  hint  that  I  would  have  built  the  ice- 
cone  somewhat  differently,  if  it  had  been  left 
to  me,  but  that  I  am  not  hypercritical.  If  it 
seems  a  little  low,  a  little  lumpish  in  the  retro- 
spect, still  it  has  its  great  qualities,  which  I 
should  be  the  last  in  refusing  to  recognize. 

The  name  ice-bridge  had  deceived  me,  but 
the  ice-bridge  did  not  finally  disappoint  me. 
It  is  not  a  bridge  at  all.  It  is  the  channel  of 
the  river  blocked  as  far  as  the  eye  can  see  down 
the  gorge  with  huge  squares  and  oblongs  of 
267 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

ice,  or  of  frozen  snow,  as  they  seem,  and  giving 
a  realizing  effect  to  all  the  remembered  pic- 
tures of  arctic  scenery.  This  was  curiously 
heightened  by  some  people  with  sleds  among 
the  crowds,  making  their  way  through  the  ice 
pack  from  shore  to  shore ;  there  wanted  only 
the  fierce  dash  of  some  Esquimaux  dog-team 
and  the  impression  would  have  been  perfect. 
It  was  best  to  look  down  upon  it  all  from  the 
cliffs,  when  at  times  the  effect  was  more  than 
arctic,  when  it  was  lunar:  you  could  fancy 
yourself  gazing  upon  the  face  of  a  dead  world, 
or  rather  a  plaster  mask  of  it,  with  these  small 
black  figures  of  people  crawling  over  it  like 
flies.  It  was  perfectly  still  that  day,  and  in 
spite  of  the  diapason  of  the  Falls,  an  inner  si- 
lence possessed  the  air.  From  the  cliffs  along 
the  river  the  cedars  thrust  outward,  armored 
in  plates  of  ice,  like  the  immemorial  effigies  of 
old-time  warriors,  and  every  cascade  that  had 
flung  its  bannerol  of  mist  to  the  summer  air, 
was  now  furled  to  the  face  of  the  rock  and 
frozen  fast.  Again  a  sense  of  the  repose,  which 
is  the  secret  of  Niagara's  charm,  filled  me. 

There  was  repose  even  in  the  peculiar  traffic 
of  Niagara  when  we  penetrated  to  a  shop  de- 
268 


NIAGARA,   FIRST  AND   LAST. 

voted  to  the  sale  of  its  bric-a-brac  for  some 
photographs  of  the  winter  scenery,  and  we 
fancied  a  weird  surprise  and  a  certain  statu- 
esque reluctance  in  the  dealer.  But  this  may 
have  been  merely  our  fancy.  I  would  insist 
only  upon  the  mute  immobility  of  the  birds  on 
the  feather  fans  behind  the  glazed  shelves,  and 
a  mystical  remoteness  in  the  Japanese  objects 
mingled  with  the  fabrics  of  our  own  Indians 
and  the  imported  feldspar  cups  and  vases. 

Our  train  went  back  to  Buffalo  through  the 
early  winter  sunset,  crimson  and  crimsoner 
over  the  rapids,  and  then  purple  over  the  ice 
where  the  river  began  to  be  frozen  again.  This 
color  was  so  intense  that  the  particles  of  ice 
along  the  brink  were  like  a  wilding  growth  of 
violets — those  candied  violets  you  see  at  the 
confectioner's. 


269 


AS    IT   RUSHES   BY. 
BY  E.  S.  MARTIN. 

The  great  Northwest  has  two  ways  of  reach- 
ing tide-water.  It  filters  down  the  Mississippi, 
losing  impetus  as  it  goes  southward,  until,  too 
much  enervated  to  dig  itself  a  channel,  it  rolls 
sluggishly  on  between  artificial  levees  and 
slips  unobtrusively  into  the  Gulf  by  a  dozen 
different  passages.  The  farther  south  it  goes 
the  more  irresponsible  it  becomes  and  the 
more  need  it  has  of  assistance.  To  get  it  safely 
emptied  is  a  constant  care,  calling  for  perpet- 
ual labor  and  Congressional  appropriations. 
At  the  least  neglect  it  slops  lazily  over,  and 
settles  down  on  the  surrounding  country. 

How  differently  it  comes  East,  navigating 
the  great  western  lakes  one  after  another,  and 
finally  crowding  impetuously  into  the  Niagara 
River  and  over  its  precipice  with  a  roar  and  a 
jarring  crash,  and  then  out  through  Ontario 
and  the  swift  St.  Lawrence  to  the  Ocean! 
270 


AS  IT  RUSHES  BY. 

Journeying  southward  it  blends  imperceptibly 
with  the  region  it  traverses,  so  that  it  is  hard 
to  say  where  the  West  leaves  off  and  the  South 
begins.  But  it  drops  down  upon  the  East 
with  an  enormous  plunge  that  leaves  no  doubt 
of  the  whereabouts  of  the  line  of  demarcation. 
Beyond  Niagara  is  the  West.  Here  the  East 
begins,  equal  to  the  West  in  energy  and  vim, 
but  different.  The  West  never  merges  with 
the  East  as  it  does  with  the  South.  It  comes 
to  Niagara  in  overwhelming  force  and  thun- 
ders at  its  gates,  and  then  rolls  off  northeast- 
erly and  out  through  the  British  provinces.  It 
asks  nothing  of  man  except  to  be  let  alone. 
It  has  dug  its  own  channel  with  its  own  tools, 
and  formed  itself  a  basin  of  ample  size  to  hold 
it.  It  is  responsible,  self-reliant,  fully  able  to 
take  care  of  itself,  and  ever  ready  to  do  any 
odd  jobs  that  offer  as  it  surges  along.  It 
seems  to  gather  energy  from  the  invigorating 
influences  that  meet  it  in  its  progress. 

Colonel  Ingersoll  came  to  Niagara  one  day 
and  looked  at  the  tribute  of  the  great  North- 
west as  it  surged  by,  and  said :  "  Niagara  Falls 
is  a  dangerous  place." 

There  was  disparagement  in  the  Colonel's 
271 


THE   NIAGARA   BOOK. 

tone,  and  disparagement  is  something  to 
which  Niagara  is  not  much  used.  Whatever 
native  it  was  that  heard  him  stared  and  asked : 
"  Do  you  mean  the  hackmen  ?  " 

"  No !  "  said  the  eminent  orator.  "  I  mean 
those  great  rushing  waters.  There  is  nothing 
attractive  to  me  in  them.  They  are  really  dan- 
gerous. There  is  so  much  noise;  so  much 
tumult.  It  is  simply  a  mighty  force  of  nature, 
one  of  those  tremendous  powers  which  is  to 
be  feared  for  its  danger." 

The  native's  eyebrows  went  up  at  that.  It 
is  true  enough  that  the  Niagara  River  is  not 
one  that  a  cautious  person  would  care  to  navi- 
gate, particularly  above  the  Falls,  but  the 
Colonel,  though  not  anchored  to  anything, 
was  at  least  on  firm  land.  The  reflection  sug- 
gested itself,  that  he  had  imperfectly  diagnosed 
his  own  sensations,  and  that  his  dissatisfaction, 
which  was  obviously  genuine,  really  sprung 
from  the  traditional  disagreement  of  two  of  a 
trade.  How  could  an  orator  be  edified  by  a 
tone  besides  which  his  own  best  utterance  was 
but  a  squeak?  To  make  impressions  is  the 
orator's  business,  not  to  receive  them.  But  at 
Niagara,  Nature  does  the  talking  and  has  her 
272 


AS  IT  RUSHES  BY. 

say  out,  and  man's  part  is  to  listen  and  to  di- 
gest. It  was  a  high  compliment  that  the  great 
talker  paid  to  the  river  by  his  instinctive  dis- 
approval, and  perfectly  consistent  with  his 
point  of  view  were  his  continuing  remarks : 

"  What  I  like  in  Nature  is  a  cultivated  field 
where  men  can  work  in  the  free,  open  air; 
where  there  is  quiet  and  repose,  not  turmoil, 
strife,  tumult,  fearful  roar,  or  struggle  for  mas- 
tery. I  do  not  like  the  crowded,  stuffy  work- 
shop where  life  is  a  slavery  and  drudgery, 
where  men  are  slaves.  Give  me  the  calm, 
cultivated  land  of  waving  grain,  of  flowers,  of 
happiness." 

So  spoke  the  man  of  superabundant  energy, 
not  unnaturally  perferring  scenes  that  seem  to 
require  some  stirring  up  to  those  where  all  the 
requisite  agitation  comes  ready  furnished  to 
hand.  It  is  true  that  to  the  professional  regu- 
lator, Niagara  bristles  with  discouragement. 
There  is  comparatively  little  left  there  for  man 
to  do.  To  keep  his  hands  off  and  let  Nature 
take  her  course  is  the  chief  boon  that  is  asked 
of  him.  But  it  is  about  the  last  place  in  the 
world  to  be  compared  to  a  stuffy  workshop 
where  men  are  slaves.  Indeed,  the  very  pith 

18  273 


THE   NIAGARA   BOOK. 

of  its  contrast  to  the  "  cultivated  land  of  wav- 
ing grain  "  lies  in  the  absence  here  of  con- 
spicuous signs  of  human  labor.  Work  was 
traditionally  imposed  upon  man  for  his  sins. 
Even  if  the  natural  man  is  not  rightfully  lazy, 
he  is  at  least  entitled  to  love  leisure,  and  prefer 
the  minimum  of  toil.  Surely  Niagara  is  fit  to 
refresh  his  jaded  spirit.  If  he  sighs  at  the  foot 
of  the  Pyramids  to  think  of  the  vast  industry 
that  was  the  cost  of  their  construction,  he  is 
conversely  entitled  to  exult  at  the  resistless 
might  of  the  Niagara  River  emptying  its  floods 
into  its  self-chiselled  gorge.  Only  the  planets 
wandering  in  their  courses,  harnessed  to  the 
sun,  are  so  fit  to  stir  an  exultation  of  repose. 
Laborious  man  sits  on  our  river's  brink  and 
meditates  on  the  great  spectacle  of  labor 
saved.  The  Falls  must  go  themselves.  Within 
the  memory  of  man  it  has  never  been  found 
needful  even  in  the  dryest  times  to  operate 
them  by  artificial  means.  In  sight  or  out  of 
sight  there  is  no  apparatus  for  pumping  water 
back  into  Lake  Erie  to  keep  the  Cataract  go- 
ing. Neither  has  it  ever  been  found  necessary 
to  dam  the  lake  to  keep  the  water  from  run- 
ning out,  nor  to  bail  it  out  to  keep  it  from  run- 
274 


Photograph  by  Niels 
THE   CAVE   OF   THE   WINDS   IN    WINTER. 


A8  IT  RUSHES  BT. 

ning  over.  Nature  has  done  everything.  The 
lake  is  always  full,  the  river  never  ceases 
to  drain  it.  The  precipice  that  the  torrent 
goes  over  is  not  absolutely  permanent  or 
changeless,  but  like  the  rest  of  the  appara- 
tus it  takes  care  of  itself,  asking  nothing  of 
man  but  to  stand  from  under  when  its  fea- 
tures shift. 

The  great  lesson  of  Niagara  is  to  maintain 
a  respectful  attitude  towards  Nature.  She  is 
irresistible;  not  to  be  thwarted,  not  to  be 
turned  aside.  It  is  our  affair  to  study  her 
courses,  to  get  out  of  her  way  when  she  wants 
the  whole  road,  and  to  make  her  do  our  work 
by  the  simple  expedient  of  making  our  desires 
consistent  with  her  methods. 

In  this  feature  of  the  Falls  lie  their  special 
adaptation  to  be  gazed  upon  by  young  per- 
sons who  have  just  entered  the  married  state 
and  assumed  the  more  serious  burdens  of  life. 
It  is  not  accident  that  brings  the  newly  mar- 
ried to  Niagara.  It  is  instinct.  It  is  good  for 
them  to  be  here,  and  some  subtle  influence  has 
taught  them  to  know  it.  Seeking  for  enter- 
tainment not  to  be  laboriously  won,  but  of  a 
sort  that  stimulates  the  faculties  while  it  pro- 
275 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

motes  reflection,  they  find  it  here.  The  river 
entertains  them.  It  speaks  to  them  in  contin- 
uous discourse  without  exacting  any  reply.  It 
distracts  their  attention  gently  from  one  an- 
other, which  is  a  kindness,  and  when  they 
speak  together  it  prevents  alien  ears  from 
overhearing  what  they  say.  It  is  uniformly 
kind  to  them — so  long  as  they  hug  the  bank 
— and  then  it  gives  them  so  many  useful  points 
for  the  shaping  of  their  future  destinies!  It 
teaches  them  to  let  things  slide  when  opposi- 
tion will  do  no  good.  It  stands  to  them  for 
the  resistless  stream  of  life  which  sweeps  us 
all  over  its  falls  first  or  last,  so  that  it  pays  us 
to  float  tranquilly  while  we  may  and  not  mar 
so  brief  a  passage  with  altercation.  The  in- 
dividuality of  so  impetuous  a  flood  can  hardly 
fail  to  make  its  impression  on  them,  suggest- 
ing that  every  individuality,  even  that  of  a 
married  woman,  has  a  right  to  its  own  devel- 
opment, and  comes  swifter  and  safer  to  a  tran- 
quil haven  if  left  reasonably  free  to  follow  out 
its  natural  course. 

But  only  dense  men  bully  their  wives  any- 
way, and  possibly  such  men  are  too  impervious 
to  instruction  to  gather  the  wisdom  of  Niagara 
276 


AS  IT  RUSHES  BY. 


as  it  rushes  by.  But  its  wisdom  is  always 
there  for  those  who  can  seize  it,  and  for  all 
coming  time  its  banks  promise  to  be  trod  by 
men  and  women  who  have  need  at  least  to  try. 


277 


FAMOUS     VISITORS    AT     NIAG- 
ARA FALLS. 

BY  REV.  THOMAS  R.  SLICER. 

The  earliest  description  in  literature  of  the 
Falls  of  Niagara  was  made  by  the  priest  and 
historian  Father  Hennepin,  the  associate  of 
the  explorer  La  Salle,  who  built,  in  1679,  the 
Griffin,  to  which  appertains  the  honor  of  being 
the  first  vessel  to  sail  the  Great  Lakes. 

The  reference  is  entitled  "  A  description  of 
the  Fall  of  the  River  Niagara  which  is  to  be 
seen  betwixt  the  Lake  Ontario  and  that  of 
Erie." 

We  give  the  commonly  accepted  version : 

"  Betwixt  the  Lake  Ontario  and  Erie,  there 
is  a  vast  and  prodigious  Cadence  of  Water, 
which  falls  down  after  a  surprising  and  aston- 
ishing manner,  insomuch  that  the  Universe 
does  not  afford  its  parallel.  'Tis  true,  Italy 
and  Suedeland  boast  of  some  such  things;  but 
278 


FAMOUS    VISITORS   AT  NIAGARA   FALLS. 

we  may  well  say  they  are  but  sorry  patterns, 
when  compared  to  this  of  which  we  now  speak. 
At  the  foot  of  this  horrible  Precipice,  we  meet 
with  the  River  Niagara,  which  is  not  above  a 
quarter  of  a  league  broad,  but  is  wonderfully 
deep  in  some  places.  It  is  so  rapid  above  this 
Descent,  that  it  violently  hurries  down  the 
wild  beasts  while  endeavoring  to  pass  it  to  feed 
on  the  other  side,  they  not  being  able  to  with- 
stand the  force  of  its  Current  which  inevitably 
casts  them  headlong  above  six  hundred  feet 
high. 

"  This  wonderful  Downfall  is  compounded 
of  two  cross-streams  of  Water,  and  two  Falls, 
with  an  isle  sloping  along  the  middle  of  it. 
The  waters  which  fall  from  this  horrible  Preci- 
pice do  foam  and  boyl  after  the  most  hideous 
manner  imaginable,  making  an  outrageous 
noise,  more  terrible  than  that  of  Thunder;  for 
when  the  wind  blows  out  of  the  South,  their 
dismal  roaring  may  be  heard  more  than  Fif- 
teen Leagues  off. 

"  The  River  Niagara  having  thrown  itself 

down  this  incredible  Precipice,  continues  its 

impetuous  course  for  Two  Leagues  together, 

to  the  great  Rock  above  mentioned,  with  inex- 

279 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

pressible  rapidity.  But  having  passed  that,  its 
impetuosity  relents,  gliding  along  more  gently 
for  the  other  Two  Leagues,  till  it  arrives  at  the 
Lake  Ontario  or  Frontenac. 

"  Any  Bark  or  greater  Vessel  may  pass  from 
the  Fort  to  the  foot  of  this  huge  Rock  above 
mentioned.  This  Rock  lies  to  the  Westward, 
and  is  cut  off  from  the  Land  by  the  River  Ni- 
agara about  Two  Leagues  farther  down  than 
the  great  Fall,  for  which  Two  Leagues  the 
people  are  obliged  to  transport  their  goods 
overland;  but  the  way  is  very  good,  and  the 
Trees  are  very  few,  chiefly  Firs  and  Oakes. 

"  From  the  great  Fall  unto  this  Rock,  which 
is  to  the  West  of  the  River,  the  two  brinks  of 
it  are  so  prodigious  high,  that  it  would  make 
one  tremble  to  look  steadily  upon  the  water, 
rolling  along  with  a  rapidity  not  to  be  im- 
agined. Were  it  not  for  this  vast  Cataract, 
which  interrupts  Navigation,  they  might  sail 
with  Barks  or  greater  Vessels,  more  than  Four 
Hundred  and  Fifty  Leagues,  crossing  the  Lake 
of  Hurons,  and  reaching  even  to  the  farther 
end  of  the  Lake  of  Illinois,  which  two  Lakes 
we  may  easily  say  are  little  Seas  of  fresh 
Water." 


FAMOUS   VISITORS   AT  NIAGARA   FALLS. 

There  are  other  accounts  by  Tonti,  Hontan, 
and  other  early  voyagers,  but  they  are  not 
especially  to  the  purpose  of  this  recital. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  present  century, 
there  limped,  with  an  ankle  sprained,  to  the 
shores  of  Lake  Erie,  from  the  borders  of  the 
forest,  a  young  Englishman,  whose  tastes  and 
conceit  were  in  strong  contrast  to  the  primitive 
simplicity  of  the  scene  on  which  he  entered. 

Perhaps  no  greater  tribute  has  ever  been 
paid  to  the  charm  of  the  Falls  of  Niagara  than 
is  suggested  by  the  fact  that  they  reconciled 
the  mind  of  Tom  Moore  to  the  disgusting  ex- 
periences of  travel  in  America,  where,  to  his 
thinking,  the  promiscuous  huddling  together 
of  all  sorts  of  people  in  the  stage-coaches  was 
a  symbol  of  the  mixed  character  of  a  Republi- 
can Government.  A  man  who  had  been  petted 
by  an  indulgent  family  and  flattered  by  a  social 
circle,  which  sang  his  songs  and  laughed  at 
his  wit,  found  the  unsettled  society  of  the  New 
World  not  easy  to  adjust  to  his  fastidious 
taste ;  he  had  done  us  the  honor  to  look  over 
our  country,  and  had  served  it  up  in  his  letters 
as  "  an  interesting  world,  which  with  all  the 
defects  and  disgusting  peculiarities  of  its  na- 
281 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

tives,  gives  every  promise  of  no  very  distant 
competition  with  the  first  powers  of  the  East- 
ern hemisphere." 

When  the  valleys  of  the  Mohawk  and  the 
Genesee  had  been  traversed,  Moore  was  so 
much  touched  by  their  natural  beauty  that  he 
exclaims :  "  Such  scenery  as  there  is  around 
me !  it  is  quite  dreadful  that  any  heart,  born  for 
sublimities,  should  be  doomed  to  breathe  away 
its  hours  amidst  the  miniature  productions  of 
this  world,  without  seeing  what  shapes  nature 
can  assume,  what  wonders  God  can  give  birth 
to." 

But  he  had  not  yet  seen  the  Falls.  He  is 
about  to  start  upon  his  journey  to  the  Falls  of 
Niagara  in  a  wagon.  On  July  226.  he  sends 
back  by  tHe  driver  of  the  wagon  a  letter  to  be 
forwarded  to  his  mother,  written  from  upper 
Chippewa :  "  Just  arrived  within  a  mile  and  a 
half  of  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  and  their  tremen- 
dous roar  at  this  moment  sounding  in  my 
ears."  Two  days  later  he  writes :  "  I  have  seen 
the  Falls,  and  am  all  rapture  and  amazement. 
>  .  .  Arrived  at  Chippewa  within  three 
miles  of  the  Falls  to  dinner  Saturday,  July 
2 1  st.  That  evening  walked  toward  the  Falls, 
282 


FAMOUS   VISITORS  AT  NIAGARA   FALLS. 

but  got  no  further  than  the  Rapids,  which  gave 
us  a  prelibation  of  the  grandeur  we  had  to 
expect. 

"  Next  day,  Sunday,  July  22d,  went  to  visit 
the  Falls.  Never  shall  I  forget  the  impres- 
sions I  felt  at  the  first  glimpse  of  them  which 
we  got  as  the  carriage  passed  over  the  hill  that 
overlooks  them.  We  were  not  near  enough 
to  be  agitated  by  the  terrific  effects  of  the 
scene,  but  saw  through  the  trees  this  mighty 
flow  of  waters  descending  with  calm  mag- 
nificence, and  received  enough  of  its  grandeur 
to  set  imagination  on  the  wing;  imagination 
which  even  at  Niagara  can  outrun  reality. 

"  I  felt  as  if  approaching  the  very  residence 
of  the  Deity;  the  tears  started  into  my  eyes; 
and  I  remained  for  moments  after  we  had  lost 
sight  of  the  scene,  in  that  delicious  absorption 
which  pious  enthusiasm  alone  can  produce. 
We  arrived  at  the  New  Ladder  and  descended 
to  the  bottom.  Here  all  its  awful  sublimities 
rushed  full  upon  me.  But  the  former  ex- 
quisite sensation  was  gone.  I  now  saw  all. 
The  string  that  had  been  touched  by  the  first 
impulse,  and  which  fancy  would  have  kept  for- 
ever in  vibration,  now  rested  at  Reality.  Yet 
283 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

though  there  was  no  more  to  imagine,  there 
was  much  to  feel.  My  whole  heart  and  soul 
ascended  toward  the  Divinity  in  a  swell  of  de- 
vout admiration,  which  I  never  before  ex- 
perienced. .  .  .  Oh!  bring  the  Atheist 
here,  and  he  cannot  return  an  Atheist !  " 

The  chief  value  of  these  attempts  at  descrip- 
tion is  not  that  they  describe  or  fail  to  describe 
this  natural  phenomenon,  but  that  they  do  de- 
scribe the  mind  of  the  beholder;  for  it  is  ever  a 
fact  that  when  a  great  subject  is  dealt  with  by 
the  human  mind  we  get  a  double  lesson;  if  the 
mind  be  competent  we  get  a  description  of  the 
subject,  but  in  any  event  we  get  a  portrait  of 
the  mind.  In  no  instance  does  this  more  ap- 
pear than  in  the  contrasting  way  in  which  Ni- 
agara claimed  the  attention  of  three  noted 
women:  Mrs.  Jameson,  Harriet  Martineau, 
and  Margaret  Fuller.  One  would  suppose 
that  Mrs.  Jameson's  sense  of  beauty  in  art 
would  have  prepared  her  mind  for  at  least  an 
esctasy;  or  was  it  that  her  mind,  already  winged 
for  the  flights  of  imagination,  and  used  to  deal- 
ing with  art-forms  in  the  galleries  of  Europe, 
did  not  find  it  easy  to  place  itself  en  rapport 
284 


Photograph  by  Curt 


MOONLIGHT. 


FAMOUS   VISITORS   AT  NIAGARA   FALLS. 

with  a  canvas  so  large  as  that  on  which  the 
beauties  of  Niagara  are  painted  by  an  unseen 
hand,  in  colors  which  are  never  two  moments 
alike.  Whatever  may  be  the  psychological 
reason,  it  is  necessary  to  relate  that  Mrs. 
Jameson  would  rather  not  have  seen  Niagara. 
It  was  in  1837  tnat  ner  visit  was  made  to  the 
Falls  in  the  last  part  of  January  of  that  year. 
When  she  had  stood  face  to  face  with  them  she 
exclaims :  "  Well,  I  have  seen  these  cataracts 
of  Niagara  which  have  thundered  in  my  mind's 
ear  ever  since  I  can  remember — which  have 
been  my  childhood's  thought,  my  youth's  de- 
sire, since  first  my  imagination  was  awakened 
to  wonder  and  to  wish.  I  have  beheld  them, 
and  shall  I  whisper  it  to  you — but,  O  tell  it  not 
among  the  Philistines — I  wish  I  had  not!  I 
wish  they  were  still  a  thing  to  behold,  a  thing 
to  be  imagined,  hoped,  and  anticipated,  some- 
thing to  live  for — the  reality  has  displaced 
from  my  mind  an  illusion  far  more  magnificent 
than  itself.  I  have  no  words  for  my  disap- 
pointment, yet  I  have  not  the  presumption  to 
suppose  that  all  I  have  heard  and  read  of 
Niagara  is  false  or  exaggerated — that  every 
expression  of  astonishment,  enthusiasm,  rap- 
285 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

ture  is  affectation  or  hyperbole.  No;  it  must 
be  my  own  fault.  Terni,  and  some  of  the 
Swiss  cataracts  leaping  from  their  mountains, 
have  affected  me  a  thousand  times  more  than 
all  the  immensity  of  Niagara.  Oh,  I  could 
beat  myself,  and  now  there  is  no  help — the 
first  moment,  the  first  impression,  is  over — is 
lost;  something  is  gone  that  cannot  be  re- 
stored. What  has  come  over  my  soul  and 
senses?  I  am  no  longer  Anna — I  am  meta- 
morphosed— I  am  translated — I  am  an  ass's 
head,  a  clod,  a  wooden  spoon,  a  fat  weed  grow- 
ing on  Lethe's  bank,  a  stock,  a  stone,  a  petri- 
faction, for  have  I  not  seen  Niagara,  the  won- 
der of  wonders,  and  felt — no  words  can  tell 
what  disappointment ! 

"  My  Imagination  had  been  so  impressed  by 
the  vast  height  of  the  Falls  that  I  was  con- 
stantly looking  in  an  upward  direction,  when, 
as  we  came  to  the  brow  of  the  hill,  my  com- 
panion suddenly  checked  the  horses,  and  ex- 
claimed, '  The  Falls ! '  I  was  not  for  an  in- 
stant aware  of  their  presence;  we  were  yet  at  a 
distance  looking  down  upon  them;  and  I  saw 
at  one  glance  a  flat,  extensive  plain;  the  sun 
having  withdrawn  its  beams  for  a  moment, 
286 


FAMOUS   VISITORS   AT  NIAGARA   FALLS. 

there  was  neither  light  nor  shade  nor  color. 
In  the  midst  were  seen  the  two  great  cataracts, 
but  merely  as  a  feature  in  the  wide  landscape. 
The  sound  was  by  no  means  overpowering. 
And  the  clouds  of  spray  which  Fannie  Butler 
called  so  beautifully  the  '  everlasting  incense  of 
the  waters/  now  condensed,  ere  they  rose,  by 
the  excessive  cold,  fell  round  the  base  of  the 
cataracts  in  fleecy  folds,  just  concealing  that 
furious  embrace  of  the  waters  above  and  the 
waters  below. 

"  All  the  associations  which  in  imagination 
I  had  gathered  round  the  scene,  its  appalling 
terrors,  its  soul-subduing  beauty,  power,  and 
height,  and  velocity,  and  immensity,  were  all 
diminished  in  effect,  or  wholly  lost.  I  was 
quite  silent — my  soul  sank  within  me."  It 
would  seem  from  the  account  of  Mrs.  Jameson 
that  she  had  a  most  practical  mind,  for  she  was 
evidently  delighted  by  the  fact  that  a  "  little 
Yankee  boy,  with  a  shrewd,  sharp  face  and 
twinkling  black  eyes,  could  not  palm  off  a  flock 
of  gulls  on  her  for  eagles."  The  one  sense  of 
comfort  that  visited  her  arises  from  the  fact 
that  though  the  Falls  were  not  complementary 
to  her  mood,  the  smart  boy  was  complimentary 
287 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

to  her  smartness,  saying.  "  Well,  now  you  be 
dreadful  smart — smarter  than  many  folks  that 
come  here."  She  tried  the  Falls  from  every 
point  and  found  them  from  every  point  of 
view  equally  trying,  and  confesses  at  last, 
"  The  Falls  did  not  make  on  my  mind  the  im- 
pression that  I  had  anticipated,  perhaps  for 
that  reason,  even  because  I  had  anticipated  it; 
but  '  it  was  sung  to  me  in  my  cradle/  as  the 
Germans  say,  that  I  should  live  to  be  disap- 
pointed even  in  the  Falls  of  Niagara." 

No  two  women  could  have  been  more  un- 
like than  Mrs.  Jameson  and  Margaret  Fuller, 
and  yet  one  is  haunted  with  the  feeling  that 
although  Mrs.  Jameson  has  so  eloquently  de- 
scribed "  Art,  sacred  and  legendary,"  Mar- 
garet Fuller  was  no  less  than  Mrs.  Jameson  a 
soul  sensitive  to  all  influences  of  Art;  but  she 
lifts  her  eyes  to  the  great  Cataract  and  sees  it 
by  the  light  that  fell  from  the  mysterious  and 
sacred  centre  of  her  own  impenetrable  soul. 
She  says :  *  "  The  spectacle  is,  for  once,  great 
enough  to  fill  the  whole  life,  and  supersede 
thought,  giving  us  only  its  own  presence.  '  It 

*  "At  Home  and  Aboard  ;   or,  Things  and  Thoughts  in 
America  and  Europe." 

288 


FAMOUS   VISITORS   AT  NIAGARA   FALLS. 

is  good  to  be  here  '  is  the  best  as  it  is  the  sim- 
plest expression  that  occurs  to  the  mind,"  and 
adds  further :  "  So  great  a  sight  soon  satisfies, 
making  us  content  with  itself  and  with  what  is 
less  than  itself.  Our  desires  once  realized, 
haunt  us  again  less  readily.  Having  '  lived 
one  day/  we  would  depart  and  become  worthy 
to  live  another.  My  nerves,  too  much  braced 
up  by  such  an  atmosphere,  do  not  well  bear 
the  continual  stress  of  sight  and  sound.  For 
here  there  is  no  escape  from  the  weight  of  per- 
petual creation;  all  other  forms  and  motions 
come  and  go,  the  tide  rises  and  recedes,  the 
wind,  at  its  mightiest,  moves  in  gales  and 
gusts,  but  there  is  really  an  incessant,  an  in- 
defatigable motion.  Awake  or  asleep,  there 
is  no  escape;  still  this  rushing  round  you  and 
through  you.  It  is  in  this  way  I  have  most 
felt  the  grandeur — something  eternal,  if  not 
infinite. 

"  At  times  a  secondary  music  arises ;  the 
Cataract  seems  to  seize  its  own  rhythm  and 
sing  it  over  again  so  that  the  ear  and  soul  are 
roused  by  a  double  vibration.  This  is  some 
effect  of  the  wind,  causing  echoes  to  the  thun- 
dering anthem.  It  is  very  sublime,  giving  the 
19  289 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

effect  of  a  spiritual  repetition  through  all  the 
spheres." 

Margaret  Fuller  speaks  of  Niagara  as  "  the 
one  object  in  the  world  that  would  not  dis- 
appoint." 

She  says  of  the  Falls :  "  Daily  their  propor- 
tions widened  and  towered  upon  my  sight,  and 
I  got,  at  last,  a  proper  foreground  for  these 
sublime  distances.  Before  coming  away  I 
think  I  really  saw  the  full  wonder  of  the  scene. 
After  a  while  it  so  drew  me  into  itself  as  to 
inspire  an  undefined  dread,  such  as  I  never 
knew  before,  such  as  may  be  felt  when  death 
is  about  to  usher  us  into  a  new  existence.  The 
perpetual  trampling  of  the  waters  seized  my 
senses.  I  felt  that  no  other  sound,  however 
near,  could  be  heard,  and  would  start  and  look 
behind  me  for  a  foe.  I  realized  the  identity  of 
that  mood  of  nature  in  which  these  waters 
were  poured  down  with  absorbing  force,  with 
that  in  which  the  Indian  was  shaped  on  the 
same  soil." 

There  is  a  touch  of  nature  in  Margaret  Ful- 
ler's confession,  "  The  Whirlpool  I  like  very 
much."  She  was  quite  capable  of  making  her 
friends  teel  that  she  could  be  as  "  sternly 
290 


FAMOUS    VISITORS  AT  NIAGARA   FALLS. 

solemn,"  as  impenetrable  to  the  eye  as  the 
Whirlpool  itself.  The  poetic  side  of  her  na- 
ture was  satisfied  with  the  beautiful  forest  on 
Goat  Island  and  that  wealth  of  wild  flowers  of 
which  it  was  said  by  Sir  Joseph  Hooker,  that 
more  varieties  were  to  be  found  on  Goat  Isl- 
and than  anywhere  else  in  America  in  the  same 
expanse  of  wildwood. 

Harriet  Martineau's  impressions  were  de- 
rived from  a  point  not  described  by  either  of 
the  other  women  before  named.  It  was  on 
her  second  visit  to  Niagara  that  we  have  from 
her  a  description  of  her  sensations  in  passing 
behind  the  American  Fall. 

Miss  Martineau  says :  "  From  the  moment 
that  I  perceived  that  we  were  actually  behind 
the  Cataract  and  not  in  a  mere  cloud  of  spray, 
the  enjoyment  was  intense.  I  not  only  saw 
the  watery  curtain  before  me  like  the  tempest- 
driven  snow,  but  by  momentary  glances  could 
see  the  crystal  roof  of  one  of  the  most  wonder- 
ful of  Nature's  palaces.  The  precise  point  at 
which  the  flood  quitted  the  rock  was  marked 
by  a  gush  of  silvery  light,  which,  of  course,  was 
brighter  where  the  waters  were  shooting  for- 
ward, than  below  where  they  fell  perpendicu- 
291 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

larly."  She  then  describes  quite  graphically 
her  successful  effort  to  reach  Termination 
Rock. 

We  turn  now  to  another  English  mind,  in- 
terested in  an  intense  way  in  human  welfare, 
interested  as  Miss  Martineau  was,  but  how 
different  in  the  expression  of  that  interest !  It 
is  a  strange  contrast  which  it  exhibits  in  pres- 
ence of  the  great  flood. 

The  mind  that  created  Mr.  Pickwick  and 
David  Copperfield  will  have  something  to  say 
original  even  about  Niagara.  But  Dickens 
was  at  heart  a  poet.  His  fiction  was,  perhaps, 
exaggeration  of  the  facts,  but  the  facts  were 
forever  fixed  by  it;  and  brought  face  to  face 
with  Nature  in  such  aspects  as  make  the 
mighty  Cataract,  we  should  expect  to  have 
called  out  from  his  soul  that  religious  response 
which  mystery  and  majesty  never  failed  to 
evoke;  and  we  are  not  disappointed.  He 
says :  "  Whenever  the  train  halted  I  listened 
for  the  roar,  and  was  constantly  straining  my 
eyes  in  the  direction  where  I  knew  the  Falls 
must  be,  from  seeing  the  river  rolling  on 
toward  them;  every  moment  expecting  to  be- 
hold the  spray.  Within  a  few  minutes  of  our 
292 


FAMOUS   VISITORS   AT  NIAGARA   FALLS. 

stopping,  not  before,  I  saw  two  great  white 
clouds  rising  up  slowly  and  majestically  from 
the  depths  of  the  earth.  That  was  all.  At 
length  we  alighted,  and  then  for  the  first  time 
I  heard  the  mighty  rush  of  water  and  felt  the 
ground  tremble  under  my  feet."  He  climbed 
down  the  steep  and  slippery  bank,  made  un- 
secure  to  the  foot  by  rain  and  half-melted  ice, 
to  face  the  Fall,  but  was  not  content  with  this 
view.  A  little  ferryboat  that  then  plied  from 
one  side  to  the  other  carried  him  and  his  party 
across  the  river  below  the  Falls,  while  he  was 
more  and  more  astounded  by  the  vastness  of 
the  scene.  He  says :  "  It  was  not  until  I  came 
on  Table  Rock  and  looked,  great  Heaven !  on 
what  a  fall  of  bright  green  water — that  it  came 
upon  me  in  its  full  majesty.  Then  I  felt  how 
near  to  my  Creator  I  was  standing;  the  first 
effect,  and  the  enduring  one,  instant  and  last- 
ing, of  the  tremendous  spectacle,  was  peace. 
Peace  of  mind,  tranquillity,  calm  recollections 
of  the  dead,  great  thoughts  of  eternal  rest  and 
happiness ;  nothing  of  gloom  or  terror.  Niag- 
ara was  at  once  stamped  upon  my  heart,  an 
image  of  beauty,  to  remain  there,  changeless 
and  indelible,  until  its  pulses  cease  to  beat  for- 
293 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

ever.  I  never  stirred  in  all  that  time  from  the 
Canadian  side  whither  I  had  gone  at  first.  I 
never  crossed  the  river  again;  for  I  knew  there 
were  people  on  the  other  shore,  and  in  such  a 
place  it  is  natural  to  shun  strange  company.* 
To  wander  to  and  fro  all  day  and  see  the  cata- 
racts from  all  points  of  view;  to  stand  upon 
the  edge  of  the  great  Horse  Shoe  Fall,  mark- 
ing the  hurried  water  gathering  strength  as  it 
approached  the  verge,  yet  seeming,  too,  to 
pause  before  it  shot  into  the  gulf  below;  to 
gaze  from  the  river's  level  up  at  the  torrent  as 
it  came  streaming  down;  to  climb  the  neigh- 
boring heights  and  watch  it  through  the  trees, 
and  see  the  wreathing  water  in  the  rapids, 
hurrying  on  to  take  its  fearful  plunge;  to  lin- 
ger in  the  shadow  of  the  solemn  rocks  three 
miles  below,  watching  the  river  as,  stirred  by 
no  visible  cause,  it  heaved  and  eddied  and 
awoke  the  echoes,  being  troubled  yet  far  down 
beneath  the  surface,  by  its  giant  leap;  to  have 
Niagara  before  me,  lighted  by  the  sun  and  the 
moon,  red  in  the  day's  decline,  and  gray  as 

*  The  contrast  in  this  particular  between  Dickens  and  N. 
P.  Willis  opens  up  an  interesting  chapter  in  the  natural  differ- 
ences in  literary  temperament  as  it  deals  with  human  life. 
294 


FAMOUS   VISITORS   AT   NIAGARA   FALLS. 

evening  slowly  fell  upon  it;  to  look  upon  it 
every  day,  and  wake  up  in  the  night  and  hear 
its  ceaseless  voice,  this  was  enough.  I  think, 
in  every  quiet  season  now,  still  do  those  waters 
roll  and  leap  and  roar  and  tumble  all  day  long; 
still  are  the  rainbows  spanning  them  a  hun- 
dred feet  below.  Still  when  the  sun  is  on 
them  do  they  shine  and  glow  like  molten  gold. 
Still  when  the  day  is  gloomy  do  they  fall  like 
snow,  or  seem  to  crumble  away  like  the  front 
of  a  great  chalk  cliff,  or  roll  down  the  rock 
like  dense  white  smoke.  But  always  does  this 
mighty  stream  appear  to  die  as  it  comes  down, 
and  always  from  its  unfathomable  grave  arises 
that  tremendous  ghost  of  spray  and  mist, 
which  is  never  laid;  which  has  haunted  this 
place  with  the  same  dread  solemnity  since 
darkness  brooded  on  the  deep,  and  that  first 
flood  before  the  deluge — light — came  rushing 
on  Creation  at  the  word  of  God." 

Nothing  could  be  more  characteristic  of 
that  strange  commingling  of  wonder  and  re- 
serve in  a  human  nature  than  the  way  in  which 
Hawthorne  came  toward,  and  yet  not  quite  to 
the  Falls  again  and  again.  He  says :  "  I  had 
lingered  away  from  it  and  wandered  to  other 
295 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

scenes.  My  treasury  of  anticipated  enjoy- 
ments comprising  all  the  wonders  of  the  world 
had  nothing  else  so  magnificent;  I  was  loath 
to  exchange  the  pleasures  of  hope  for  those  of 
memory  so  soon."  There  was  nothing  of  the 
severe  Yankee  temperament  in  Hawthorne's 
attitude  toward  this  great  scene;  it  was  rather 
that  infusion  of  French  self-indulgence  which 
made  him  dread  to  count  a  delight,  as  a  thing 
he  had  had.  He  says :  "  At  length  the  day 
came,  I  walked  toward  Goat  Island  and 
crossed  the  bridge;  above  and  below  me  were 
the  rapids,  a  river  of  impetuous  snow,  with 
here  and  there  a  dark  rock  amid  its  whiteness, 
resisting  all  the  physical  fury  as  any  cold  spirit 
did  the  moral  influences  of  the  scene." 

We  may  go  with  Hawthorne  along  the  path 
if  we  will.  "  On  reaching  Goat  Island,  which 
separates  the  two  great  segments  of  the  Falls, 
I  chose  the  right  hand  path  and  followed  it  to 
the  edge  of  the  American  Cascade;  there, 
while  the  falling  sheet  was  yet  invisible,  I  saw 
the  vapor  that  never  vanishes  and  the  eternal 
rainbow  of  Niagara.  I  gained  an  insulated 
rock  and  observed  a  broad  sheet  of  brilliant 
and  unbroken  foam,  not  shooting  in  a  curved 
296 


FAMOUS   VISITORS   AT  NIAGARA   FALLS. 

line  from  the  top  of  the  precipice,  but  falling 
headlong  down  from  height  to  depth."  When 
Hawthorne  had  made  the  round  of  the  island 
and  had  seen  the  Falls  from  every  available 
coign  of  vantage,  he  stops,  as  was  his  custom,  to 
take  an  account  of  his  mental  sensations. 
"  Were  my  long  desires  fulfilled,  and  have  I 
seen  Niagara  ?  But  would  I  had  never  heard 
of  Niagara  until  I  beheld  it !  Blessed  were  the 
wanderers  of  old,  who  heard  its  deep  roar 
sounding  through  the  woods  as  a  summons 
to  its  unknown  wonder,  and  approached  its 
awful  brink  in  all  the  freshness  of  native  feel- 
ing; had  its  own  mysterious  voice  been  the 
first  to  warn  me  of  its  existence,  then,  indeed,  I 
might  have  fallen  down  and  worshipped;  but 
I  had  come  haunted  with  a  vision  of  foam  and 
fury  and  dizzy  cliffs,  and  an  ocean  tumbling 
down  out  of  the  sky — a  scene,  in  short,  which 
Nature  had  too  much  good  taste  and  calm  sim- 
plicity to  realize.  My  mind  had  struggled  to 
adapt  these  false  aspects  to  the  reality,  and 
finding  the  effort  vain,  a  wretched  sense  of  dis- 
appointment weighed  me  down.  I  climbed 
the  precipice  and  threw  myself  on  the  earth, 
feeling  that  I  was  unworthy  to  look  at  the 
297 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

great  Falls  and  careless  about  observing  them 
again."  It  would  be  strange,  indeed,  if  the 
author  of  "  Twice-Told  Tales  "  did  not  find 
some  "  wonder  "  in  this  repetition  to  him  in 
other  terms  of  that  which  he  had  already  im- 
agined. So  he  says  of  the  night  which  suc- 
ceeded the  first  day  visit :  "  As  there  has  been, 
and  may  be  for  ages  to  come,  a  rushing  sound 
was  heard,  as  if  a  great  tempest  was  sweeping 
through  the  air.  It  mingled  in  my  dreams  and 
made  them  full  of  storm  and  whirlwind. 
Whenever  I  awoke  I  heard  this  dread  sound  in 
the  air,  and  the  windows  rattling  as  with  a 
mighty  blast.  I  could  not  rest  again  until, 
looking  forth,  I  saw  how  bright  the  stars  were 
and  that  every  leaf  in  the  garden  was  motion- 
less. Never  was  summer  night  more  calm  to  the 
eye,  nor  a  gale  of  autumn  louder  to  the  ear.  The 
rushing  sound  proceeds  from  the  rapids  and 
the  rattling  of  the  casements  is  but  an  effect  of 
the  vibration  of  the  whole  house  shaken  by  the 
jar  of  the  Cataract.  The  noise  of  the  Rapids 
draws  the  attention  from  the  true  voice  of 
Niagara,  which  is  a  dull,  muffled  thunder,  re- 
sounding between  the  cliffs.  I  spent  a  wake- 
ful hour  at  midnight  in  distinguishing  between 
298 


FAMOUS    VISITORS   AT  NIAGARA   FALLS. 

its  reverberations,  and  rejoiced  to  find  that  my 
former  awe  and  enthusiasm  were  reviving. 

"  Gradually,  and  after  much  contemplation, 
I  came  to  know  by  my  own  feelings  that  Niag- 
ara is  indeed  a  wonder  of  the  world,  and  not 
the  less  wonderful  because  time  and  thought 
must  be  employed  in  comprehending  it."  And 
here  follows  the  sanest  advice  to  those  who 
have  felt  at  first  the  sense  of  disappointment 
that  the  Cataract  is  not  so  great  as  they  had 
conceived :  "  Casting  aside  all  preconceived 
notions  and  preparation  to  be  awe-struck  or 
delighted,  the  beholder  must  stand  beside  it 
in  the  simplicity  of  his  heart,  suffering  the 
mighty  scene  to  work  its  own  impression. 
Night  after  night  I  dreamed  of  it,  and  was 
gladdened  every  morning  by  the  sensations  of 
growing  capacity  to  enjoy  it." 

This  description  by  Hawthorne,  from  which 
these  brief  quotations  have  been  made,  con- 
tains nothing  truer  to  a  fine  nature  than  that 
in  which  he  states  his  last  impressions  of  the 
Falls :  "  I  sat  upon  Table  Rock ;  never  before 
had  my  mind  been  in  such  perfect  unison  with 
the  scene.  There  were  intervals  when  I  was 
conscious  of  nothing  but  the  great  river  roll- 
299 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

ing  calmly  into  the  abyss;  rather  descending 
than  precipitating  itself,  and  acquiring  tenfold 
majesty  from  its  hurried  motion.  It  came  like 
the  march  of  destiny;  it  was  not  taken  by  sur- 
prise, but  seemed  to  have  anticipated  in  all  its 
course  through  the  broad  lakes  that  it  must 
pour  their  collected  waters  down  this  height." 
The  impression  made  by  the  water  where  it 
falls  is  noted  by  Hawthorne  and  by  few  be- 
sides— the  stillness  with  which  it  slips  away 
from  the  stroke  of  the  Cataract,  seeming 
scarcely  to  move  in  its  eddies,  which  are  only 
the  slight  surface  of  the  great  depth  of  waters 
in  the  narrow  gorge  into  which  it  falls.  He 
says  of  this :  "  When  the  observer  has  stood 
still  and  perceived  no  lull  in  the  storm  and 
stress,  that  the  vapor  and  the  foam  are  as  ever- 
lasting as  the  rock  which  produces  them,  all 
this  turmoil  assumes  a  sort  of  calmness;  it 
soothes  while  it  awes  the  mind." 

Hawthorne  is  quite  right  in  feeling  that  Ni- 
agara cannot  be  seen  in  "  company  "  or  wor- 
shipped by  platoons;  for  one  wants  to  steal  to 
some  unobserved  retreat  from  which  to  look 
out  and  feel,  as  he  says,  "  The  enjoyment 

which  becomes  rapture,  more  rapturous  be- 
300 


FAMOUS    VISITORS   AT  NIAGARA   FALLS. 

cause  no  poet  shared  it,  nor  wretch  devoid  of 
poetry  profaned  it ;  the  spot  so  famous  through 
the  world  was  all  mine."  This  same  feeling 
was  shared  by  Charles  Kingsley.  He  says: 
"  I  long  to  simply  look  on  in  silence  whole 
days  at  the  exquisite  beauty  of  form  and 
color." 

To  Dean  Stanley  the  first  sight  of  the  Falls 
seemed  "  an  epoch,  like  the  first  view  of  the 
pyramids,  or  the  snow-clad  range  of  the  Alps." 
His  first  view  of  it  was  at  midnight  under  a 
full  moon.  To  him  it  seemed  an  "  emblem  of 
the  devouring  activity  and  ceaseless,  restless, 
beating  whirlpool  of  existence  in  the  United 
States.  But  into  the  moonlight  sky  there 
rose  a  cloud  of  spray  twice  as  high  as  the  Falls 
themselves,  silent,  majestic,  immovable.  In 
that  silver  column,  glittering  in  the  moonlight, 
I  saw  an  image  of  the  future  of  American  des- 
tiny, of  the  pillar  of  light  which  should  emerge 
from  the  distractions  of  the  present — a  like- 
ness of  the  buoyancy  and  hopefulness  which 
characterizes  you,  both  as  individuals  and  as  a 
nation." 

Professor  Tyndall's  mind  had  not  been 
robbed  of  its  sentiment  by  the  minute  contem- 
301 


OK  liM^Miflrt'  -jiml  ^frt|^pil_  ^>c   I  JOI"^  iii  SUf— 

feral  an  atrofky  in  tbe  appreciation  of  poetry, 
as  ie  iHiiiMlf  «mlrsKrs»  It  is  to  Professor 
TyndaH  we  owe  this  bit  of  poetic  prose  in 
which  be  describes  the  Whirlpool  :  **  The  scene 

as  one  of  holv 


1,.    I  wml  dkivu  to  the  water's  edge, 

loveliness  seem 


to  •**•****  The  *»*«»"  is  i^i^W*^  bv  bigh 
and  almost  pirripitfitisbamks,  covered,  when  I 
was  there,  with  msset  woods.  A  kind  of  mys- 
tery aiijaJM^  to  gyratrng  water,  due,  perhaps, 

to  tbe  Get  that  we  are  to  some  extent  ignorant 
of  die  direction  of  its  force.  It  is  said  that  at 
a  certain  point  in  the  Whirlpool  pine  trees  are 
socked  down  to  he  ejected  mysteriously  else- 
Wuere.  A  lie  'water  ^F  the  bnjjtitest  emerald 
green :  tbe  gauge,  through  which  it  escapes  is 
•union  and  the  motion  of  the  river  swift 
though  silent:  the  surlier  is  steeply  inrHnfd, 
bat  it  is  perfectly  unbroken.  There  are  no 
liieial  waves,  no  TfppPrs,  with  their  breaking 
bubbles,  to  raise  a  •••«•  ••••trj  while  the  depth  is 
here  too  great  to  allow  the  inequality  of  the 
bed  to  ruffle  the  amtur.  Nothing  can  be 
more  beautiful  than  tins  sloping,  liquid  mirror 


FAMOUS   VISITORS  AT  XIAGABA   FALLS. 

formed  by  the  Niagara  in  sliding  from  the 
Whirlpool" 

If  one  wishes  to  know  the  measure  of  the 
mind  of  N.  P.  Willis,  he  may  gain  it  from 
Willis's  description  of  the  Falls  of  Niagara.  It 
does  not  suit  our  purpose  to  quote  it  here.  It 
is  the  same  mixture  of  poetry  and  common- 
place, of  incident  and  contact  with  people,  that 
made  Mr.  Willis  the  ideal  magazine  writer  of 
that  time. 

It  is  strange  to  note  how  different  points 
seem  to  be  the  centre  of  focussed  thought  to 
different  minds.  To  Mrs.  Trollope  it  was  the 
centre  of  the  Horse  Shoe,  which  seemed  "  the 
most  utterly  inconceivable." 

"  The  famous  torrent  converges  there,  as 
the  heavy  mass  pours  in,  twisted,  rolled,  and 
curled  together;  it  gives  the  idea  of  irresistible 
power  such  as  no  other  object  every  conveyed 
to  me.  The  might)-  caldron  into  which  the 
deluge  pours,  the  hundred  silver}-  torrents 
congregated  around  its  verge,  the  smooth  and 
solemn  movement  with  which  it  rolls  its  mas- 
sive volume  over  the  rock,  the  liquid  emerald 
of  its  long  unbroken  waters,  the  fantastic 
wreaths  which  spring  to  meet  it,  and  then  the 
303 


THE   NIAGARA   BOOK. 

shadowy  mist  that  veils  the  horrors  of  the 
crash  below,  constitute  a  scene  almost  too 
enormous  in  its  features  for  man  to  look 
upon." 

To  Charles  Dudley  Warner  it  is  at  a  differ- 
ent point  the  mind  pauses  and  feels  its  most 
impressive  moment.  "  Nowhere  is  the  river 
so  terrible  as  where  it  rushes,  as  if  maddened 
by  its  narrow  bondage,  through  the  canon, 
flowing  down  the  precipice  and  forced  into  this 
contracting  space,  it  fumes  and  tosses  and 
raves  with  a  vindictive  fury,  driving  on  in  a 
passion  that  has  almost  a  human  quality  in  it; 
and  restrained  by  the  walls  of  stone  from  being 
destructive,  it  seems  to  rave  at  its  own  im- 
potence, and  when  it  reaches  the  Whirlpool  it 
is  like  a  hungry  animal,  returning  and  licking 
the  shore  for  the  prey  it  has  missed." 

Prof.  Richard  Proctor  is  impressed  by  the 
terrible  force  of  the  Niagara  at  the  same  spot. 
Speaking  of  the  fatal  attempt  of  Captain  Webb 
to  swim  the  Whirlpool  Rapids  he  says :  "  He 
maybe  did  not  know  what  a  rough  estimate  of 
the  energies  at  work  in  Niagara  should  have 
shown,  that  amid  that  mass  of  water  which  de- 
scends from  the  basin  below  the  Falls  to  the 
304 


FAMOUS   VISITORS   AT  NIAGARA   FALLS. 

engulfing  vortex  of  the  Whirlpool,  the  body 
of  the  biggest  and  strongest  living  creature 
must  be  as  powerless  as  a  drop  of  water  in  mid- 
Atlantic." 

When  Anthony  Trollope  assures  us  in  his 
discussions  upon  novel-writing  that  all  that  a 
novelist  needs  is  a  table  and  chair  with  a  bit  of 
shoemaker's  wax  upon  the  seat  of  it,  we  sus- 
pect that  he  is  only  excusing  his  own  volumin- 
ous production.  But  he  does  not  lack  poetic 
inspiration,  as  the  following  quotations  will 
show :  "  But  we  will  go  on  at  once  to  the  glory 
and  thunder  and  the  majesty,  and  the  wrath  of 
that  upper  hell  of  waters.  We  are  still  on. 
Goat  Island.  Advancing  beyond  the  path -lead- 
ing down  to  the  lower  Fall,  we  come  to  that 
point  of  the  island  at  which  the  waters  of  the 
main  river  begin  to  descend.  Go  down  to  the 
end  of  the  wooden  bridge,  seat  yourself  on  the 
rail,  and  then  sit  till  all  the  outer  world  is  lost 
to  you.  There  is  no  grander  spot  about  Niag- 
ara than  this.  The  waters  are  absolutely 
around  you.  Here,  seated  on  the  rail  of  the 
bridge,  you  will  not  see  the  whole  depth  of  the 
Fall.  In  looking  at  the  grandest  works  of  Na- 
ture and  of  art,  too,  I  fancy  it  is  never  well  to 
20  305 


TEE   NIAGARA   BOOK. 

see  all.  There  should  be  something  left  to  the 
imagination  and  much  should  be  half  con- 
cealed in  mystery.  The  greatest  charm  of  a 
mountain  range  is  that  wild  feeling,  there  must 
be  something  strange,  unknown,  desolate  in 
those  far-off  valleys  beyond.  And  so  here,  at 
Niagara,  that  converging  rush  of  waters  may 
fall  down,  down  at  once  into  a  hell  of  rivers, 
for  what  the  eye  can  see.  It  is  glorious  to 
watch  them  in  their  first  curve  over  the  rocks. 
They  come  green  as  a  bank  of  emeralds;  but 
with  a  fitful  flying  color,  as  though  conscious 
that  in  one  moment  more  they  would  be 
dashed  into  spray  and  rise  into  air  pale  as 
driven  snow.  The  vapor  rises  high  into  the 
air  and  is  gathered  there,  visible  always  as  a 
permanent  white  cloud  over  the  cataract;  but 
the  bulk  of  the  spray  which  fills  the  lower  hol- 
low of  that  horseshoe  is  like  a  tumult  of  snow. 
"  This  you  will  not  fully  see  from  your  seat 
on  the  rail.  The  head  of  it  rises  ever  and  anon 
out  of  that  caldron  below,  but  the  caldron  itself 
will  be  invisible.  It  is  ever  so  far  down,  far  as 
your  own  imagination  can  sink  it.  But  your 
eyes  will  rest  full  upon  the  curve  of  the  waters. 

The  shape  you  will  be  looking  at  is  that  of  a 
306 


FAMOUS   VISITORS   AT  NIAGARA   FALLS. 

horseshoe,  but  of  a  horseshoe  miraculously 
deep  from  toe  to  heel;  and  this  depth  becomes 
greater  as  you  sit  there.  That  which  at  first 
was  only  great  and  beautiful,  becomes  gigantic 
and  sublime  till  the  mind  is  at  a  loss  to  find 
an  epithet  for  its  own  use.  To  realize  Niagara 
you  must  sit  there  'till  you  see  nothing  else 
than  that  which  you  have  come  to  see.  You 
will  hear  nothing  else  and  think  of  nothing 
else.  At  length  you  will  be  at  one  with  the 
tumbling  river  before  you.  You  will  find 
yourself  among  the  waters  as  though  you  be- 
longed to  them.  The  cool  liquid  green  will 
run  through  your  veins,  and  the  voice  of  the 
Cataract  will  be  the  expression  of  your  heart. 
You  wrill  fall,  as  the  bright  waters  fall,  rushing 
down  into  your  new  world  with  no  hesitation 
and  with  no  dismay;  and  you  will  rise  again  as 
the  spray  rises,  bright,  beautiful,  and  pure. 

"  One  of  the  great  charms  of  Niagara  con- 
sists in  this — that  over  and  above  that  one 
great  object  of  wonder  and  beauty,  there  is  so 
much  little  loveliness;  loveliness  especially  of 
water,  I  mean.  There  are  little  rivulets  run- 
ning here  and  there  over  little  falls,  with  pen- 
dant boughs  above  them,  and  stones  shining 
307 


THE   NIAGARA   BOOK. 

under  their  shallow  depths.  As  the  visitor 
stands  and  looks  through  the  trees,  the  Rapids 
glitter  before  him,  and  then  hide  themselves 
behind  islands.  They  glitter  and  sparkle  in  far 
distances  under  the  bright  foliage  till  the  re- 
membrance is  lost  and  one  knows  not  which 
way  they  run. 

"  Of  all  the  sights  in  this  earth  of  ours  which 
tourists  travel  to  see — at  least  of  all  those 
which  I  have  seen — I  am  inclined  to  give  the 
palm  to  Niagara.  I  know  no  other  one  thing 
so  beautiful,  so  glorious,  so  powerful." 

When  we  know  that  Bayard  Taylor  visited 
the  Falls  of  Niagara  we  instantly  desire  to 
know  what  impression  was  made  upon  a  mind 
which  had  contemplated  such  a  wide  range 
and  variety  as  this  great  traveller  had  seen  and 
had  elsewhere  described.  He  thus  brings  his 
poetic  imagination  to  the  contemplation: 
"  The  picturesque  shores  of  the  river,  the 
splendid  green  of  the  water,  and  the  lofty  line 
of  the  upper  plateau  in  front,  crowned  with 
Brock's  Monument,  and  divided  by  the  dark 
yawning  gorge  of  Niagara,  form  a  fitting  ves- 
tibule to  the  grand  adytum  beyond.  The 
chasm  grows  wider,  deeper,  and  more  precipi- 
308 


FAMOUS    VISITORS   AT  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

tous  with  every  mile,  until,  having  seen  the 
Suspension  Bridge  apparently  floating  in  mid- 
air on  your  right,  you  look  ahead,  and  two 
miles  off  you  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  emerald 
crest  of  Niagara,  standing  fast  and  fixed  above 
its  shifting  chaos  of  snowy  spray. 

"  I  have  seen  the  Falls  in  all  weathers  and  at 
all  seasons,  but  to  my  mind  the  winter  view 
is  most  beautiful.  I  saw  them  first  in  the  hard 
winter  of  1854,  when  a  hundred  cataracts  of 
ice  hung  from  the  cliffs  on  either  side,  when 
the  masses  of  ice  brought  down  from  Lake 
Erie  were  wedged  together  at  the  foot,  uniting 
the  shores  with  a  rugged  bridge,  and  when 
every  twig  and  every  tree  and  bush  in  Goat 
Island  was  overlaid  an  inch  deep  with  a  coat- 
ing of  solid  crystal.  The  air  was  still  and  the 
sun  shone  in  a  cloudless  sky.  The  green  of 
the  Fall,  set  in  a  landscape  of  sparkling  silver, 
was  infinitely  more  brilliant  than  in  the  sum- 
mer, when  it  is  balanced  by  the  trees,  and  the 
rainbows  were  almost  too  glorious  for  the  eye 
to  bear.  I  was  not  impressed  by  the  sub- 
limity of  the  scene  nor  even  by  its  terror,  but 
solely  by  the  fascination  of  its  wonderful 
beauty,  a  fascination  which  constantly  tempted 
309 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

me  to  plunge  into  that  sea  of  fused  emerald 
and  lose  myself  in  the  dance  of  the  rainbows. 
With  each  succeeding  visit  Niagara  has  grown 
in  height,  in  power,  in  majesty,  in  solemnity; 
but  I  have  seen  its  climax  of  beauty." 

Reference  has  been  made  in  this  writing  to 
the  remarkable  fact  that  the  greater  American 
poets  have  not  attempted  to  describe  Niagara. 
The  fact  is  easily  discernible  in  their  writings; 
but  the  cause  of  this  apparent  neglect  of  a 
theme  which  has  tempted  so  many  feebler 
singers  must  be  sought  in  the  laws  of  the  hu- 
man mind  as  affected  by  the  contact  of  that 
which  transcends  all  rhythmic  expression.  It 
would  seem  that  the  greater  the  gift  of  expres- 
sion for  the  less  overpowering  appeal  of  Na- 
ture to  the  soul,  the  more  impotent  in  this 
presence  the  poets  have  felt.  There  are  not 
wanting,  indeed,  poems  about  Niagara — there 
is  one  which  flows  like  the  river  itself,  un- 
dammed  for  forty  thousand  lines;  and  in  some 
of  these  individual  lines  there  are  perhaps  sev- 
eral lines  together  which  seem  to  catch  the 
swing  of  the  great  Cataract;  though  at  best 
they  are  a  shrill  piping  to  its  mighty  diapason; 
they  are  like  the  song  of  the  wren  on  its  banks. 
310 


FAMOUS   VISITORS  AT  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

Even  Mrs.  Sigourney's  lines  are  felt  by  her  to 
be  inadequate : 

Ah,  who  can  dare 

To  lift  the  insect-trump  of  earthly  hope, 
Or  love,  or  sorrow,  'mid  the  peal  sublime 
Of  thy  tremendous  hymn  ?     Even  Ocean  shrinks 
Back  from  thy  brotherhood  and  all  his  waves 
Retire  abashed.     For  he  doth  sometimes  seem 
To  sleep  like  a  spent  laborer  and  recall 
His  wearied  billows  from  their  vexing  play, 
And  lull  them  to  a  cradle  calm  ;  but  thou 
With  everlasting,  undecaying  tide. 
Dost  rest  not,  night  or  day." 

"  Thou  dost  make  the  soul 
A  wondering  witness  of  thy  majesty, 
And  as  it  presses  with  delirious  joy 
To  pierce  thy  vestibule,  dost  chain  its  step, 
And  tame  its  rapture  with  a  humbling  view 
Of  its  own  nothingness,  bidding  it  stand 
In  the  dread  presence  of  the  Invisible, 
As  if  to  answer  to  its  God  through  thee." 

These  are  perhaps  the  best  of  the  lines 
written  by  Mrs.  Sigourney;  but  their  inade- 
quacy is  felt  by  any  one  who  compares  them 
with  a  moment's  recollection  of  his  own  feel- 
ings in  the  presence  they  attempt  to  describe. 

3" 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

The  lines  of  Lord  Morpeth  are  well  known ; 
they  seem  most  memorable  for  the  sincere  ex- 
pression of  that  good  will  which  he  hoped 
might  ever  subsist  between  the  nations,  his 
own  and  America : 

"  Oh!  may  thy  waves  which  madden  in  thy  deep 
There  spend  their  rage   nor  climb  the  encircling 

steep ; 

And  till  the  conflict  of  thy  surges  cease 
The  nations  on  thy  banks  repose  in  peace." 

There  seems  to  be  a  widespread  conviction 
that  the  oft-quoted  lines  of  John  G.  C.  Brain- 
ard  are  "  the  noblest  lines  inspired  by  the  great 
Cataract."  They  are  notable  as  rising  in  the 
mind  of  a  New  England  editor  who  had  never 
seen  the  Falls,  and  are  said  to  have  been  the 
work  of  a  few  moments — an  improvisation : 

"  The  thoughts  are  strange  that  crowd  into  my  brain 
While  I  look  upward  to  thee.     It  would  seem 
As  if  God  poured  thee  from  '  His  hollow  hand  ' 
And  hung  his  bow  upon  thine  awful  front, 
And  spoke  in  that  loud  voice  which  seemed  to  him 
Who  dwelt  in  Patmos  for  his  Savior's  sake 
'  The  sound  of  many  waters '  and  had  bade 
Thy  flood  to  chronicle  the  ages  back, 
And  notch  his  cent'ries  in  the  eternal  rock. 
312 


FAMOUS   VISITORS  AT  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

• 

"  Deep  calleth  unto  deep.     And  what  are  we 
That  hear  the  question  of  that  voice  sublime  ? 
Oh  !     What  are  all  the  notes  that  ever  rung 
From  war's  vain  trumpet  by  thy  thundering  side  ! 
Yea,  what  is  all  the  riot  man  can  make 
In  his  short  life  to  thy  unceasing  roar  ! 
And  yet  bold  babbler,  what  art  thou  to  Him 
Who  drowned  a  world  and  heaped  the  waters  far 
Above  its  loftiest  mountains  ? — a  light  wave 
That  breaks  and  whispers  of  its  Maker's  might." 

There  are  many  other  expressions  of  those 
who  from  all  parts  of  the  world  have  matched 
the  feebleness  of  speech  against  the  stress  of 
feeling;  but  we  forbear  to  quote  further.  The 
extracts  given  above  will  prove  sufficient  for 
their  purpose  if  they  constitute  a  pleasure  to 
the  receptive  mind,  susceptible  to  the  influ- 
ences of  the  scene  they  visit,  and  if  they  prove 
a  gentle  warning  to  the  too  eager  expression 
of  words  which  so  often  hide  rather  than  reveal 
thought. 


313 


THE   NIAGARA   BOOK. 

PART  III. 

BUFFALO   AND   THE   PAN-AMERICAN 
EXPOSITION. 


PLAN   OF   THE   CITY    OF    BUFFALO. 


PART  III. 

A    FEW     PAGES     ABOUT 
BUFFALO. 

ALL  visitors  to  Niagara  Falls  during  the  summer  of 
1901  will  wish  also  to  see  something  of  Buffalo,  and  of 
the  Pan-American  Exposition.  The  following  pages 
give  some  brief  general  information,  and  mention  a 
few  of  the  things  in  Buffalo  which  a  visitor  will  find 
most  interesting,  in  different  lines. 

FOR  ONE  DAY  IN  BUFFALO. 

In  the  morning  see  the  manuscripts  in  the  Buffalo 
Library,  back  of  the  Soldiers'  Monument,  on  Main 
Street,  opposite  Court  Street ;  then  down  Main  Street 
two  blocks  to  the  Erie  County  Savings  Bank  building  ; 
up  Niagara  Street  one  block  to  the  D.  S.  Morgan  build- 
ing, for  the  view  from  the  roof ;  along  Niagara  Street 
one  block  to  Franklin  Street,  then  one  block  to  the 
left  to  the  City  Hall  (exterior  only),  and  to  the  left  again 
along  Church  Street  past  the  Prudential  building  to  St. 
Paul's  Cathedral,  seeing  the  interior  (Erie  Street  en- 
trance always  open).  Down  Main  Street  again,  a  few 
steps,  to  the  great  Ellicott  Square  building,  with  its 
central  court.  One  block  back  of  the  Ellicott  Square 
building  is  the  new  post  office,  the  tower  of  which  may 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

be  well  seen  from  the  further  Ellicott  Square  entrance. 
Then  take  car  to  the  foot  of  Main  Street,  and  take  a 
small  boat  "up  the  creek  and  back"  to  see  the  com- 
merce of  Buffalo.  Stop  somewhere,  if  possible,  and  go 
on  board  a  vessel  unloading  grain. 

In  the  afternoon  drive  "to  the  Front  and  around  the 
Park."  When  approaching  the  Park  tell  the  driver  you 
wish  to  see  the  Crematory  and  the  Red  Jacket  Monu- 
ment. Or  take  one  of  the  wagonette  or  automobile 
lines  and  ride  up  Delaware  Avenue  from  Niagara 
Square  to  the  Exposition  Grounds. 

THE  CITY  OF  BUFFALO. 

The  city  of  Buffalo  has,  by  the  census  of  1900,  a  pop- 
ulation of  352,387,  standing  eighth  among  the  cities  of 
the  United  States.  It  leads  the  world  in  its  commerce 
in  flour,  wheat,  coal,  fresh  fish,  and  sheep,  and  stands 
second  only  to  Chicago  in  lumber.  In  cattle  and  in 
hogs,  only  Chicago  and  Kansas  City  exceed  it.  It  is  a 
centre  for  lithographing  and  railroad  printing,  and  also 
for  beer  breweries,  lard  refining,  meat  packing,  soap 
and  starch.  Its  railroad  yard  facilities  are  the  greatest 
in  the  world,  and  are  being  increased  rapidly.  The 
new  steel  plant  at  Stony  Point  has  a  capital  of  over 
twenty  million  dollars,  and  has  already  expended 
$1,500,000  for  its  land.  In  marine  commerce,  although 
the  season  is  limited  to  six  months,  Buffalo  is  exceeded 
in  tonnage  only  by  London,  Liverpool,  Hamburg,  New 
York,  and  Chicago. 

Better  still,  it  is  a  city  of  homes.  Strangers  view 
with  delight  its  shaded  streets  and  spacious  lawns, 
alike  in  the  most  and  least  fashionable  quarters  of  the 
318 


A  FEW  PAGES  ABOUT  BUFFALO. 

city.  Block  houses  are  few  and  far  between,  and 
through  wise  preventive  measures  the  more  serious 
tenement-house  evils  have  never  been  allowed  to  de- 
velop. The  climate  in  summer  is  delightful,  and  it 
is  one  of  the  healthiest  cities  in  the  country,  with  a 
limitless  supply  of  pure  water.  It  has  one  of  the  first 
free  municipal  bath  houses  in  existence ;  the  Paris 
Exposition  of  1900  has  pronounced  its  cre*che  the 
best  managed  in  the  world,  and  its  new  Albright  Art 
Gallery  will  be  unrivalled  for  its  purposes.  It  has  more 
miles  of  asphalt  pavement  than  any  other  city,  and  is  a 
paradise  for  bicyclers,  who  may  be  seen  on  its  streets 
almost  every  day  in  the  year.  Socially  it  combines  the 
cordiality  of  the  West  with  the  conservatism  of  the  East, 
and  in  few  large  cities  does  money  play  so  slight  a  part 
in  social  demarcations.  Coal  and  food  supplies  are  so 
low  in  price  that  it  is  one  of  the  cheapest  of  the  large 
cities  in  which  to  live.  Although  the  city  and  surround- 
ing country  are  very  flat,  with  little  of  the  picturesque, 
it  has  a  beautiful  series  of  parks  in  which  to  drive,  the 
shores  of  Lake  Erie  and  of  the  Niagara  River  are  ac- 
cessible after  leaving  the  immediate  suburbs,  and 
Niagara  Falls  is  but  twenty  miles  away. 

A  general  view  of  the  topography  of  the  city  and 
harbor  may  be  had  from  the  roof  of  the  D.  S.  Morgan 
Building,  Niagara  and  Pearl  streets,  or  from  the  roof 
of  the  Lenox,  on  North  Street,  near  Delaware. 

BUFFALO  RIVER  AND  HARBOR. 

The  visitor  should  on  no  account  fail  to  see  some- 
thing of  the  commerce  of  Buffalo,  its  elevators  and  coal 
trestles,  and  he  will  be  amazed  at  the  muddy  little  stream 
319 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

the  commerce  of  which,  though  restricted  to  the  six 
months  of  the  navigation  season,  is  exceeded,  as  stated 
above,  in  this  country  only  by  New  York  and  Chicago, 
and  abroad  only  by  London,  Liverpool,  and  Hamburg. 
The  season's  commerce  of  Buffalo  in  flour,  grain  and 
coal  alone  equals  ten  per  cent,  of  the  yearly  foreign 
trade  of  the  entire  United  States. 

Buffalo  has  thirty-two  elevators  in  addition  to  floating 
or  transfer  elevators.  It  is  exceedingly  interesting  to 
watch  the  steam  shovels  unloading  a  cargo  of  grain, 
and  their  rapidity  is  marvellous,  sometimes  reaching 
25,000  bushels  per  hour.  A  steamer  has  entered  port 
at  9.20  A.M.,  discharged  77,000  bushels  of  wheat,  taken 
on  2,300  tons  of  coal,  and  been  ready  to  sail  at  7  P.M. 

The  coal  trestles  on  the  Buffalo  River  and  Harbor 
are  the  largest  in  the  world,  one  of  the  Lackawanna 
Railroad  exceeding  a  mile  in  length. 

The  shipping  facilities  of  Buffalo  may  be  seen  most 
easily  by  taking  one  of  the  small  boats  at  the  foot  of 
Main  Street,  and  going  "  up  the  creek  "  and  back. 

ERIE  CANAL. 

This  canal,  said  to  be  the  largest  in  existence  except- 
ing one  in  China,  extends  348  miles,  from  Buffalo  to 
Albany,  and  was  completed  in  1825,  at  an  original  cost 
of  $9,000,000,  being  put  through,  with  great  ridicule 
and  opposition,  by  Governor  De  Witt  Clinton,  and  being 
nicknamed  "Clinton's  Big  Ditch."  It  quickly  paid  for 
itself  in  tolls,  and  at  once  reduced  the  cost  of  getting 
a  barrel  of  flour  from  Buffalo  to  Albany,  from  ten 
dollars  in  three  weeks'  time,  to  thirty  cents  and  one 
week's  time.  Before  the  completion  of  the  New  York 
320 


A  FEW  PAGES  ABOUT  BUFFALO. 

Central  Railroad  it  carried  thousands  of  passengers  and 
emigrants  ;  it  now  carries  freight  only.  It  has  fifteen 
single  locks  and  fifty-seven  double,  the  working  of 
which  may  be  seen  most  effectively  at  Lockport,  twenty- 
five  miles  from  Buffalo. 

The  canal  may  be  seen  most  pleasantly  in  a  drive  to 
the  Front;  most  easily  upon  Main  Street,  a  block  below 
the  New  York  Central  Railroad  station;  and  most  effec- 
tively by  going  a  short  distance  down  Erie  Street,  as 
far  as  the  Grand  Trunk  station,  or  by  taking  a  Belt 
line  train  between  the  Exposition  Grounds  and  the 
main  New  York  Central  station. 

ARCHITECTURAL  FEATURES. 

Among  public  buildings  those  best  worth  seeing  arch- 
itecturally are  the  new  Post  Office,  Washington  and 
Swan  Streets  ;  the  City  Hall,  Delaware  Avenue  and 
Eagle ;  the  74th  Regiment  Armory  (Lansing),  Niagara 
and  Prospect  Streets,  and  the  Buffalo  State  Insane 
Asylum  (Richardson),  immediately  southwest  of  the 
Exposition  Grounds. 

In  banks,  office  buildings,  etc.,  the  Buffalo  Savings 
Bank  (Green  &  Wicks),  at  the  corner  of  Main  and 
Genesee  Streets  ;  the  small  Bank  of  Commerce  (Green 
&  Wicks),  Main  Street,  below  Seneca ;  the  great 
Ellicott  Square  Building  (Burnham),  said  to  be  the 
largest  office  building  in  the  world,  with  600  offices,  40 
stores  and  16  counting  rooms  ;  the  Erie  County  Savings 
Bank  Building  (Post),  Main  and  Erie  Streets,  and  the 
Prudential  Building  (Adler  &  Sullivan,  Chicago),  Pearl 
and  Church  Streets,  the  most  handsomely  finished 
office  building  in  Buffalo.  The  Medical  School  of  the 
21  321 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

University  of  Buffalo  (George  Gary),  on  High  Street, 
a  little  to  the  east  of  Main  Street,  is  a  handsome  and  a 
well-equipped  building.  The  Buffalo  General  Hospital 
is  a  short  distance  farther  down  the  same  street. 

Among  private  residences  may  be  mentioned  the  four 
houses  by  McKim,  Mead  &  White,  three  at  the  north- 
west and  one  at  the  southwest  corner  of  Delaware  and 
North  Streets  ;  the  house  of  Truman  G.  Avery  (New- 
comb,  Boston),  on  the  Circle  ;  the  house  and  stable  of 
William  Hamlin  (Marling  &  Burdett,  Buffalo),  1058 
Delaware  Avenue,  and  that  of  George  V.  Forman 
(Green  &  Wicks),  Delaware  Avenue.  Richardson  has 
two  houses  in  Buffalo — of  W.  H.  Gratwick,  776  Dela- 
ware Avenue,  and  George  Bleistein,  438  Delaware 
Avenue. 

Churches,  the  Crematory,  the  Red  Jacket  Monument, 
etc.,  are  mentioned  under  separate  headings.  A  drive 
up  Delaware  Avenue  from  the  Terrace  to  Ferry  Street, 
with  a  digression  down  North  Street  and  around  the 
Circle,  will  show  the  best  of  the  private  architecture  of 

Buffalo. 

CHURCHES. 

Buffalo  has  some  200  churches.  Those  noted  below 
as  most  desirable  for  a  visitor  to  see  are  selected  mainly 
for  architectural  reasons. 

S/.  Paul's  Cathedral. — The  cathedral  church  of  the 
Episcopal  diocese  of  western  New  York.  It  was  built 
in  1850,  of  brown  sandstone,  and  its  beautiful  spire  rises 
to  a  height  of  268  feet.  It  stands  in  the  heart  of  the 
business  district,  at  the  corner  of  Main  and  Erie  Streets. 
The  interior  is  well  worth  seeing,  and  the  side  entrance, 
on  Erie  Street,  is  always  open. 
322 


A   FEW  PAGES   ABOUT  BUFFALO. 

Temple  Beth  Zion. — On  Delaware  Avenue,  between 
North  and  Allen  Streets,  and  adjacent  to  the  Twentieth 
Century  Club.  Built  in  1890,  the  architects  being 
Edward  A.  and  William  W.  Kent,  of  Buffalo.  It  is  of 
Medina  brown  sandstone,  of  Byzantine  architecture  with 
Romanesque  features.  The  interior  decoration  of  the 
great  dome  is  unusual  and  very  effective.  Of  especial 
interest  is  a  tablet  from  the  St.  Paul's  Episcopal  congre- 
gation, in  commemoration  of  their  use  in  1888  of  the  for- 
mer Beth  Zion  Synagogue,  at  a  time  when  the  Episco- 
pal cathedral  could  not  be  used,  through  an  explosion  of 
natural  gas.  Another  similar  tablet  is  from  the  Delaware 
Avenue  Baptist  Societj'.  Services  are  held  in  the  Syn- 
agogue on  Saturdays  at  10  A.M.  and  on  Fridays  at  7.30 
P.M.,  to  which  the  public  are  welcome. 

First  Presbyterian  Church. — On  "The  Circle,"  where 
North  Street  changes  to  Porter  Avenue.  Built  in  1890, 
of  Medina  sandstone,  the  architects  being  Green  & 
Wicks,  of  Buffalo.  The  high  campanile  is  a  landmark 
from  long  distances.  The  interior  also  is  well  worth 
seeing. 

St.  Louis'  Catholic  Church  (French  and  German). — 
At  the  corner  of  Main  and  Edward  Streets.  Its  spire  is 
especially  worthy  attention. 

St.  Joseph's  Cathedral. — Far  down  town,  at  the 
corner  of  Franklin  and  Swan  Streets.  It  has  a  carillon 
of  forty-three  bells,  but  a  small  portion  of  which  are  in 
use. 

Delaware  Avenue  Baptist  Church. — On  Delaware 
Avenue,  between  Bryant  and  Utica  Streets.  Erected  in 
1894  at  a  cost  of  some  $200.000.  The  interior  is  mag- 
nificent. 

323 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

5/.  Andrew's  Episcopal  Church. — Far  over  on  the 
East  Side,  on  Goodell  Street,  near  Michigan.  Notable 
for  the  extreme  simplicity,  severity  and  inexpensiveness 
of  its  construction,  and  for  its  very  high  church  services. 

BUFFALO  LIBRARY. 

Centrally  located,  adjoining  the  little  park  in  which 
stands  the  Soldiers'  Monument,  on  Main  Street,  between 
Lafayette  and  Clinton.  The  library  was  started  in  1836, 
the  present  building  being  erected  in  1887.  It  was  taken 
by  the  city  as  a  free  ^public  library  in  1897,  and  is  notable 
for  the  enormous  popular  use  which  has  developed 
since  that  date.  Its  cards  are  held  by  65,703  citizens 
of  Buffalo,  and  the  number  of  books  circulated  in  1900 
was  981,235.  Although  this  total  is  exceeded  by  several 
libraries  in  this  country,  it  is  stated  that  in  no  other 
single  building  in  the  world  is  there  so  large  a  number  of 
books  given  out  per  annum.  A  feature  of  the  library 
is  the  open  shelf  room,  in  which  over  19,000  carefully 
selected  volumes  are  thrown  open  to  full  access  and 
withdrawal  by  the  public.  The  children's  room,  on  the 
second  floor,  is  always  interesting,  but  has  no  especially 
distinctive  features. 

On  the  main  floor  of  the  library  is  a  remarkably  fine 
collection  of  original  manuscripts,  by  far  the  largest 
and  most  valuable  in  this  country,  excellently  arranged 
under  glass  for  inspection  by  visitors.  They  range  in 
date  from  Melanchthon  and  Bacon  to  Emerson's  Repre- 
sentative Men  (entire)  and  Mark  Twain's  Huckleberry 
Finn.  One  letter  is  from  George  Ticknor,  introducing 
at  length  Charles  Sumner  to  the  poet  Southey.  Another 
is  from  John  Bright  to  Theodore  Tilton.  Other  names, 
324 


A  FEW  PAGES  ABOUT  BUFFALO. 

selected  almost  at  random,  are  Miss  Alcott,  Aldrich,  Bal- 
zac, Beaconsfield,  Beranger,  Blake,  Charlotte  Bronte ; 
interesting  unpublished  letters  from  Robert  Browning 
and  Mrs.  Browning,  Bryant,  Burke,  Burns,  Aaron  Burr, 
Carlyle,  Clay,  Cleveland,  Coleridge,  Cooper,  Cowper, 
Jefferson  Davis,  Dickens,  Dryden,  Dumas,  George  Eliot, 
Benjamin  Franklin,  Gladstone,  Grant,  Thomas  Gray, 
Greeley,  Bret  Harte,  Hawthorne,  Heine,  Hogg,  Holmes, 
Hood,  Howells,  Hugo,  Washington  Irving,  Sam  John- 
son, Keats,  Lamartine,  Lamb,  Lincoln,  Longfellow, 
Lowell,  Lytton,  Cardinal  Newman,  Macaulay,  Poe, 
Pope,  Reade,  Richter,  Rossetti,  Rousseau,  Ruskin, 
Scott,  Shelley,  Southey,  Tennyson,  Thoreau,  Trollope, 
Voltaire,  Washington,  Webster,  Whitman,  Whittier, 
Wordsworth,  etc.  They  are  in  no  case  autographs 
only,  though  some  are  of  but  a  few  lines. 

The  library  is   open  on  Sundays  from  n  A.M.  tog 

P.M. 

In  the  same  building  are  the  ACADEMY  OF  NATURAL 
SCIENCE,  the  BUFFALO  HISTORICAL  SOCIETY,  which 
after  1901  will  occupy  the  marble  New  York  State 
building  of  the  Pan-American  Exposition,  and  the 
ACADEMY  OF  FINE  ARTS.  All  are  free  to  the  public. 
The  Fine  Arts  Academy  has  some  excellent  pictures, 
a  notable  collection  of  etchings  and,  a  good  collection 
of  casts.  After  1901  it  will  be  housed  in  the  magnifi- 
cent Albright  Art  Gallery. 

GROSVENOR  LIBRARY. 

A  pleasant  and  quiet  reference  library  of  some  50,000 
volumes,  at  the  corner  of  Franklin  and  Edward  Streets. 
Not  open  evenings. 

325 


THE   NIAGARA  BOOK. 

Mr.  R.  B.  Adam  has  a  noteworthy  private  library  per- 
taining to  Johnson  and  Burns,  and  in  lesser  degree  to 
Ruskin,  which  he  is  usually  very  glad  to  show  to  those 
especially  interested. 

WASHINGTON  MARKET. 

Those  unfamiliar  with  city  market  stalls  of  this  nature 
will  find  this  quite  unique.  It  is  on  Chippewa  Street, 
but  a  block  to  the  east  of  Main,  and  is  open  on  Tues- 
days, Thursdays,  and  Saturdays,  the  latter  being  the 
better  day  to  choose.  The  little  stalls,  the  carts,  the 
bustling  market  women,  all  have  a  curiously  foreign 
appearance.  The  Elk  Street  Market,  at  Elk,  Perry,  and 
Market  Streets,  is  still  larger,  but  less  accessible. 

WADING  POND,  HUMBOLDT  PARK. 

This  is  a  shallow  pool  of  water  550  feet  in  diameter, 
with  stone  coping  and  sandy  bottom,  sloping  gradually 
to  a  depth  of  only  three  feet  at  the  centre.  On  pleasant 
afternoons  or  holidays,  it  is  filled  with  wading  children, 
some  pushing  baby  carriages,  and  is  a  most  picturesque 
and  interesting  sight.  Its  distances,  great  in  them- 
selves, seem  still  more  enormous  to  children,  and  they 
get  great  pleasure  from  it,  and  from  the  general  excite- 
ment of  the  place.  The  park  has  other  attractive  fea- 
tures, in  fountains,  aquatic  plants,  etc.  It  is  about  two 
miles  from  the  centre  of  the  city,  and  may  be  reached 
by  the  Genesee  Street  and  Best  Street  cars. 

FOREST  LAWN  CEMETERY. 

An  attractive  spot,  covering  267  acres  of  forest,  lawn, 
and  stream.     It  is  immediately  adjacent  to  the   Park 
326 


A  FEW  PAGES   ABOUT  BUFFALO. 

Meadow  and  to  the  Pan-American  Exposition  grounds. 
The  visitor  should  see,  and  can  hardly  fail  to  see,  the 
statue  of  Red  Jacket,  erected  by  the  Buffalo  Historical 
Society  to  the  memory  ot  the  last  chief  of  the  once  pow- 
erful Seneca  tribe.  The  monument  should  properly 
have  been  placed  in  the  heart  of  the  busy  city,  which 
would  have  given  greatly  added  force  to  the  inscription 
on  the  base,  the  words  of  Red  Jacket  himself  : 

c<  When  I  am  gone,  and  my  warnings  are  no  longer  heeded, 
the  craft  and  avarice  of  the  white  man  will  prevail.  My  heart 
fails  me  when  I  think  of  my  people  so  soon  to  be  scattered 
and  forgotten." 

Near-by  is  the  Blocher  Monument,  which  Baedeker  de- 
scribes as  "a  piece  of  crude  realism  having  strong 
local  admirers."  It  shows,  under  a  glass  canopy,  a 
young  man  upon  his  deathbed,  with  the  father  and 
mother,  in  life  size,  on  either  side,  and  an  angel  hover- 
ing above.  The  monument  to  Francis  W.  Tracy,  by 
Augustus  St.  Gaudens,  is  very  simple,  and  is  not  apt  to 
be  found  by  the  visitor  unless  by  special  inquiry. 

CREMATORY. 

This  beautiful  little  building,  of  brown  sandstone  cov- 
ered with  English  ivy,  is  on  Forest  Avenue,  opposite 
the  Forest  Lawn  Cemetery,  and  not  far  from  the  Pan- 
American  grounds.  It  was  built  in  1885,  the  first  cre- 
mation taking  place  that  year.  Its  use  is  now  suffi- 
ciently common  to  excite  little  or  no  comment.  It 
contains  a  chapel  for  funeral  services.  Visitors  are  not 
allowed  to  see  the  process  of  incineration,  but  the 
method  used  is  clearly  explained  and  shown. 
327 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

CLUBS. 

The  chief  social  clubs  of  the  city  are  as  follows  : 

Buffalo  Club. — This  is  the  representative  club  of  the 
city,  having  over  400  members.  It  has  a  handsome 
club-house,  at  the  corner  of  Delaware  Avenue  and 
Trinity  Place,  which  is  especially  noticeable  for  its  beau- 
tiful natatorium  and  billiard  room. 

Saturn  Club. — A  smaller  and  more  exclusiv^  club,  at 
the  corner  of  Delaware  Avenue  and  Edward  Street. 
The  club  is  chiefly  noted  for  its  "no  treating"  rule, 
and  for  the  unique  and  original  nature  of  many  of  its 
entertainments  and  accessories.  At  one  end  of  the 
large  lounging  hall  is  the  motto,  in  wrought  iron  letters, 
from  Izaak  Walton's  "Complete  Angler,"  "  Good  Com- 
pany and  Good  Discourse  are  the  very  Sinews  of  Vir- 
tue," while  at  the  other  end  of  the  hall,  over  the  win- 
dows, in  much  smaller  letters,  is  written,  "  Here  the 
women  cease  from  troubling  and  the  wicked  are  at  rest." 
The  chief  points  of  interest  in  the  building  are  the  large 
hall,  running  up  through  the  two  stories,  with  leaded 
glass  windows  opening  into  the  library  and  corridors 
above,  the  handsome  and  well-equipped  •  library  on 
the  Delaware  Avenue  front,  the  cafe",  with  its  unique 
inscriptions,  and  the  St.  Patrick's  Room  in  the  base- 
ment. 

University  Club. — A  pleasant  club  mainly  of  the 
younger  college  men,  started  in  1894,  and  at  present 
occupying  a  former  residence  of  the  Hon.  Wilson  S. 
Bissell,  295  Delaware  Avenue,  between  Chippewa  and 
Tupper  Streets. 

Twentieth  Century  Club. — A  woman's  club,  with  a 
328 


A  FEW  PAGE 8  ABOUT  BUFFALO. 

very  beautiful  club  house  on  Delaware  Avenue,  below 
North  Street.  The  club  house  is  rarely  open  evenings, 
but  is  much  used  through  the  day.  It  has  a  good  li- 
brary and  reading  room,  music  room,  main  court,  and 
a  concert  hall  which  is  often  rented  for  entertainments. 
Its  decorations  and  furnishings  are  artistic  and  quite 
unique. 

Country  Club. — Of  the  usual  nature,  purposes  and 
membership  of  country  clubs.  The  club  was  incor- 
porated in  1889,  and  occupied  the  house  which  is  now 
the  headquarters  of  the  Board  of  Women  Managers,  at 
the  Pan-American  Exposition.  They  had  good  stables, 
some  twenty  acres  of  land,  and  the  use  of  the  park 
lands  adjoining  for  polo  and  for  golf.  The  site  selected 
for  the  Pan-American  included  all  the  ground  rented 
by  the  Country  Club,  and  it  was  obliged  to  take  tem- 
porary quarters  on  Amherst  Street,  farther  to  the  east. 
The  club  has  an  excellent  membership,  and  its  horse 
shows  and  contests  are  largely  attended. 

Ellicott  Club. — This  is  a  men's  lunching  club,  organ- 
ized in  1895,  with  large  and  very  handsome  rooms  on 
the  tenth  floor  of  the  Ellicott  Square  Building.  Its  main 
dining  hall  is  much  in  use  for  large  dinners,  dances, 
etc.  Separate  rooms  are  provided  for  women,  or  for 
members  accompanied  by  women.  The  club  has  been 
very  successful. 

Admission  to  all  these  club  houses  is,  of  course, 
possible  only  through  a  card  from  one  of  their  mem- 
bers. 

FRESH  AIR  MISSION. 

The  Fresh  Air  Mission  Hospital,  for  sick  babies,  is  a 
most  attractive  building,  admirably  located  on  the  beach 
329 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

of  Lake  Erie,  at  Athol  Springs,  ten  miles  from  Buffalo, 
and  may  be  reached  either  by  the  Pennsylvania  or  the 
Lake  Shore  Railroad.  The  return  trip  may  easily  be 
made  in  a  morning  or  afternoon.  The  hospital  is  within 
easy  walking  distance  from  the  station. 

The  Fresh  Air  Mission  proper,  at  Cradle  Beach, 
is  thirteen  miles  farther  out  on  the  same  railroads,  the 
nearest  station  being  Angola,  from  which  there  is  a 
drive  of  two  miles.  This  also  is  admirably  situated,  and 
has  attractive  buildings  excellently  adapted  for  their 
purposes. 

The  little  Cradle  Banks,  which  are  conspicuous  every 
summer  throughout  Buffalo,  take  in  upwards  of  $1,000 
every  year,  (last  summer  it  was  over  $3,000)  in  small 
sums.  It  is  hoped  that  this  summer  their  receipts  may 
be  greatly  increased.  The  society  has  no  endowed 
fund. 

FIRE  TUGS. 

Those  coming  from  inland  cities  will  be  interested  in 
Buffalo's  fire-tugs,  a  valuable  safeguard  for  the  city's 
extensive  river  and  harbor  property. 

PRESIDENTS  CLEVELAND  AND  FILLMORE. 

There  have  been  two  Buffalo  presidents.  Those  in- 
terested may  see  the  old  law  office  of  President  Cleveland 
in  the  Weed  Block,  at  the  corner  of  Main  and  Swan 
Streets  ;  while  the  home  of  President  Fillmore  is  now  a 
large  boarding-house,  or  almost  hotel,  "The  Fillmore 
House,"  on  Niagara  Square,  at  the  corner  of  Delaware 
Avenue  and  Genesee  Street.  The  house  has  been  con- 
siderably added  to. 

330 


iagara  University 


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NIAGARA    FALLS   AND    VICINITY. 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

HOTELS  AND  BOARDING  HOUSES. 

The  Hotel  Iroquois  is  one  of  the  best  hotels  in  the 
United  States,  and  its  cafe"  is  not  approached  in  cuisine 
by  any  other  hotel  or  restaurant  in  Buffalo.  Its  billiard 
rooms  and  bar  are  costly  and  magnificent.  It  is, 
however,  in  the  business  portion  of  the  town.  The 
Lenox  is  a  large  apartment  house  and  hotel  of  the  finest 
type,  and  in  the  most  fashionable  residence  portion  of 
the  city,  being  on  North  Street,  just  west  of  Delaware 
Avenue.  The  view  from  the  roof  is  well  worth  seeing. 
The  Niagara  Hotel  is  delightfully  located  at  the  Front, 
opposite  Prospect  Park.  If  the  management  in  1901  is 
as  good  as  it  promises  to  be,  it  will  be  a  delightful 
place  at  which  to  stay.  The  Genesee,  New  Tifft,  Broe- 
zel  and  Mansion  House  are  all  good  hotels.  Statler^s 
Hotel  and  the  Park  Hotel  are  new  and  temporary  struc- 
tures, adjacent  to  the  Pan-American  grounds.  The 
Statler  Hotel  has  the  better  location,  but  is  much 
larger,  having  accommodations  for  5,000  people.  It  is 
of  two  stories  only.  A  large  number  of  apartment 
houses  and  some  business  blocks  have  been  turned  into 
hotels  for  the  Pan-American  year. 

There  are  many  good  boarding  houses  in  Buffalo. 
Pan-American  visitors  desiring  accommodations  in 
them,  or  in  good  private  houses,  would  best  write  to 
the  Bureau  of  Information  of  the  Pan-American  Exposi- 
tion, which  will  furnish  them  full  and  prompt  informa- 
tion, with  prices. 

THEATRES. 

The  only  thoroughly  first-class  theatre  in  Buffalo  at 
present  is  the  Star.    The  Teck  Theatre  has  a  stock  com- 
332 


A  FEW  PAGE 8  ABOUT  BUFFALO. 

pany,  and  usually  presents  melodramas  of  the  better 
grade.  It  is  an  excellent  and  very  comfortable  theatre, 
with  low  prices.  Shea's  Theatre  is  a  large  variety  hall, 
of  the  best  of  its  kind,  with  clean  shows  and  very  large 
audiences.  The  Lyceum  Theatre  is  a  good  low-priced 
theatre.  The  Court  Street  is  a  low-priced  house,  with 
entertainments  mainly  of  the  variety  order,  and  adapted 
mainly  for  male  audiences. 

NEWSPAPERS. 

The  "  Buffalo  Morning  Express  "  (one  cent)  and  the 
"Buffalo  Commercial" — an  afternoon  paper,  and  the 
only  two-cent  daily  paper  now  published  in  Buffalo — 
are  the  daily  papers  of  highest  grade.  The  evening 
"  News  "  (one  cent)  is  an  excellent  paper,  as  are  also 
the  evening  "  Times"  and  "  Enquirer,"  and  the  morning 
"Courier"  and  "  Review."  There  are  three  good  daily 
papers  in  German,  and  one  in  Polish.  The  Sunday  edi- 
tions are  all  five  cents. 

INFORMATION  FOR  SHOPPING. 

Flint  &  Kent,  554  Main  Street,  carry  the  highest  grade 
of  stock  in  general  dry  goods,  and  next  to  them  come 
the  Adam,  Meldrum  &  Anderson  Company,  404  Main 
Street,  a  much  larger  general  department  store.  J.  N. 
Adam  &  Company,  directly  opposite,  at  389  Main  Street, 
and  the  William  Hengerer  Company,  at  256  Main 
Street,  are  other  very  large  department  stores,  of  the 
highest  standing,  and  with  a  somewhat  cheaper  gen- 
eral line  of  goods.  T.  E.  Dickinson  &  Co.,  254  Main 
Street,  stand  easily  first  in  jewelry,  silver,  etc.  T. 
C.  Tanke,  and  King  &  Eisele,  are  other  good  stores  in 
333 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

this  line.  In  crockery  and  glass,  Walbridge  &  Co.,  392 
Main  Street,  have  the  largest  and  best  assortment, 
though  Irwin  R.  Brayton,  692  Main  Street,  has  a  better 
stock  in  the  choicest  grades.  For  men's  furnishings 
of  high  grade,  the  best  stores  are  :  W.  C.  Humburch, 
329  Main  Street  ;  Kinne  &  Kinne  Company,  357  Main 
Street,  and  Flint  &  Kent,  554  Main  Street.  Among  the 
better  book  stores  are  :  Peter  Paul  &  Co.,  448  Main 
Street ;  Otto  Ulbrich,  386  Main  Street  ;  H.  H.  Otis  & 
Sons,  284  Main  Street,  and  the  larger  dry-goods  stores. 
For  flowers  may  be  mentioned  :  Palmer,  Rebstock, 
Zimmerman,  Scott,  Anderson,  etc.  For  carriages,  C. 
W.  Miller  is  so  very  much  the  largest  establishment 
that  he  alone  can  be  mentioned  here,  though  some  of 
the  smaller  concerns  are  equally  good  ;  automobiles 
may  be  obtained  at  low  rates  from  the  Woods  Motor 
Vehicle  Company;  the  "Automobile  Station,  No.  I," 
and,  from  J.  L.  Langdon  (Locomobiles).  Practically 
the  only  baggage  delivery  is  that  of  C.  W.  Miller,  8 
East  Eagle  Street.  On  presentation  of  railroad  tickets 
he  will  check  baggage  direct  from  the  house  to  destina- 
tion, and  for  a  slight  extra  charge  will  include  delivery 
at  house  at  destination.  The  best  candy  stores  are 
Huyler's,  Gager's,  and  Faxon,  Williams  &  Faxon. 

Almost  all  the  retail  stores  of  importance  are  on  Main 
Street,  between  Seneca  and  Tupper.  There  are,  of 
course,  many  good  stores  in  Buffalo  in  addition  to  the 
few  which  we  have  mentioned  here. 

DOCTORS. 

The  surgeons  and  physicians  in  these  lists  are  all  of 
high  professional  standing  and  reputation,  and  except 
334 


A  FEW  PAGES  ABOUT  BUFFALO. 

in  the  list  of  dentists  only  those  are  included  who  are 
on  the  staff  of  some  one  of  the  leading  hospitals.  There 
are  many  other  excelent  doctors  in  Buffalo,  but  it  seems 
well  for  the  purpose  of  this  book,  to  make  this  distinction. 
Those  whose  names  are  printed  in  italics  are  homeop- 
athists. 

General  Physicians. — Henry  R.  Hopkins,  444  Frank- 
lin Street ;  C.  C.  Wyckoff,  482  Delaware  Avenue ; 
Charles  Gary,  340  Delaware  Avenue  ;  Charles  G.  Stock- 
ton, 436  Franklin  Street;  John  Parmenter,  519  Frank- 
lin Street ;  DeLancey  Rochester,  469  Franklin  Street ; 
John  H.  Pryor,  56  Allen  Street ;  B.  J.  Maycock,  33 
Allen  Street ;  A.  M.  Curtiss,  780  West  Ferry  Street ; 
Truman  J.  Martin,  279  North  Street. 

Surgeons. — Roswell  Park,  510  Delaware  Avenue  ; 
John  Parmenter,  519  Franklin  Street ;  Herman  Mynter; 
566  Delaware  Avenue  ;  W.  C.  Phelps,  148  Allen  Street; 
W.  W.  Potter,  284  Franklin  Street ;  Eugene  A.  Smith, 
1018  Main  Street. 

Nervous  Diseases. — James  W.  Putnam,  525  Dela- 
ware Avenue  ;  W.  C.  Krauss,  371  Delaware  Avenue. 

Children's  Diseases.— Dr.  W.  H.  H.  Sherman,  666 
Main  Street ;  Irving  M.  Snow,  476  Franklin  Street. 

Skin  Diseases. — Ernest  Wende,  471  Delaware 
Avenue  ;  Grover  W.  Wende,  471  Delaware  Avenue. 

Women's  Diseases. — M.  D.  Mann,  37  Allen  Street ; 
P.  W.  Van  Peyma,  445  William  Street ;  M.  A.  Crockett, 
452  Franklin  Street ;  G.  R.  Stearns,  201  Linwood 
Avenue  ;  Jessie  Shepard,  21  Irving  Place. 

Eyes  and  Ears. — Lucien  Howe,  183  Delaware 
Avenue;  H.  Y.  Grant,  399  Delaware  Avenue  :  Elmer  E. 
Starr,  523  Delaware  Avenue  ;  F.  W.  Hinkel,  412  Frank- 
335 


THE  NIAGARA  BOOK. 

I'm  Street;  A.  A.  Hubbell,  212  Franklin  Street;  F. 
Park  Lewis,  454  Franklin  Street. 

Nose  and  Throat.— F.  W.  Abbott,  523  Franklin 
Street ;  W.  S.  Renner,  361  Pearl  Street ;  Max  Keiser, 
388  Franklin  Street;  F.  Park  Lewis,  454  Franklin 
Street. 

Dentists.— W.  C.  Barrett,  208  Franklin  Street ;  M.  B. 
Straight,  80  W.  Huron  Street ;  F.  E.  Howard,  331 
Franklin  Street;  C.  E.  Wettlaufer,  157  North  Pearl 

Street. 

DRIVES. 

The  stereotyped  drive  in  Buffalo,  is  "around  the 
Front  and  to  the  Park,"  a  drive  of  a  couple  of  hours. 
Now  that  the  Park  Lake  is  included,  for  the  summer, 
in  the  Exposition  Grounds,  this  portion  of  the  drive  will 
be  deprived  of  much  of  its  beauty,  yet  the  Park  Meadow 
is  very  attractive  and  restful.  Delaware  Avenue  is  one 
of  the  famous  residence  streets  of  the  country.  Lin- 
wood  Avenue  is  also  an  attractive  street,  and  North 
Street,  Summer  Street,  Ferry  Street,  etc.,  all  have  beau- 
tiful residences  and  lawns. 

A  drive  to  Humboldt  Park  will  show  the  more  thickly 
settled  portion  of  the  city,  largely  German.  The  Wad- 
ing Pond  is  worth  seeing,  on  afternoons  or  school 
holidays. 

Those  who  wish  longer  drives,  and  who  have  the 
courage  to  pierce  the  belt  of  railroads  which  surround 
the  city,  and  the  monotonous  territory  of  the  immediate 
suburbs,  may  try  the  river  road  to  Tonawanda  (distant 
about  ten  miles)  ;  may  take  the  ferry  to  Fort  Erie  at 
the  foot  of  Ferry  Street  and  drive  to  Niagara  Falls  along 
the  Canadian  shore  of  the  Niagara  River,  or  such  por- 
336 


A  FEW  PAGES  ABOUT  BUFFALO. 

tion  of  this  twenty-mile  distance  as  they  may  elect  ; 
or  may  drive  through  Cazenovia  or  South  Park,  and 
to  Athol  Springs  (distant  about  eleven  miles),  and  on 
along  the  lake  shore  as  much  farther  as  they  may 
desire.  All  the  most  beautiful  portion  of  the  drive  is 
after  passing  Athol  Springs. 

BICYCLE  TRIPS. 

There  are  many  beautiful  bicycle  trips  about  Buffalo 
for  those  who  take  rides  of  thirty  to  forty  miles,  or  by 
taking  a  train  one  way  the  distance  can  often  be  halved. 
Recourse  should  be  had  to  the  bicycle  stores  and  book 
stores  for  books  descriptive  of  different  trips  and  routes. 
The  favorite  century  run  is  from  Erie  to  Buffalo,  along 
the  shore  of  Lake  Erie,  with  excellent  roads  all  the  way, 
and  of  course  this  may  be  taken  from  any  intermediate 
point.  By  taking  the  Lake  Shore  or  the  Pennsylvania 
train  to  Silver  Creek,  one  may  have  a  ride  of  forty-five 
miles  back  to  Buffalo,  usually  with  the  wind,  the  greater 
part  being  along  the  shore  of  Lake  Erie.  A  delightful 
ride  of  ten  miles  may  be  had  by  taking  the  same  trains 
to  Lake  View,  riding  back  along  the  lake  to  Athol 
Springs,  and  taking  a  return  train  there  on  either  road. 
A  beautiful  trip  is  to  take  the  Erie  Railroad  train  to 
Hamburgh,  ride  seven  or  eight  miles  along  the  precipi- 
tous banks  of  Eighteen-mile  Creek  to  North  Evans,  nine 
miles  along  the  shore  of  Lake  Erie  to  Athol  Springs, 
and  then  take  the  train  or  ride  back  the  eleven  miles  to 
Buffalo. 

The  trip  to  Tonawanda  (ten  miles  distant)  is  a  very 
favorite  one,  there  being  asphalt  or  brick  pavement  all 
the  way.  The  same  trip  along  the  tow-path  of  the  Erie 
22  337 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

canal  is  very  much  more  beautiful,  though  not  so  good 
riding.  The  ride  to  Niagara  Falls  along  the  Canadian 
bank  of  the  Niagara  River  (take  boat  to  Canada  at  foot 
of  Ferry  Street)  is  magnificent,  but  the  road  is  only  fair, 
and  sometimes  hardly  that.  The  trip  from  Niagara 
Falls  on  down  the  river  to  Lake  Ontario  is  very  beauti- 
ful, and  is  best  on  the  American  side.  An  interesting, 
though  uneven,  trip  is  to  ride  from  Port  Colborne  on 
Lake  Erie  to  Port  Dalhousie  on  Lake  Ontario,  twenty-five 
miles,  along  the  Welland  Canal.  Customs  entries  may 
be  required  in  passing  into  Canada  save  at  Niagara 
Falls,  where  there  is  usually  no  hindrance  or  trouble. 
Bicyclers  at  Niagara  Falls  should  not  fail  to  ride  to  and 
abound  the  DufTerin  Islands. 

No  bicycle  rider  should  fail,  while  in  Buffalo,  to  ride 
up  Delaware  Avenue  from  the  Terrace  to  Ferry  Street, 
and  to  ride  down  North  Street  to  the  Front.  The  streets 
are  much  more  beautiful  seen  in  this  way  than  in  driv- 
ing behind  horses. 

Bicycle  riders  in  Buffalo  are  obliged  to  carry  bells, 
but  are  not  obliged  to  carry  lamps. 

TRIPS  BY  BOAT. 

Those  who  desire  a  trip  on  Lake  Erie  will  find  vari- 
ous excursions  advertised  in  the  daily  papers,  the  boats 
usually  leaving  from  the  docks  at  the  foot  of  Main  Street. 
For  an  excursion  on  the  lake,  the  trip  to  Port  Colborne 
is  as  good  as  any,  and  Port  Colborne  itself  is  interesting 
as  one  terminus  of  the  Welland  Canal,  from  Lake  Erie 
to  Lake  Ontario.  A  shorter  ride  is  to  Crystal  Beach,  a 
miniature  Coney  Island,  on  the  Canadian  shore  of  Lake 
Erie.  An  all-day's  trip  may  be  had  by  taking  a  boat 
338 


A  FEW  PAGES  ABOUT  BUFFALO. 

for  Erie.  None  of  these  boats  are  of  very  high  grade, 
but  all  are  entirely  seaworthy. 

The  trips  down  the  Niagara  River  are  also  interest- 
ing. The  trip  by  boat  down  the  river  to  Niagara  Falls 
is  decidedly  worth  taking. 

The  trip  up  the  Great  Lakes  from  Buffalo  is  an  inter- 
esting and  delightful  one.  The  best  boats  to  take  are  the 
"  Northwest "  and  "  North  Land,"  which  are  both  beau- 
tiful vessels,  magnificently  finished  and  furnished,  and 
with  an  excellent  cuisine.  The  boats  of  the  Erie  & 
Western  Transportation  Company  (Lake  Anchor  Line) 
are  good,  though  not  new,  and  with  a  much  simpler 

table. 

BOATING. 

There  is  very  little  boating  in  Buffalo.  The  Buffalo 
Yacht  Club,  at  the  foot  of  Porter  Avenue,  "  The  Front," 
has  a  three-story  building,  with  dock  and  pier.  It  has 
a  membership  of  something  over  200,  with  annual  dues 
of  $15.00. 

Boats  may  be  chartered  at  the  foot  of  Ferry  Street, 
reached  by  the  electric  cars  or  the  Belt  Line  trains. 

STREET  CARS. 

There  is  a  complete  system  of  "transfers"  in  Buf- 
falo, and  visitors  changing  from  one  street  car  line  to 
another  may  obtain  free  transfer  tickets  from  the  con- 
ductor. 

THE   PAN-AMERICAN    EXPOSITION. 

The  name  Pan-American,  of  course,  means  all 
American,  and  the  Exposition  is  therefore  one  of  all 
America ;  or,  as  it  is  sometimes  put,  of  the  three 

339 


PLAN    OF   THE    PAN-AMERICAN    EXPOSITION. 


A  FEW  PAGES  ABOUT  BUFFALO. 

Americas — North,  Central,  and  South.  The  Exposition 
is  intended  to  illustrate  and  to  celebrate  the  achieve- 
ments of  the  Western  Hemisphere  during  the  nineteenth 
century,  and  no  exhibits  have  been  admitted  except  from 
the  Western  Hemisphere  and  the  outlying  dependencies 
of  the  United  States  in  the  Sandwich  Islands,  Samoa, 
the  Philippines,  and  Guam.  This  restriction  is  confined 
to  the  Exposition  buildings;  the  amusements  and  exhibits 
on  the  Midway  come  from  all  quarters  of  the  globe. 

The  Pan-American  Exposition  is  a  monument  to  the 
public  spirit,  the  liberality,  and  the  good  taste  of  the 
citizens  of  Buffalo.  The  idea  was  first  formally  pre- 
sented to  the  public  at  a  dinner  held  at  the  Hotel 
Iroquois,  January  21,  1899,  and  the  response  was  cor- 
dial and  immediate.  $427,000  was  subscribed  at  the 
dinner,  the  newspapers  all  took  up  the  movement 
with  enthusiasm,  and  within  six  days,  and  almost 
before  any  organized  canvassing  could  be  got  under  way, 
over  a  million  dollars  ($1,114,000)  of  stock  had  been 
subscribed  for  by  over  ten  thousand  different  people, 
in  amounts  ranging  from  $10  to  $25,000  ;  and  at  this 
writing  over  eighty-eight  per  cent  of  the  amount  so  sub- 
scribed has  been  collected,  and  seven  per  cent,  more  is 
considered  collectable.  The  total  stock  subscription 
reached  $1,731,520,  from  nearly  twelve  thousand  sub- 
scribers. In  March,  1899,  tne  State  of  New  York  gave 
to  the  Exposition  its  special  sanction,  and  voted  an  ap- 
propriation of  $300,000  ;  and  in  the  same  month  it  was 
indorsed  by  the  United  States  Congress,  and  an  appro- 
priation of  $500,000  voted.  The  invitations  to  partici- 
pate sent  to  the  other  countries  of  the  hemisphere  have 
been  from  the  National  Government,  through  the  De- 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

partment  of  State.  Mr.  J.  J.  Albright,  a  public-spirited 
citizen  of  Buffalo,  contributed  $400,000  for  a  permanent 
marble  art  gallery,  to  stand  upon  the  grounds  of  the 
Exposition,  and  the  Buffalo  Historical  Society  contrib- 
uted $45,000,  under  an  arrangement  by  which  the  New 
York  State  Building  at  the  Exposition  was  to  be  per- 
manent, and  to  become  the  home  of  the  Historical 
Society  at  the  close  of  the  Exposition.  A  bond  issue 
of  $2,500,000  was  authorized,  and  promptly  taken  up  by 
banks  and  capitalists.  The  total  cost  of  preparing  the 
Exposition,  including  the  Midway — which  surpasses  in 
quality  and  scope  anything  of  the  kind  yet  seen  in  this 
country — exceeds  ten  million  dollars. 

The  Exposition  has  been  most  fortunate  in  its  choice 
of  a  director-general — the  Hon.  William  I.  Buchanan. 
Mr.  Buchanan  has  had  ample  previous  experience  in 
expositions,  beginning  with  the  World's  Fair,  at 
Chicago,  and  has  since  been  the  Minister  of  the  United 
States  to  the  Argentine  Republic,  resigning  this  posi- 
tion to  assume  the  direction  of  the  Pan-American  Ex- 
position. It  is  probable  that  no  other  citizen  of  the 
United  States  has  so  wide  an  official  acquaintance  in 
South  America  or  is  more  highly  respected.  He  has 
great  executive  ability,  an  enormous  capacity  for  detail, 
and  is  an  untiring  worker.  He  is  a  man  of  broad  cul- 
ture and  of  quick  and  keen  judgment. 

The  Board  of  Directors  of  the  Exposition  consists  of 
twenty-five  men,  representative  of  the  best  elements  of 
the  city.  It  was  this  body  which  had  the  difficult  task 
of  mapping  out  the  scheme  of  the  Exposition,  selecting 
the  site,  the  architects,  etc.  The  architects  were  not 
chosen  by  any  competitive  process,  but  were  selected 
342 


A  FEW  PAGES   ABOUT  BUFFALO. 

by  the  Board  of  Directors,  and  are  as  follows  :  Carrere 
&  Hastings,  New  York  ;  Howard,  Cauldwell  &  Morgan, 
New  York  ;  Babb,  Cook  &  Willard,  New  York  ;  Pea- 
body  &  Stearns,  Boston  ;  Shepley,  Rutan  &  Coolidge, 
Boston  ;  Green  &  Wicks,  Buffalo  ;  George  Gary, 
Buffalo  ;  Esenwein  &  Johnson,  Buffalo.  The  Director 
of  Works  is  Newcomb  Carlton,  of  Buffalo  ;  Director  of 
Color,  C.  Y.  Turner,  of  New  York  ;  Director  of  Sculp- 
ture, Karl  Bitter,  of  New  York  ;  the  Landscape  Archi- 
tect is  Rudolf  Ulrich,  and  the  Chief  of  the  Electrical 
Department,  Henry  Rustin,  with  Luther  Stieringer  as 
Consulting  Expert. 

The  visitor  must  not  expect  buildings  of  the  height 
or  size  of  those  at  Chicago.  The  whole  style  of  archi- 
tecture and  the  whole  scheme  of  the  Exposition  are 
an  utter  change  from  the  Chicago  type.  To  compare 
this  Exposition  with  the  one  at  Chicago  is  like  trying 
to  compare  Cervantes  and  Aristotle.  The  buildings 
are  low,  with  red-tiled  roofs  ;  are  brilliant  with  color, 
are  rich  with  ornament,  with  domes  and  towers  and 
turrets,  with  balconies  and  loggias,  and,  above  all, 
with  pergolas,  or  arbors,  covered  with  thickly  growing 
vines.  These  vine-covered  arbors  are  so  numerous  as 
to  form  a  distinctive  feature  of  the  Exposition,  which 
is  rich  in  all  phases  of  landscape  work. 

The  grounds  of  the  Exposition  are  not  as  large  as  at 
Chicago.  They  are,  however,  a  mile  long  and  half  a 
mile  wide,  covering  350  acres,  which  is  quite  enough 
territory  for  people  to  cover.  They  include  the  beauti- 
ful Park  Lake  of  the  City  of  Buffalo,  which  D.  H.  Burn- 
ham,  of  Chicago,  has  called  the  most  beautiful  artificial 
or  park  lake  of  which  he  knows. 

343 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

Some  of  the  chief  'points  on  which  this  Exposition 
prides  itself,  and  which  are  therefore  especially  worthy 
of  mention,  are  as  follows.  It  is  claimed  that  in  the 
points  mentioned  this  Exposition  surpasses  any  that 
has  been  held  : 

Electrical  Effects. — The  electrical  features  are  said  to 
exceed  in  variety,  in  novelty,  and  in  quantity,  those 
of  all  other  expositions.  The  unlimited  forces  of 
Niagara  Falls  supply  the  motive  power.  No  arc 
lights  are  used,  except  inside  the  buildings  ;  but  the 
small  incandescent  lights,  which  it  was  at  first 
promised  should  exceed  200,000,  it  is  now  stated, 
are  over  500,000  in  number.  The  Electrical  Tower 
is  the  crowning  feature  of  the  Exposition. 

Sculpture. — More  groups  of  sculpture,  and  more  of 
original  sculpture  (all  by  artists  of  this  hemisphere) 
than  at  any  previous  exposition. 

Fountains  and  Canals. — The  electrical  fountain  in  the 
North  Bay,  the  Fall,  seventy  feet  high,  in  front  of 
the  Electric  Tower ;  the  Fountain  of  Abundance, 
the  Fountains  of  Man,  of  Prometheus,  of  Lycur- 
gus,  the  Fountains  of  Nature,  of  Ceres,  of  Kronas, 
the  Courts  of  Lilies  and  of  Cypresses,  the  cascades 
at  either  end  of  the  Triumphal  Bridge  ;  the  Park 
Lake,  the  Mirror  Lakes,  the  Canal  (a  mile  long,  and 
bordered  in  its  entire  length  by  a  walk  shaded  by 
a  double  row  of  poplars)  which  winds  among  the 
buildings — all  these  offer  enchanting  water  effects. 

Flowers  and  Vines. — The  landscape  work  is  rather  of 
the  Italian  order,  with  sunken  gardens,  terraces, 
flowers,  vines,  shrubs,  and  carefully  arranged 
344 


A  FEW  PAGES  ABOUT  BUFFALO. 

groups  of  trees.  Hundreds  of  thousands  of  spring 
bulbs — five  tons  of  crocuses,  tulips,  hyacinths,  etc. 
— have  been  set  out,  and  roses  and  other  flowers 
will  follow  in  their  season  in  almost  equal  profusion. 

Color  Effects. — The  work  of  coloring,  or  rather  of 
illuminating  in  color,  for  this  better  describes  the 
method  followed,  such  a  mass  of  buildings,  with 
such  intricacy  of  ornament  and  of  detail,  is  a  stu- 
pendous one.  At  this  writing  the  work  is  not  so 
complete  that  it  can  be  fairly  judged,  and  it  can 
only  be  said  that  it  is  being  done  very  boldly,  and 
with  great  capability  and  taste.  Such  lavish  use 
of  color  is  something  new  in  architecture,  and  is 
an  original  and  striking  feature  of  this  Exposition, 
which  has  already  given  to  it  the  name  of  the  Rain- 
bow City. 

The  Grand  Courts, — The  view  points,  or  "Courts  of 
Honor "  of  this  Exposition,  are  well  planned  and 
surprisingly  extensive.  It  is  claimed  that  the  Es- 
planade will  hold  250,000  people,  and  opening  out 
of  this  is  the  Court  of  Fountains,  and  beyond  that 
the  Plaza. 

The  Stadium. — A  noble  building,  the  arena  for  sports 
and  athletic  contests,  with  seating  capacity  for 
12,000  persons.  A  delightful  innovation. 

The  Midway. — This  Exposition  has  given  the  "  Mid- 
way "  an  important  position,  close  to  the  main 
buildings,  though  without  allowing  any  portion  to 
interfere  with  the  architectural  effects  of  the  Expo- 
sition proper.  The  high  grade  of  almost  all  of  the 
Midway  attractions  is  something  surprising,  and 
they  form  an  instructive  as  well  as  an  amusing 
345 


THE  NIAGARA   BOOK. 

feature.     The  broad  avenue  winding  through  the 
Midway  is  nearly  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  length. 

It  will  be  seen  from  this  review  that  the  Pan-Ameri- 
can Exposition  is  really  noteworthy  in  the  originality  of 
many  of  its  features.  The  Art  Gallery  offers  still  another 
excellent  feature  in  that  all  the  work  exhibited,  which  is 
of  course  wholly  from  American,  or  Pan-American, 
artists,  must  be  original,  no  copies  being  admitted. 
For  the  first  time  a  separate  building  is  devoted  to  the 
Graphic  Arts  and  never  before  have  Ethnology  and 
Music  been  given  such  commanding  and  conspicuously 
central  structures. 

The  different  exhibit  buildings  are  so  small  com- 
paratively that  the  exhibits  have  had  to  be  much  re- 
stricted, only  a  small  portion  of  those  offered  being 
accepted.  The  choice  seems  to  have  been  made,  how- 
ever, with  great  care  and  with  great  impartiality,  with 
especial  attention  everywhere  to  exhibits  which  tell 
their  story  in  a  striking  and  graphic  manner. 

It  is  neither  possible  nor  desirable  to  furnish  here 
any  detailed  description  of,  or  guide  to,  the  Exposition. 
We  have  told  something  of  its  history,  its  purpose,  and 
its  execution.  We  consider  it  noteworthy  among  ex- 
positions for  its  originality  and  excellence,  and  it 
reflects  great  credit  upon  the  capacity  and  culture  of 
those  who  have  created  it,  and  upon  the  city  which  has 
given  it  birth. 


346 


INDEX. 


ABBOTT,   FRANCIS,  the   "Her- 
mit," 61 

Adam's  Diary,  215 
Allen,  Sadie,  barrel  trips  of,  68 
American  Fall,  15,  32.  etc. 
Animals  at  Niagara,  173-176 
Anti-Masonic    Agitation    (1826), 

"3 

"  Ararat,"  112 

As  It  Rushes  by,  270 

Avery  on  the  Log,  76 

BATH  ISLAND,  31 
Balleni  and  the  tight-rope,  74 
Barrels  used  to  go  through  rap- 
ids, 66,  67 
Bicycles,  26,  43,  50 

May  be  rented  by  the  day  at 

Niagara  Falls 
Bicycle,  Water-,  86 
Biddle  stairs,  81 
Birds  at  Niagara,  174-176 

Robin,  174 

Oriole,  174 

Blue-bird,  174 

Gold-finch,  174 

Wilson's  Thrush,  175 

Wood-thrush,  175 

Cat-bird,  175 

Crows,  175 

Gulls,  175 

Cedar-birds,  175 

Bald-headed  Eagle,  175 

Indigo-bird,  176 

Scarlet  Tanager,  176 

King-fisher,  176 
Black  Rock  ( 1812),  108 

Burned  (1813),  109 
Blondin  and  the  tight-rope,  72 

Mr.  Howells  describes,  255 
Boundary    Line   between  U.   S. 

and  Canada,  no 
"  Bowser  "  and  his  boat,  71 


British  Campaign  of  1759,  102 
Brock,  General  (1812),  107 
Brock's    Monument,   42,  49,   57, 

108 
Brides  and  Grooms  at  Niagara, 

275 
Buffalo,  317-339 

Architectural  features,  321 

Asphalt,  50 

Bicycle  trips,  319,  337 

Boat  trips,  337 

Boating,  338 

Burned  1813,  109 

Commerce,  318,  320 

Coal,  318,  320 

Churches,  321 

Cemetery,  326 

Crematory,  327 

Clubs,  328 

President  Cleveland,  330 

Delaware  Avenue,  336,  338 

Doctors,  334 

Drives,  334 

Erie  Canal,  320 

Fresh  Air  Mission,  329 

Fire  tugs,  330 

President  Fillmore,  330 

Grain  elevators,  320 

Harbor  and  river,  319 

Hotels,  332 

Libraries,  324 

Manuscripts  in  library,  324 

Market,  326 

Mr.  Howells  visits,  238 

Newspapers,  333 

One  day  in  Buffalo,  317 

Pan  -  American    Exposition 
339-346 

River  and  Harbor,  319 

Red  Jacket  monument,  327 

Statistics,  318 

Shopping  guide,  333 

Street-cars,  339 


347 


INDEX. 


Buffalo,  232 

Theatres,  332 
Views,  319,  332 
Wading-pond,  326,  336 

Burning  of  the  Caroline,  62,  115 

Burning  Spring,  27,  250 

Burnt  Ship  Bay,  103 

CABLES  to  transmit  power,  190 
Cain,  where  raised,  226 

unimproved,  234 
Calcareous  soil,  163 
Calverley  and  his  wire  cable,  76 
Campbell's  voyage    in    life-pre- 
server, 70 

Canal,  Hydraulic  Power,  180 
Caroline,  burning  of  the,  62,  115 
Cataract  Construction  Co.,  184 
Cave  of  the  Winds 

Description,  4 

Dimensions,  7 

Safety,  10 

Cost,  6,  57 

Discovery  of,  62 

Wedding  near  the,  86 

Doring's  Band  in,  89 

Geology  of,  143 
Cayuga  Creek,  100 
Cessions  and  treaties,  105 
Champlain,  91 
Charlevoix  (1721),  95 
"Chestnut,"  the  forbidden  fruit, 
225 

The  original,  225 
Chippewa,  Battle  of  (1814),  109 
Clinton  Age,  145 
Coleridge,  24 

Commercial  History  of  N.  F.,  116 
Coronelli's  Map  (1688),  94 
Crandall,    Bryant    B.,  supposed 

suicide  of,  88 
Cruciferae,  Spring-flowering,  170 

DEATH  on  the  Ice-mountain,  79 
Declaration  of  Independence,  106 
De  Nonville,  Marquis  (1687),  101 
Detroit,  trip  of  the,  80 
Devil's  Hole,  48 
Devil's  Hole  Massacre,  104 
Dixon  and  the  wire  cable,  75 
Disappearance  of  Wm.  Morgan, 
"3 


Doring's   Band  in   Cave  of  the 

Winds,  89 

Dramatic  Incidents,  59 
Dufferin  Islands,  25 
Dynamos,  190 

ECHOTA,  The  town  of,  205 
Eden,  Garden  of,  identical  with 

Niagara,  215 
Electric  Generators,  190 
England  acquires  Niagara  (1763), 

I05 

Erie  Canal  completed  (1825),  112 
Erosion.  149,  161 
Eve,  216 
Excavation  of    the   Gorge,    150, 

160,  163 

FAMOUS     visitors    at     Niagara 
Falls,  278 

Father  Hennepin,  278 
La  Salle,  278 
Tonti,  281 
Hontan,  281 
Tom  Moore,  281 
Mrs.  Jameson,  285 
Margaret  Fuller,  288 
Sir  Joseph  Hooker,  291 
Harriet  Martineau,  291 
Charles  Dickens,  292 
Nathaniel  Hawthorne,  295 
Charles  Kingsley,  301 
Dean  Stanley,  301 
Professor  Tyndall,  301 
N.  P.  Willis,  303 
Mrs.  Trollope,  303 
Charles  Dudley  Warner,  304 
Professor    Richard   Proctor, 

304 

Anthony  Trollope,  305 

Bayard  Taylor,  308 

Mrs.  Sigourney,  311 

Lord  Morpeth,  312 
Fauna  of  Niagara  Falls,  158 

Quadrupeds,  174 

Birds,  174,  175,  176 
Farini,  on  the  tight-rope,  73 

on  stilts,  89 

Fenian  War  (1866),  116 
Ferns,  172,  173 

Ostrich  fern,  172 

Sensitive  fern,  173 


348 


INDEX. 


Ferns,  Royal  fern,  173 

Interrupted  fern,  173 

Cinnamon  fern,  173 

Bladder  fern,  173 

Shield  fern,  173 

Christmas  fern,  173 

Beech  fern,  173 

Walking  fern,  173 

Spleen-wort  fern,  173 

Cliff-brake  fern,  173 

Common-brake  fern,  173 

Maiden-hair  fern,  173 

Polypody  fern,  173 
Ferryboat  service,  old,  84 
First  railroad  in  America,  102 
Flora    and    Fauna    of    Niagara 

Falls,  158 
Flora,  vast  abundance  of,  165 

Trees,  165,  166,  167,  168 

Flowers,  169,  170,  171,  172 

Ferns,  172,  173 
Flack's  death,  69 
Flowers,  169,  170,  171,  172 

Liver-worts,   squirrel    cups, 
169 

Meadow  Rue,  169 

Wild  Columbine,  169 

May  Apple,  169 

Blood-root,  170 

Squirrel-corn,  170 

Dutchman's  breeches,  170 

Crinkle  root,  170 

Spring  cress,  170 

Rock  cress,  170 

Violets  (four),  170 

Spring-beauty,  170 

Crane's  bill,  170 

Virginian  saxifrage,  170 

Mitre-worts  (two),  170 

Spreading  phlox,  171 

Greek  valerian,  171 

Dog-tooth,  171 

Adder's  tongue,  171 

Bell-wort,  171 

Indian  turnip,  171 

Trilliums  (two),  171 

St.  John's  wort,  171 

Grass  of  Parnassus,  171 

Painted-cup,  171 

Lilies,  171 

Orchids,  171 

Hare-bell,  172 


Flowers,  golden-rods,  172 
Sun-flowers,  172 
Star-flowers,  172 
Downey  thistle,  172 
Shorn  gentian,  172 
Bluets  or  innocence,  172 
Liatris  cylindracea,  172 
Apocynum      androsaemifoli- 

um,  172 
Milkweed,  172 
Fire-lily,  172 
Lady's  slipper,  172 
Morning  glory,  172 
Wild  roses,  172 

Fort  du  Portage,   or  Little  Ni- 
agara, 102 

Fort   Erie,  captured  by  Ameri- 
cans (1814),  109 
Fort  George,   capture  of,    1^13, 

108 
Fort  Niagara,  43,   100,  101,  102, 

106 

Fort  Schlosser  (1813),  109 
France  cedes   Canada  to   Eng- 
land, 105 

French  occupation   of  Niagara, 
99 

GEOLOGY  of  Niagara  Falls,  123 
Generators,  electric,  190 
Glacial  period,  136 
Goat  Island,  31 

Why  so  named,  83 

Origin,  162 
Gorge,  Niagara,  38 

Early  crossings  of,  84 

A  true  canon,  132 

Excavation  of,  150,  160,  163 
Gorge  Road,  38,  58 
Graham  and  his  barrel,  66 
Grand  Island,  50,  103,  112 
Great  Lakes,  The 

Geology  of,  136,  138,  139,  140 
"Griffon,"      first    boat    on    the 
Lakes,  101 

HAZLETT  and  his  barrel,  67,  68 
Hennepin,  Father 

Descriptions  of  Niagara  by, 

30,  93,  94,  278 
"  Hermit  of  Niagara,"  61 


349 


INDEX. 


"  Hero  of  the  whirlpool  rapids," 
66 

Herbs,  flower  producing,  169 

Historic  Niagara,  90 

Holm's,  Campanius,  "  New  Swe- 
den" (17021,  94 

Horseback,   crossing    ice-bridge 
on,  86 

Horse-power,  now  utilized,  202 
to  be  available,  211 

Horseshoe  Falls,  16,  21,  32 

Howells,  William  Dean 

First  visits  to  Niagara,  239 
Last  visits  to  Niagara,  263 
Describes  Blondin,  255 

Hydraulic  Power  Canal,  180 

ICE-BRIDGE,  45 

Sudden  movement  of,  85 
Crossing,  on  horseback,  86 
Crossing,  in  automobile,  87 
Mr.  Howells  describes,  266 

Ice-palace.  85 

Illumination  by  search-light,  83 

Incidents,  Dramatic,  59 
Famous,  112 

Incident,  a  sad,  77 

Indians,  knowledge  of  Niagara, 

9i 

At  Niagara,  104 

Indian  Lore,  119 

Ingersoll.  Col.  Robt  G  ,  at  Niag- 
ara, 271 

Inspiration  Point,  20 

Isle  de  Marine,  103 

JENKINS  and  his  velocipede,  74 
Johnson,  Sir  Wm.,  British  Gen- 
eral, 102 

Joncaire  burns  Ft.   Little  Niag- 
ara, 102 

Kangaroorum  Adamieitsis^  229 
Kendall  swims  the  rapids,  67 

L'ALLBMENT,      Jesuit      Father 

(1641),  92 
La  Honton's,  "  Voyages  "  (1703). 

94 

La  Salle,  30,  100,  278 
Land  Titles  to  Niagara,  in 
Le  Clercq,  Father  (1691),  94 


Leslie,    "The  American    Blon- 
din," 88 
Lewiston,  41,  48,  100 

Named  for  Governor  Lewis, 

107 

Burned  (1813).  109 
Original  site  of  Falls,  161 
Lewiston  Bridge,  destroyed,  81 
Limestone  formation,  145,  146 
Little  Falls,  early  outlet  of  Great 

Lakes,  139,  146 
Local  History  of  Niagara,  120 
Luna  Island,  31,  32 
Lunar  Rainbow,  33 
Lundy's  Lane,  battle  of  (1814), 
109 

McNAB,  Sir  Allen  (1837),  115 
Maid  of  the  Mist,  13 
Story  of  Original,  64 
"  Dummy,"  78 
Indian  Legend  of,  119 
Manchester  (burned  1813),  109 
Medina  formations,  145,  148 
Mills  at  Niagara,  180 
Michigan,  The  Pirate,  60 
Modern  History  of  Niagara,  97 
Mollusca,  162 

"Morgan's  Dungeon"  (1826),  113 
Morgan,  William,  disappearance 

of,  113 
Music  of  Niagara,  23 

NAVY  ISLAND,  103 

Newark,  Capture  of,  1813,  108 

Niagara 

Why  so  named,  53,  215 

Historic,  90 

Early  mentions  of,  9* 

Indians  at,  91 

Modern  History  of,  97 

Ownership  of,  98 

French  occupation  of,  09 

Why    Brides    and    Grooms 
visit,  275 

The  great  Lesson  of,  275 

Poetry  of,  310 

''  Niagara."  the  name,  95,  96 
Niagara,  first  and  last,  236 
Niagara  Falls 

Unconquered  by  man,  77 

Geology  of,  123 


350 


INDEX. 


Niagara  Falls 

Eventual  fate  of,  156 

t  lora  and  Fauna  of,  158 

Power  of,  178 

Mr.  Howell's  first  visits,  239 

Mr.  Howell's  last  visits,  263 

Famous  visitors  at,  278 

Niagara  Falls  Hydraulic  Power 
&  Mfg.  Co.,  1 80 

Niagara  Falls  Power  Co.,  184 

Niagara  limestone,  145 

Niagara  shale,  145 

Niagara  River 

When  it  ran  dry,  53 
Is  in  fact  a  strait,  131 
A  new-made  stream,  133 
First  existence  of,  140 
Earlier  courses  of,  141 

Nissen  and  his  boat,  71 

Noah,  Maj.  M.  M.,  Jewish  lead- 
er (1824),  112 


"ONGIARA,"93 

k<  Onguiaarha,"  92 
Ontario,  Lake,  42,  43,  49 
Ownership  of  Niagara,  98 

PAN-AMERICAN  Exposition,  339- 
346 

Architects,  343 

Area,  343 

Art  gallery,  346 

Color  effects,  543,  345 

Director-General,  342 

Electrical  effects,  344 

Ethnology,  346 

Finances.  341 

Flowers  and  vines,  344 

Fountains,  344 

Graphic  Arts,  346 

Inception,  341 

Meaning  of  name,  339 

Midway,  345 

Music,  346 

Officials,  343 

Purpose,  341 

Statistics,  341 

Sculpture,  344  ' 

Stadium,  345 

Parliament    of   Upper    Canada 
(1792),  108 


Patch,  Sam,  and  his  high  jump, 

60 

Patriot  War  (1837),  114 
Peere  and  the  wire  cable,  75 
Percy's  trip  through  the  rapids, 

69 

Penstocks,  191 
Petrified  Leaves,  49 
Poetry  of  Niagara,  310 
Portage  Road,  101 
Porter,  Augustus,  180 
Porter,  General  Peter  B.  (1814), 

no 

Potts  and  his  barrel,  67 
Power  of  Niagara  Falls,  178,  179, 

202,  203 

Power-house,  188 
Prideaux,  General  (1759),  102 
Prince  of  Wales  (1860),  107 
Programmes  for  one  day,  52 
Prospect  Park,  29,  14 

QUADRUPEDS,  174 
Queenston,  41,  49 

Original  site  of  the  Falls,  150 
Queenston  Heights,  107 
Queen  Victoria  Park,  18,  78 

RAGUENEAU,      Jesuit      Father 

(1648),  92 
Rainbows,  19 

Lunar,  33 

Mr.  Howells  describes,  243 
Rapids,  Upper,  28 

Whirlpool,  39 
Recession  of  Falls,  55,  149,  154 

Surveys  to  determine,  151 
Rescues,  79,  82,  87 

of  two  dogs,  80 
Revolutionary  War,  106 
Robinson,  Joel,  64,  120 
Rock  of  Ages.  15 
Romantic  Marriages,  86 

SANSON'S  Map.  92 
Schlosser,  Captain  Joseph,  103 
Schlosser  landing,  115 
Searchlight  illumination,  83 
Shale  formations,  145 
Smyth,  General  Alexander,  1812, 
108 


351 


INDEX. 


Soil,  fertility  of  the,  163 
Soule's  attempt  to  swim  rapids, 

7i 

Spelterina  walks  tight-rope,  74 
Spring,  The,  36 
State  Reservation,  78,  118 
Statistics,  53 
Stilts,  Farini  on,  89 
Stone  Chimney,  relic  of  British 

fort,  103 

St.  Lawrence,  Vale  of  the,  135 
Suicide  (?)  of  Crandall,  88 
Sunday,  a  day  to  rest  from,  218 
Sundays,  should  be  more,  227 
Superfluous,  a  good  word,  218 
Surreys  of  the  Falls,  151 
Suspension  Bridge,  destroyed,  81 

TABLE  Rock,  20 

Fall  of,  63 

Mr.  Howells  tells  about.  248 
Terrapin  Tower,  81,  251 
Thayer,  E.   M.,  Music  of  Niag- 
ara, 23 

Three  Sister  Islands,  34 
"Three  Mountains,"  100,  101 
"Thunder  of  the  Waters,"  96 
Tight-rope  exploits 

Blondin,  72 

Signer  Farini,  73  f 

Signer  Balleni,  74 

Maria  Spelterina,  74 

Steve  Peere,  75 

Samuel  John  Dixon,  75 

Clifford  M.  Calverley,  76 

J.  E.  De  Leon,  87 

Harry  Leslie,  88 
Tonawanda,  223 
Toronto,  43 

Tramway    up     "Three     Moun- 
tains," 101 
Treaty  of  1763,  105 

of  Paris,  106 

of  Ghent,  no 
Trees,  165,  166,  167,  168 

Cucumber,  165 

Tulip,  165 

Maples  (four),  165 

Sumach  (five),  166 

Plum,  166 

Cherry  (two),  166 

Crab-apple,  166 


Trees;  Thorn  (three),  166 

Cornel  (six),  166 

Viburnums  (six),  166 

Sassafras,  167 

Native  Laurel,  167 

Ash  (two),  167 

Linden  or  Bass-wood,  167 

Butternut,  167 

Hickory  (four),  167 

Beech, 167 

Chestnut,  167 

Oak  (nine),  167 

Elm  (two),  168 

Birch  (three),  168 

Alder,  168 

Willows  (six),  168 

Poplars  (four),  168 

White  Cedar,  168 

Red  Cedar,  168 

Juniper,  168 

American    Yew    or  'Ground 
Hemlock,  168 

White  Pine,  168 

Hemlock-Spruce,  168 
Tunnel,  power,  185 

UNITED  STATES  and    Canada, 

no 

Utilization  of  Niagara's  power, 
178 

Evershed's  plans  for,  182 
Organization  of  Companies 
for,  184 

VAN  RENSSELAER,  Gen.  (1812), 

107 

Visitors,     Famous,    at    Niagara 
Falls,  278 

See  "  Famous  Visitors  at  N. 
F."  in  Index 

WALKS,  48 

War  of  1812,  106 

Waterfalls 

How  formed,  124 

of  Yosemite  Valley,  126 

of  Lauterbrunnen,  126 

of  the  Ohio  at  Louisville,  127 

of  Island  of  Anticosta,  127 

of  Trenton,  128 

of  Niagara,  128,  etc. 


352 


INDEX. 


We,  a  new  word,  215 
Webb  and  his  fatal  swim,  65 
What  to  See,  3 
When  Niagara  ran  dry,  63 
Whirlpool,  40,  49 

Mr.  Howells's  visits,  253 
Whirlpool  Rapids,  The,  39 

Swimming  through,  65,  67, 


Whirlpool    rapids,    through,    in 
Barrels,  66,  67,  68 
Through,  in  boats,  68,  69,  70, 

7i 

Willow  Island,  36,  25, 50 
Winter,  44 

YOUNGSTOWN,  43 
Burned  (1813),  109 


353 


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